THE

MONTHLY REVIEW.

JUNE, 1832.

ART. I.-Calabria during a Military Residence of three Years: in a Series of Letters, by a General Officer of the French Army. From the original MS. 8vo. pp. 360. London: Wilson. 1832. SOME travellers and most, writers of romance love to affright their readers with accounts of Brigands, whom, though they may never have seen one, they describe with a minuteness that gives their portraits the face of reality. Yet we generally either know or suspect them to be altogether poetical inventions, introduced for the purpose of exciting a sensation. It is therefore something new to come in contact with Italian banditti and their emissaries, in their proper persons; to witness their actual combats, to look into their mountain caverns and forest retreats, to converse with them and observe the finesse with which they set about the accomplishment of their schemes of plunder and revenge. A French officer, who for a short time previous to, and during the reign of Murat in Naples, was employed with a detachment of Napoleon's army, in endeavouring to exterminate the Brigands who then infested, (and still unhappily continue to infest), the provinces of the two Calabrias, kept a journal of his operations, which he still retains in manuscript, and from which the work now before us has been translated, It is full of curious details concerning that portion of Italy, its productions, climate, inhabitants, and, above all, of its Brigands, who formed the peculiar objects of his observation and hostility.

It is clear enough that the author exaggerates rather than extenuates their crimes, and that he more than once mistakes the hatred which the peasantry and people generally entertained against their French invaders, for the base habits of brigandage. It is very well known that there never were brigands of a more profligate character than the straggling divisions of the French army, placed in VOL. II.-(1832.) No. II.

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remote stations, for the purposes of military occupation. We often have thought, in reading this General Officer's journal, that we had only to reverse the medal, and say of the French soldier, "de te fabula narratur"-the story applies just as well to yourself. Insurrection and national animosity are mixed up by the writer so frequently with mere banditism, if we may coin a phrase, that it is difficult to distinguish the honourable deeds of the Calabrians from those that were criminal. He also imputes to the British forces then stationed in Sicily, the wickedness of making use of the brigands, as their instruments in propagating a spirit of resistance, wherever the French endeavoured to establish themselves. An English author, treating of the same events, would doubtless have described that "wickedness" as sound policy, and those same brigands as patriotic peasants. In fact the journal contains the account of the incessant rustic war which the Calabrian people waged against their invaders—a war, however, carried on, we might truly say, on both sides a-la Brigand. The hair-breadth escapes, the night marches, the surprises, the mountain combats, are therefore not the less characteristic of the country and its inhabitants, although we would fain believe that they arose, for the most part, from an origin more creditable to the natives, than this French General Officer would be willing to acknowledge.

Calabria, taking the two provinces under the general name, may be described as the instep of the boot which Italy is said to resemble; it is the terra incognita of modern Europe, although frequently mentioned in the classic pages of antiquity, and the most picturesque and romantic portion of a land, famed beyond all others for its beauty. Several of its towns are charmingly situated. One of these, Monteleone, is seated upon an eminence which commands a view of the Apennines on one side, and of the sea upon the other, crowned in the distance by the bluish smoke of Etna. A second, Nicotera, is still more favourably situated. You may see from it the most elevated part of the shores of Sicily, including Mount Ætna, and in the distance the Lipari Isles. When the shades of night descend, the summit of Stromboli, always glowing with flame, enhances the grandeur of the spectacle. One of the finest towns in Calabria, however, is Palmi, built upon the sea coast at the foot of Mount Corona. It was destroyed by the earthquake of 1783, but has since been rebuilt on a regular plan. Near it is a forest of chestnut trees, of prodigious height. On emerging from these, you behold all at once the strait which separates Sicily from Calabria, always animated by a great number of ships and small craft, which cross each other in every direction; the magnificent harbours of Messina, and all its splendid neighbourhood of towns, villages, and palaces, grouped together on the acclivities of mountains covered with the finest verdure. The following description of the route from Cosenza to Nicastro, will afford some idea of the peculiarities of the country, and of the dangers which were to be encountered at that period, in traversing it.

Having left Cosenza on the 22d, we arrived on the same day at Rogliano, where all the companies formed a junction. The next morning we descended, by a crooked flight of steps, into a deep valley, of which I believe I have before given you some account. The whole battalion formed into one long file of men, with a train of horses and mules, which, winding along the sides of this steep declivity, presented the appearance of a vast theatrical array. The torrent which bellows forth from the bottom of this abyss we passed over by means of a crazy bridge, leading to a narrow pathway, which, after a thousand turnings, and frequently placing us in a state of suspension over frightful precipices, conducted us close to the top of a high mountain. The snow, which here remains on the ground the whole winter, being now frozen over and slippery, increased the dangers of this most arduous passage. We were still fortunate in having accomplished it without falling into any ambuscade. The soldiers, marching in single file, silently pursued their way through all the windings of this mazy labyrinth, and they were getting out of it without any accident, when the troops escorting the baggage, having arrived at a narrow pass at the verge of a steep rock, were suddenly assailed with a discharge of musket shot, which wounded several men. But, fortunately, that part of the escort which had not yet got into this murderous pass, clambered rapidly up to the top of the mountain, where the brigands lay in ambush, and put them to flight. We were the less prepared for this treacherous surprise, since the advanced guard, charged with reconnoitering the heights, gave us no warning of it. The French are really happy in having no campaign to make in this country, which is full of cowardly bandits; for if the insurrection was organized, the inhabitants, while profiting by the great advantages which local difficulties present to them at every pass, might, without any danger to themselves, destroy us in detail.

The

'After a march of seven hours, the battalion arrived at Scigliano, the principal place of the canton, covered with mountains and forests. following morning, on our departure for Nicastro, the hoar frost rendered the ground so slippery, that it was with extreme difficulty we could support ourselves in getting down a yawning abyss, enclosed by a steep mountain, the only ascent to the summit of which was by a very narrow and abrupt path. So glassy was our progress, in consequence of the frost, that the mules could not ascend with their burdens, and the troops, with the most painful exertion, carried up the baggage to the platform, which crowns the mountain.

'We afterwards entered the plain of Sauveria, and halted for a long time near a large mansion, which is constantly occupied by a French detachment, stationed there to furnish escorts, and hold in check the inhabitants of the adjacent villages, who are generally addicted to brigandage. This edifice has embattlements on its walls, and is protected by stockades. A dire event, which occurred on the very day of the battle of St. Euphemia, has rendered these precautions necessary. The company that occupied this post being abandoned in consequence of the retreat of General Regnier, was attacked by the whole population of the surrounding neighbourhood, and having exhausted all its means of defence, was massacred to the very last man.

'On quitting this plain, where the cold was extremely sharp, we

ascended a hill, which all at once presented us with one of the most charming views in nature. A vast horizon, bounded by the sea, and illumined by the setting sun, whose rays tinged the bay of St. Euphemia to a considerable distance, placed before us a picture of the most enchanting description, which was admirably contrasted with the wild and savage region we had just traversed. This magnificent and brilliant scene made us forget all the fatigues of our march, and the troops, whom excessive toil had made sullen and silent, now resumed all their wonted gaiety.

On the other side of the hill we passed by the beautiful village of Platania, whose inhabitants (of Albanian origin) approached us with an affable air, and we were no less charmed with the suavity of their manners than with the elegance of their attire. This was the first time when, far from flying from our presence, the people of these countries evinced a friendly disposition towards us. As we continued to descend, the cold sensibly diminished, and we soon found ourselves among olives,— a happy indication of a fine temperate climate. At the close of the evening the battalion entered Nicastro, inhaling with delight the balsamic odour which was shed from orange and lemon trees.

Nicastro is a large well built town, situated at the entrance of Hither Calabria. The woody hills with which it is almost surrounded, and the lofty towers of an old castle that commands it, give to the place an appearance quite romantic and picturesque.

We have spent two days in exploring the localities of the bay, with which it is necessary that we make ourselves well acquainted. The mountains that environ it stretch out towards the sea on the one side as far as Cape Suvero, and on the other as far as the point on which the little town of Pizzo is built. This space forming a circular tract of about twentyfive miles, is partly covered by a thick forest, and traversed by two rivers, the Angitola and the Amato, whose waters not having sufficient vent render the soil marshy and the air humid: two circumstances which, though favourable to vegetation, are still most injurious to health, for they never fail to generate diseases in the hot months. That part which is not inundated produces Turkey corn in abundance, and this constitutes the principal support of the inhabitants. In the low grounds there are large plantations of rice, and we met with some sugar-canes, which were perfectly well grown. Olives rising to the height of forest trees spread over all the upper tract; but the oil is of a bad flavour, and used only in manufactories. A number of farm houses and fine country seats are scattered over the whole plain, particularly in the neighbourhood of Nicastro. This charming region, from which the confined waters might very easily be removed by a free issue, never experiences any of the rigours of winter. soon as the autumnal rains have ceased, the softest and most equal temperature renders it a delightful abode. The mountains, on which are seen a great number of villages and detached dwellings, present a singularly pleasing aspect; and from the great fertility of the soil, the inhabitants might lay up abundant and varied stores, did they but know how to avail themselves of the vast bounty offered to them by indulgent nature.'—pp. 67-74.

So

The village of St. Euphemia stands at a distance of about five miles from Nicastro: it is built on the ruins of an ancient city,

which has given its name to the bay. One of the chief haunts of the brigands was the forest in its neighbourhood.

'The forest of St. Euphemia is generally known as the haunt of one of the most active of the bandit chiefs. It was from this point chiefly that intelligence was received of the English being in correspondence with the numerous bands spread over the surface of the two provinces. The facility of debarkation has doubtless induced them to give a preference to this spot, bordering as it does on a high and woody mountain, the passes through which can secure them access to those of the interior of the country. This forest, extremely thick, and with a swampy soil, is a mysterious labyrinth, of which none but the brigands can discover the clue. So complex and intricate are its numberless avenues, and so obstructed with underwood, which is absolutely impenetrable when defended by an armed force, that our troops have never been able to open a way through. An old villain named Benincasa, the most noted of all the Calabrian brigands, is the great leader of the several hordes that infest this dangerous quarter. Covered with murders and atrocities long before the arrival of the French, he could only escape justice by flying to the woods and rallying around him a numerous band of assassins. Last autumn an attempt was made to destroy this frightful haunt, and to ensure success it was determined to treat with Benincasa, and offer him and his associates very advantageous terms; but the business has proceeded so slowly, and with so little address, that nothing effectual has yet been accomplished; while these brigands, fearing to be routed from their den, have again taken to the open country, after having committed all sorts of horrible atrocities.

The habits of a lawless mode of life, and of an independence equally savage and ferocious, in which the Calabrian peasants are bred up from their infancy, have constantly rendered useless all those amnesties which have so often been tried. They regard as a stratagem all means of lenity and persuasion to which we seek to have recourse, or as a proof of our weakness; hence nothing but the utmost rigour can be employed against them with effect.'-pp. 76-78.

The author's remarks upon the classic associations connected with the Lipari Isles, and upon the formidable earthquake which, in many places, changed the surface of Calabria, in 1783, are worth extracting.

It is generally thought that the Lipari Isles, called by the ancients the Eolian Isles, are a volcanic creation. The astonishing changes which they have undergone at different epochs would seem to establish the fact. The ancients reckoned them at only seven, but at the present day there are eleven, whose tops, always smoking, still emit neither flame nor volcanic matter. Stromboli is the only furnace among them which is continually burning. It was here that Virgil placed the forge of Vulcan, in which the celestial armour of Eneas was made. It was in these isles that the ancients fixed the residence of Eolus, the God of the winds, who kept them confined in vast caverns, from which at his good pleasure he could raise tempests or favour navigation. Diodorus Siculus says that a sage naturalist named Eolus has given rise to this fable. Having succeeded in predicting the state of the weather by means of observations on the smoke and other volcanic phenomena, he excited the belief that the winds were obedient to his will.