ly, given a facrifice to the blind fury of a mob, for his perfonal protection. The authority of this minifter (who bears round his neck the great feal of the empire) knows no limit but the fultan's will. He may put to death whom he pleases, except the Palhas, the Spahis, the janizaries and other foldiers. The fultan's fign manual indeed is neceflary for the execution of the first of these, and the consent of their commanding officers for that of the military, but neither are ever an impediment to his inclination. He commands the whole empire except in fuch things as relate to religion, and certain offices of justice. When the fultan remains at home he marches with the forces of which he is generaliffimo. He correfponds with foreign princes, their ambaffadors, &c. and anfwers them as he pleases. His falary is fmall, but the prefents and contributions of the Pafhas and Beys makes his income immenfe. The vizier Nafchangi who was ftrangled on the 26th of October 1755, had amaffed in the two months of his miniftry 100,000l. Between officers, attendants, and fervants, he has feldom lefs than 2000 perfons at his court. When he goes out on public days his ftandard-bearer carries before him on a pole topped with gold three horfe tails. The three grand Pafhas of the empire, namely of Buda, of Babylon, and of Cairo, have indeed this privilege, but all the others are confined to one. Whenever the feals are taken from him, he is either ftrangled or banished. Indeed were it not for the instability of his charge, and the bowftring, his fituation would be more defirable, as his authority is in effect more extenfive, than his fovereign's. The mufti or high priest, appointed by the fultan. He is expected to be virtuous and learned in the Alcoran. His infallibility is much more generally acknowledged by the Muffulmans than that of the pope by the Roman catholics; for his decifions are on all questions final, and nothing of moment is undertaken, unless he be confulted on it. Should his opinion, however, be adverfe to that of his mafter, he would immediately depofe him, and fupply his place with another whofe fentiments would be more accommodating to his wish. The Capoudan-paha is lord high admiral and actual commander of the fleets. The Reis-Effendi is the principal fecretary of state, and ever attendant upon the vizier to iffue out letters-patent, edicts, commiffions, &c. Befide thefe are many other great officers, fuch as the Fanifaragasì or general of the janizaries, the Beglerbeys or governors of provinces upon whom the fultan beftows the three tails, the Tefterdar or grand treasurer, Boftangi Pafha, &c. I am inclined to believe that court intrigue and cabal were never carried on with fuch effect as in the fecret mansions of the feraglio. There, they constitute the principal amufement; for by furnifhing the mind with employment, they operate as an effectual antidote against the tædium of an eternal confinement. The appointment and degradation of minifters, the government of provinces, the command of fleets and armies, are often dependant upon the will of a capricious concubine, or a mutilated flave. The houses of Conftantinople are built of wood, low and mean: the ftreets are narrow, hollow, and dirty: in every object a traveller beholds the little progrefs the Turks have made in the liberal arts, and laments that its beauty fhould be confined to its fituation. The immoderate ufe of coffee has induced the government to monopolize that article. A few days after my arrival I was taken to fee the place, in which it is prepared for ufe, and entered a large room where many were employed in clearing, baking, and pounding the berries. A cloud of duft arose from the mortars, the fragrancy of which could not I think, be exceeded by the perfumed gales of Arabia Felix. People of the fame trade in th's city generally refide in their refpective Bazars of markets markets. These Bazars are covered freets with fhops on each fide, before which the different wares are exposed to fale. The armourers, the druggifts, the furriers, and the fadlers, particularly attract the attention, from the beauty, variety, and arrangement of their goods; but thefe places being continually crowded, and the plague rife, I tremble as I admire. I have once been in the Bezestàn, where they fell the clothes of those who have died of this exterminating difeafe. It is not, as fome think, caught from the exhalation of peftiferous bodies, but by contact therefore you may fuppofe I am particularly careful among the crowds of Conftantinople. very small in circumference as to appear like folid columns. Near the top they are encircled with a rail or gallery, from which a priest with thrill voice calls the people to prayer (for they have no bells in Turkey) five times in every four and twenty hours. As their religion enjoins them to purify themfelves by ablution before they pray, there are for the purpose many noble fountains of clar water. I must confefs I was much pleafed with their manner of adoring the Almighty, because they put on an appearance in it, the very reverse of that which they generally affume, an appearance of extreme humility and mortification, turning toward the tomb of Mahomet at Mecca, and frequently bending with extended arms to the earth. The most magnificent of theíe ftructures is that of fultan Achmet, but I have enlarged fo much upon the Santa Sophia, that I think you will difpenfe with a defcription of it. Near this part of Conftantinople is a fquare tower of great height which commands a view of the whole city: a certain number of janizary centinels are ftationed on it every night to give the earlieft intelligence of fires; for as all the houfes are of wooden materials, an accident of this kind, unless timely prevented, might reduce the capital to afhes. Indeed you often read in the English papers of terrible conflagrations which happen here. They have no inns in Turkey, but houfes called Kans, or Caravanferais, erected by charitable perfons for the accommodation of the pilgrim or traveller. These are square buildings not diffimilar to our smaller quadrangles at Oxford, with galleries, into which the apartments open. I have been twice in the mofque of Santa Sophia and the other mofques. "The first time the confcientious fcruples of the keeper to admit a Jawr yielded to golden rhetoric. The fecond I accompanied the returning Bailo, Il Cavalier Guiliane, who obtained a firman, or order for admiflion, from the grand fignor. When by the direction of our conductor we had taken off our fhoes, that our unhallowed feet fhould not defile the floor, we were led by a narrow staircase to the corridor, or great gallery, in which we beheld a profufion of the finest marbles of Troy and Greece. From this place we look down upon the aisle covered with mats delicately woven, on which were companies of Turks fitting about their Imams, who expounded to them the law of their prophet. On the dome and in many other parts of the edifice, are select portions of the Alcoran, and from it innumerable small lamps depend. Adjoining to every mofque are built a certain number of minarets, from one to fix. These are lofty towers fo The walls of Conftantinople, inftead of being (as I expected) remarkable for their ftrength, are in mouldering decay. A few days ago I rode along them to the extremity of the city at the feven towers, and saw the gate of Sans Romano near the place where the troops of Mahomet broke into the city when they carried it by affault. I wished much to enter the feven towers, but could not, as Mr. Bulgakoff, the Ruffian envoy is now confined there. However, though difappointed in this attempt, I got into the flave market, but was obliged to wear a Turkish habit and a tremendous pair of whiskers, which by M wires wires were fixed between my upper teeth and lip; as in a Frank's drefs they would not fuffer me to enter. By money I perfuaded a degenerate Turk to suppress his fcruples and accompany me. There were fome very pretty flaves fitting in fheds before the houses, whom I viewed fo much, that the owner asked me fmilingly (for he did not confider me a Jawr) which I would purchase. I was fear ful of detection, but laughed and walked away. As we returned I was fhewn a room in which are eleven coffins of a late fultan's children, who were probably ftrangled. What innumerable murders has ambition inftigated in the Imperial race of the Mollems! REMARKS during a SIX WEEKS RESIDENCE in Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire, in 1792: In a Series of Letters to a Friend. LETTER I. DEAR SIR, untainted by the fteams of a brick- Oxford, August 16, 1792 and with me, no fmall one-is, that AT 6 rows In pafling the Queen's Lying. hofpital, indeed, I obferved fome new buildings, but of a more durable conftruction than thofe on the north and I left London on the 14th, and fouth fides of London. Among them, journeyed toward Oxford. Of the according to cuftom, are certain Acatwo roads, that by Henley and that demies for young ladies and gentleby Uxbridge, I preferred the latter, men.' In all new rows, as they are not as what, in the opinion of tra- called, in the vicinity of the metrovellers is the very beft, but as likely polis, there are three houfes which to afford me more novelty. By me feldom fail to form the centre and it was hitherto untrodden. If it be the two extremes; a public-house, a not the most pleasant in all refpects, chandler's fhop, and a boarding school. you approach the country fooner;.you Education has become a trade, and, fooner thake off the duft of an over- no doubt, many of those who intend grown metropolis; the fuburbs here to earn a livelihood this way, begin are narrowed, and within half an hour with a very ímall flock of requifites; (after paffing the turnpike) you in-aware that ignorance and modeft afhale a pure and fragrant air, as yet furance will, in moft cafes, fupercede 3 ability. ablity. Yet do not think me fevere. Adawn of hope' appears. You know that fome traders who began with stalls and wheelbarrows, are now opulent fhopkeepers; and who knows whether thefe fchoolmatters and miftreffes, whofe beginnings were equally unpropitious, may not, from the habit of teaching others, acquire fome knowledge themselves? At Kenfington Gravel-pits, (that field of honour to thofe gentlemen whose reputation is guided by the motion of a trigger) there are fome houses built upon what appears to have been once a very general plan; the bricks a deep red; the windows very oblong and narrow; the rooms lofty, with fomewhat of a dull, Dutch grandeur about them.-Nottingham boarding school on the left, and the Prince's military academy on the right, are objects by no means unpleafing; the fituation of the former, and the conveniencies of the latter, will readily strike the eye. They are, indeed, but trifles; yet, on first leaving the metropolis, fmall matters will attract. How many a cockney enjoys the fublimities of the Welch mountains, and the picturefque gran deur of the northern lakes between London and Hampstead! From Shepherd's-bufh, the country begins to show itself more fully. Acton contains feveral well-built, and pleasantly-fituated houses. The Wells near this place, once celebrated for their medicinal qualities, are now but little frequented. Their effect is fimply purgative, and, unless brifkly fo, I fhould prefume that the proportion of liquid to be taken in, may counteract their good effects. I was told of an orchard here, called the Devil's orchard; but as i was not able to trace his property in it, I did not ftop to examine the infernal fruit. This gentleman has the credit of performing many remarkable feats, which the infidelity of the prefent age haftens to confign to oblivion. In remote parts of the country, however, he is ftill in fome reputation as a powerful agent, and I doubt not of meeting with him in the courfe of my journey. Hanwell, which I now reached, affords little fubject for remark. It contains fome elegant houfes, with pleafure-grounds. Sion Hill, on the left, appears to advantage. Hayes is a more pleasant village; many of the houfes may be called fplendid; moft, if not all the cottages, have been lately rebuilt. This is always a favourable fymptom. Would it not be very defireable to be able to prove that the increased bulk of London is owing to its own increafing population, and the influx of foreigners, and not to the depopulation of the circumjacent villages? Viewing the fubject in another light, perhaps it may be faid, that many of the villages near London are increased by the fuperfluities of that metropolis. This is certainly the cafe to the fouth and north. London is united to Camberwell, Kennington, and Brentford, and its union with Hampstead is almost completed. Hayes church is an object worth looking at; the chancel, in particular, is finely ornamented. In the churchyard, to fave the expence of head ftones, are many wooden boards with infcriptions. This, I believe, is not very common. In Hillingdon churchyard, about two miles farther, is a remarkable yew tree; the parish books are brought in evidence that it is two hundred years old. The custom of planting them in churchyards is certainly much older. Of Great Hillingdon, Uxbridge, at which I next arrived, is a hamlet. Uxbridge is a neat and clean hamlet, or village, about a mile in length. The inns were mentioned by writers' the beginning of this century, on account of their number and goodnefs, and they yet bear a favourable report, although their number is not very great. The church has many marks of antiquity. It was built in the time of the weak and unhappy Henry VI; but the repairs have been frequent. Uxbridge is watered by the river Coln, which runs through part of Hertfordshiré and Middlelex, and empties itfelf into the Thames at Staines. Moft villagers record fome event of ancient times, honourable to their place of refid nce. A friend, with whom I breakfasted, reminded me, that the commiffioners of king Charles I, and thofe of the parliament, held a long conference here in 1644; but he feemed difconcerted when I afked him, To what purpose ?' The country beyond Uxbridge a bounds in rich inclofures, but devoid of profpect. A man who likes to ride here, according to our friend W-'s pun, is a difinterested man, for he can have no view in it. All comes close to the eye, without any expanfe of country. The vicinity of Uxbridge, by the bye, is deformed by feveral old and wretched huts, not Ike those which were the prototypes of Grecian architecture, but like thofe which are the reproach of modern landholders. It is to be regretted, that, when the mind is cheared, and the eye fafcinated by a difplay of rich foil and cultivation, we are not allowed to forget the unrewarded labour of the peafant, to whom it may be faid, with great truth and propriety, fic vos non vobis, &c. Afcending a hill, we approach Bultrode, the delightful park and manfion of the duke of Portland; my defcription would be both short and fuperfluous; what can be faid of a place fo well known? Of the history of Bulftrode, I only recollect, as a triking contraft to the character of its prefent owner, that it was once inhabit d by judge Jefferies, a man who bequeathed a very appropriate nickname to every wicked judge, who fhould come after him. On this road, more than on any road from London, we have to find fault with the careleffnefs of the commiffioners, or of thofe perfons whofe duty it is to provide legible mileftones. Thefe, and the way pofts, are equally ufelefs, unlefs to an antiquarian, who might choose to amufe him felf in unfolding their myfteries. The expence of new ftones and pofts would be trifling, and whoever travels, knows that their advantages are very confiderable. Of all neglects, that which appears to arife from ftupid obftinacy, is the most infufferable. The magnitude of great obftacles may be fometimes invincible, and at all times may afford an apology, but why should that eafe and convenience be overlooked which can be promoted at a small expence either of labour of money? Milestones are trifles, but Little things are great to little man.' The view of the country, after paffing Bulitrode, is on both fides more open and extended, and ferves to exhibit the beauties of the park to the greatest advantage. Beaconsfield has nothing remarkable in its appearance. It cannot but occur, however, that near it is the refidence of a gentleman whofe genius has ever commanded veneration, but whofe character is per plexed with inconfutencies, which his enemies lay hold of, when they are wanting in argument, and which his friends attempt to juftify without fuc cefs. I know not how to appreciate the merit of this extraordinary man. You and I have applauded and blamed him a hundred times, without ever coming to an agreement. As a private gentleman, he is entitled to universal refpect. So firmly has he fecured the attachment of his friends, that it may be faid of him, which can be faid of very few men; none of his friendships have ever been diffolved but by himself. But in public life, he has too often been betrayed by the warmth of his feelings; and while yielding to the circumftances of the times, he has forgot that his talents and eloquence were given to make thofe times better. It frequently happens that when the imagination has been put in motion by genius, and is not checked by judgment, men of the greatest powers have weakened every caufe they meant to support. Our mutual friend Dr. afferts that B began |