CHAPTER XII. Beyrout-Its rapid rise-Refinement of the inhabitants— Grand balls Custom-house obstructions menade-Battista's Hotel-Night prowlers. The pro BEYROUT may be said to be the capital of all Syria. It is already so in a commercial point of view, and, if it continue to thrive as it has done, will be so in a few years as regards population. There is no other town that can boast of containing so many veritable European inhabitants, and nowhere else are similar public edifices and steam factories to be met with. Beyrout is also the seat of diplomacy; for here the Consul-Generals of the different European nations reside, and at Beyrout are discussed and quelled those oft-arising disputes between the Druses and the Maronites inhabiting the Lebanon. It has risen into importance within the last fifteen years, and has continued steadily and rapidly increasing in wealth, population, and dimensions. In the recollection of many still residing in Syria, Beyrout was inhabited by one solitary Frank; and the arrival of any vessel from Europe was an event hailed with surprise and delight. It now contains nearly one hundred European families, and the arrival of a steamer is an ordinary occurrence. At every successive visit that I paid Beyrout during my long sojourn of eight years in Syria, and these visits were manifold, I found vast improvements had taken place during my absence. Stupendous new mansions, the property of opulent merchants, were daily being built; beautiful country houses, summer residences of the wealthy; hotels and billiard-rooms and cafés, elegantly fitted up; and last, though not least, splendid steam factories, for reeling silk on European machinery, were springing up in every direction. Everywhere utility was blended with magnificence. The new buildings added fresh beauties to the already picturesque town, and, while they afforded comfort and luxury to their owners, gave employment to hands which would otherwise have wanted work. The owners of the silk factories reaped a rich harvest, and hundreds of boys and girls earned in them a ready livelihood by working as reelers. Meanwhile, commerce augmented; the annual returns of shipping showed a vast increase in the amount of vessels; the number of lighters, too, increased in proportion, and ship-chandlers drove a thriving trade. As the inhabitants grew more wealthy, greater attention began to be paid to dress and fashion. The Europeans set the example, and Turks, Greeks, and Armenians followed it; not that these latter gave up their Oriental costume, but this, in lieu of being of some ordinary material, was now made of rich silks and satins. The Franks promenaded in the latest Parisian fashions, and the natives in the richest Oriental robes. Among the latter the march of improvement went still further. Their sons were placed at schools, and they themselves had private tutors, so that there are few who cannot converse freely in Italian, the Lingua Franca of the East. In fashionable accomplishments, as singing, dancing, music, &c., they have not as yet made much pro gress. It would not suit the gravity of an old Oriental merchant to be seen polking; and as for music, the greatest infliction to which a native can be exposed, in mixing with European society, is having to sit and listen to music, whether vocal or instrumental. I believe that their musical performances are equally cruel on Europeans. It is an imposition on good nature to be forced to endure an Arab concerto, or solos performed on violins by Cypriot Greeks. Amongst the Europeans inhabiting Beyrout there are some first-rate musicians and pianists. Evening quadrille parties, or musical reunions, are of frequent occurrence; and some of the grandees occasionally give a ball, with a sumptuous supper, to which all the élite of every religion and costume are invited. On these occasions the Pasha's band generally attends, and right well do they execute their duties. The uninitiated stranger, arriving from Aleppo, or Tripoli, or Latachia, is astounded to hear the latest polkas and waltzes admirably performed. Nor are the dancers one whit behind; the newest steps are executed, and a little foreigner, who is master of the ceremonies, is in such a state of extatic delight, that he actually forgets to twirl his moustachios, having both hands occupied in applauding rapturously. 1 The ball-room contains a motley assemblage, vastly amusing to those who do not dance. At the end of the room, perched on a divan of state, is the Pasha and some of the more distinguished Turks. These smoke and talk, and applaud alternately, looking upon the whole affair as a boy would at a puppet-show, and thinking that the ladies and their partners are capering about for their especial behoof and amusement. If there is anything that annoys them, it is the character of the music, which is not half sedate enough, nor sufficiently lugubrious or out of time to suit their taste. When the waltz or the quadrille, or whatever it may be, is over, and the partners promenade in couples round the room, these grey-bearded children criticise the ladies, and are heard to exclaim Mashalla! if any particular belle happen to be rather stout, which is the standard of beauty in Turkey. After smoking an incredible number of pipes, and seeing a great many dances, and consuming whole gallons of very strong punch, the old fellows toddle home in very merry mood, thanking their stars that it was not in their own |