upon them, and were in every case appreciated. They set a high value on everything we did for them; I may as well add that they considered us perfect Crichtons in our attainments. One of them, while employed aft, having caught sight of a sketch of the diabekeeh, described it in such glowing colours to the others, that I had no rest till it was displayed. I asked them if they observed a resemblance, and they clapped their hands, and pronounced it "taib catere" (very good). The feeling was unanimous; every man instantly requested that a sketch might be made of himself.

For three successive days we made but little progress, the wind being too feeble to impel us against the stream. The men did their best to track us, but the towing ropes, owing to the continual strain upon them, were constantly breaking; and in the whole three days we did not get over thirty miles.

We passed Manfaloot, whence our course lay under a range of towering crags, starting boldly up, and overhanging the river for some miles. Their appearance was very grand and imposing.

We

Soon afterwards we caught sight of the Tombs of Benihassan, scarcely visible in the distance; they made us long for the moment of our return, when we agreed to examine them carefully. Other marvels, however, were before us, luring us eagerly on. had gone but a short distance further, when we discovered our first crocodile. It was quite a young one, about five feet long, and was lying comfortably on bank, basking in the sun. We flew for our rifles; they were unloaded, and before we could get them ready for action “the illustrious stranger " took the alarm, and toppled into the water.

a

On the third day, about half-past nine in

the morning, we encountered a slight shock of earthquake. The boat was aground, and I was writing in the cabin, when I was startled by a concussion, like the trembling of the engine on a steam-boat, and rushed on deck to see what had happened. One of our party was ashore, and felt it much more perceptibly. The earth, we found afterwards, split in many places a full inch; and though the shock lasted only half a minute, it extended for many miles.

We arrived at Ossioot, or Siout, or Essoot -for it is spelt thus differently-at one o'clock on the following morning, having been ten days in coming from Cairo; the journey is usually accomplished in seven.

CHAPTER VIII.

Ossioot-The city gate-The mountain of tombsVisit to Ismail Pasha-Encounter with a Latin monk-Ekekian Bey-Story of a cat-Arrival at Keneh-Visit to Hassan Said-The dancing girls -Departure from Keneh.

Ar six o'clock I was aroused by Mahomet, with an intimation that the donkeys were in attendance to take us to the mummy tombs of Ossioot. They would have been reserved, like all the other antiquities, for our return, but in their contract, the men had made a stipu

lation that they should halt here to make bread. And while they halted, we explored.

The way led through a grove, or, more properly, an avenue of fragrant mimosas and umbrageous oaks, interspersed with sycamore and fig trees, which extended for more than a mile, when we passed through a very pleasant garden, teeming with luxuriant vegetation, to the town. The first view of Ossioot is very striking-no less than eleven dazzling minarets, towering over the grove of mimosas, above which also peer the cupolas of several mosques. A gate opens into a small square, planted with fine trees, that offer a grateful shade, in which scores of Arabs and turbaned Musselmen, in their picturesque attire, were strolling or staring in admiration at two or three richly caparisoned horses, in attendance on Ismail Pasha, who was transacting business in a range of offices which form one side of the square.