Makoa objects to visiting the Volcano-Account of the Defeat and Assassination of Keoua-Superstitions connected with the Pebbly Beach at Ninole.--Hospitality of the Natives-Methods of dressing the Taro-Distant Indications of the Volcano at Kirauea -Visit to the Burning Chasm at Ponahohoa-Journey from Departure for the Volcano-Volcanic Sand-Superstitions of the Natives respecting the Ohelo--Description of the great Volcano- Pools of Water-Banks of Sulphur-Appearance of the Volcano at Midnight-Traditions and Superstitions of the Natives con- Journey to Kearakomo-Description of the Dracana, or Ti Plant— Reported Eruption of Lava in Kapapala-Sabbath in Keara- komo-Affectionate Reception of Mauae-Fragment of a Song on his Birth Conversation with the People - Marks of an Earthquake-Description of Kaimu-Manner of Launching and Conversation with the Natives-Appearance of the Country in the Vicinity of Pualaa - Extinguished Volcano in the Valley of Kapoho-Description of the Horua, a native Game-Tradi- tionary Story of a Contest between Pélé and Kahavari-Inci- dents on the Journey to Hiro-Description of Ora-Public Worship at Waiakea-Conversation with a Priestess of Pélé, the goddess of the Volcanoes-Opinion of the Natives respecting the Former Customs on Wairuku River-Affecting Instance of Infan- ticide-Extent of Infanticide; Motives to its Practice; humane Efforts of the Chiefs for preventing it-Account of the native Methods of curing Diseases Tradition of the Origin of Medicine - Waiakea Bay Conversation with Natives of the Marquesian Islands Farewell Visit to Maaro - Temple of Pélé-Division of Hiro-Missionary Labours-Journey across the Hills to Towaihae-Description of Waipio Valley- Funeral Ceremonies among the Natives - Another Place of Refuge Notions of a Future State-Voyage to Waimanu— Swimming in the Surf a popular Amusement. Kukui Tree-Interest manifested at this Place in the Instruc- tions of the Missionaries—Fall of immense Masses of Rocks— Halaua-Drinking Ava-Ideas of the Natives, who have em- Traditions connected with the Northern Part of Kohala-Methods of procuring Sandal Wood-Manufacture of Salt at Towaihae- Visit to Waimea-Ascent of Mouna-Kea-Arrival of Messrs. Bishop and Goodrich at Kairua-Erection of a Place of Wor- ship Observance of the Sabbath-Maritime Character of the People Government of the Islands - Hereditary Rank MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH HAWAII. CHAP. I. Correctness of Captain Cook's Narrative—Remarks on the impressions produced by its perusal—Actual state of the People-Character of the Islands-Climate, Population, Natural History-Importance of their local Situation—Establishment of a Christian Mission among them—Friendship of the King towards Foreigners-Present from the British Government—Visit of the Deputation to the Sandwich Islands-Motives for removing thither-Arrival of Missionaries-Objects of the projected Tour of Hawaii-Remarks on the Orthography of native Words. IT is nearly half a century since Captain Cook, in search of a northern passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, discovered a groupe of islands, which, in honour of his patron the Earl of Sandwich, first lord of the Admiralty, he called the SANDWICH ISLANDS. The importance he attached to this discovery may be gathered from his own words; for, when speaking of the circumstances under which the vessels anchored for the first time in Kearake'kua bay, the appearance of the natives, &c. he remarks, "We could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene; and, perhaps, there were few on board who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though last, seemed, in many respects, to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Europeans throughout the extent of the Pacific ocean.' These are the last words recorded in the journal of that enterprising and intelligent navigator: a melancholy event shortly afterwards occurred on the shores of this very bay, which arrested his career of discovery, and terminated his existence. On the return of the survivors, a detailed account of the islands and their inhabitants was given to the world, and excited no small degree of interest, not only in England, but throughout the continent of Europe. The descriptions which Captain Cook's Voyages contained, of the almost primitive simplicity, natural vivacity, and fascinating manners, of a people, who had existed for ages, isolated, and unknown to the rest of the world, were so entirely new, and the accounts, given of the mildness and salubrity of the climate, the spontaneous abundance of delicious fruits, and the varied and delightful appearance of the natural scenery in the Sandwich and other islands of the Pacific, were so enchanting, that many individuals were led to imagine they were a sort of elysium, where the highlyfavoured inhabitants, free from the toil and care, the want and disappointment, which mar the happiness of civilized communities, dwelt in what they called a state of nature, and spent their lives in unrestrained gratification and enjoyment. These descriptions were, I am convinced, faithful transcripts of the first impressions made on the minds of Captain Cook and his companions, and in every respect correct, so far as their partial observation extended. A residence of eight years in the Society and Sandwich islands, has afforded me an opportunity of becoming familiar with many of the scenes and usages described in their voyages, and I have often been struck with the fidelity with which they are uniformly portrayed. In the inferences they draw, and the reasons they assign, they are sometimes mistaken; but in the description of what they saw and heard, there is throughout a degree of accuracy, seldom if ever exceeded in accounts equally minute and extended. Still their acquaintance with the islands and the people was superficial, and the state of society which they witnessed, was different from what generally existed. An event so important and surprising as their arrival, -the ships and the foreigners, the colour, dress, arms, language, manners, &c. of the latter, whom they regarded at first as superior beings, so powerfully affected the minds of the natives, that the ordinary avocations of life were for a time suspended. The news of such an event rapidly spread through the islands, and multitudes flocked from every quarter to see the return of Orono, or the motus, (islands,) as they called their ships. The whole island was laid under requisition, to supply their wants, or contribute to their satisfaction. Hence the immense quantity of provisions presented by Taraiopu; the dances, &c. with which they were entertained. The effect also produced on the minds of those early visitors, by what they saw during their transient stay among the islands, was heightened by all the attractions of novelty, and all the complacency which such discoveries naturally inspire. -Far different are the impressions produced on the |