CABOBS.

RAPACITY OF THE SULTAN.

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species of soft cake, toasted, and soaked in gravy, or with milk, water, parsley, and garlic, brought all together in a large bowl. The Turks eat it with their fingers; we had forks: they were, however, so dirty, that we quickly abandoned them for the Oriental method. This is a capital dish, with the single exception of the garlic. A glass of cold water, and a pipe at the nearest coffee shop, finished our repast, and we then went to a rich Greek merchant's strong room, to see some amber mouth-pieces; and he certainly did shew us a splendid collection, valued at 200,000 piastres. On returning to his shop, when about to pay him a large sum on account of my purchases, he requested me not to do so there, but accompany him to a more convenient situation, lest the Turks should observe that he was receiving money. Both Armenians and Greeks most anxiously conceal their wealth, as it might subject them to be pillaged by the Sultan, either directly, or through the extortions of his tax gatherers.

Sunday, 12th. This afternoon I visited the Valley of Sweet Waters; an appellation conferred on it by the Franks, instead of its proper name, Keathana, or 66 paper manufactory." Greeks, Armenians, and Turks make parties on Sundays and holidays to this retired and beautiful pro

menade, where they dine and pic-nic. In proceeding thither, our caique passed the Arsenal, and we saw one line-of-battle ship afloat, and nearly ready to join the fleet, another on the stocks, and two frigates in a forward state. The American builder, at present at the head of the dock-yard, has built a range of very neat workshops and stores; and great activity characterises the whole department. In passing up, I saw the remains of the old palace of Theodorus, on one side of which is the Jewish cemetery, extending an immense distance, but without a single tree; and the grey head-stones, thickly strewed over the inclosure, look as if they had fallen from heaven in a shower. A prettily situated village, with its Turkish burying-ground, is on the opposite side; there cypresses cast their mournful shade upon the tombs of the departed Mahomedans, and numerous parties had landed there from their caiques, and were regaling themselves under the large trees, where any happened to border the river. On arriving, we found the landing-place thronged with boats, and the walks crowded by visitors. Sultan Selim erected a palace here, which he intended should resemble that of Versailles. His ambassador, on returning from Paris, had brought back some views of that splendid abode of the

PALACE. -TURKISH HORSES.

69

French monarchs; and Selim, struck by its magnificence, determined to build a kiosk in imitation of it. Accordingly he changed the river into a straight canal; formed avenues, which were planted with long lines of trees; contrived waterfalls, and laid out a beautiful park. The trees have grown up to a magnificent size, and cast a pleasant shade over the walks and water; but the deserted palace is fast falling to decay, and the park is frequented only in the spring. Here the Sultan's horses are sent to graze; and their visit is celebrated with great pomp on St. George's day (Old Style), when they come. in procession, and to each of them is allotted a place in the park, in which they are picketed after the fashion usual in the East. The tents pitched near them are occupied by Bulgarians, whose duty it is to watch the animals night and day; and, perhaps, a more magnificent collection of fine horses was never seen feeding together, or in an equally beautiful spot. Here were assembled parties of all nations. Crowds of Turkish women, closely veiled, sat under the trees, listening to the performances of itinerant musicians and dancers, whose instruments were fiddles, dulcimers, and tambourines. The singing consists solely in dwelling a considerable time on a single note, with the mouth wide open, the

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TURKISH AMUSEMENTS.

head thrown back, and the eyes half shut; then, suddenly changing to another tone, about half a dozen words are strung together, and a sort of dialogue, in recitative, is kept up by the performers. In one direction, a conjurer is seen exhibiting his feats of manual dexterity, surrounded by a motley gaping crowd; —in another, a storyteller exercises the risible faculties of the sedate Turk, as well as of the merry laughter-loving Greek. A string of Armenian women approach, walking two and two with slow solemn steps, and followed by a slave carrying a basket of refreshments. Behind these come a party of gaily dressed Greeks of Pera, laughing and joking, the very personification of merriment; while their more stately country-woman of the Fanal, moves majestically along in another direction, with the pride of a thousand years of ancestry, conspicuous in her air and carriage, and all the consciousness of perfect classic beauty, in her form and face. Nor does she omit to display her delicate foot with its stocking of snowy white, and neat morocco shoe. Under the shelter of yonder magnificent plane trees, stands an erraba or Turkish carriage, in which the Sultan's sister and a large party of female slaves are seated, eating mahalabé and drinking sherbet, while they enjoy the busy scene before them. The erraba has no springs,