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At Boulac, we picked up another boat, for which we were asked £20 a month; we secured it at the rate of £20 for the first month, and £17 10s. for every subsequent month, and the contract was signed at the Consul's the next day. This we named 'The Fanny,' and it was taken formal possession of by my brother and myself, as joint occupants and commanders. The pleasure-yacht, which was not secured till after some days' bargaining, and considerable difficulty, at the high terms of £30 a month received the designation of The Eagle;' and was appropriated to my father and our two ladies.

We had now to make our preparations. 'The Eagle' was soon equipped, and The Fanny,' to get rid of all redundancies, was first sunk, and then painted inside and out, the divans being covered with new calico, the floors matted, and muslin curtains sus

pended as a protection against the swarms. of. flies. The awning was repaired, and the provisions and luggage stowed. At length, after four or five days' incessant toiling, everything was announced to be ready. We had then to wait a day for the Pasha's firman, or letter of command, and it was not till the very last moment that we received our game-certificates, which serve as a kind of passport.

Our boats, meanwhile,

had been brought together, between Rhoda Island and Old Cairo, about half a mile

from the grand city, and there awaited our arrival. 4

CHAPTER VII.

--

Departure from Cairo Ascending the Nile-Invasion of rats-Our dragoman and retinue-The Pyramids Nile etiquette-An evening on shore The Tombs of Beni Hassan-The first crocodileShock of earthquake.

A LOVELY full moon rose clear and calm on the blue sky, shedding its silver radiance over the islet of Rhoda, and its dark green woods, and over the calm and majestic Nile, which looked like a stream of light. On the other side, the sun sank behind the

hills, leaving his last rays, upon the stately minarets of Cairo, whose groves of tall datetrees grew darker every instant. The huge sails were loosed, and expanded to a mild breeze, that had just strength enough to blow out the folds of our Union-Jack, which waved proudly over our heads. It was an exciting moment, but I cannot say that it was wholly free from melancholy; for while we looked up the mysterious river with eager impatience for the wonders we anticipated, we could not but feel, when our anchor was hauled, that we threw off our last hold of society and completely severed ourselves from all communication with with our friends and country, for we had crossed the confines of barbarism.

It was late before I went to bed, and I had scarcely fallen asleep, when I was aroused by a pressure on my feet. At first, I thought some one must be sitting upon my bed and

was about to remonstrate but a sudden squeaking undeceived me, and there I discovered that the intruders were three enormous rats, which had settled themselves very comfortably on the coverlet. Fortunately my boots were at hand, and I flung one into the midst of them, on which they scampered off in great dismay, vehemently protesting against such uncourteous treatment. I then got up, and barricaded the door, in which I was assisted by one of our servants; these men being rare specimens of their class, now claim a word of notice.

Abdel Fateeh el Daireh, our dragoman, is a native of Ossioot. He was recommended to us by the English Consul, Mr. Walne, and can produce a heap of testimonials, all commending him in the highest terms, some particularly lauding him as a lady's man, in which light he was certainly most attentive to our own ladies. He has attended several

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