THE sun has risen in all that gorgeous splendour that alone is witnessed in the East; the mountaineer has been at his toil full long; the goats are cropping the scanty herbage on the mountain terraces; there is a calmness spread o'er all the scene that is before us, for "Morn on the mountain, like a summer bird, Lifts up her purple wing, and in the vales The gentle wind, a sweet and passionate wooer, Kisses the blushing leaf and stirs up life." The impatient horse, with expanded nostril, tosses his head, and restless champs his bit, eager to leave the crowded town. The baggage mules are laden now with tents and provisions, in spite of the kicking of the one, and dancing about of the other; the guide has filled all the pipes, procured plenty of small change for the road, attired himself in true Bedouin style, to protect his face and neck from the sun's rays, and now stands ready for the order to start. A crowd of small boys surround the party, anxious to get a few paras for some little attention as you mount your steed. At length the whole party have made all their arrangements, the guide is D mounted, and the mules and muleteers flowering shrubs, with rainbow tints, clothe its banks; and the odorous air of the gardens, bending with fruit, is diffused over the whole. The towering poplars and silver-leaved olive-trees wave their boughs overhead, and cool the air; the gorgeous butterflies, and swift-darting are threading their way through the crowds of men, women, and animals that obstruct the narrow streets of Beyrout. We have had our coffee; the pipes are in full force, and amid clouds of smoke and dust, barking of dogs, shouting, and the confused murmur of a multi-dragon-flies, restless ply their wings, as tude of men, women, and children, they flutter from flower to flower; from nearly every clime, and of nearly Nature's choir warbles around us, and every hue, we emerge from the town of delights us with its music. Each minute Beyrout. The first portion of the road changes the scene-too varied and highly is most delightful, as we advance along coloured for even fancy to paint. At narrow lanes of prickly pears bendiug | length a plashing sound salutes our ears over our heads, while the rich and varied -then a large black rock is seen, from foliage of the gardens on either side, and whence the river flows; but the dancing the rough, bright, and dusty road form and careering bubbles betoken that its curstrong contrasts. rent, though smooth, is by no means lazy. At length the narrow lanes are threaded, and the road presents a more open prospect, with the noble Lebanon forming the background of the landscape; while the placid Nahr-el-Leban, or River of Milk, crossed by its seven-arched bridge of Roman construction, and the khan at its extremity, assist to fill in the foreground; and some camels, with their attendants, resting under the thicklyleaved trees on our left, with some women washing clothes near the margin of the river, complete the view. The bridge is gained, and we pause at the old khan, to gaze at the waters of the Nahr-el-Leban, as they flow towards the sea with provoking calmness; for it is only when swollen by rains, and fed by the mountain streams, that it foams and rushes onward like a river of milk. On its banks, the reeds of which the pens of the Orientals are made grow in great luxuriance, and overhanging its margin, cause more reflections in its mirrored waves below, than the sentences which are written by the calami themselves. From here we pass through a succession of mulberry plantations, enclosed with the prickly-pear hedges, until we reach the easternmost point of the plain of Beyrout, when turning abruptly to the north, a ride of about half an hour brings ns to the Cat River, or Nahr-el-Psân, which issues from a rock about two miles from its mouth, the ride thereto being most delightful. A thousand plants and The spot was too lovely to leave without a remembrance, and therefore many sketches were taken, and notes withal, ere we withdrew from this sylvan retreat. Again we dash along the sandy shore, to the annoyance and astonishment of the sober Moslems, who nevertheless return our salams and salutations, and pausing, gaze on the wild Franks that ride through brier or water, and leap the walls or cactus-hedges, regardless of life or limb. The road is worse: we must ride with gentler pace, for we have reached the foot of the rocky promontory called El Rás Nahr-el-Kelb, or the head of the Dog River; and, as the ascent is unpleasant and uneasy, we must restrain our steeds, and patiently climb the rugged path and wind along the Via Antoniniana. Below us, on the southern side of the promontory, is a square basin, hewn in the solid rock, close to the sea, which is admitted for the purpose of making salt by evaporation. Formerly, there was not any passage along this part of the coast, and therefore the Emperor Aurelius constructed one, by cutting away the rock in some parts, and filling it up in others, so as to reduce it to a level. This we learn from an inscription cut on the side of the rock. The Nahr-el-Kelb, which is the Lycus of the Greeks, issues from a chasm be tween two steep mountains, about a day's ride from its mouth. Strabo asserted that it was formerly navigable, though the stream is rapid; but if so, it must be vastly changed since that good old gentleman's day, for now there is a bar of shingle at the mouth of the river, which prevents boats entering if laden, unless when swollen by the rains, in which case it is just barely possible to reach the bridge, which consists of three arches, and was built by Fakr-el-Din, a short distance from its mouth. The present name given to the river is said to be derived from an idol in the form of a dog, which was worshipped, and is said to have pronounced oracles at this place; but the oracular head was broken off, and carried to Venice, and the body thrown into the sea. The natives point to a mass of black rocks, near to the entrance of the river, as the remains of the body; and to a pedestal by the roadside, at the northern extremity of the promontory, as the spot where the statue formerly stood. I much doubt the accuracy of the dog tradition, because we know that the ancient Lycopolis, or Wolf City, was situated here; and a relief on the rock, over the river at the end of the bridge, portraying a wolf, though much defaced by the Moslems, confirms the supposition that time and tradition have converted the wolf into a dog. The rocks that overhang the road to the east are sculptured with mezzo-relievo, cuneiform inscriptions, and hieroglyphics, executed by order of some of the conquering monarchs, especially Sesostris, who, after conquering Ethiopia, Persia, &c., passed along this road, and left as a memorial the tablets that are cut on the rocks. One of the tablets, and the best preserved, probably owing to its more elevated position, contains the upright figure of a man, habited like the modern Persians, exhibiting the profile, which expresses intelligence, mildness, and benevolence. The left hand rests on the breast, and the right hand is raised, and appears to hold some oval object; but being nearly effaced, it is impossible to conjecture what it represented. The whole of the figure, which is carved in the natural rock in mezzo relievo, the size of life, and also the tablet, from the waist downwards, is covered with small arrow-headed, or cuneiform inscriptions. Satisfied with examining the rock sculptures, we descended the rugged pathway, and were soon upon the beach of the Nahr-el-Kelb, which is the boundary of the patriarchates of Jerusalem and Antioch. Above us the grey rocks reared their hoary heads, and studded with olivetrees. At our feet the river rolled with placid surface, a strong contrast to the boiling sea outside the bar, which dashed with savage fury against the black rocks, and covered them with its feathery surge. Opposite us a khan, embowered with luxuriant vines, and surrounded with odorous flowers aud herbs, enticed us to dwell for a while beneath its shade. An instant's reflection changed our purpose; the tents were erected; the horses and mules tethered; and the whole place was occupied by our party, who were all engaged in endeavouring to make themselves comfortable. The grave Moslems started to see the wild Franks racing about, sketching, cooling wine in the river, bathing, cooking, eating, singing, and dancing, "Till twillight's dewy tints deceived his eye, And fairy forests fringed the evening sky." But we cared little what they thought of us, and kept up our fun, until daylight bid us recline upon our bed of sand. The horses and mules are fed, the tents struck, our goods packed, and again we move on, and crossing the bridge, pass the Roman aqueduct with its sixteen arches, filled with creeping parasites, and above veiled over with blushing wreaths of mezereon, and many a bright-hued flower, amid the long and luxuriant grass that is nurtured by the crystal waters that gleam on its ruined walls. On we go, following the river's course for about two hours; and then we commence ascending the rugged sides of Lebanon. The grandeur of the towering rocks, the beetling brow of the grey mountains, the beauty of the secluded glens, the steepness of the declivities, the dashing, leaping, and boiling torrents, the murmuring rills and bubbling springs that wind along the verdant plats woven with vegetable gold, the waving boughs of the massive sycamores, the ilex, fig, palm, and plane-trees on the warm slopes, followed each other in quick succession. Here the waters had washed down a huge mass of rock, and diverted the channel of the stream; there a rock forms a wall, or, undermined by the mountain torrent, is converted into a cave. After turning, descending, and climbing, for about six hours, we arrived at one of the high points of Lebanon, from whence we enjoyed the wild beauties of the majestic scenery; for "Where'er we gaze, around, above, below, What rainbow tints, what magic charms are found! Rock, river, forest, mountain, all abound: And bluest skies that harmonize the whole; recklessly along among rocks, reeds, and shoals; and oftentimes the sound of the monotonous dard bookkèt, or Arab drum, divert the attention from the beauties of the scene, as "Away it sweeps, A wide and smiling prospect, gay with flowers, The day was waning fast as we drew near the end of our journey, and the rocky heights were still illumined with the last rays of the glorious orb; while the valley, with its peaceful huts and rich screen of foliage, lay in deep shadow below. The bulbul's song, and the jackal's howl, and cataract's fall, were nearly the only sounds that saluted our ears as we approached the Djessr-elKhadjer. Pursuing a rugged and winding path among the rocks and underwood for a short distance, we arrived at our destination, and, collecting the attendants, soon had the tents pitched, fires lighted, horses and mules tethered, and supper ready. The journey had sharpened our appetites; we fared well, and then, reclining under the cover of our tents, upon the "cold flinty rock," courted sleep. Descending by a zigzag pathway, the sides of which were studded by the kermes oak and the olive, we arrived in a picturesque valley, abounding in wheat, barley, and mulberry-trees, which afford a goodly subsistence to the industrious peasant. He cuts away about one-half of the old trees, which serves him for wood; the fruit is sold, and the leaves supply food for the silkworms. A man's wealth is estimated by the number of rotolas (a rotola is 176 drachms' of silk) he makes," In one impetuous torrent down the steep and the annual taxes are calculated in It thundering shoots, and shakes the country proportion to them; but the land-tax is estimated by the number of mule-loads of mulberry leaves. When the morning dawned, we arose refreshed, and walked to the Ain-el-Leban, or fountain of milk, from whence the river hurries forward with mad and irresistible vehemence, and— round: At first an azure sheet, it rushes broad; We now passed through an orange Dash'd in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft grove, "Where the lemon and piercing lime, A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower. With the deep orange glowing through the green, Now flashes o'er the scatter'd fragments, now Their lighter glories bend." The trees were ranged in avenues, literally bending under the weight of the golden fruit; the ground was dabbled o'er with their fruit and fragrant blossoms, and crystal streams trickled around us. Groups of peasants wending their way to their homes along the high and perilous road, or the mounted traveller dashing Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts; The rocks around, carpeted with velvetlike moss, and the boiling waters below, tinged with the first rays of the morning sun, added considerably to the beauty of the scene. Descending by a steep and circuitous path to view the cascade from below, I had an excellent opportunity of "IT'S RAINING!" IN LONDON.) How it is raining! It is coming down as thick as bell-ropes-bell-ropes that in a minute makes every one wringing wet! sketching the Djessr-el-Khadjer, or natu- (A WATER SKETCH TAKEN ON A WET DAY ral bridge, which is one of the principal curiosities in Syria. The span is 180 feet, the spring of the arch 140 feet, the depth of the key-stone 20 feet, the breadth of the bridge is 140 feet, and its height, from the water to the summit, 160 feet. It is a solid mass of rocks, and extends across the Nahr-el-Kelb as it leaves the Ain-el-Leban, where it arises. Our sketches finished, and the mules being ahead, we bade adieu to this romantic spot, and set out for Beyrout; and after journeying for six hours over hill and dale, entered a more subdued and softer kind of scenery. The streets are washed quite clean. The paving-stones stand up white and round, like a series of bald heads, and the pavements are wet and shiny as if they had been laid down with oilskin. Every cabstand is deserted. The place of one is only indicated by a long litter of straw, that draws a thick line of mud down the middle of the road. The unhappy chickens, that generally haunt the heels of the As evening set in, the mountain peaks horses, have been drenched through hours became crowned with the cloud of night, ago, and have doubtlesssly gone home to and as we attained the summit of the last warm themselves, and lay their "fresh high mountain, we saw the sea before us country eggs" in their native coal cellar. in placid beauty, dotted over with the The waterman, even, has had enough of white sails of the picturesque boats of water, and, if the truth were known, has Syria, which contrasted with the deep retired to his favourite Tap to mix a little blue waters, that beating on the golden brandy with it. The whole physiognomy beach, threw a hue of creamy foam along of the cabstand is altered. Not a laugh, the coast. At our feet lay the plain of not an oath is heard. There is nothing Beyrout, and here and there, on either that falls upon the ear but the heavy drip side as we descended, a gleam of light-drip-drip of the rain, and servant as we descended, a gleam of light from the various huts buried in the gloom of trees and threatening rocks, guided us on our way. The moon shone with silver serenity, and the "Chill mists were stealing O'er the expanse so bright before; The sunny rays no longer sparkled,The radiance of the waves was o'er," we rode into Beyrout. girls who run out to fetch a cab have only to throw their aprons over their heads and ran back again as quick as they came. But the whole street is equally deserted. The wet lamp-posts have not a soul to lean against them; there are no groups of heavy fellows dawdling with their hands in their pockets outside the beershops. The apple and fish stalls are there, it is true, but there are no fair mistresses in topcoats and short pipes enthroned be"OLD MAIDS."-I have no sympathy with that hind them. Perhaps the violence of the rude, unfeeling, and indelicate phrase, old maid, which is bandied about in the mouths of rude, rain has washed them down the gutter in unfeeling, and indelicate persons. It is true that which they generally sit. At all events a selfish nature, cut off from all duties and ties, they are gone, and their goods are left all and sinking back into the solitary life of a selfish alone, with pieces of old sacking thrown heart, becomes most unlovely and useless. But shall the few cloud the true nobleness of the over them by way of mackintosh and many? How many elder sisters, it may be un-protection. There is'nt a soul to be seen blessed with outward comeliness, have entered into a brother's or sister's family, and accepted-not a boy even, flattening his nose all its cares as the duty of their life, and joining against the pastry-cook's window! hands with the mother, given to each child, as it were, two souls of love, like two wings of God, to help it fly up withal from weakness and ignorance to manliness and strength! The rain is falling, pouring, in all directions, and from all possible points. It is falling from the weathercock on the |