CHAPTER XVII.

Early Autumn-Water excursion-Sand-banks-High tides-Autumnal aspect of Berezov-Solitary walk in the forest-Shamanic worshippers of larch-trees— Account of a woman who lost her way in the forest.

WITH the opening of August, the environs of Berezov assumed an autumnal air. Frost already nipped the more delicate plants, the leaves of trees were seared and yellow, and fell on the ground with the least breath of wind; the waters shrunk in volume, and the grass shrivelled. In a word, it was far advanced in autumn. It is, perhaps, as well, that summer here leaves not much to regret.

It was now much colder, especially at night; but the air was more bracing. The nights were also longer.

Autumn brought one welcome gift-the go

lubica,* a berry, exactly like our own blackberry, the szernice,t only somewhat larger. It is found in abundance in the woods. We had a dish of these berries with cream, and found their flavour very pleasant.

Madame X-- arranged a water excursion on the Soswa, and being fond of water and boating, I gladly accepted her invitation to accompany the expedition. The lady of the director of the police promised to be one of the party.

After our preparations were completed, and we were on the point of starting, we found that, in spite of all Madame X--'s exertions, no man could be secured either to steer or to row; but not in the least discouraged by this difficulty --for she never flinched from the execution of a plan on which she had fixed her mind Madame X—— decided to dispense entirely with the male sex, and engaged the services of two stout women as substitutes. I must confess for myself that I should have preferred the

*The golubica is derived from the Slavonic, golub, a dove, by which term, in popular language, everything lovely and precious is designated.

† French mirtelles.

assistance of a single man, even if he had been an Ostiak; but I would not throw cold water on the party, and I let things take their

course.

Madame X's servant, as the most experienced amongst us, was placed at the helm, while that lady and myself, with another woman, took the oars. The weather was calm, and we crossed the river in safety, and disembarked on the opposite bank, on a dry sandy spot, covered with thin grass and willows. On landing we lighted a large fire, and as we had not forgotten to bring with us a samovar, that indispensable companion of the Berezovians on every occasion, we took it from our boat, filled it with water, and waited till it was boiling on the glowing embers. Up to that moment, everything appeared favourable; but in a few minutes a swarm of mosquitoes alighted like a thick cloud on the place, attacking us with the greatest fury. Having exhausted every means of defence, I seated myself on the ground, drew my feet under me, and threw my handkerchief over my head, but though somewhat protected, the position was neither convenient nor pleasant, and I looked with impatience for our pic-nic to end.

Tea having at last been prepared, we hastily partook of it, when the things were again packed up, and we set off homeward.

Arrived in the middle of the river, we found ourselves entirely freed from the mosquitoes, and we began to have a sense of enjoyment, this being in fact the only spot where we could obtain fresh air during the sultry season. As usual Madame X-- arbitrarily assumed dictatorship on the occasion, and prevented our boat from landing at the customary place in the bay, assuring us that she knew another much shorter way, and that by rowing in that direction, we should be disembarked close to our own house. I had never much confidence in her, as I had frequent experience of the absurdity of her pretensions; but there were no means of dissuading her, and we were obliged to proceed in the direction she indicated. Meanwhile the

water having fallen low, as is commonly the case in autumn, and we not being sufficiently acquainted with the navigation, the boat stranded on a sand-bank. It was no easy task to get it afloat again and reach a deeper part of the stream. This, however, was not our last mischance. Madame X-- determined to have it

all her own way, and still persisted in carrying us home by the shortest passage; and we had not gone far when we got on another sand-bank, and we were this time several hours before we could get clear of it. The sun, indeed, was now sinking below the horizon, and we could not help murmuring at the imprudence of our obstinate guide, fearing that we should be detained on the river all night. At length Madame X consented to abdicate her authority; and profiting by our freedom we returned into the mid-channel and pushed for the usual landing, which to our great delight we soon reached, and just at twilight arrived home.

When safely seated, Madame X—— declared that it was not owing to her want of skill but to a series of extraordinary accidents, that we encountered so many unexpected obstacles during our expedition. I did not say a word in reply, but let her speak as she chose, only making a silent resolution never to venture again on any water excursion with women, unless under the protection of men. My only souvenir of the trip was miserably galled hands and an excruciating pain in all my limbs, which prevented my sleeping all the night.