them everything I had, which was a small box of dried preserves, a treat which was duly appreciated, and for which they were very warm in their expressions of gratitude. I now joined their party, having lost sight of my own luggage, and not knowing in what direction it might be, glad under any circumstances to be of service to the poor benighted and bewildered ladies. We therefore proceeded together in the hopes of meeting with some casual travellers who might give us information as to where the right track lay. The road, as we advanced, became very narrow, and divided in the centre by an enormous landslip, occasioned, no doubt, by the late heavy rains. There was a passage on each side walled by projecting rocks, very much sunken, and so confined that there was scarcely room for a loaded mule to pass.

Just as we were on the point of entering this defile, the tramp of mules and voices was heard, and presently appeared the advanced guard of persons travelling in charge of treasure forwarded across the Isthmus for the return steamer to Europe. Mule after mule then came in sight, laden

with its precious cargo, each one seeming to follow the bent of his inclination, and straggling about pretty much as he chose. One had lain down under some trees, exhausted with the weight he bore, and was not able to rise again from the ground, till the rear guard came up and rendered his assistance. It is strange with what little caution large sums of money are conveyed through so apparently dangerous a locality. I noticed that the guards, so far from having their muskets ready for use on any sudden emergency, carried them carefully wrapt up in green baize strongly corded to protect them from the rust. However, I was informed that only two attempts at robbery had been made on the convoy in the course of several years, which naturally abated my astonishment at the seemingly ineffectual measures taken for their protection. From the officer in command I received the intelligence that the road in advance of us was in a very bad condition, and it was evident, as the sun was fast setting, that we should be in total darkness in a very short time. He advised, as the distance to Panama was very considerable, that the best course for us to adopt was to

remain for the night at two Ranchos, a short way off, having no doubt that our companions and luggage mules had taken the other road. We resolved to act upon this advice, the plan proposed appearing to us so feasible, and made off as fast as we could to the place indicated.

On our arrival at the Ranchos, we found them occupied by two young gentlemen; one an officer in the Bolivian service, and the other an architect in the employ of the same Government. They politely gave up to the ladies the use of the large room of which they had taken possession. The only thing to be procured in this miserable abode was a small supply of Bananas. There was not even water, and we had to go and fetch it for ourselves from a neighbouring stream. The night was passed as well as circumstances would permit, and early on the following day the two Bolivians started. I remained behind with my fair companions, but found that they were determined not to proceed till they had received a change of raiment. They urged me, therefore, to press forward to Panama and send them succour; which I consented to do, and immediately set

VOL. I.

E

out on my travels. The road lay on a gradual ascent, and I found myself by degrees emerging from the forest, the clearage becoming everywhere more conspicuous, as large rents of earth with variegated strata occasionally met the eye. I turned upon my saddle to take a view of this little barrier between the two oceans, and look over a broad expanse of wood, undulating with the retiring valleys or rising in majesty over the brow of some lofty hill. Fresh foliage flourished everywhere, and many a lovely flower was seen loading with its rich perfume the balmy breeze.

Advancing on my route, I gained a prominence whence I witnessed one of those manifest panoramas which charm the senses and fill the mind with delight and astonishment. It was on this very spot that, centuries before, after days of toil and disappointed hopes, Pizarro saw for the first time the vast expanse of the beauteous Pacific. Low down beneath me, like a fairy isle reposing on the waters, on whose blue and glassy surface it stood out, reflected in all its loveliness, lay the graceful little peninsula on which stands the town of Panama. Cultivated lands on

both sides of the way, which marked my progress as I descended from the heights, proclaimed my near approach to the abode of man. Groups of cottages, with pretty little gardens attached, soon came into view. Then I encountered gangs of prisoners under the custody of their guards, busily employed in repairing the highroad; and soon after a sort of boulevards through which I passed announced my entrance into the city of Panama. The streets, as I passed along, appeared to be composed of houses of a very antiquated construction; in many instances shattered and displaced by the numerous earthquakes that visit the locality. The shops displayed every possible variety of French goods, and trades of all denominations seemed in a thriving condition; the bustle and business-like appearance of the town being mich increased by droves of heavily-laden mules continually passing up and down the streets. After a while I reached an hotel, kept by a German, a lame man, and where everything is conducted after the American fashion.

I obtained a commodious sleeping apartment, taking my meals at the general table