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baldness, as those ingredients would supply Oily. Your hair is very dry, sir. to the blood the materials necessary for the
Oh ! indeed production of hirsute growths. Those who Oily. Our Vegetable Extract moistens it. have bad taste enough to obliterate with hair
Jones. I like it dry. dye the silvery livery of age should at least
But, sir ! the bair when dry keep in mind the horrible position in which Turns quickly gray.
Jones. Mr. Tittlebat Titmouse found himself, whose
That color I prefer. carrots were turned into a lively green; they And baldness will ensue.
Oily. But hair, when gray, will rapidly fall off, should also be informed that nitrate of silver
I would be bald. is the chief ingredient of all the preparations,
Oily. Perhaps you mean to say you'd like a which in most cases act by entirely altering
wig. the cortical portion of the hair.
We've wigs so natural they can't be told Once a month, at shortest, we of the male From real hair. sex are, by the exigencies of fashion, obliged Jones.
Deception I detest. to submit our heads to the tender mercies of
[Another pause ensues, during which the executioner. Swathed in wrappers of
Oily blows down JONES' neck, and calico, the head fised by a neckful of torment
relieves him from the linen wrapper ing short hairs, a man is planted like an un
in which he has been enveloped durfortunate wicket, and bowled at by the ab
ing the process of hair-cutting, horred barber with pomatum-pots, essences,
Oily. We've brushes, soaps, and scent, of tinctures, and small talk.
Our friend Punch, every kind.
Jones. I see you have. who seems to have suffered from this martyr
(Pays 6d.) I think
you 'll find that right. dom, recommends a very neat style of batting,
Oily. If there is nothing I can show you, sir. or rather of blocking the balls, as thus -- Jones. No: nothing. Yet — there may be Scene— A Barber's Shop. Barber's men en
something, too, gaged in cutting hair, making wigs, and That you may show me. other barbaresque operations.
Name it, sir.
The door. [Erit JONES.
Oily (to his man). That's rum customer at Jones. I wish my hair cut.
any rate, Oily.
Pray, sir, take a seat. Had I cut him as short as he cut me,
During the following dialogue Oily But if kind friends will all our pains requite,
continues cutting Jones' hair. Wo’ll hope for better luck another night. Oily. We've had much wet, sir.
[Shop-bell rings and curtain falls. Jones.
Very much indeed. Oily. And yet November's early days were Touching upon the subject of applications fine.
for nourishing the hair, we must not omit the Jones. They were.
most important and imposing, though some Oily. I hoped fair weather might have people imagine perfectly apocryphal, conlasted us
tributors — Bears. We know Bruin has of Until the end.
late been declared a humbug, and there is but Jones. At one time - 80 did I.
too prevalent an opinion abroad that he does Oily. But we have had it very wet.
not let his genuine grease flow for the benefit Jones.
of mankind as freely as barbers would have us [.A pause of some minutes.
believe from the announcement we so often see Oily. I know not, sir, who cut your hair last
back streets of another bear to be killed." But this I sny, sir, it was badly cut :
After full inquiry, however, we find that Bruin No doubt 't was in the country.
still bleeds without murmuring, for an unJones.
No! in town! grateful public. During the winter months Oily. Indeed! I should have fancied otherwise. upwards of fifty bears yield up the ghost in Jones. 'Twas cut in town and in this very this 'metropolis alone, and they are we find
very regular passengers between the ports of Oily. Amazement ! but I now remember well. St. Petersburg and London. The destiny of We had an awkward new provincial hand, these creatures affords a singular instance of A fellow from the country. Sir, he did
the manner in which extremes meet — the More damage to my business in a week
shaggy denizen of a Russian forest having at Than all my skill can in a year repair.
last the honor of yielding up his precious fat He must have cut your hair. Jones (looking at him). No.- was yourself. irresistible Puseyite. If Ursa Major could
to make glossy and smooth the ringlets of an Oily. Myself! Impossible! You must mistake.
only know his distinguished future ! Jones. I don't mistake – 't was you that cut
In order to combat the growing scepticism
as to " hairdressers' bears," a worthy son of (A long pause, interrupted only by the the craft in the neighborhood of St. Giles' clipping of the scissors.
Church was long in the habit, when he
slaughtered a Muscovite, of hanging him by the dark ages, was very much respected; and chains out of the second-floor window, with at the beginning of the French monarchy the an inscription to the effect that customers people chose their kings by the length of their bringing their own gallipots might cut the fat locks. In our own island it was equally out for themselves.
esteemed ; and so far from its being conThe history of the coiffure commenced, we sidered a mark of effeminacy to carefully suppose, when Eve, first gazing on a brook tend it, we are told that the Danish officers (not far from the Tree), discovered the di- who were quartered upon the English in the shevelled condition of her head-gear. As far reign of Ethelred the Unready won the hearts back as we have any records of man, we find of the ladies by the length and beauty of their a more or less elaborate fashion of dressing hair, which they coinbed at least once a-day. the hair. As we have said before, the The clergy seem to have been the only class Nineveh statues and relievos show us how of men who wore the hair short, and this they justly the old llebrew prophets describe and did as a kind of mortification. Not content rebuke the dandyism of Sennacherib's captains with exercising this virtue themselves, howand counsellors. A modern Truefitt with all lever, they atteinpted to impose it upon the his skill must wonder as he gazes upon those laity. Thus St. Anselm fulminated orders exquisite plaitings, and bossings, and curlings against long hair, both in England and France. which extended over the beard as well as the There was a kind of hair which received the head of the Assyrian. A glimpse at the wig honor of a special canon denouncing it. This found in the temple of Isis at Thebes, and hair, crisped by art, was styled by them the now, as has also been mentioned, among the malice of the Devil. The following represents glories of the Museum, proves that the - in modernized forın, of course -- the terins Fgyptians, of even an earlier epoch, probably, in which the French bishops anathematized were most studious of their toilet. The it :Greeks, however, with their innate love of the beautiful, carried the arrangement of the
Prenant un soin paternel de punir, autant hair to the highest point of artistic excellence. qu'il est à propos, ceux qui portent des cheveux The marbles which have come down to us
frisés et bouclés par artifice, pour faire tomber testify to this perfection, and after a lapse of dans le piége les personnes qui les voient, nous eighteen hundred years all the nations of modesteinent, en sorte qu'on ne remarque plus
les exhortons et leur enjoignons de vivre plus Christendom, discarding their own hideous
en eux aucuns restes de la malice du diable. Si devices, have returned with more or less quelqu'un pèche contre ce canon, qu'il soit exscrupulousness to the models so bequeathed. communié ! The Roman dames speedily overlaid the simplo beauty of the Greek mode, piled upon their Indeed, so many and such complicated and heads imitations of castles and crowns, hoisted contradictory ordinances were issued by like their hair in intricate wreaths, and knotted it authority about the seventh and eighth cenwith a tiresoine elaborateness. The men gen- turies, that some wag suggested that the erally showed better taste and continued to young fellows should continue to wear their sport sharp crisp locks after the manner of hair long until the church had settled what "the curled Antony," sometimes with the short hair really was. In England the clergy addition of the beard, sometimes without it. did not confine themselves merely to denouncBy and by, however, among other signs of ing the flowing tresses of the nobility; imdecadence, the simple male coiffure was pregnated with the practical turn of mind of thrown aside for more luxurious fashions, and the country, they acted as well as talked. the Emperor Commodus for one is said to have Thus Serlo, a Norman prelate, preaching powdered his hair with gold.
before Henry II. and his court, brought the Outside of Rome, long hair was generally whole party to such a state of repentance prevalent among freeinen. The slaves were respecting the profligate length of their locks, invariably cropped, and Cæsar relates that he that they consented to give them up, wherealways ordered the populations of the prov- upon the crafty churchman pulled a pair of incos he had conquered to share off their hair shears out of his sleeve, and secured his as a sign of their subjection. In the decline victory by clearing the. royal head in a of the empire, when any of these provinces twinkling. Such occasional results of pious revolted, the insurgent captains directed the impulse were, however, of little avail; on the masses to wear their hair long again, as a whole, the abomination remained throughout signal of recovered freedom. Thus the hair- the early reigns of both France and England crops of whole countries were alternately mown quite triumphant. In Richard II.'s time the and allowed to grow like so many fields at the inen as well as the women confined the hair command of the husbandman - the most im- over the brow with a fillet. What the clergy, portant of facts political being indicated — with all their threats of excommunication and (we despise the vile imputation of a pun) -promises of paradise, could not effect in a by the state of the poli. Long hair, during series of ages, was at last brought about by an
accident. Francis I., having been wounded of the barber for having to make him such a
The virulence with which the Puritans de-
With the renewed triumph of long hair of the hard expression of features, which the beard gradually shrank ; first assuming especially marks the female heads of Henry a forked appearance, then dwindling to a peak, VIII.'s great painter, was owing to the with and ultimately vanishing altogether. The drawal of the softening influence of the hair. female coiffure of the Stuart period was pecuThe close cropping of the gentlemen, on the liarly pleasing: clustering glossy curls, which other hand, gave them a virile aspect which were sometimes made soft and semi-transpaespecially suited with the reforming spirit of rent by a peculiar friz, gave life and movethe age. As the hair shortened, the beard inent to the face ; whilst a pretty arrangewas allowed to flow. Indeed, this compensa- inent of loops hung like a fringe across the tory process has always obtained ; in no age,
forehead, and added a great air of quaintness we think, have the hair and beard been to the whole expression. allowed to grow long at the same time.
But how shall we approach with sufficient Shakspeare was constantly alluding to the awe the solemo epoch of perukes! It is true beard. In his day this term included the we have sufficient evidence that the Egypt of three more modern subdivisions of beard, Pharaoh was not ignorant of the wig- the moustache, and whisker — they were all then very corpus delicti is familiar to our eyes worn in one. “ Did he not wear a great and many busts and statues in the Vatican round beard like a glover's paring-knile?" have actually marble wigs at this hour upon asks one of his characters, clearly alluding to them clearly indicating the saine fact in the the extent of cheek it covered. In a word, days of imperiul Roine. But, apart from these the period par excellence of magnificent barbes very ancient matters, which are comparatively comprised the end of the sixteenth and the new discoveries, hitherto our attention ha's beginning of the seventeenth century — and, been claimed by the simple manipulations of as a matter of course, there was at the same the barber; we now enter upon a period time manifested the germ of that party which when the dressing of hair rises into a real gave a politico-religious character to the hair science, and the perruquier with a majestic of the revolutionary epoch. The Cavaliers bearing takes the dignity of a professor. To began to restore long locks early in the reign France, of course, we owe the reinvention of Charles I.; the Puritans, so far from adopt- and complete adoption of a head-dress which ing the fashion, polled even closer than before, sacrificed the beauty of nature to the delicaand at last came to rejoice in the cognomen of cies of art. The epidemic broke out in the Roundheads. Between these two grand ex- reign of Louis XIII. This prince never from tremes, however, there were innumerable his childhood cropped his hair, and the peruke other fashions of wearing the hair, the minor was invented to enable those to whom nature ensigns, we suppose, of trimming sectaries. had not been so bountiful in the item of flow. Dr. Hall, who published a little work in 1643, ing locks to keep themselves in the mode ** On the Loathsomnesse of Long Hair,” ex- brought in by their royal master. In Engclaims
land the introduction of these portentous headdresses is well marked in Pepys' Diary. I'n
der date November 3, 1663, he says — How strangely do men cut their hairs — some all before, some all behind, some long round Home, and by and bye comes Chapman, the about, their crownes being cut short like cootes perriwigg-maker, and upon my liking it (the or, popish priests and friars ; some have long wig), without more ado I went up, and then he locks at their cares, as if they had foure eares, cut off my haire, which went a little to my heart or were prickeared ; some have a little long lock at present to part with it ; but it being over, and onely before, hanging downe to their noses, like my perriwigg on, I paid him 31., and away went the taile of a weasall ; every man being made a he with my own haire to make up another of; foole at the barber's pleasure, or making a foole and I by and bye weut abroad, after I had caused
all my maids to look upon it, and they concluded The natural vanity of the fair sex struggled it do become me, though Jane was mightily with more or less success against the loss of troubled for my parting with my own hair, and their own hair, but they managed to friz and 80 was Besse. November 8, 1663. Lord's Day. — To church, ribbons that it at lengh excelled the male
build this up with such piles of laco and where I found that my coming in a perriwigs peruke. In 1760, when they had reached a did not prove so strange as I was afraid it would; truly monstrous altitude, one Legros had the for I thought that all the church would presently extraordinary impudence to hint that the have cast their eyes upon me, but I find no such things.
things was getting beyond a joke, and pro
posed a return to the" coiffure à la Grecque.” From this last extract it would appear, that For a moment the fair mob of fashion listened, in the beginning the peruke, made as it was and the hair-dressers trembled, for well they from the natural hair, was not very different knew that, if the women hesitated, the mode, froin the Cavalier mode. The imagination of like their virtue, would be lost. Accordingly France speedily improved, however, upon poor they combined with immense force against old Daine Nature. Under Louis XIV. the size Legros, instituted a lawsuit, and speedily to which perukes had grown was such, that crushed him. This momentary blight rethe face appeared only as a small pimple in the moved, the female head-dress sprang up still midst of a vast sea of hair. The great archi- more madly than before, and assumed an abtect of this triumphant age of perukes was struseness of construction hitherto unexone Binette, an artist of such note and conse- ampled. The author of the “ Secret Memoirs" quence that without him the king and all his relates that Queen Marie Antoinette herself courtiers were nothing. His equipage and invented a coiffure which represented all the running footinen were seen at every door, and refinements of landscape gardening — " des he might have adopted without much assump- collines, des prairies émaillées, des ruisseaux tion the celebrated mot of his royal master argentins et des torrents écumeux, des jardins
-L'état c'est moi. The clergy, physicians, symétriques, et des parcs Anglais." From and lawyers speedily adopted the peruke, as the altitude of the head-dresses in 1778 it they imagined it gave an imposing air to the was found that they intercepted the view of countenance, and so indeed it must be con- spectators in the rear of thein at the Opera, fessed it did. One can never look at the por- and the director was obliged to refuse admittraits of the old bishops and judges dressed in tance to the amphitheatre to those persons the full-bottomed flowing peruke without a who wore such immoderate coiffures sort of conviction that the originals must have ceeding which reminds us of the joke of Jack been a deal more profound and learned than Reeve, who, whilst manager of the Adelphi, those of our own close-cropped age. So im- posted a notice that, in consequence of the pressed was the Grand Monarque with the crowded state of the house, gentlenen fremajestic character it lent to the face, that he quenting the pit must shave off their whiskers ! never appeared without his peruke before his Such was the art expended on these tremenattendants, and it was the necessity, perhaps, dous head-dresses, and such a detail required of taking it off at the latest moment of the in their different stages, that ladies of quality toilet, that caused him to say that no man were often under the hands of the artiste the was a hero to his valet de chambre. This entire day. Thus, when they had to attend mode grew so universal that children were entertainments on succeeding evenings, they made to submit to it, and all Nature seemed were forced to sleep in arm-chairs, for fear bewigged. The multiplicity of sizes and forms of endangering the finish of the coiffure ! becaine so numerous that it was found neces- The female head-dress, having now arrived sary to frame a new technical vocabulary, at its most Alpine elevation, suddenly toppled now in parts obscure enough even for the over and fell, by the mere uccident of the most erudite. Thus there were perruques queen's hair coming off during her accouchegrandes et petites - en folio, en quarto, en ment. The court, out of compliment to her trente-deux - perruques rondes, carrées, pin- majesty, wore the hair à l'enfant; others tues ; perruques à boudins, à papillons, à deux followed, and the fashion was at an end. et trois marteaux," &c. &c.
And it was well it was 80. It required all the For a long time after this invention the art of our own Sir Joshua to bring this strange head-dress retained the natural color of the mode within the sphere of pictorial art. hair, but in 1714 it became the fashion to And yet in real life the white powder was not have wigs bleached ; the process, however, without its merit. It brought out the color was ineffectual, and they speedily turned an of the cheeks, and added brilliancy to the ashen gray; to remedy which defect hair-eyes ; in short, it was treating the face like a powder was invoked — another wondrous de- water-colored landscape, mounting it on an vice which speedily spread from the source ocean of white, which brought out by contrast and centre of civilization over the rest of all its natural force and effect. Few can Europe.
have forgotten how many of our beauties
gained by figuring in powder at the court white, pretty ample, and terminating in pigfancy balls of a few seasons back.
tail, for the Lord Mayor's Feast or Blooinsbury The male peruke, startled, it would appear, Drum. The epoch' of Reform witnessed at by the veheinent growth of the feinale coiffure, once the abandonment of Bloomsbury and the stood still, grew gradually more calm and final abolition of these judicial ensigns. The reasonable, and at last, spurning any further last adherent was, we believe, the excellent contest with its rival, resigned altogether — Mr. Justice James Alan Park — latterly disand the natural hair, powdered and gathered tinguished accordingly as Bushy Park. The in a queue, at first long, then short, and tied general disappearunce of the episcopal peruke with ribbon, became the mode to rout which befell at the same era of change and aların — it required a revolution ; in '93 it fell to- being warned to set their house in order, they gether with the monarchy of France. In the lost no time in dealing with their heads. At world of fashion here the system stood out this day hardly one wig ever is visible even in till somewhat later — but our Gallo-maniac the House of Lords; and we must say we whigs were early deserters, and Pitt's tax on doubt whether most of the right reverend hair-powder in 1795 gave a grand advantage fathers have gained in weight of aspect by to the innovating party. Pigtails continued, this complete revolution. It has, of course, however, to be worn by the army, and those extended over all the inferior dignitaries of the of a considerable length, until 1804, when clerical order. With the exception of one they were by order reduced to seven inches ; most venerable relic which has often nodded and at last, in 1808, another order commanded in opposition to Dr. Parr's Meyve Fawna, we them to be cut off altogether. There had, do not suppose there remains one Head, with however, been a keen qualın in the “parting a wig, on the banks of either Cam or Isis. spirit” of protection. The very next day Yet people question the capacity or resolution brought a counter order : - but, to the great for internal reforms in our academical Caputs ! joy of the rank and file at least, it was too The natural hair, after its long imprison. late — already the pigtails were all gone. ment, seemed for a moment to have run wild. The trouble given to the military by the old | The portraits of the beginning of the century, mode of powdering the hair and dressing the and even down to the time of Lawrence's sutail was inmense, and it often led to the inost premacy, show the hair falling thickly upon ludicrous scenes. The author of the “ Cos- the brow, and flowing, especially in the young, tume of the British Soldier” relates that on over the shoulders. Who can ever forget, that one occasion, in a glorious dependency of has once seen it, the portrait of young Lindley ours, a field-day being ordered, and there not in the Dulwich Gallery by Sir Thomas that being sufficient barbers in the garrison to at- noble and sad-looking brow, so softly shaded tend all the officers in the morning, the with luxuriant curls ? At the present moment juniors must needs have their heads dressed almost every lady one meets has her bair arover night, and, to preserve their artistic ar- ranged in " bands” — nothing but bands, the rangement, pomatumed, powdered, curled, most severe and trying of all coiffures, and one and clubbed, these poor wretches were forced only adapted to the most classic style of beauty. to sleep as well as they could on their faces ! For the face with a downright good-natured Such was the rigidity with which certain pug nose, or with one that is only pleasantly remodes were enforced in the army about this iroussé, to adopt it, is quite as absurd as for an period that there was kept in the adjutant's architect to surmount an irregular Elizabethan office of each regiment a pattern of the correct building with a Doric frieze. Every physiogcurls, to which the barber could refer. nomy requires its own peculiar arrangement of
For many years every trace of powder and hair, and we only wonder that this great truth pigtail has disappeared from the parade as has ever been lost sight of. There is a kind of well as the saloon — and footmen are now the hair full of graceful waves, which in Ireland only persons who use a mode which once set is called “ good-natured hair."! There is off the aristocratic aspect of our Seymours something quite charming in its rippling line and Hamiltons. The horsehair court-wigs of across the forehead. Art has attein pted to the judges seem to be recollections of the initate it, but the eye immediately detects white perukes of the early Georgian era, but the imposture — it no more resembles the real they are far more massive and precise than thing than the set smile of the opera-dancer the old flowing head-dresses — their exact does the genuine play of the features from little curls and sternly cut brow-lines making some pleasurable einotion of tho mind. This then fit emblems of the unbending, uncom- buckled hair is, in short, the same as that depromising spirit of the modern bench. Only nounced by the early churchmen under the thirty years ago, it must be remembered, the name of the malice of the Devil, a term which it Bages of the law, even in ordinary society, sport- well deserves. There is another kind of hair ed a peculiar and marking head-gear; or rather which is inclined to hang in slender threadthere were two varieties in constant use, one like locks just on the sides of the face, allowbrief and brown for the morning, the other ling the light and shade to fall upon the white