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CHAPTER VI.

Route to Sorata-La Catea-Ancoma - Capaguaya→ Bridge of Quilapitune-Joya-Tipuani. Its produc tions and natural advantages. Description of the town. Gold mines in the neighbourhood. portant mines in the district-Guanay.

Less im

THE road from La Paz to Sorata is continued along a plain for nine or ten leagues, having the range of the Cordilleras at a distance of a league or two on the right hand the whole of the way. On the left hand the plain extends very far, the Corracora range forming the background. As you approach a mass of rock that rises suddenly out of the level, the small town of Las Pienas strikes upon the view. It contains a population of from 250 to 300 inhabitants. After passing several well-cultivated fields of wheat and barley,

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amongst which a number of haciendas are prettily situated, the road for a league or two gradually ascends. When the eminence is gained, the snow-capped peak of the majestic Illampi is seen soaring above the clouds in awful grandeur, distinguished in extent and elevation from its compeers in the mighty chain of which it forms a part.

As the traveller passes onward, the view of this snowy range is occasionally intercepted by a succession of high bluffs, but the sudden prospect which is afforded to him every now and then, as some opening or chasm reveals the distant scenery beyond, charms and delights his senses by its terrible sublimity. Soon afterwards scenes of a different character attract his attention. After crossing the river Alsa, and ascending the opposite embankment, the great Lake of Tiquicaca will appear before him, spreading its even and placid surface for a considerable distance. At Tiaguanaco, on this lake, are preserved the famous ruins of the palace of the Incas, imparting to the spot, already so abundant in natural beauties, the additional interest of historical association.

After descending by a circuitous route for

about half a league, the town of Sorata is seen embosomed in a deep cabrada, which presents a valley of a most picturesque description; its gentle undulations, verdant with rich and luxuriant cultivation, contrasting well with the bleak and snowy peaks seen in the distance. This beautiful valley is entered by means of a rude bridge, consisting of nothing but a large rough stone thrown across the river of Sorata, which winds its quiet course almost imperceptibly in this secluded region. A neat house has been built near the spot, and belongs to Senor Yldefonzo Villarnil. Half a league further, on a gentle ascent, stands the town of Sorata. It possesses little attraction for strangers, the Plaza presenting a very lonely aspect, although, from the appearance of some of the dwellings, they seem to be inhabited by persons of the first respectability. It is said that its inhabitants are noted for their kindness and hospitality. I cannot speak from experience, as, not being desirous of availing myself of their assistance, I had no opportunity of putting their reputation to the test.

After leaving Sorata, there is an ascent of about three leagues, till you arrive at a place

called La Catea, at the foot of the mountain Illampi, where there is a house built for the accommodation of the major-domo or administrator of a large hacienda. At this point of the journey, travellers generally rest awhile, to make tight the girths of their beasts of burden, and to see that the whole of their equipage is in good order, ere they make the commencement of the long and toilsome ascent of the extensive range of the Cordilleras.

From La Catea to Ancoma, which lies on the other side of the mountain, is a distance of five leagues. At the latter place are the remains of an Indian village, and, to judge from the ruins which time has left, evidently a place well inhabited, and of considerable importance.

At Capaguaya there opens to the astonished traveller a scene truly wonderful, and to which no description whatever can do adequate justice.

On both sides of a deep cabrada rise stupendous mountains, o'ertopping the very clouds as they appear to vie with each other in their upward extent. In the midst of all this sublime magnificence nature has not neglected

the favoured spot which is here enclosed. It abounds in a most luxuriant vegetation; woods of the most beautiful and varied kinds are here produced in great quantity. Flowers and plants, too, render the air fragrant with their balmy odours. This little oasis presents great charms to the senses, where all around, though terribly grand, is of a sterile and less smiling character. From Capaguaya there is the distance of one league to the river and bridge of Quilapitune. The descent at this place is one of the most extraordinary and terrific which it is possible for the imagination to picture. Nature, in some of her wayward moods, seems determined to daunt curiosity and stem the current of enterprise; but man, bold and resolute, sets dangers at defiance. In the enjoyment of bodily vigour, and the exercise of his highest prerogative, a reasoning mind, he learns to overcome seeming impossibilities, and perseveres in spite of every obstacle in the pursuit of pleasure or of wealth.

Such were my thoughts as I looked upon the scene and witnessed the preparations that were made for our progress under the difficult