CHAP. XIII.

Temple of Pélé-Division of Hiro-Missionary Labours-Journey across the Hills to Towaihae-Description of Waipio Valley— Funeral Ceremonies among the Natives-Another Place of Refuge -Notions of a Future State-Voyage to Waimanu-Swimming in the Surf a popular Amusement—Value of the Kukui Tree—Interest manifested at this Place in the Instructions of the Missionaries— Fall of immense Masses of Rocks-Halaua-Drinking Ava—Ideas of the Natives, who have embraced Christianity, respecting WarCharacter of Tamehameha—Account of the Tabu.

SEVERAL members of the family we had lodged with, united with us in our morning worship on the 15th, after which we breakfasted together.

While thus engaged, Makoa arrived with our baggage, and about eight A. M. we were ready to proceed. Unwilling that our hostess should suffer by her kindness, we presented her with as much blue cotton cloth as would amply pay for the supper she had generously furnished last evening, and then set out on our journey.

The wide extended prospect which our morning walk afforded, of the ocean, and the shores of Hamakua on our right, was agreeably diversified by the occasional appearance of the snow-capt peaks of Mouna-Kea, seen through the openings in the trees on our left. The body of the mountain was hid by the wood, and the different peaks only appeared like so many distinct hills at a great distance. The highest peak bore s. w. by s. from Humuula.

The high land over which we passed was generally woody, though the trees were not large. The places that were free from wood, were covered with long grass and luxuriant ferns. The houses mostly stood single, and were scattered over the face of the country. A rich field of potatoes, or taro, or large plantations of sugar cane and bananas, occasionally bordered our path. But though the soil was excellent, it was only partially cultivated. The population also appeared less than what we had seen inhabiting some of the most desolate parts of the island.

About 10 A. M. we reached the pleasant and verdant valley of Kaura, which separates the Divisions of Hiro and Hamakua.

The geographical divisions of Hawaii, and the other islands of the group, are sometimes artificial, and a stone image, a line of stones somewhat distant from each other, a path, or a stone wall, serves to separate the different districts, or larger divisions, from each other. They are, however, more frequently natural, as in the present instance, where a watercourse, winding through the centre of the valley, marked the boundary of these two divisions. The boundary of the smaller districts, and even the different farms, as well as the large divisions, are definitely marked, well understood, and permanent. Each division, district, village, and farm, and many of the sites of houses, have a distinct name, which is often significant of some object or quality distinguishing the place.

On descending to the bottom of the valley, we reached a heiau dedicated to Pélé, with several rude stone idols, wrapped up in white and yellow cloth, standing in the midst of it. A number of wreaths of flowers,

pieces of sugar cane, and other presents, some of which were not yet faded, lay strewed around, and we were told that every passing traveller left a trifling offering before them.* Once in a year, we were also informed, the inhabitants of Hamakua brought large gifts of hogs, dogs, and fruit, when the priests, and kahu of Pélé, assembled to perform certain rites, and partake of the feast. This annual festival, we were told, was designed to propitiate the volcanic goddess, and secure their country from earthquakes, or inundations of lava. Locks of human hair were among the offerings made to Pélé. They were frequently presented by those who passed by the crater of Kirauea.

We ventured to deviate from the custom of travellers in general; yet, though we presented no offerings, we did not proceed to pull down the heiau, and irritate the people by destroying their idols, but entered into conversation with them on the folly of worshipping such senseless things, and pointed out the more excellent way of propitiating the favour of Jehovah the true God, with sacrifices of thanksgiving and praise, placing all their hopes in his mercy, and depending for security on his providence. They took what we said in good part, and answered, that though the stones could not save them, the being whom they represented, or in honour of whom they were erected, was very powerful, and capable of devouring their land, and destroying the people. This we denied ; and told them that volcanoes, and all their powers, were under the control of that

Stone images are occasionally fixed by the road side, usually near a precipice, or other place, where travelling is difficult or dangerous, and it is customary for every individual to present a wreath of flowers, small piece of tapa, or green bough of a tree, as he passes by.

God, whom we wished them to choose for their God and Saviour. When a drawing had been taken of this beautiful valley, where kukui trees, plantains, bananas, and ti plants were growing spontaneously with unusual richness of foliage and flower, we took leave of the people, and continuing our journey, entered Hamakua.

Hiro, which we had now left, though not so extensive and populous as Kona, is the most fertile and interesting division on the island. The coast from Waiakea to this place is bold and steep, and intersected by numerous valleys or ravines, apparently formed by the streams from the mountains, which flow through them into the sea. The rocks along the coast are volcanic, generally a brown vesicular lava. In the sides and bottoms of some of the ravines, they were occasionally of very hard compact lava, or a kind of basalt. This part of the island, from the district of Waiakea to the northern point, appears to have remained many years undisturbed by volcanic eruptions. The habitations of the natives generally appear in clusters at the opening of the valleys, or scattered over the face of the high land. The soil is fertile, and herbage abundant. The lofty Mouna-Kea, rising about the centre of this division, forms a conspicuous object in every view that can be taken of it. The base of the mountain on this side is covered with woods, which occasionally extend within five or six miles of the shore. While the division of Kona, on the leeward side of the island, is often several months without a shower, rain is frequent in this and the adjoining division of Hamakua, which form the centre of the windward coast, and is doubtless the source of their abundant fertility. The climate is warm. Our thermometer was usually 71° at sun-rise; 74° at noon; and 72°

or 73° at sun-set. Notwithstanding these natural advantages, the inhabitants, excepting at Waiakea, did not appear better supplied with the necessaries of life than those of Kona, or the more barren parts of Hawaii. They had better houses, plenty of vegetables, some dogs, and a few hogs, but hardly any fish, a principal article of food with the natives in general.

About mid-day we came to a village called Kearakaha, where we collected the people, and preached to them. They listened attentively, and conversed very freely afterwards on what had been said.

Leaving Kearakaha, we continued our walk to Manienie, where we dined, and rested two or three hours. During our stay we addressed the people as usual.

Shortly after four in the afternoon we left Manienie, and travelled over a well-cultivated tract of country, till we reached Taumoarii, where we put up for the night, as we were considerably fatigued with our day's journey, having crossed nearly twenty ravines, some of which were from 300 to 400 feet deep. The people collected in front of the head-man's house, for religious worship; and the service was concluded with singing and prayer, just as the sun was setting. We spent the evening in conversation with the people of the house. Many of them exclaimed, "Makemake au ia Jesu Kraist. Aroha nui o Jesu!" (I desire Jesus Christ; great is Jesus' love.)

Makoa, as usual, excited much interest among the natives by the accounts he gave of our journey, &c. This evening he turned theologian, and while we were at supper, we heard him telling a party around him in another part of the house, that heaven was a place