hands, and followed him to the filthy Hôtel d'Europe. Here we learned that the diligence would not leave for Rome till some time after noon, and the intervenient hours were therefore improved by a pedestrian exploring excursion through streets and lanes the least inviting imaginable. I certainly saw the best part of the town, for I saw it all; but there was no place where I would consent to spend my days, for the whole area, and its entire contents, with the forty miles of campagna between it and the Eternal City.' And this is the ancient Centum Cella; this is the city of Trajan, and the favourite retreat of the Roman emperors. Pliny found it a right pleasant place;' but to-day it wears as sorry an aspect as any that the sun shines upon. There is nothing here but mud, and rags, and fleas, and swine, and beggars, and pickpockets, and poor heavy-laden donkeys, and modern dwellings resting on worthier ruins, and castles, and prisons, and churches, all in keeping.

Returning to the hotel, I found Mrs. Cross holding a tête-à-tête with a long black robe, surmounted by a broad three-cornered hat, and enclosing a very polite specimen of the Romish priesthood. He was a missionary to India, where he had spent the last fifteen years; had been in Italy three months on a visit, and had just come from Rome to re-embark for his distant field of labour. He had with him a native of Burmah, whom he said he had made a Christian. We found him very talkative and agreeable; and, to all appearances, an honest man. He told us that they had in India at least a thousand missionaries, fifteen bishops, a hundred colleges, and plenty of nuns*—something for the Protestant Churches to think of! He told us, also, that there are now in the Propaganda at Rome thirteen young Americans, preparing for the priesthoodsomething for American Christians to ponder! In recommending to us certain lodgings in Rome, he said: "They are good people: I was there myself: the padrone is a very good man: you can leave your purse on the table when you go out, and it will be there when you come back!' But when we inquired as to the expense, he replied: "You can get the rooms for twenty-five scudi a month, perhaps

*These statistics are inaccurate.-ED.

for twenty they will ask you forty, because you are forestieri: they will get all they can from forestieri: you must be careful: you must make good bargain: you must not let them cheat you.' So this is a priest's idea of a good man: he will not steal your purse, but he will cheat you he can. What is to be expected of a country where the religious teachers of the people have no higher standard of morality?

if

Soon after twelve the diligence was ready, and so were we. But O, Pio Nono! what a clamour for buono mano! Our commissionaire, and three or four facchini, were exorbitant, importunate, stentorious. It was not enough that we had paid two prices for landing, and three prices for breakfast, and a dollar for the visé of our passport; nor was it enough that half the population had followed us begging through the town, and the prisoners stretched out their hands through the grated windows for carita as we passed; but now there are not less than half a dozen distinct demands for unknown services, and innumerable hats thrust at us from every quarter, with imploring cries for qualcha cosa. Perplexed, bewildered, and almost desperate, I was just ready to throw all my change to the crowd, when I was startled by the question, in perfect English: Can I be of any service to you, sir?' Looking up, I saw at my elbow a handsome little man, in a gray suit, with a delicate ratan in his hand. I am the American Consul,' he added, and have come to see if I can render you any assistance: strangers are subject to great annoyance here; these people would cheat you out of your eyes.' He took the money out of my hand, and soon dismissed the several claimants, and drove away the lazzaroni with his stick. Then he explained to me the Roman currency; told me what I had to pay each postilion on the road; gave me his card, with the name of a good hotel in Rome assisted Mrs. Cross into the coach, and bade us adieu in the politest manner. By no means an unpleasant incident in such a den of thieves!

Travelling by diligence in Italy is not the most delightful thing imaginable. The carriages are awkward and uncomfortable, the progress intolerably slow, and the postilions insolent. In feeing these short-tailed officials, I adhered

scrupulously to the instructions of the Consul; but the short-tailed officials looked blank, then sour, then furious, and at last threw back the money indignantly. By such means these men often extort considerable sums from travellers, for most people would rather pay an extra paolo or two than have their necks broken; but in this instance the effort was a failure, and doubtlessly the disappointed wight in the sequel regretted his menace. When the nuisance will be abated, it is impossible to say, because I know not when the railway to Rome will be finished. It took a long time for the government to determine upon the expediency of building it, and it seems likely to require a longer for the execution of the work.

It was now growing dark, and I know nothing more of the campagna or the road, except that it was constantly up and down the hills, with innumerable curves and bridges, till about ten o'clock, as we were rattling down a descent close under a lofty wall, when all at once the dome of St. Peter's broke upon our sight, like a temple in the sky. In a few moments more we were within the wall, and making the curve of that majestic colonnade-which seemed a wilderness of pillars encircling the piazza in front of that most magnificent of churches. And now, at the fine Hôtel de Minerve, to which our polite little friend at Civita Vecchia recommended us with his compliments, let us rest till morning-our first night in the Eternal City.'

6

CHAPTER IX.

FIRST DAYS IN ROME.

Seeking Apartments-Settled, Unsettled, and Resettled-The Sabbath-Priestly Despotism-A Little Leaven-Street Spectacles -Blessings for Beasts-Beggars-Panorama-Lecture-The City of the Cæsars-The City of the Popes.

THE next morning I went forth in search of Mr. Johnson, an American artist, to whom I bore a letter of introduction. But how to find the needle in the haystack, that was the question. Perhaps some information may be obtained at the Piazza di Spagna. A guide offers his services, who knows Mr. Johnson very well, and will bring me straight to his studio. He leads the way: I follow. But at the first corner he stops to inquire for 'Mosoo Zhonse, sculptore Americano.' 'No, no,' cried I; Mr. Johnson, American painter!' The Italian knave evidently knew nothing of the man. I resolved, however, that he should fulfil his promise. After more than an hour's walk, with frequent inquiries for 'Mosoo Zhonse,' we find that gentleman in the Via Babuino. Having read the letter, he proposes to go with me at once in quest of appartamenti. His amiable little wife, who speaks Italian fluently, accompanies us in the character of interpretess. Four full hours we travel through all sorts of streets, down all sorts of lanes, up all sorts of stairs, into all sorts of houses, among all sorts of people, not because there are no rooms for rent, but because so few are properly furnished, and fewer still to be had at a reasonable price. The grand holy days are at hand, and the forestieri are flocking to Rome, and the most exorbitant demands are made for furnished apartments. After dinner, without our interpretess, Mr. Johnson and myself renew the quest. In the Via dei Condotti we are shown a very neat set of rooms, well furnished withal, and the rent only 'trenta scudi per mese.' The old woman seems anxious to close the bargain. A pair of bright eyes are watching us from a slightly opened door.

We prefer that the ladies shall see the place, and promise to call again. 'Una momento, Signori !' exclaims the old woman; and then she calls aloud, Angela !' and in bounds a beautiful girl of sixteen. A sweeter face I saw not in Italy. She was exceedingly well attired, and played some very pretty coquettish airs; half hiding behind her mother, and doing her utmost endeavours to blush. And this fair Signorina, we were informed, would wait upon our table, and make our beds, and be wholly at our command. We were evidently taken for two single gentlemen, and immediately corrected the error. But this unlucky piece of information ruined all our hopes. The Padrona's price was forty scudi, and the rooms could not be let to a man with a wife! We saw no more of the coy glances of the little maiden; and a cloud came over her pretty features, as she closed the door behind us.

The next day Mr. Bartholomew, an American sculptor, kindly joined our party, and we found rooms with which we were well pleased on the Via Babuino. There was nobody at home but a young girl, who told us that the rent of the apartments was twenty scudi. But could they not be obtained for less? "Oh yes, for sixteen." Now the padrona entered, chid the girl for putting the rent so low, but finally concluded the bargain with us for the same price. I immediately settled my bill at the hotel, removed our baggage hither, bought a load of wood, and we began life in Rome.

Sunday morning came, and your forestieri were safe. A boy from a neighbouring trattoria brought us a 'bifstecca,' (beef-steak,) a roll of bread, and a cup of caffé latta. This having enjoyed, with prayer and thanksgiving to our Heavenly Father, we accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Johnson to the Braschi Palace for worship. The large hall was much crowded, and it was pleasant to see so many Protestant sects represented in the assembly, all unmindful of the several peculiarities of creed and custom which divided them at home. Mr. Hall, a Congregational minister from New England, conducted the service; and Mr. Bartholomew, assisted by several American artists, led the singing. The Braschi Palace is the residence of our Minister, Mr. Cass, and the general Sabbath rendezvous of American