CHAP. VIII.

AFTER every known recipe and surgical amusement had tortured, ineffectually, my emaciated frame, a return to native air was pronounced by the illegitimate sons of Messrs. Gulen & Esculapius, my last resource, and I left Montreal, not as the contemplating sage would the Ruins of Palmira, or a Grecian Temple, with regret ; nor had I the parting curiosity of Mrs Lot.-In a Sleigh we crossed the river St. Lawrence, which was a carriage without wheels, open sides, ornamented with a kind of curtain, drawn by four excellent horses and we reached the town of La Prairie, the distance of nine miles, in one hour and twenty minutes, through stupendous mountains of ice, and chasms of wintry desolation. This mode of travelling was novel, and rather unpleasant at this period; for flesh and bones had dissolved partnership,

and I found myself rather too transparent, to encounter the chance of limb dislocation; but wrapt in the skin of a buffalo, and a seal-skin cap, I preferred the pure air, although cold and piercing, to the stewing exalation of stoves within doors. On the following morning, after leaving St. John's, we crossed Lake Champlain, and our driver exclaimed, "There they are." "What?" said I "Why the British ships; and the scene of action pointed out where England's navy suffered shameful defeat; the captive fleet were sad trophies of the fight. My friend Jehu's remarks were true, but rather gallingly unpleasant: this was the third exhibition of the kind, I had seen the vanquished Flotilla of Lake Erie, and the crest-fallen Guerrier. Neither Nelson nor Cochrane was there---a perspective of Westminster Abby, or that monitor," England expects every man to do his duty."

We proceeded rapidly on by way of Swanton, Burlington, Vergennes, Cambridge, Salem, Lansingburgh, and Troy, to Albany. Burlington and Salem are pretty towns, formed of wood, elegantly painted, resembling bandboxes. Returning to our old quarters in Albany, a good fire and a welcome look from mine host and his clean good-tempered spouse, Mr. and Mrs. Jones, State-street, re-animated our frozen frames; and as a skilful M. D. was recommended, and pronounced infallible, prudence and hope prompted a halt for a few days.

This being the season of Legislation for the state of New York, our boarding-house was honored by the M. P. presence of about ten of these dignified Representatives; and I flattered myself in proud conceit I should have found Socrates, Cicero, Demosthenes, and a few more such luminaries, and concluded that taciturnity, I had so much condemned in others, was my only retreat, where I could listen and learn. The Hon. Speaker, Mr. Spencer, one of our guests, I found a pleasaut, well-informed gentleman, animated in conversation, shrewd in remark, generally correct, and candid in opinion; but I found not a second among his fellow labourers in the vineyard of public good. Nationalities will creep into chat, and when such conclude amicably, they serve to sweeten, enliven, and improve. The British and American navy became a topic, and a wise logician, in the shape of a farmer, (an M. P.) observed, after an immense length of fustian had been measured and bestowed on Perry, Decatur, Bainbridge, Macomb, Hull, M'Donagh, Jones, and Lawrence," the English, for years past, had been only accustomed to French and Spanish contests, until the late American war, which had proved the superior tactics and physical powers of the Americans."

"It is a tale told by an idiot, full of sound and fury."

Unwilling my friend Chopstick should carry his point

by boarding, I opposed him from the main-chains of truth, and luckily silenced by a broad side the cannonades of his volubility.--" If, Sir, you will refer your memory so far back as the painful recollection of the Shannon and Chesapeake, you will find that the only instance where personal and individual strength was brought into action; the result of that menorable day all the world knows ;--the brave Lawrence flattered much, and promised more-even the company of captive Broke, to dine with the Bostonians; but alas! the triumphal baked meats did but coldly furnish forth the funeral table! The fate of the English ships Macedonia, Guerrier, Java, Frolic, &c. was the chance of the contest as regarded wind, position, weight of metal, and number of men; and, Sir, you will recollect, an American frigate, rated at 36 guns, is equal in every appointment to an English 50-gun ship."--These law-makers are pleasantly situated during the sessions, which generally continues four months, enjoying a salary of seven dollars per day, for yea and nay, assent or dissent; but as there was no vacancy, I did not ask for a place. I thought this payment for Representation rather novel, and though quite agreeable to the Representatives, seems a burthen to the people, but public virtue is a hollow name; few, indeed, possess its patriot dignity and courage in any country.

The invitation of a gentleman of the American Bar,

not a Bar-rister, but a very respectable worthy publican induced me to accompany him in his Sleigh, drawn by two beautiful blood horses, to Boston, and we skimmed along famously over the blanched surface; indeed I admire this method of travelling.---Boston is a town more ancient in its appearance than any in America, and its inhabitants are a very civil people. On my return to Albany, we proceeded, wife, children, and baggage, to New York. My old acquaintance and English townsman, Mr. J. a celebrated glass manufacturer, strongly urged me to accompany him to Philadelphia, Baltimore, Charleston, and Washington, adding, no expence should be incurred to me, as "How d'ye do?" would occur so frequently on our way, that such an unpleasant companion to slender finances would not attend us.---Philadel phia is rather more than handsome, for it is an elegant city; streets much cleaner than New York, run parallel, and as its inhabitants are a far more moral people, knuvery seems less in demand.---Baltimore was in the days of Colonial Regime the focus of fashion, and it is now, as is supposed, the most wealthy. Democracy reigns here in all its glory; but their haven has become the rendezvous of pirates, according to the observations in Congress.---Charleston is the abode of planters, and dealers in cotton, rice, human sorrow, and tobacco; here the pestilence often reigns, and suddenly calls to an eternal account the tyrant, monopolizer, and frees from the scourge of a despotic ruler, many a burthened slave.