CHAPTER XII.

A sudden change-Burial in the desert-Arab cemeteries-Abouhamed-Funeral games.

HITHERTO our journey had been one of the most agreeable that could be conceived. The novelty of the country, the purity of the air, the many striking objects that came under our observation, kept me in an intense state of enjoyment, and my spirits were often wild with excitement.

But there was a change coming, for which none of us was prepared, that completely

put an end to all our interest in the scenes through which we had still to pass before reaching our home.

any

My father had for some days been indisposed, but not sufficiently so as to alarm of us. On reaching Gagee, he was unable to proceed further, grew rapidly worse, and before we were fully aware of his danger, breathed his last. Private griefs shrink from publicity, and therefore I do not dwell upon them in these pages. Like Abraham, in similar circumstances, we sent to the chiefs of the village to request a place in their cemetery: expressing their sympathy with our sorrow, they immediately desired us to take our choice, and then guided us to the spot, which was about two miles from the river.

VOL. II.

It was indeed a dreary walk; the sky was dark, the wind blew the fine sand in clouds around us, and we could see only a few yards in advance. After selecting the ground, the inhabitants of the village prepared the tomb, and were found assembled near it in crowds of all ages, when we we again approached to lay the. loved form in the deep grave they had dug.

After reading the funeral-service, according to our English customs, we distributed alms, out of respect to Arab custom. With these people, charity is not confined to the moment of interment; but for months, and even years after, on Friday, (the Mahometan Sabbath), the relations of the deceased attend at the grave to keep it in repair, and give food and money to the poor, who go there as the surest place to obtain assistance;

and it is for the purpose of sheltering such persons, that the small mosques and buildings often found in such localities, are erected.

The cemeteries are always respectedindeed, are held as sacred among these wild, untutored people as among ourselves; so much so are they in public opinion, that when setting out on a journey, the Nubians frequently deposit near them their valuables. The place is not enclosed, and we often beheld in the cemeteries a collection of household goods, pitchers, &c., suspended from a tree, or laid near a grave, the vicinity of which was a sufficient protection during the absence of the owner.

During our five days' detention here, the guides had behaved very well, paying daily visits, and making kind inquiries at our tent; but now the second guide refused to

proceed without his brother, whose return was not expected in less than seven days, and even threatened to take us back to Berber, alleging, as his reason, that his engagement no longer held good. Our servants expressed their indignation at his conduct in such unequivocal terms, that his resolution, if he ever entertained it, began to waver, and it presently became evident that he had changed his mind altogether. We showed a determined indifference to his opinion; the camels were collected and brought into the encampment before dark; the packages were prepared, the burthens adjusted, and when, at sunrise, everything was ready for a start, he, without further demur, placed himself at the head of the

caravan.

Slowly and sadly we climbed the steep bank, and wound our way through the