IN THE SUMMER OF 1855.

BY WALTER WHITE,

AUTHOR OF

A LONDONER'S WALK TO THE LAND'S END."

"Dem Sånger heißt es Burg der Treue,
Die andern nennen's Land Tirol.”

LONDON:

CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY.

MDCCCLVI.

[The right of Translation is reserved.]

203. C. 43.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

A Holiday in prospect-Where to go-The Passport-London to

Harwich-The Gallopper-The Scheldt-Flushing-A Foreign

Aspect-Land versus Sea-The Forts-Antwerp-Life in the

Streets-A Difficulty-Malines-The Sunday Question-Wor-

ship and Revelry-Which to choose-Another Difficulty-A

Midnight Arrival-A hard Bed-The Rhine Steamer-A Brewery

at Mentz-Talk about the War-Purging the Language-

Mannheim-Bruchsal-Würtemberg Railway Train-Barn-like

Stations-Rural Life-The Maulbronner See-Stuttgart-The

old Streets-The Market-place-The Krim and Ssebastopol-

Luxurious Carriages-The Valley of the Neckar-Ivory Carvers

-Cheap Refreshments-The Geisslingerthal-Ulm-Sausages

and Kirschenkuchen-The Danube-Piles of Firewood-The Ba-

varian Plain-Transformed Talk-Friedrichshafen

CHAPTER II.

A Trip to Rohrschach-The Sentis-The Vorarlberg Mountains-

Traffic on the Lake-From Rohrschach to Lindau-A pretty

Custom-house-Across to Füssach -The Delta-Bregenz-

Under the Austrian Eagle's Wing-An Inquisitor-An Escort to

the Custom-house-The Gebhardsberg-View from the Summit

-Life in the Fields-Growth of the Land-A Place for Enjoy-

ment-Visitors' Names-Civility with a Passport-Begin to

walk-Black and Yellow: Emblems of Authority-Dornbirn-

Religious Emblems-Working and Praying-Change of Man-

ners-Hohenems-Fire! Fire! Fire!-Emulous Fire-engines-

Jews-Strange Dialect-Götzis-A Halbe of Beer-Honesty-

A gay Churchyard-Feldkirch-The Wochenblatt-The Valley

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of the Ill-Mischievous Torrent at Frastanz-Nenzing-Thü-

ringen-The Spinnery and the Spinners-Prices of Provisions-

A Three Hundred Feet Fall-The Bregenzerwald-The Land-

mote-How to elect a Governor-Feats of Bravery-The Night-

folk-Legends-Plainness of Speech

CHAPTER III.

Bludenz-Duke Friedrich-The Montavonerthal-Migratory Folk

-A Storm-Schruns-Costume-" You can't stay here"-The

Village Inn-The Villagers, and what they talked about-The

Gendarme-Bedroom Furniture-Paper Money-The Kloster-

thal-Waterfalls-A meagre Breakfast-House-front Inscrip-

tions - An Innkeeper's Sentiments- The Oratory-Dalaas-

Stuben-Up the Adlerberg-The Snow-Road-menders--The

Summit-The Frontier-Enter. Tyrol-St. Christof-The Res-

cuer-Striking Scenery-St. Anton-Kalbsbraten-Friendly Sa-

lutations-Costume-Going to Church-A Litany-Gladsome

Feelings-Log-houses-Road-side Pictures-Flirsch-An Organ

Polka-The Sunday Question settled-Wagons-Fiddles-The

Rosanna-Castle of Wiesberg-Paznaunerthal-Skulls at Ischgl

-The Innthal-Cross the Inn-Landeck-Swarms of Flies-

The Sunday Question again-England's Downfall-The Miracle

of the Wolf and the Bear-The Ragged Minstrel-The Schro-

fenstein.

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49

CHAPTER IV.

The Upper Inn Valley-Pious Salute-A Gap in the Road-Me-

morials of Calamity-Twilight-The Pontlatzer Bridge-A Re-

miniscence of 1703-An Ambuscade-The War of Independence

-A National Football-Scandalous Usage-The Cow-heads-

An Insurrection-Ways and Means-Preparations for the Enemy

""Tis time"-The Outbreak-Capture of Innsbruck-En-

thusiastic Triumph of the Peasants-Restoration of Plunder-

The Enemy again-New Efforts-Another Triumph-The Fatal

Pass-A Detachment made Prisoners-Prutz-Ried-Sunday

Evening Guests-Tösens-Work and Wages-Price of Land-

"What shall I do with the Sheep?"-Pfunds-Leisurely Tra-

velling-A New Road-The Lofty Arch-Pass of Finstermünz

-Grand Scenery-A Torrent of Stones-The Fortress-Nauders

-A Cabinet-maker-The Blind Sculptor-Naudersburg-The

Snowy Summits - Ober Vintschgau-Source of the Etsch-

Many Crucifixes-A Crown of Thorns-A Friar The Yellow

Wirthshaus-A Tramping Tailor-Prayer before Supper-The

Ortler Spitz

CHAPTER V.

The severe Winter-Terrible Consequences-The Road swept away

-The Flood-The Flowery Heath-Burgeis-Havoc in the

Village-A horrid Gap-Busy Villagers-Loss and Suffering-

Five Bridges carried away-Succours-Mals-A symbolical

Fountain - The Virgin and seven Daggers-The Kitchen-

Things in the Churchyard-View from the Hill-Helf-mir-Gott

-A Murderous Battle-Glurns-Remains of the Flood-Lich-

tenberg-The cheapest Land-An Avalanche of Mud-Meadows

overwhelmed - Agums - Industrious Peasants-Brad - The

great Road of the Stelvio-A furious Stream-Gaps in the Road

-Sullen Scenery-Stilfs-Gendarmes-Gomagoi-Landslips-

Zigzags-Madatsch Spitz-Trafoi - The Two Officers - The

World's End-Sociability.

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CHAPTER VI.

An early Start-A bright Landscape-More Zigzags-Savage

Scenery-Views across the Snow-The Glaciers-Fearful Chasm

-Franzenshöhe-Wild Prospect-The Refuge-A Ruin-Steeper

Cut-offs-A Hailstorm-Shelter under the Gallery - Fall of

Stones-The Two Gendarmes-Their suspicious Inquisition-

A Debate" You must go back!"-A surly Specimen-The

Englishman conquers

- The Road-menders' Fire-The Polenta

Kettle-Bone and Muscle without Meat-More Zigzags-Cost of

the Road-The last Gallery-The Summit-Waste of Snow-

The Ortler Spitz-The Descent-A Squall-Santa Maria-Enter

Lombardy-Lake of Brauglio-Grim Scenery-A Tale of Terror

-The Chief of the Gang-The Würmser-loch-Spondalunga-

Gloomy Vaults-Fir-trees again-Fairyland-Baths of Bormio

-Pleasant Valleys-Bormio-Its Waterspouts-A dirty Inn-

The Mystery explained

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CHAPTER VII.

The Val Furva-Hotel Charges-A Letter to the Hostess-San

Nicolo San Antonio-Dirt, Devotion, and Saw-mills - The

Frodolfo Santa Caterina-The Hotel Kitchen-Bargain with

the Guide-A Chat with the Cook-The Mineral Spring, Val

Forno Start for the Gavia Pass-Talk by the Way-Pic Alto

-Giacomo's Jödeln-The Shepherd's Hut-A wild Ascent-

Stopped by a Snow-ridge-Doubling the Crag-Creep through

a Crevice-A Glacier-A dreary Glen-Ponta di Preda-Sub-

limity of Sullenness-Difficult Walking-Playing a Trick—

Corno dei Tre Signori-The White Lake-The Summit-The