After the letters had appeared in the columns of the newspaper, the present volume was printed, from the same type; a limited impression being struck off, not for publication, but chiefly for the private gratification of Mr. Horner's and my own personal friends. After the earlier part of the series had appeared in print, additional illustrations of some of the matters touched on, fell in my way; and such of them as I have thought it either important or interesting to add, I have thrown into Supplementary Chapters, -a form which I consider preferable to that of Notes, or of an Appendix. It was satisfactory to know that, at the time of their first appearance, the letters attracted, within the sphere of their circulation, a more than ordinary degree of attention and approval. To myself, their preparation for the press was a grateful relief from the dry details and the angry strifes of the political arena; for, could I consult entirely the dictates of my own taste, I prefer to wander by the gentle waters of Helicon, or to stroll through the still groves of Academus, rather than to fight the battles, and to mingle in the factious conflicts, of selfish and self-interested parties. I have had experience of the latter, as well as of the former; and can feelingly exclaim, with Horace, Beatus ille qui procul negotiis. My connexion with the newspaper press has now ceased, under circumstances of a painful character; and it is yet very uncertain whether I shall continue to reside in Halifax, or shall have to remove to some other town, there to form new friendships, and to seek, perhaps in some other kind of employment, the opportunity, denied me here, of earning an honest livelihood, by the exercise of such talents as I may possess. Wherever my lot may be cast,-to whatever distance I may have to travel, I shall always retain a lively and grateful recollection of many happy hours spent in Halifax, and of some valuable friendships formed amongst its inhabitants. In the number of these friends I have the pleasure of counting Mr. John Horner and his son, Joshua; and, through an intimacy with them, I am proud to add your name to the list; not from any particular personal kindness shown to myself, but, first, because you had the sagacity to perceive merit, and the generosity to patronize it; and secondly, because you have been the long tried and much valued friend of those whose friendship I value, and whose good opinion I treasure up as worthy of my highest esteem. I am, Yours truly, Bedford Terrace, Halifax, HENRY MARTIN. March 3rd, 1841. CONTENTS. - LETTER I.-Boulogne.-Female Porters.-Ab- beville.-A French Dinner. - Beauvois - Jeanne Hatchette.-St. Denis.- Paris.-The Louvre.- The Exhibition of the Beaux Arts.-The Luxem- burg Gallery.. - LETTER II.—Journey from Paris. - Fontain- bleau. Melun. - Dijon. - Genlis. - Auxonne.- LETTER III.-Aubonne. - Ferney.-Voltaire. -Geneva.-Picture Gallery.-Route to Chamouni. -Bonneville.-Ceremonies of the Romish Church. -Mont Verans.-Nant D' Arpenas.-St. Martin's. 7 15 LETTER IV.-The Valley of Chamouni.-Mont Fleguire.-Mode of ascending Mont Blanc.-Fall of an Avalanche. - Montanvert. The Mer de Glace.-The Mountaineers.-The Col de Balme.- LETTER V. Departure from Geneva. Lake of Geneva and its Scenery.-Lausanne.- Brigg. The Simplon. The Refuges. Barrier. The Hospice.-The Village of Simplon. -Gondo.-The Scenery of the Simplon.-Official Account of the Simplon.-Duomo d' Ossola.-Isella. 30 LETTER VI.-Journey from Isella-Arona.--- Carlo Barromeo. - Sesto-calande. - Milan -The Duomo.-Anecdote of Napoleon.-The Tombs in the Duomo.-Agrati's Statue of St. Bartholomew.- The Paintings in the Palazzo delle Belle Arti.-Raf- faelle's Marriage of the Virgin.- The Sculpture Rooms. The Arc de Triomphe. - The Amphi- theatre.-The Ambrosian Library.-The Convent of St. Maria della Grazie.-Leonardo Da Vinci's LETTER VII.-Journey from Milan to Genoa.- The City of Genoa.-Columbus.-Chains taken from the Venetians.-The Royal Palace.-The Cathe- dral. The Palazzo Durazzo.-Paintings by Titian, Guido, and Vandyke. - The Palazzo Brignole.- Paintings by Vandyke, Carravaggio, Rubens, and Paul Veronese.-The Palazzo Pallavincini.-The Palazzo Spignola.-Paintings by Rubens and Van- dyke. The Albergo.-The Grand Hospital.-Leg- horn. The Duomo.- Giovanni's Statue of Fer- dinand I. The Jews' Synagogue. Pisa.- The PAGE. LETTER VIII.-Florence.-The Valley of the Arno.-The Olive Tree.-The Bridges in Florence. -The Fountains.-The Palazzo Vecchio.-Benven- uto Cellini's Perseus.-The Cathedral.-Dante.- The Campanile.-The Baptistry.-The Ufizi Gal- lery. The Venus di Medicis.-The Hall of Niobe. -The Chiesa di Santa Croce; Byron's Lines on it. -The Castellani and Baroncelli Chapels............ 54 LETTER IX.-Route from Florence.-Arezzo.- Cortona.-Thrasymene.-Perugia.-Assisi.-The Vale and Temple of Clitumnus.-Spoleto. -Ban- ditti.-Otricoli.-The Waterfall of Terni, and By- |