CHAP. IV.

Proposed Route-An ancient Fortress-Aid from the Governor of Hawaii-Another Native Dance-Height of Mouna Huararai— Manner of preparing Bark for Native Cloth-Cultivation of the Cloth Plant-Method of manufacturing and painting various kinds of Cloth-Conversation with the Governor-Departure from Kairua— Description of our Guide-Several Heiaus-Population of the Western Coast-Tracts of rugged Lava-Scene of the Battle which took place, in consequence of the Abolition of Idolatry, in 1819— Description of the Battle-Tomb of a celebrated Priest-Account of Captain Cook's Death, and the Honours rendered to his Remains -Encouraging Missionary Labours.

July 15th. OUR whole number being now together at the place where we had previously agreed to commence our tour, we no longer delayed to decide on the route we should take, and the manner in which we should endeavour to accomplish the objects of our visit. Anxious to gain a thorough acquaintance with the circumstances of the people, and their disposition relative to missionary operations, we agreed to travel on foot from Kairua, through the villages on the southern shore, to pass round the south point, and continue along the south-east shore, till we should arrive at the path leading to the great volcano, situated at the foot of Mouna Roa, about 25 miles distant from the sea, which we thought it improper to pass unnoticed. We proposed,

after visiting the volcano, either to descend to the shore and travel along the coast through the division of Puna, or across the interior to the division of Hiro, as circumstances might then render most expedient. From Waiakea in Hiro, we agreed to proceed along the eastern shore, tl an opportunity should offer for part of our number to cross over the mountains of Kohala, while the rest should travel along the shore, round the north point of the island, and meet their companions at Towaihae, whence they could return direct to Oahu, if a means of conveyance should present itself, or to Kairua, and there wait for a vessel. The plan of our tour being thus arranged, we were anxious to receive the aid of the governor in the execution of it. Mr. Thurston and myself were therefore chosen to wait upon him in the afternoon, to make him acquainted with our wishes, and solicit his assistance for their accomplishment.

I afterwards accompanied Mr. Thurston to the well, where we found the natives boring the hard rocks of lava which they intended to blast. We encouraged them in their laborious work, and then visited the ruins of an old military fortification, formerly belonging to the makaainana, (common people, as distinguished from the aristocracy, or reigning chiefs.) In those periods of their history, during which the island of Hawaii was divided into a number of independent governments under different chiefs, which were frequent prior to the reign of Taraiopu, who was king at the time of its discovery by Captain Cook; this had been a place of considerable importance. All that at present remains is part of the wall, about eighteen or twenty feet high, and fourteen feet thick at the bottom, built of lava, and

Ruins of an ancient Fortification, near Kairua.

London Published by H Fisher Son & 2Jackson March 31. 1826

apparently entire. In the upper part of the wall are apertures resembling embrasures; but they could not have been designed for cannon, that being an engine of war with which the natives have but recently become acquainted. The part of the wall now standing, is near the mouth of Raniakea, the spacious cavern already mentioned, which formed a valuable appendage to the fort. In this cavern, children and aged persons were placed for security during an assault or sally from the fort, and sometimes the wives of the warriors also, when they did not accompany their husbands to the battle. The fortification was probably extensive, as traces of the ancient walls are discoverable in several places; but what were its original dimensions, the natives who were with us could not tell. They asserted, however, that the cavern, if not the fort also, was formerly surrounded by a strong palisade.

In the afternoon we waited on the governor, according to appointment; made him acquainted with our arrangements, and solicited the accommodation of a boat, or canoe, to carry our baggage, and a man acquainted with the island, to act as guide and to procure provisions, offering him, at the same time, any remuneration he might require for such assistance. After inquiring what baggage we intended to take, and how long we expected to be absent from Kairua, he generously offered to send a canoe as far as it could go with safety, and also to furnish a guide for the whole tour without any recompense whatever. He recommended that we should take a few articles for barter, as, occasionally, we might perhaps be obliged to purchase our food, or hire men to carry our baggage. After thanking him for his kindness, we returned.

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