Jottings from Germany.

By F. R. G. S.

CHAPTER IV.

I was reminded next morning of a custom which, to Englishmen, must seem extremely strange. While yet in my room, the porter came in with the Frenden Zettel, a paper furnished to hotel-keepers by the police for their customers to fill up. You have to write your full name, your business, your place of abode; whether you have a passport, why you are travelling, what town you last left, and whither you are going. It would be interesting to know how far this plan succeeds in furnishing information that is really useful to the authorities.

On the way to the Galluskirche I bought a view of the town. This church is an old one, and chiefly famous as being that in which John Huss, the Bohemian martyr, preached. His pulpit is still there, but possesses no artistic interest. There is a statue of the martyr in the church. The front of the Teyn Church is spoilt by being completely blocked up with little houses. This you often find to be the case even with the finest cathedrals, as, for instance, those at Antwerp, Cologne, and Ulm. It is a great pity, as it takes away from the effect the front is intended to have.

This church completing my catalogue of objects of interest to be visited in Prague, I was at liberty now to depart as soon as possible; so I got a good breakfast in a cafe, and then packed up and paid my bill, Although, as a rule, prices are moderate enough on the Continent, in most of the hotels a very exorbitant charge is made for such little items as candles and soap. For instance, at Vienna the amount charged in the bill by the landlord (and scratched out, to his indignation, by me), was forty-four kreutzers (or 9d.) per night. At Prague it was 8d. This I saved by buying a candle about every five or six days at some shop for a little more than one penny. By thus saving where I could I had all the more money to spend on things that were more worth 9d. than a tallow candle.

Walking now to the railway station, I hired a porter to trundle my canoe down to the river. I found the boat standing on end in the luggageroom, the first time she had been in such an unnautical position.

She was speedily released from it now, and taking her to the bank, I launched her at once upon the Moldau. Prague is situated at a considerable distance from the source of this river, which is not of great extent; indeed, a few hours' paddle during the afternoon of that day brought the canoe and its occupant to the place where the waters of the Moldau are merged in those of the Elbe. A village, celebrated for its excellent vines, occupies a lofty eminence immediately opposite the confluence of the two streams; and here, as by this time the evening was far advanced, I tied my boat up to some floating baths, and found a comfortable Traveller's Rest at the top of the hill.

I slept soundly here till seven o'clock, when I was awakened by my landlord bringing me some of my linen which had been washed overnight. This washing overnight, which is done at any hotel, is very convenient to the tourist, as it saves taking two sets of clothes. My bill was very reasonable, the bedroom, with two candies, being only one shilling! (Would that English hotel-keepers could be got to follow this excellent example!) It was just eight o'clock when I set off. On the way from the town to the water one can see very distinctly the two rivers as unblending they flow together onwards. It is many miles before they mix. Some people in a ferry were greatly interested in me as I passed, and all rushing to one side, nearly tipped their boat over. The cliffs were here of red and white sandstone, and very high.

The first town of importance was Raudnitz, whose name I learnt from seeing it marked upon the railway station. Here there is a large building, the castle of the Princes of Lobkowitz, who are dukes of this town. The river continued very calm, and I passed four or five large barges and rafts. When we were all merely drifting with the stream, I found that these heavier boats, having greater weight and a larger surface to be acted upon by the water, could travel nearly half as fast again as my tiny craft. The bargees are always very friendly, and many a lively chat I had with them. There are weirs on the Elbe of a very sensible sort, being built only halfway out into the river-therefore not impeding its navigation. There are also plenty of water-mills, which must drive a good trade here, as there is plenty of corn to grind. The rafts here are of immense lengthsome of them, roughly estimated, as much as 300 or 400 feet. They go winding along the river like snakes. Most of the barges carry three men and a boy. In coming up the river they are pulled by two horses (which live on board when not wanted), and if there is a favourable wind a sail is used as well.

While making these comments I had been going westward, but at length turned to the north. And now I had dreadfully hard work of it. There was a strong north wind, and that coming athwart of the stream created large waves. In fact, it was quite like being at sea, and my little boat was tossed about, surmounting one and plunging under another, so that it required a good deal of care to keep her head to the waves, and not get broadside on. I was delighted with the admirable way in which she behaved; for during five miles of this at that time, and about three miles afterwards, she did not ship a single spongeful of water. The bargees and those on the shore looked with redoubled astonishment when they saw me still holding on my way through such heavy water. Hard work it was: but, persevering in it, at length we got under the lee of a mountain, and the water became comparatively calm.

And now I came to the entrance of the Erz Mountains. Even from a distance I had seen the splendid peaks towering far above the surrounding land. There was one basalt mountain which had for two

days been in sight, standing solitary in the midst of a wide plain. It is named George's Mountain, and has some ruin on the top. The vines here are very rich, and innumerable are the vineyards. Each contains its vault, entered through a little door in the hill-side. The district through which I passed produces some good wine, known as the Melniker-so called after Melnik, the village where I stayed a night. About four o'clock we came to the picturesque town of Leitmeritz, whose cathedral and castle stand conspicuously forth. There the two banks are connected by a bridge, and I felt sorely tempted to put up here. But it was still too early; so, though with some regret, I pushed on, thinking it best to get through as much as I could at the beginning of my journey, as I did not know how many hindrances might afterwards occur that would make me glad of the extra distance now accomplished.

Now came another rough stage, during my course through which I caught up and passed three barges, whose captains were keeping them with long poles from being blown on to the shore. While passing them I saw some smoke round the corner, and expected to see a train come along the bank; what was my surprise then to find myself nearly run down by a steamer! I was transfixed for the moment, as I had been most positively informed that they did not begin running before Aussig, some miles further on. However, there she was, and I had to get out of the way, and then for a time roll about in her swell. The Meissen, as she was called, only had about twelve passengers on board, so I suspect the journey between Aussig and Leitmeritz is not very profitable.

Shortly after this episode, as the sun had gone in and rain looked imminent, I drew up about six o'clock at a village called Bauschowitz. It was a curious out-of-the-way place to be compelled to stop a Sunday at, but the landlord of the homely inn did his best to make me comfortable. No meat was to be had, but I made up for the deficiency by polishing off six eggs. These I had to hold in my fingers, as in such a place who ever heard of an egg-cup? My fat host sat down by my side, and listened to the history of the canoe, so oft repeated at every inn. The bedroom, though small, was clean; I was allowed no washing water, and had to perform my ablutions in the river. There were three beds, consisting each of three huge pillows and an immense stuff counterpane. As it was still early when I had done tea, I occupied the rest of the evening in making notes. When lights were brought in, everybody wished the others Guten Abend (good evening), and when anyone entered the hotel, the landlord's welcome greeted him (Seien Sie wilkommen).

The position of women in Germany is much below their level in England. In Bohemia, at any rate, they do pretty nearly all the hard work, while their lords occupy the day in smoking and drinking. I have even seen them employed in building houses. An American, at Vienna, said to me, "I saw to-day a woman pulling a very heavy load, and two men walking after the cart, each with a hand laid lazily on, but not assisting. Now I

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come from the Southern States, and have seen a good deal of slavery; but never yet did I see a woman pulling so heavy a load, even in America."

There is no Protestant church known of anywhere in the district; so next day I had my own little service in the afternoon, realizing in my solitude as perhaps I had never done before, the gracious blessing of the omnipresent heavenly Father. At half-past twelve I had my dinner (Mittags), after which I was ferried across the river, and after a climb of an hour and a half arrived at the top of one of the highest summits hereabouts. I was rewarded by a most splendid view of fields and forests, peaks and mountain ranges. I had no idea the Elbe possessed such scenery. It is really magnificent. There I took out my Testament, read three or four chapters from the 1st of Corinthians, and sang some hymns, in remembrance of those at home. I stayed up at the top of this mountain for some time, watching the river and the railway trains below, till, when evening drew near, I came down from my elevation, having to scramble as best I could over the face of the basaltic rocks; and after a long walk by the side of the river, again reached the ferry, which took me across to Bauschowitz.

It was my experience that on Sunday evenings the Germans congregate in larger numbers than usual in the public-houses. From four o'clock till eleven the inn was filled with respectable men, who spent their whole evening in drinking, smoking, and playing cards. Every one I met was much surprised at my total abstinence. I am sure I used often to think this was a very good thing for my head as well as my pocket, for they would both have been considerably lighter had I complied with all the requests I had to drink "just a glass." Skittles also appears to be a very favourite method-especially with the younger portion of the community-of killing time. All the evening is spent in this amusement, but I believe there is no gambling connected with it.

A foreigner is treated with great respect in these little villages. During the evening the landlord intimated in a whisper that the schoolmaster would like to speak to me. So I had a conversation with him on various subjects; and after a long roundabout, he begged, as a particular favour, that I would give him one of the steel nibs which, through the landlord, he had learnt I possessed. I made him a present of a couple, and he went away rejoicing.

Here I had no reason to complain of high prices. When I came down in the morning I called for my bill. On looking through it, I found that the charge for my bed per night had been 4d. This was not excessive, certainly, and the other charges were equally moderate; the whole bill-for two nights' lodging and five meals—only amounting to 2s. 11d. On the strength of this I ordered a breakfast, knowing that I could not elsewhere have one so cheap. Then I went down to my boat, and was soon occupied in drinking in the fine scenery of the Saxon Switzerland.