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EXTRACTS FROM REV. MR. STEWART'S JOUR

NAL.

(Continued from p. 283.)

The appearance of the Island this morning was more beautiful and sublime than any thing I ever beheld. The whole eastern and northern part was distinctly in view, without the least haziness of the atmosphere. The sky glowed in every direction with all the splendid tints of the rising sun. Distance gave a delightful shade, rich and delicate, to the low lands, whilst the precipices and mountains appeared in all their boldness of form and colours, and the icy cliffs, which form the crown of the proud Monakeah, were literally in a blaze, from the strong reflection of the sun. Plantations and villages were distinctly seen near the shore, and the smoke rising from various parts of the country, designated the abodes of men. The want of trees, however, on the parts nearest to us, except on the tops of the hills and mountains, caused an appearance of sterility, not often visible in American scenery.

At 9 o'clock, being perfectly becalmed, one of our boats put off for the shore, and in a few moments afterwards we saw canoes approaching from the Island. As they drew near us, every eye was fixed in silent observation. From the cabin we had a full view.-I assisted Harriet from her state room to behold for the first time, the uncultivated beings with whom we were to spend our lives. The first view of these wretched creatures was, especially to the females, almost overwhelming. Their rude canoes-naked persons, wild but interesting countenances their whole appearance in fact, struck them as half man and half beast; and produced an involuntary burst of tears, and they were obliged to retire to their births, before they could recover sufficient composure and fortitude to go

on deck to see them.

They remained an hour or two, disposing of fish and watermelons, bananas, and sweet-potatoes, and greatly commended themselves to our commiseration and sympathy, by the artlessness and simplicity of their manners, and an apparent sprightliness and intelligence of mind. They seemed greatly rejoiced to know that more missionaries had come : and on hearing it, addressed each other in the most animated manner, frequently ejaculating—“ Missionary, good, good, very, very, good." They informed us that the missionaries were all well-that Mr. Chamberlain and family had sailed for America,-that the King and chiefs were at Oahu-Riho Riho, drunk, &c. &c.

One of the females was remarkably interesting, some of the ladies gave her a coarse dress, with which she appeared much pleased. The calm continued four or five hours, during which, canoes constantly flocked round us, to trade and gratify their curiosity.

April 26.-About 4 o'clock yesterday afternoon a fresh breeze sprang up, and we ran close into the land on the north end of the Island. Every thing exhibit. ed great poverty and wretchedness on this part; there was not a shrub or tree to be seen-every thing seemed burnt up by the sun, and the few habitations that were scattered along the beach, looked more like pigstyes and dog kennels, than the abodes of human beings. This ap peared something like the Owyhee I had pictured to my mind's eye, when I first seriously thought of devoting myself to the missionary work in these islands. Yet the view of it almost made flesh and blood recoil, at the idea of pitching my tent on so barren and miserable a spot. It was enough to make any heart bleed, to think that any human beings, partakers of our nature and heirs of immortality, lived and died in such abject poverty and degradation.

At sunset Owyhee and Monakeah again, at a distance, afforded another of the su blimest of prospects, whilst the depart ing sun and rising moon combined, in producing the finest effects on land and

sea.

We sailed rapidly during a great part of the night, and the prospect was that we would reach Owyhee early this morning. And as I traversed the deck, under this impression, I could not repress the bitter sigh which rose at the thought, that I was enjoying for the last time on board the Thames, that which had so often given unmingled delight. Towards morning, however, the wind died almost entirely away, and we have been sailing slowly under the lee of Mowee, Ramai and Morakeah, with the promontories of Oahu still far before us in the north west.

All the Islands have a mountainous and rocky aspect, not very interesting when seen at a distance, except from their wild and romantic outlines. On a near ap proach, there is much beauty and fertili ty, visible between and underneath the precipices and mountains.

April 29.-I now address you, my dear sister, from the inner harbour of Honoruru-for so many months past the place of our destination. After writing the above on Saturday evening, we were again favoured with a fine breeze, and at 12 o'clock, by the light of a splendid moon, we made the south west point of Oahu 5 miles distant. This island appeared

more beautiful than those we had passed; indeed, nothing can excel the wild grandeur of the mountains and valleys-the cliffs and promontories, as seen in approaching it, as we did. At sunrise we passed Diamond Hill, the crater of a former volcano, jutting into the sea, and immediately had a view of the harbour and town of Honoruru, surrounded by a rich and open country, with extensive groves of cocoanut, and plantations of the banana and taio scattered over its plains. We were surprised to see quite a forest of masts in port, and not a little rejoiced in beholding the "star spangled banner" waving from the heads of most of them. We cast anchor in the open roads at 8 o'clock, in a range with three other ships, two American and one English.

At 9 o'clock the captain lowered his boat, and Mr. Richards, Mr. Bishop, two of the native boys, and myself, accompanied him on shore. As we came near to the town, and were making for the most convenient landing place we saw, we were arrested by the loud exclamation, "tabu! tabu!" and found we were at the royal residence. William K. replied, "new missionaries," at which we were requested to wait a moment till the queen could be called. As soon as she was informed who the boat contained, she hastened to the spot and informed us, that for the present this landing place was tabooed, and politely begged us to row to a place on the beach, to which she pointed, where she would meet us. By this time she was joined by a gentleman, whom we afterwards discovered to be Mr. Jones, the American consul. She took his arm and walked to the appointed spot, where we landed, and were introduced to her majesty by Mr. Jones. She received us very graciously, and assured us we were welcome to the island. She then returned to the palace, and we accompanied Mr. J. to his residence, a two story frame house, well finished, and painted, with a pleasant piazza and balcony. Most of the sea captains were there, and being principally commanders of whaling vessels, Captain Clasby found himself at once surrounded by old friends. The news of our arrival soon reached our missionary friends; and in a few moments we were in the embraces of Mr. Loomis, and Rev. Mr. Ellis, a missionary under the patronage of the London Missionary Society of Great Britain; and we immediately accompanied them to the missionary house, nearly half a mile on the plain east of the consul's. Mr. Bingham had gone to Waititi, three miles south, to preach in the native language to a considerable part of the royal family and chieftains, encamped there as a temporary residence. VOL. II.-Ch. Adv.

We attended English service in the chapel at 11 o'clock. Mr. Thurston preached to an audience of about 100 foreigners, about 60 of whom were American captains, and mates, and well dressed decent looking seamen. The service could not have been otherwise than deeply interesting to us, if from no other cause than the appearance of the chapel, and the recollection of the place in which it was thus dedicated to the worship of the only living and true God: It was indeed pleasant once more to tread the courts of Zion though in their humblest form, and refreshing again to sit beneath the dropping of the sanctuary. We felt it good to be there, for it was the house of God and gate of heaven.

On returning from the chapel, we had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Bingham. I dined with Mr. and Mrs. Ellis. News having reached Waititi of our arrival, the queen dowager, Keopuolani and Kaamanu-Tanmualiu, king of Tanai (incorrectly Tamoree and Atool) and Mr. Pitt, alias Karainioku, the prime minister, despatched Kekauonohi, one of Riho Riho's wives, to request our attendance at W. with Mr. B. in the afternoon. The young queen rode in a one horse wagon, drawn by a troop of noisy natives, and followed by her personal attendants, one bearing two beautiful feathers, the only particular badge of honour and rank in the nation. Our walk was pleasant; first over a large open plain without any trees or cultivation, and then through successive groves of cocoanut trees and plantations of the banana and taio. The encampment was in bamboo bowers, immediately by the sea side, in full view of the breakers and ocean, and commanding a fine prospect, including the town and harbour of Honoruru, and the country and mountains to a great distance. We were very affectionately received and most cordially welcomed by the whole family; and were delighted with the interest they manifested in the improvement they were engaged in, and in the services of the day. They repeatedly declared themselves rejoiced to see us, and glad we had arrived on tabu day (the Sabbath).

At sunset we returned to the ship much. gratified with our excursion, and rejoicing more than ever that we had listened to the call from the regions of darkness.

We did not see Riho Riho; and I am sorry to state the reason-he was dead drunk, in which state he had been for four or five days, when the great annual feast, in commemoration of the death of Tameamea and of his accession to the throne, was celebrated.

Early yesterday morning we fired a gun for the pilot to take us into the inner 2 S

harbour, but before he came on board, the wind sprang up unfavourably, and we were obliged to remain another day outside the reef which almost encircles this port. During the morning, Mr. and Mrs. Bishop, and Mr. and Mrs. Goodrich, went on shore. Mr. Jones the consul, and Mr. Green, of Boston, came off to wait on the family, and in the afternoon Mr. Bingham, Mr. Ellis, and Mr. Loomis. This morning the pilot came on board again, and made a more successful attempt than yesterday. We are now safely moored within ‘a stone's throw of the king's house and of the town, immediately under the walls of the fort. Our entrance into the harbour was very beautiful-though scarce a sail was unfurled-we were towed by twenty well manned whale boats, whose manouvres in passing the narrow channel were exceedingly novel. Thus my dear M. has God kindly prospered and blest us. Under the most propitious circumstances, we have hailed the place of our destination. We do it joyfully and thankfully, though we know and feel, that at the same time we must say farewell ease and elegancefarewell quiet enjoyment-and I had almost added, farewell earthly comfort!

May 3d.-We are still on board the Thames. It is judged most prudent for Harriet to defer removing to a grass hut as long as possible, and Captain Clasby has kindly insisted on our retaining our accommodations on board ship, till he puts to sea again. The rest of the family disembarked on Tuesday. It was signified early after reaching our anchorage in the inner harbour that day, that some of the family would be expected at the royal residence soon. Four or five of the gentlemen, including myself, landed immedi. ately, and were introduced to his majesty and most of his court. R. was much indisposed, being just on the recovery from his drunken frolic. He was reclining on a couch of black velvet, perfectly naked, except a few yards of chintz thrown negligently round his waist. Several of his attendants were fanning him, and one of his queens giving him tea. He looked stupid, and so much the worse for his debauch, as to be almost disgusting and brutish. He was too unwell to do more than signify his pleasure at our arrival, and request the whole family to call on their way from the ship to the mission house. This they did, and found all the principal personages of the kingdom assembled to meet them, including the party we saw at Waititi on Sunday. Riho Riho was much in the same state as when I saw him after breakfast. Most of the others appeared to very great advantage, especially the favourite queen, Kamehamaru. She was seated on a sofa, at a long table covered with a superb

cloth, with her writing desk before her, and a secretary at each end, recording the names and taxes of a district of her subjects, then paying their tribute. These entered in single file, and depositing their money on the side of the table opposite her, passed out at the other end. Every twenty or thirty of these were preceded and followed by a couple of the king's body guard, armed and in uniform. The only dress of the queen was a long and loose pink slip. She left her writing desk to receive the missionaries, but immediately after welcoming them, she excused herself from further attentions on account of the business before her, and returned to her table. She is a fine looking woman, very tall and large, about 20 years old. Her countenance is very mild and amiable-her manners dignified and graceful, and her whole appearance that of a fashionable and well bred woman, so far as good breeding consists in an unaffected expression of conscious and ac knowledged superiority. I forgot to men tion that her dress on the Sabbath, when she first met us, was a beautiful striped and figured pink satin, made and worn the American manner, with a head dress of handsome feathers. She is a woman of business, and appeared well versed in that before her whilst we were there. She has ordered a roll book opened, in which the names, residence, and tax of each of her subjects is to be registered, and it was the superintendence of this, that so much engaged her attention that morning.

Kaamanu, the favourite wife of the late king, also excited a good deal of admira tion. To speak candidly, I do not think I

ever saw any lady enter a room with more real majesty than she did. Her walk was stately, and look and manners really elegant. She was in the native female dress: it consisted of several large and graceful folds of the richest yellow satin, falling from the waist to a little be low the knee, fastened by a large and negligent beau in front; and of a large mantle of purple satin, of the same quali ty, containing perhaps twenty yards, passing under one arm and over the other shoulder, and flowing on the ground far behind her. Her hair was handsomely dressed and ornamented with a double coronet of the exquisite feathers, so often mentioned in accounts of these islands; colours bright yellow, crimson, and bluish green. She appears about 40 years of age, is large and fleshy, and has an expression of greater sternness and hauteur than most others. The young princess Nahienaena, Riho's sister, was also an interesting object. She arrived some time after we did. She was brought on the shoulders of a stout man-the way in

which she usually travels-and was followed by a train of about 20, principally boys and girls of her own age (9 years). Her dress was a black satin trimmed with broad gold lace, with a necklace of feathers similar to the head-dress of Kaamanu, and black satin hat and feathers. She is a very pretty and well behaved childI do not mean for an Indian, but according to our own ideas of the characteristics of childhood. The same may be said of her brother Keanoikioli, the heir apparent he is 2 years older than his sister. Mr. Bingham says both are very good scholars.

Tamuari (Tamoree incorrectly) king of Tanai has excited much interest in America: he was there, seated on the same mat with Kaamana. He is an interesting man in appearance as well as in character. His countenance and whole manner indicate a pensive and dispirited mind, and you cannot behold him without feeling, that he is, and knows himself to be, a royal captive, though in honourable exile! He has been completely duped out of his island, and will never again enjoy the government of it, though still styled King of Tanai." He has a noble facea fine mixture of Grecian and Roman; and when in possession of his hereditary rights, and could feel as well as exclaim "I am monarch of all I survey"-he must have been of most commanding appearance.

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The dress of kings in this country, will be as interesting to you as that of queens and princesses, and since Riho Riho appeared naked, I will give you Tamuari's. It consisted of black silk velvet coat and pantaloons, and buff waistcoat, with a three hundred dollar gold watch, &c. &c. We remained an hour, greatly interested by the appearance of civilization and progressive improvement, clearly observable in all we saw.

Yesterday, about one o'clock, Kaikieri, a chief of some consequence, came on board to visit the ship. In about two hours, the king himself, and Kinau, one of the queens, and Mr. Pitt, with their train, appeared on the stone wharf, near the fort, and made a signal for our boats, and boarded the Thames under flying colours, a salute, and musick. How different now from the intoxicated Indian we had seen but two days before. He is a noble look. ing man-perhaps the most so of any on the island. His manners are very easy, and whole behaviour polite and pleasing. His dress was a full suit of superfine navy blue, well fitted to his person, and fashionably made-round hat and Wellington boots. They remained about two hours, partook of such refreshments and liquors as the ship afforded, and landed with the same honours from the ship that were given on coming on board.

Mrs. Bingham, Mrs. Ellis, and Mrs. Loomis, have also been on board to see Harriet.

To-day captain Clasby gave a dinner to the consul and captains in port: Harriet and Betsy S-superintended it, and Mr. Jones was pleased to pronounce it superior to any thing he had seen since he left America.

May 7th. On Sunday 4th, our dear boy was baptized, in order that captain Clasby, whose name he bears in addition to my own, might be present, not expecting to be another Sabbath in port. The reinforcement was also received to the church, and the sacrament administered, which made it a most interesting day. The chapel was thronged with the grandees of the kingdom, and the officers from the shipping.

The English service is at 11 o'clock. There are two services in the native language, one at 10 o'clock, and the other at 4 o'clock, P.M. at which Messrs. Bingham, Ellis, and Thurston preached by turns. Harriet went immediately to the ship after the baptism, lest any further fatigue might endanger her health, three weeks only having elapsed since her confinement. I returned to the native service at 4 o'clock, and was greatly delighted. I do not know when I have experienced stronger emotions than whilst standing at the chapel door, and beholding crowds of people well dressed in the American and European fashions, flocking to the humble temple at the sound of that "church-going" bell, which, till within three years,

"These valleys and rocks never heard." There were not less than 400 persons in the chapel, and scarce a native dress was to be seen: whilst the decent behaviour and quiet attention of all, and solemn appearance of many, might well put to blush not a few of those I have seen at church in Christian lands.

Riho Riho was of the number-perfectly sober, attentive, and well behaved. He looked remarkably well; was dressed in a round coat and pantaloons of dove coloured satin, white satin waistcoat, and silk stockings. No person could have appeared more like a gentleman.

Kamehamaru, the favourite queen, first saw Harriet and Charles at the Mission House on the Sabbath. She immediately took the latter in her arms, and claimed him as her own. On Monday, at 11 o'clock, she visited us on board the Thames, accompanied by five or six servants only, and was very pleasant. My writing desk being open, she sat by it, and wrote in English and Honoruru, and read to me in both. She is fond of study, and proud of the acquirements already made.

May 10th. Captain Clasby having expected to put to sea to-day, we had our

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