person, instead of the third. I have not felt it incumbent on me to confine myself to the mere contents of the document left in America; but have, in various parts, made large additions from my own private observations. The biographical accounts of various important persons, many descriptions of the superstitions, manners, customs, and traditions of the people, the nature of their government, and the remarks on their language, are taken from my own memoranda, which a knowledge of their language enabled me to make, during my daily intercourse with the natives for the space of two years. I have occasionally illustrated my remarks by allusions to the Society Islands, where I spent six years in missionary occupations. I have invariably represented the natives as we found them, exhibiting freely the lights and shadows of their character, without exaggeration; and can assure my readers, that it has been my constant aim to offer nothing, the accuracy of which may not be relied upon; and, in many descriptions, have rather diminished than enlarged the objects described.* In corroboration of which, I insert, from a recent American periodical publication, the following extract of a letter, written by Mr. L. Chamberlain, relative to the great volcano of Kirauea which I had estimated at five and a half miles in circumference, and 700 or 800 feet deep. "Mr. Goodrich and myself visited the volcano again, and, with a line, measured the upper edge of the crater, and found it to be seven miles and a half in circumference. We then descended, and measured one side of the ledge, and satisfied ourselves, that, at the depth of 500 or 600 feet, the circumference is at least five miles and a half. We did not get the exact depth of it, but judge it not less than one thousand feet. We had good opportunities for forming a judgment." The drawings were sketched on the spot. The outline of the map is from Vancouver's survey, unaltered, except slightly in two places, viz. Kairua and Waiakea. The geographical divisions, &c. were inserted during the tour; and specimens brought to this country, of the lava, &c. described in the narrative, have been inspected by individuals of eminence in the study of mineralogy. It is hoped, that in various points of view, the following narrative will be found interesting. It will introduce to the more accurate knowledge of our country a portion of the human race, with which they have been hitherto very imperfectly acquainted; and tend to remove some prejudices which may have existed respecting the supposed invincible ferocity of the Sandwich Islanders. It will prove that they are rapidly emerging from their former condition, and preparing to maintain a higher rank in the scale of nations. Above all, it will furnish a decisive and triumphant illustration of the direct tendency of Christian principles, and Christian institutions, to promote the true amelioration of mankind in all the relations of social life. Without depreciating the value of those efforts, which mere political philanthropists may employ for the interests of humanity; such facts as those presented to the world, in the recent history of the Society and Sandwich Islands, prove, that CHRISTIANITY ALONE supplies the most powerful motives, and the most effective machinery, for originating and accomplishing the processes of civilization. While the spiritual welfare and the eternal destinies of men are the primary objects of its solicitude, it provides for all their subordinate interests on true and permanent principles; and thus lays a solid foundation for personal happiness, domestic comfort, and national prosperity. These are the legitimate triumphs of the gospel; these are moral demonstrations of its efficiency and its origin; these are proofs, in perfect harmony with other illustrations of the fact, that "the foolishness of God is wiser than men, and the weakness of God is stronger than men;" and that "godliness hath the promise of the life that now is, and of the life which is to come." The candid reader will pass over all the defects in the execution of the work, when assured, that every pretension, except to a simple narrative of facts, is disclaimed; that it was prepared amidst a variety of engagements, and under the pressure of severe domestic affliction; and that the last ten years of my life have been so much devoted to the study of the uncultivated languages of the Pacific, that when most of it was written, they were more familiar than my native tongue. London, March 23, 1826. CONTENTS. Correctness of Captain Cook's Narrative-Remarks on the impressions produced by its perusal-Actual State of the People-Character of the Islands-Climate, Population, Natural History-Impor- tance of their local Situation-Establishment of a Christian Mission among them-Friendship of the King towards Fo- reigners Present from the British Government-Visit of the Deputation to the Sandwich Islands-Motives of removing thither--Arrival of Missionaries-Objects of the projected Tour Voyage of part of the Missionaries to Kairua- Welcome from the Governor of Hawaii—A Breakfast Scene Description of an extensive Cavern-Curious natural Phenomenon, occasioned by the Sea-Situation and Appearance of Kairua — Excursion to the Plantations-Christian Zeal of a Chief-Ruins of a Heiau Departure from Oahu-Occurrence off Ranai - Appearance of Lahaina-Keopuolani, Queen of the Islands-Native Dance -Missionary Labours - Buhenehene, a popular native Game -Traditions respecting some of the principal Idols of Maui and the adjacent Islands-Voyage to Hawaii-Visit to Proposed Route-An ancient Fortress-Aid from the Governor of Hawaii-Another Native Dance-Height of Mouna Huararai— Manner of preparing Bark for Native Cloth - Cultivation of the Cloth Plant-Method of manufacturing and painting various kinds of Cloth-Conversation with the Governor Departure fram Kairua-Description of our Guide-Several Heiaus— Population of the Western Coast-Tracts of rugged Lava-Scene of the Battle which took place in consequence of the Abolition of Idolatry in 1819― Description of the Battle-Tomb of a celebrated Priest-Account of Captain Cook's Death, and the Visit to the Spot where Captain Cook was killed-Hawaiian Notions of a Future State-Account of the Battle at Mokuohai-Death of Kuuikeouli-Former Prevalence of War in the Sandwich Islands-Warriors-Warlike Games-Methods of consulting the gods before determining on War-Human Sacrifices-Councils of War-Levying Armies - Encampments-Fortifications — Naval Fights Disposition of Forces Weapons - War Dresses- Methods of Attack-War gods carried to Battle-Single Combats Burying-place of the ancient Hawaiian Kings - Account of the Puhonua, or City of Refuge, at Honaunau Population of this Part of the Coast--Advantages of Honaunau for a Mis- sionary Station · Lodging at Keokea-Ancient Cataract of Lava, and irregular vaulted Avenue-Journey along the Shore Singular Pillars of Lava-Scarcity of Fresh Water-Division of Appearance of the South-west Part of the Island- Keavaiti-Missionary Labours at Patini-Beautiful Spouting of Water through the Lava-Appearance of the Southern Extremity of Hawaii-Inland Route to Kaura-Description of the Moun- tain Taro-A Congregation of Natives at Paapohatu-Valley of Waiohinu-Account of the Pahe, a native Game-Conver- sation respecting the Abolition of Idolatry, with the People at |