6

*

ordering a cessation of hostilities. Hofer, for a time, concealed himself; but, in January, the place of his retreat was betrayed by a traitor, once his intimate friend,' and he was conducted a prisoner to Mantua, and shot. Haspinger, who had not joined in the last fruitless and fatal struggle, after lying hid among faithful friends for nine months, escaped, in the monkish habit, to the abbey of Einsiedeln in Switzerland; and thence, by way of the Grisons, the Veronese, and Friuli, to Vienna. Speckbacher was less fortunate; and his adventures and sufferings, as detailed by Mr. Latrobe, on the authority of his widow and children, from Christmas 1809-10, till the beginning of the following May, were such as few could have endured or survived. It reflects deep disgrace upon the Tyrolese character, that the high price set upon his head by the Bavarian Government, induced his own countrymen to be his pursuers. After surmounting almost incredible difficulties and perils, he made good his escape, but with a broken constitution, to Vienna, where, in the following year, he was joined by his wife. On the restoration of Tyrol to the dominion of Austria, Speckbacher returned to his native valley, where he closed his days in 1820.

These facts, with additional interesting details, Mr. Latrobe has distributed over different parts of his personal narrative, with a view to relieve the sameness of topographical description. His readers would, we think, have been better pleased, had he given the story unbroken. No one likes to have a tale dealed out to him in scraps. Had the historical sketch been thrown into a distinct chapter, it would have formed an attractive feature of the volume; and the reader would have tracked, with the Pedestrian, the localities referred to in the story, with increased interest.

The conduct of Austria towards these brave people, since the Treaty of Vienna once more consigned them to her leaden sway, has been such as must inspire universal indignation. At this very day, says Mr. Latrobe, the Tyrolese peasant holds down his head, when you speak to him of his past deeds and sufferings, and mutters : The Emperor has forgotten all that we have suffered, and he takes from us even those rights which the " Bavarians left us. It was a foolish war.'

6

The present state of the Tyrolese is far from that which every generous mind could wish; and Austria will one day reap the bitter fruits of her narrow and ungrateful policy towards the bravest and

* His wife and family were permitted to retire to Vienna, where the Emperor gave them an estate, and settled a pension on them. His only son John is at present settled in Upper Austria.' But Mr. Latrobe found Hofer's widow occupying his cottage, now a well known inn, near St. Leonhard's.'

VOL. VIII.-N.S.

31

most devoted of her children. Her conduct during the war of 1809 was indefensible, in instigating them repeatedly to stand in the breach against an overwhelming force, which she herself had not the strength to confront; leaving them finally to extricate themselves from the effects of their imprudence, and at the mercy of their enemies. And her conduct at this day is yet more reprehensible; when, forgetful of the past, she treats the inhabitants of the valleys as the trophies of a recent conquest, rather than as those who have shed their blood, century after century, for the House of Habsburg, and honourably and victoriously upheld its banner, at a time when it was soiled and trampled on in every other corner of her dominions. But it is with nations as with individuals; and the most devoted affection may be eradicated from the bosom of a whole people by ingratitude.' p. 315.

Mr. Latrobe describes the Tyrolese, with whom his extensive peregrinations through their valleys must have made him somewhat familiarly acquainted, as a light-hearted race, fond of hilarity; greatly addicted to musical sounds, however rude,' as well as to dancing, and to games of chance; and priding themselves upon their skill in poetry, so far as rude, pastoral, satirical, and epigrammatic verse can lay claim to the name.'

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They have the character among their neighbours, of being rude to excess in their social intercourse, and it appears to me that such is the fact; yet their frank bearing and real kindness of heart outweighed that defect. They are extremely fond of teasing one another, and will say the most bitter things too in pursuit of this pastime; yet I never remember to have seen blows given in consequence. Their wine, sour and sharp as it is, seems to have the power of washing away all real unkindness. It will have been understood, that they are devout in their religious observances; and here the Roman Catholic religion appears, in spite of its abuses, in an infinitely more favourable light from the unaffected devotion of its followers, than in infidel Italy. The manners of the Tyrolese are not the most pure; the custom of the country winking at considerable licence among the unmarried. Justice however obliges me to add, that conjugal infidelity is rarely known among them. The most influential men among the peasantry have always been the innkeepers; and this is easily understood. They are, in general, men of more enterprizing mind than their neighbours; mostly superior to them in wealth, and, though without the aid of superior education, possessing greater advantages from their constant intercourse with men of all classes, both at home, and by attendance at distant fairs. Such were Hofer, Mayer, Kemenater, and many other of their favourite chiefs.' p. 284.

Of the light-heartedness and improvidence which characterize these mountaineers, and distinguish them from their graver Swiss neighbours, most provoking evidence was afforded to their leaders during the war. At a crisis when ammunition was alarmingly scarce, both among the Austrians posted on the Brenner, and with the Landsturm, the Tyrolese peasantry were, as usual, marrying, baptizing, and feasting, and expending their gun

powder in feux de joie, without the slightest forethought of the consequence of that heedless extravagance.' (p. 93.) A difference in the shade of national character, as well as in the outward garb, distinguishes the inhabitants of the Southern Tyrol from those of the great northern valley. The latter approach more nearly to the Swiss. The costume of the Innthallers has already been described. The style of architecture in their upper villages and hamlets, is decidedly Swiss. In person, the men, though neither tall nor very muscular, are lightly built and active, and, upon the whole, our Author says, a fine race. The inhabitants of the Zillerthal, are distinguished for their manly beauty, and also shew the best taste in their dress. The Zillerthal falls into the main valley of the Inn, running up between 30 and 40 miles into the heart of the Alps, and presenting in its general character a strong resemblance to the more fertile and productive portions of the Swiss range. From its upper extremity, a footway traverses the glaciers into one of the diverging valleys of the Pusterthal; while from Zell, the chief village, another mountain path passes into the Pinzgau or valley of the Salzach, in the extreme east of the Tyrol. Of the Pusterthal, through which the Rienz descends towards the s.w., to meet the Eisack in the vale of Brixen, and of its inhabitants, we have the following description:

me.

The general character of the valley of the Rienz rather disappointed Its fertility is however great, where there is place for it, and the inhabitants are very numerous, and a fine picturesque race. Though the surrounding mountains are in general by no means striking, their higher regions contain some of the finest pasturage in the Tyrol.

The inhabitants are distinguished in many respects from their brethren in the great northern valley. They are, in general, of a fuller make than the latter, and have handsomer countenances. In the male costume, though, in general, the black leather chamois breeches, green suspenders and belt, are preserved, yet there is much more expense and taste displayed in their fashioning and colours. The hat is totally different, being a broad-brimmed yellow article, decorated with a large quantity of green ribbon, instead of the high crown and tassel elsewhere described. I noticed that the hair was in general worn long behind. The women, as elsewhere, are much less remarkable for a prevailing costume than the men. A red vest and red pair of stockings, with the absence of the hideous cap and non-descript hoop, principally distinguished them from the Innthalers. The Pusterthalers are considered the richest peasants in Tyrol. The crops, besides the hay and barley, generally cultivated in Tyrol, comprise a little maize and flax. The cheese is here as elsewhere, detestable beyond all belief. You perceive already in the character of the Pusterthaler, elevated as his valley is, that he has the sunny side of the Alps for his birthplace; for though gesticulation is but sparingly in vogue, the habit of violent screaming in general conversation, reminds you forcibly of Italy. I often lift up my eyes from my occupation, in the idea, that I shall see

blows or worse in a corner of the common apartment, where a special committee of peasants are occupied with some subject of dispute: but no-there they are, perfectly motionless, sitting, leaning on their elbows, with their heads and noses close together in the middle of the table, screaming and swearing like so many madmen: but they mean no harm, and not a finger is stirred.

Forest cultivation here, as elsewhere in the Tyrol, is greatly neglected. Indeed I have already come to the conclusion, that the Tyrolese are, in general, indolent, unenterprising beings; obstinately content to do as their fathers have done before them, and not easily roused to attempt any thing which is not absolutely demanded by present want or present pleasure. Let that principle be what it may, we see in Switzerland the beneficial effects of another system, and a more elevated way of thinking. With what I have already seen of the Tyrol, and that is the portion the least favoured by nature, I should be inclined to say, that it was a country of far greater capability than its neighbour, and of far less improvement, in consequence of the absence of knowledge and of proper attention to its interests. With regard to the towns and villages of the Pusterthal, little need be said, as I observed no great peculiarity. The outward form and proportions of the village churches are in no wise comparable with those in the Upper and Lower Innthal. The interior is, as usual in the Alps, overloaded with tasteless ornaments, and showy display of tinsel artificial flowers, fillagree, hideous daubs, and ex votos. The length of the valley of the Rienz, from Toblach to Mühlbach, may be about thirty miles.'

pp. 124-126.

We must now take leave of the Tyrol, and hasten to close our account with the Writer to whom we are indebted for the most complete and distinct description of that romantic region that has hitherto appeared in our language. Our Pedestrian did not confine his ramble to the Alps; and the reader will be pleased to descend with him for a while, through the vale of the Adige, to Trent, and thence to Padua, Arqua, Venice. Mr. Latrobe passed some time at Trieste, of which he gives a good account, and then took his passage to Ancona, and crossed the Apennines to Spoleto and Rome. Indisposition, the effect of imprudent exposure under the fierce sun of that insidious climate, drove him back to Ancona and Trieste. There, with more than ordinary satisfaction, he resumed his alpenstock and knapsack, thirsting after the fresh breezes, shadows, and waters of the Alps. Crossing the plains of Friuli to Udine, our Pedestrian proceeded by the Pass of Monte Croce, leading from the vale of the Tagliamento into that of the Gail, within the frontiers of Carniola; and thence to Lienz, in the noble valley of the Drave. He did not, however, consider himself again in the Alps, till he had crossed the Islberg into the valley of the Mölbach, in Carinthia. At the head of this valley, the Great Glockner rears its snowy pyramids above its gigantic glaciers, to the height of 12,000 feet above the sea, at the junction of three chains of

the higher Alps, separating Tyrol, Carinthia, and Salzburg. Our Author's adventurous route lay across the glaciers of the Glockner into the Vale of the Isl, whence he made his way once more into the valley of the Rienz. He then diverged from his direct route to Botzen, for the purpose of exploring the Gaderthal and the Grednerthal, lateral valleys opening into the Pusterthal. After a day's halt at Botzen, he ascended the valley of the Adige to Meran, the old capital of the Tyrol; and then struck into the great military road leading over Monte Stelvio, the loftiest pass in Europe. Instead of crossing that col, however, our Pedestrian turned homeward, and gaining the head of Monte Brauglio, crossed the boundary of Switzerland, and entered the Grisons. The Pass of the Buffalora led him, by way of the savage Val del Forno, into the Engadine; and that of the Albula into the Rhine-valley, which he descended to Coire. He then determined to ascend the Vorder Rhine to its source, and to gain the Canton of Bern, by the passes of the Ober-Alp and the Susten. By this route, he once more reached the home from which he had started in the Simmenthal.

Many readers may feel disposed to envy the physical energy, the practical philosophy, and the mental independence which carried our Pedestrian through all the self-inflicted hardships and perils of this adventurous walk among the Alps, and without which the pain would have preponderated over the pleasure. Some may be curious to know, what powerful motive impelled, or what specific object allured the traveller'

'with steps unceasing to pursue

Some fleeting good, that mocks him with the view.'

Was it the love of science? Mr. Latrobe discovers some knowledge of both botany and mineralogy, although he never obtrudes his attainments upon us; but he was no collector; and, moreover, he does not describe the scenes he visited, like a dry dissector of nature's anatomy. Is he an artist ? He has given us no proof of the fact. If he has brought home any sketches, we should like to see them. Some of the worthy people in the Tyrolese concluded, naturally enough, that he must be an engineer or surveyor; but he appears to have travelled without either barometer or theodolite. Did he travel for the purpose of taking notes and printing them? There are no signs of book-making in the volume; no symptoms of literary vanity; nor even any attempt to magnify his Pedestrian achievements. We must do Mr. Latrobe the justice to bear testimony to the unaffected simplicity of character which the volume displays, in its freedom from all pretence, or unpleasing egotism. One circumstance deserving of remark is the perfect security in which, alone and unarmed, he traversed countries in which there is nothing like