CHAPTER II. GEOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY. THE Island of Cyprus is situated in the north-east part of the Situation. eastern basin of the Mediterranean, with Asia Minor to the north of it and Syria to the east, between latitude 34° 30' to 35° 41′ N., and longitude 32° 15′ to 34° 35' 30" E. The distance from Cape St. Andrea, the north-east extremity of the island, to the nearest point of the Coast of Syria in the neighbourhood of Latakieh, is about 60 miles; Cape Kormakiti on the northern shore is about 41 miles from Cape Anamour in Cilicia. Larnaca, on the southern shore, the chief port of the island, is 258 miles from Port Said, and 1,117 miles from the harbour of Valetta in Malta.* The estimates of the area of Cyprus differ considerably, in con- Extent and sequence, no doubt, of the imperfect manner in which the island shape. has been surveyed. Keith Johnston's estimate is 3,678 square miles, Drs. Unger and Kotschy state it to be 3,788 square miles, other writers believe it to be 4,200 or 4,500 square miles, but these last measurements appear to be considerably above the mark. Cyprus is larger than either Corsica or Crete, the areas of which islands are 3,377 and 3,327 square miles respectively, and the only Mediterranean islands which surpass it in extent are Sardinia and Sicily. The greatest length of Cyprus from west-south-west to east-north-east, between Cape Drepano and Cape St. Andrea, is 140 miles, and the greatest breadth from north to south, between Cape Kormakiti and Cape Gata, is 59 miles. The greater part of the island is in shape somewhat of an irregular parallelogram, about 100 miles long from west to east, and from 59 to 33 miles in breadth; the remainder consists of a peninsula about 40 miles long and from ten to three miles broad, projecting in an east-north-east direction, and terminating at Cape St. Andrea. The ancients compared the shape of the island to that of an outspread deer's skin or fleece, of which the tail was the long peninsula above mentioned; a glance at the map will show that the fancied resemblance was not inappropriate. On the north coast are Cape Kormakiti (the north-west Capes.† extremity), Cape Plakoti, and Cape St. Andrea (the north-east *These measurements are given in English miles of 69°1 to the degree, and are taken from Kiepert's Map of the Ottoman Empire. From Larnaca to Valetta is 970 nautical miles. The Capes, gulfs, bays, roadsteads and harbours are described in the Coast Report at Chapter V, here they are only named. (774) с Gulfs and bays. Roadsteads extremity). On the west coast, Cape Kokkino, Pomo Point, Cape Arnauti, or St. Epiphanio, the ancient Acamas (the most western point), Cape Drepano, and Cape Baffo, or Papho. On the south coast; Cape Bianco, Cape Zephgari, Cape Gata (the southern point of the island), Carrubiere Point, Cape Kiti, and Cape Pila. On the east coast, Cape Greco (the south-east extremity of the island), Cape Elæa, Pyrila Point, and Cape Peda, or Monastery Point. In allusion to these numerous capes the island was at one time called by the ancients, Cerastis, or horn island. Famagusta Bay, or the Bay of Salamis, on the east; Larnaca Bay, Akrotiri (Limasol) Bay, and the Gulf of Piscopi on the south; the Gulfs of Khrysokho, and Morpho, or Pentagia, in the northwest part of the island. The Roadsteads are at Famagusta, Larnaca, and Limasol. and harbours. Formerly there were harbours at Salamis, Famagusta, Baffo, and Cerinea, but the piers are now in a ruined state, and the interiors choked with sand and mud. (See Chapter V.) Towns and large villages.* Mountains. In the interior, Nicosia (the capital), Kythræa, Vatili, Athienou, Dali, Lithrodonda, Kilani (Gilan), Omodos, Lefka. On or close to the coast: South-Larnaca. Limasol, Kolossi, Piskopi, Avdimu, Pysouri, Kuklia. West-Baffo, Ktima, Poli tou Khrysokho, Soli, Morpho. Karpasso). East-Famagusta, Varoschia, Salamis (in ruins). The mountains of Cyprus are the chief topographical feature of the country. They consist of two main systems, which are separate and distinct. The northern range, called the Karpas Mountains, and, towards their western extremity, the Cerinea Mountains, forms a continuous chain bordering the northern shore from Cape St. Andrea to Cape Kormakiti, a distance of about 100 miles. The summit of this range consists throughout of a narrow, but rocky and rugged, ridge, which is generally within about three miles of the coast. At the foot of the northern slope, which is very abrupt, there is a narrow and fertile plain, which is well watered and has a productive soil. On the south side the country falls to the large plain of Messaria, which occupies the centre of the island. Throughout the eastern portion of the range, the elevations do not exceed 2,000) feet, but in the centre and west are higher summits: viz., Kantara, 2,020 feet above the sea; Pentadaktylon, 2,480 feet; Buffavento, 3,240 feet; Mount Elias, 2,810 feet; and St. Hilarion, 3,340 feet.† On the summits of Kantara, Buffavento and St. Hilarion are ruined castles, and there are several monasteries, some of which are also in ruins. The streams flowing from this chain of mountains are merely brooks and mountain torrents, and are short and unimportant. The second range of mountains is the most extensive as well * Nearly all these towns and villages are fully described in Chapters III and IV. These are the heights given on the Admiralty Chart, No. 2074; the figures of other authorities are but very slightly different. as the most lofty; it occupies the whole of the western and southwestern portions of the island, and trending thence along the south coast, terminates in the isolated peak called Monte S. Croce, or Stavrovouni (Oros Stavro), about 12 miles west of Larnaca. The highest summit of this range, which is also the most elevated point in Cyprus, is now known as Mount Troodos, 6,590 feet; this summit is said to be the ancient Olympus, though it is also asserted that the mountain designated by Strabo under that name is evidently Stavrovouni (2,300 feet). Other lofty summits in this chain are Mount Adelphé, 5,383 feet, and Mount Makhera, 4,730 feet* This range throws off on all sides subordinate ranges, or spurs, of considerable altitude, one of these extends to Cape Arnauti, and fills up the north-western extremity of the island. Other spurs, called the Kikko mountains, of which the highest summit is 3,863 feet above sea level, branch off northwards, from the western part of the range, towards Pomo Point, and numerous ramifications extend from Mount Troodos and Mount Makhera towards the southern coast. Lastly, from Stavrovouni a succession of low hills run eastward towards Cape Greco. The northern slopes of the Olympus range are somewhat bold and rugged, but the southern side is still more so, presenting a deeply serrated outline, with partially wooded slopes; the trees found here are chiefly pines of several varieties, oaks, cypresses, &c. The valleys are very deep, and have steep sides which are generally covered with a luxuriant growth of arbutus, olives, myrtles, carobs, junipers, oleanders, and other shrubs. The rivers of Cyprus are nearly all mere mountain torrents, Rivers. with rough and stony beds which are generally dry in summer. None of the rivers are navigable. After the spring and winter rains, the water rushes with violence down the slopes of the mountains, fills up, and then breaks out from, the narrow water-courses, overflowing the surrounding country, and depositing upon it a rich alluvial earth, which enriches the soil, and to which much of its fertility is due. This tendency of the streams to overflow their banks at certain seasons, has, however, an evil effect in the production of large marshes, which breed miasma and cause fevers; to drain these marshes and bank up the channels of the rivers, are, perhaps, amongst the engineering works most urgently needed in Cyprus. The variable condition of the water in the rivers at different times of the year is probably the reason why no fish are to be found in them. The chief rivers of Cyprus which have received names are mentioned below; the list may perhaps appear long for an island of this size, but it must be borne in mind that only the two first-named-the Pedias and the Idalia—are of any real importance at present, the others being almost without exception mountain torrents which cannot be relied upon to have water in their channels except immediately after rain. The largest river in the island is the Pedias; it rises amongst *These are the heights of the Admiralty Chart. Von Löher's measurement of Mount Troodos is 6190 feet, and Unger makes all the heights slightly different from those given above, (774) C 2 the northern slopes of Mount Makhera, and flows at first in a northerly direction past Tamassus to Ano Deftera, where it turns north-east, and forms a loop round the northern side of the capital, Nicosia; it then turns eastward and flows through the plain of Messaria, falling into the sea near the ruins of the ancient Salamis, about four miles north of Famagusta. Its total length is about 65 miles; throughout its middle and lower course in the plain it is largely employed for irrigating the adjacent grain fields; the channel is very narrow, and after heavy rain the water overflows the banks, inundating the surrounding country, and near the mouth extensive marshes have been thus formed. The river Idalia (or Yalias), also has its source on the northern side of Mount Makhera; it flows north-east through Lithrodonda and past Dali (the ancient Idalium), and here fertilizes a large district. After a course of about 38 miles it falls into the River Pedias in the Messaria plain to the north of the village of Vatili, and about 13 miles west of Salamis. The Plaho is another small tributary of the Pedias which flows from the north side, and joins it about five miles from the mouth. The springs at Kythræa to the north-east of Nicosia supply a large amount of water. and, after the several streams unite, they form a river which, though short, is of the highest importance as a fertilizing agent, and is also used to work several mills. It flows due south, and falls into the Pedias about two and a half miles below the ancient Chytri. The rivers which enter the sea on the south coast of the island are the following: The Tretus (or Tetios) river, rises near the Thekla monastery, about five miles south of Dali, and flows southward; near its mouth it waters a level tract of country to the west of Cape Kiti, and falls into the sea on the south coast of the island after a course of about 16 miles. A river, which in some maps is called the Deresi, rises in a valley to the north-east of Monte S. Croce, and flowing southward nearly parallel to the Tretus, enters the sea about one and a-half miles west of that river. It is probably not more than a mountain torrent. The Pentaskhino river rises on the south side of Monte S. Croce, and after receiving the waters of several rivulets falls into the sea close to Dolos Point. The Maroni river rises in the high ground north of Lefkara, passes on the east side of that place, and then flows southwards to Maroni, falling into the sea a few miles east of Cape Carubier. The Vasilipotamus rises among the southern slopes of Mount Makhera, and flows south towards Cape Carrubiere. The St. Helenas stream rises in the high ground above Ora, and flows southward. The Moni river also rises near Ora, and takes a southerly course past the village of Moni on the Larnaca-Limasol road, reaching the shore slightly to the eastward of the site of the ancient Amathus. The Garili river is amongst the most important in the island; it takes its source in a valley on the south side of Mount Adelphé, and flows due south to Limasol. It formed the boundary between the Piskopi and Limasol districts. Its length is about 20 miles. The Piscopi river is made up of several streams which rise on the The Khapotamus flows southwards from near Plataniskia. The Diarisos, or Hieropotamus, rises in the mountainous region to the west of Mount Troodos, passes near Omodos, and enters the sea close to Kuklia and Palæ Paphos. This is one of the principal rivers of the island. The River Ezusa, the ancient Bogarus, rises slightly to the west of the Diarisos; it flows in a south-westerly direction, and enters the sea nearly opposite the Mulia rocks, to the south of Baffo. None but very small and unimportant torrents flow into the sea on the west coast between Baffo and Cape Arnauti. On the north-west side of the island we find several streams: The Aspno Bremo torrent flows from near Khrysoroghiatissa into the Gulf of Khrysokho, near the town of that name. The Xerophano river rises in a valley amongst the northwestern spurs of the Troodos range, near the Kikko monastery, and flows northwards, entering the sea close to Cape Limniti. The Klaros river rises on the north side of Mount Troodos, and flows northwards, past Evrikou, into the Bay of Morpho. The Morpho river flows westwards through the plain of Morpho, where it is largely utilized for irrigation, and falls into the Bay of the same name. Along the north coast, from Cape Kormakiti to Cape St. Andrea, a large number of mountain torrents rush down, after rainy weather, from the mountains which border the shore, but none of them are of importance, or can even be depended upon to contain any water in their channels except during winter. The chief springs are at Kythræa, Hierokipos, Arpera, Karava Springs. and Lapethus. The three first-named are especially worthy of notice on account of their volume of water. Kythræa is about nine miles north-east of Nicosia, and near the foot of the southern slope of the mountains which here border the coast. The water issues from a limestone breccia in five large streams and several smaller ones; these soon unite, forming a small river which is a fertilizing agent for the whole district, and has caused settlements to be established in this neighbourhood from the earliest ages. The water is of good quality, and is always cold in summer. The stream is sufficiently strong to work about a dozen mills; the water was at one time conveyed by a large aqueduct to the then populous city of Salamis, 25 miles distant, but now all that remains from irrigation runs into the Pedias near Chytri. Hierokipos is a small village about three miles east of Baffo, and is supposed to have been the site of the garden of Venus; here a large spring gushes out from the rock, supplying abundance of excellent water, which is of the highest value in the cultivation of the gardens in the vicinity. Arpera is a small village about seven miles south-west of Larnaca; the water of the spring at this spot has, for hundreds of years, been brought by means of an aqueduct to Larnaca, but this supply alone is |