had been occupied by the count. They were demolished immediately, and no member of the family has ever resided at the Zavod since.

About two hundred paces from the Castle stands a very fine brick tower, much out of the perpendicular; there is a subterraneous passage to it, now closed up. In this building the silver brought from the Altai was refined, and afterwards coined on the island in the lake at Tchernoistotchinsk. It is also said that the first Demidoffs concealed here the fugitives who escaped from Tobolsk and other regions of Siberia, employing them in the mines and ironworks; if true, it was a grave offence, considering the formidable injunctions of the em

peror.

To the east of the road around Mursinsk lies the region in which the following precious stones of the Oural are found-emerald, amethyst, beryl, christoberyl, topaz, rose tourmaline, and garnets; all highly interesting to the crystallographer in their natural state, and much more so to the ladies when cut into gems.

Ekaterineburg is the capital of the Oural, and, on entering the town from the north, a church and some large mansions are seen on a high hill to the left, overlooking the lake-a beautiful sheet of water, which extends several versts in a westerly direction, until hid behind the woods of Issetzskoï. One of these mansions, built by a very rich man, who accumulated his immense wealth from gold mines, is of enormous dimensions, and from its elevated situation has a most imposing effect, commanding views of the Oural far to the north and west, until lost in distant haze. The Zavod of Verkne Issetzskoï, with its churches and public buildings, stands out beautifully in the centre of the view; while in the foreground and beneath is the lake, with several public and private edifices on its shores. The gardens belonging to this mansion, with the greenhouses and hothouses, are extensive and well laid out; they are open to the public in summer, and form a pleasant promenade. Formerly there was a splendid and choice collection of plants in the greenhouses, but for many years past they have been neglected. The owner, notwithstanding his enormous wealth and elegant mansion, was banished and punished for flogging some of his people to death; another

man implicated in this crime shared the same fate. Both had risen from pea

sants.

There are many honourable exceptions to these men in Ekaterineburg-merchants and owners of mines who would do credit to any country. They have accumulated very large fortunes, and have built themselves mansions equal to any found in the best European towns; the rooms are spacious, lofty, and beautifully finished; their decorations executed with excellent taste; they are also splendidly furnished—indeed, supplied with almost every luxury, as well as comfort. With many of these fortunate persons, their mode of living equals the splendour of their habitations. Attached to most of their dwellings are large conservatories, in some of which are very choice collections of tropical plants and flowers, such as few would expect to find in so severe a climate.

Nearly in the centre of the town, a high embankment is carried across the valley of the Issetz, and at this point stand the mechanical works belonging to government. They are built upon an enormous scale, and fitted up with machinery and tools from the best makers in England. Here are found Nasmyth's steam-hammer, large lathes, planingmachines, with punching, drilling, grooving, and slotting machines for every purpose. The entire arrangement of this establishment has been carried out, regardless of expense, under the superintendence of a good practical English mechanic, who has served the government for about fifteen years. He executed the whole of the excellent machinery of the Mint, in which copper money to a large amount is coined annually, and sent into Russia. The furnace for smelting gold is in a building connected with the Mint, to which all the precious metals found in the Oural are brought. Here they are smelted and cast into bars, and sent to St Petersburg.

Near these works stands the Granilnoï Fabric-the building in which the jaspers, porphyries, aventurine, and other stones found in the Oural, are made into columns, pedestals, vases, and tables, unrivalled in workmanship, either in ancient or modern times; the lathes, saws, and polishing-machines used are turned by water-power. The whole establishment belongs to the crown, and is worked by peasants.

The jaspers are found in a great variety of colours; the most beautiful, a deep green, dark purple, dark violet, grey, and cream-colour; also a riband jasper with stripes of reddish-brown and green. The porphyries are equally fine and varied some of most brilliant colours. Orlite is also a splendid stone of a deep pink colour, with veins of yellow and black: when made into vases, it is semi-transparent. Malachite is also used in making tables, and various other articles. The vases are usually of a most classic design -this, with the rich materials in which they are executed, gives them a most magnificent effect; but to be able fully to appreciate such works, they must be seen in the splendid collections at the imperial palaces in St Petersburg. I have frequently found and painted huge masses of these splendid rocks, of which I have now seventy-two varieties.

Most magnificent jasper tables are made in this Zavod, inlaid with differentcoloured stones in imitation of birds, flowers, and foliage. In 1853 I saw one of them in Ekaterineburg on which four or five men had been employed for six years not an uncommon circumstance; indeed, some examples have occupied a longer period. The cost of labour alone in England (provided the material were found there) would effectually prevent such work ever being executed in our country. Here wages are almost nothing; I have seen a man engaged carving foliage on some of the jasper vases, in a style not excelled anywhere in Europe, whose wages were three shillings and eightpence per month, with two poods,

or thirty-six pounds, of rye-flour per month, to make into bread-meat he is never supposed to eat. I have seen another man cutting a head of Ajax, after the antique, in jasper of two colours

the ground a dark green, and the head a yellowish cream colour-in very high relief, and intended for a brooch. It was a splendid production of art, and would have raised the man to a high position in any country in Europe, except Russia. He also, poor man! received his three shillings and eight pence per month, and his bread. There are many men employed in these productions possessing great genius; were they free to use their talents for their own benefit, this country might send into civilised Europe numerous works of vast merit. A married man with a family receives two poods of black flour for his wife and one pood for each child, on which they live and look stout.

I have watched men cutting the emerald, topaz, amethyst, aquamarina, and other stones into different shapes; which they do with perfect accuracy and in good taste. Some of these brilliant gems have no doubt ere this adorned imperial majesty. These men also receive a like remuneration.

The following is the rate of wages paid to the superintendents and workmen employed in the cutting and polishing works. Two superintendents or master workmen, each of whom receives 240 roubles banco per annum (about £11 sterling), and their black flour' (rye). There are also 160 workmen employed, divided into four classes:

Ekaterineburg being the capital of the Oural, and the centre of the mining districts, here is established the Gornoïpravlania, or General Board for the Direction of the Mines; which consists of a great number of officers who live in Ekaterineburg with their families. At present the chief of the Oural is a general of artillery-most probably appointed to this position in consequence of nearly all the ironworks belonging to the crown having been employed for many years past in casting and boring large guns, casting shot and shells, and in preparing other munitions of war.

There is another general of artillery stationed in Ekaterineburg, who is independent of the chief, and holds his appointment from the Minister of War. His duty is the general supervision and a close inspection of all the guns and arms of whatever kind made in the Zavods of the Oural. This gentleman has artillery officers resident in many of the Zavods, to watch every process in the manufacture of these destructive implements.

There is also a Berg Inspector, or Chief Director of Mines-a most important office, filled during my visit by one of

the most intelligent mining engineers in the empire; not only eminent for his talents, but also for his kind disposition and gentlemanly conduct.

LIFE IN THE OURAL.

A traveller from the most civilised parts of Europe, who should come here to gratify his curiosity, would not find a very remarkable difference between the style of living in this region among the wealthy, and that of the same class in his own country. He would find the ladies handsomely clad in dresses made from the best products of the looms of France and England; and would be welcomed at the fireside, and on all occasions, with a generous hospitality seldom met with elsewhere. If asked to dinner, he would find placed on the board a repast that would not disgrace the best hotels of the same countries. Fish and game of every kind are most abundant here, and luxuries from far distant regions are not wanting. Wines of the finest quality, and in great variety, are ever found at their tables; the only drawback to comfort being the quantity of champagne the traveller is obliged to drink.

Their balls are elegant, and conducted with great propriety, and they dance well. The elder members of society spend their time at cards, risking much money in this way. It is deeply to be regretted that the young men are also much addicted to gambling-a pursuit which often ends in ruin here as elsewhere. During my stay in the Oural, a young officer shot himself on account of his losses at cards.

Even the fair sex in Ekaterineburg pass much of their time in card-playing. I am acquainted with one family where there are no less than eleven children; there is not a day in the year during which their mother spends less than five or six hours at cards, unless prevented by sickness; and when once she sits down to the card-table, husband, children, and all, are forgotten. I know another lady here, the principal business of whose life is card-playing. She has a moderate income, and passes her days and most of her nights at cards; she has her daily rounds, and goes with as much exactness to her haunts as the most punctual merchant to his office.

Ten

o'clock in the morning is her hour of business: the tables are opened and the

cards placed. If no one calls before this hour, she goes forth to her usual occupation, and seeks some one among her friends who will indulge her in a second rubber; and so the time passes until dinner. After dining she sleeps a couple of hours, and wakes quite fresh for her favourite pursuit. In the evening she has no difficulty, for many are willing to play: thus the time is spent until a late hour.

At one of the large mining towns in the Altai, there lives a man who has become rich from gold mines, and is a celebrated card-player. It is no unusual circumstance for him to visit St Petersburg; and as Ekaterineburg is about midway between the capital and his place of residence, he is sometimes obliged to stop on the way to repair carriages, after a run of more than two thousand versts

in fact, it is often absolutely necessary. This man's fame having spread far and wide, his detention in the town for the first time was an event which afforded the lady I have just alluded to the utmost delight; she could not permit such an opportunity to pass without trying a rubber with so renowned a champion. At her particular request a friend arranged that they should meet at dinner. She has been heard to say, no hours ever dragged on so slowly as on that forenoon

still the sun ran his course, and, directly dinner was over, down they sat to cards. The evening went on with varied success, the lady was enraptured, and rose from the table the winner of a large sum. She invited her opponent to play the next day; after some demur he consented, and the following day the contest was renewed, and continued until she had lost all. Nothing daunted, she urged him again to defer his journey for four-and-twenty hours, as her half-year's income would arrive by the post the following morning. But then came a difficulty about getting the money at once, as there was some formality which would delay it a day or two. After much trouble, she persuaded the person to whom it was consigned to waive the usual form, and let her have the money immediately. She got it, and so strong was her ruling passion, that every moment seemed lost until seated at the card-table. In a few hours she left it without a kopeck-her half-year's income entirely gone!

Speaking with some of the most intelligent men on this subject, their reply was, 'In England you have the daily