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the church of Sant' Andrea dei Goti and a palace of the Polentani. In its turn it supplied building - material for the convent of Classe and for the Ponte Nuovo (p. 505).

About 1/2 M. to the E. of the Porta Serrata (Pl. D, E, 1, 2), the N. town-gate, restored in 1585, beyond the railway and the custodian's house (fee 50 c.), in the N.E. suburb at one time rich in churches, is the *Mausoleum of Theodoric the Great (Pl. G, 1), or Santa Maria della Rotonda, as it was called after the remains of the heretic were scattered by Belisarius and the church became an orthodox Catholic place of worship. In the middle ages it was the church of the adjoining Benedictine monastery and the central point of the Pantheon of Ravenna, but it was disengaged again from the surrounding buildings in 1719. Probably erected by Theodoric himself (about 520), it is a massive structure in the style of the ancient Roman tombs, of square blocks without mortar, and consists of a decagonal lower story, with ten round-arched recesses separated by pillars, and a somewhat retreating upper story, surmounted by a flat dome, 36 ft. in diameter, formed of a single huge block of Istrian rock, said to weigh 470 tons. The ornamentation is supposed to show traces of Germanic influence. A door within a recess on the W. side admits to a chamber in the shape of a Greek cross, with barrel vaulting. The upper story, accessible since 1776 by a double outside staircase, is occupied by a circular chamber, with a projection for the altar.

In the Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, to the S. of the Piazza Anita Garibaldi (p. 495), rises

*Sant' Apollinare Nuovo (Pl. E, F, 4, 5), a basilica erected after 500 by Theodoric the Great as an Arian cathedral and courtchurch, and converted by the Archbishop St. Agnellus into a Roman Catholic church (St. Martinus in Cœlo Aureo) in 560. It has borne its present name since the 8th or 9th century. The campanile is ancient. The atrium and apse were removed in the 16th and 18th cent., but the nave still affords the rare spectacle of a well-preserved interior decoration of the early-Christian period. The ceiling, however, was modernized in 1611. The custodian, who shows also the Palace of the Exarchs, lives in the adjoining house No. 39 (fee 30 c.).

The INTERIOR contains twenty-four marble columns brought from Constantinople. On the right is an ancient ambo. The walls of the nave are adorned with interesting *Mosaics of the 6th cent., partly of the Arian and partly of the Rom. Cath. period, afterwards frequently restored (most recently in 1898-99): on the left the town of Classis with its Roman buildings, the harbour with two lighthouses, the sea and ships, and twentytwo virgins with the Magi approaching the Madonna enthroned between angels (Byzantine work; the E. half badly restored); on the right the city of Ravenna with its churches (still without towers), the Palatium, the palace of Theodoric, and twenty-six saints with wreaths approaching Christ enthroned between angels (Byzantine; the last group has been

freely restored). These mosaics betray a tendency to the showy style of the later period, but the thirty-two figures of prophets above them, between the windows, are executed in a freer and more pleasing manner. Above the windows, on the upper part of the wall, on each side, are thirteen interesting compositions from the New Testament. On the left, the sayings and miracles of Christ (without a beard); on the right, the history of the Passion from the Last Supper to the Resurrection (Christ with a beard, the earliest instance of this method of representation in Ravenna). The omission of the Crucifixion itself points to the origin of these mosaics at an early period when representations of the kind were abhorred. The last chapel (Cappella delle Reliquie; locked) on the left, in which the marble lining of the walls still remains, contains an ancient marble episcopal throne, pierced marble screens which belonged to the ambo of the nave, and, on the wall, a portrait of Justinian in mosaic, badly restored in 1863. At the altar are four porphyry columns, perhaps from the ancient ciborium.

A portion of the cloisters (16th cent.) is the only relic of the Convent founded on the S. side of the church in the 10th cent., now mainly belonging to the Collegio dei Salesiani.

At the corner of the Via Alberoni, a few paces to the S. of Sant' Apollinare Nuovo, are some remains of the Palace of the Exarchs (Pl. 10; E, 5), which seems to have adjoined the W. side of the Palace of Theodoric. The remains include a two-storied brick structure, probably the main guard-house, already in the early Romanesque style (8th cent.?). The elaborate façade has a central projection, three round-arched portals, and a central niche in the upper story flanked by blind arcades. The columns have been obtained from earlier buildings. Behind are a colonnade in two stories (excavated in 1898 and freely restored like the rest), the substructures of two round towers, etc.

The foundations of the Palace of Theodoric (Pl. F, 4, 5) have been excavated since 1908 in the Via Alberoni behind the cloisters of Sant' Apollinare. Its principal façade fronted the S. and its E. gate gave upon the Gothic town-wall mentioned on p. 505. The palace was plundered by Belisarius in 539 and, owing to the fact that it was not built upon piles, early fell into decay. In 784 Charlemagne removed its treasures of art and most of its columns to Aix-la-Chapelle. The tower, the last fragment left standing, collapsed in 1295. We enter the ruins opposite the house No. 13. So far nothing has been identified except the large central court, once surrounded with a triple colonnade, in which is a statue-base (perhaps for the equestrian statue of Theodoric) and the banqueting-room, with a projection at the N.E. angle perhaps representing the ancient 'triclinium ad mare'.

Still farther to the S. is Santa Maria in Porto (Pl. F, 6), a conventual church erected by Bern. Tavella in 1553 et seq. from the remnants of San Lorenzo in Cæsarea (p. 494), and embellished with ornamentations from Santa Maria in Porto Fuori (p. 505); it was restored in 1895-96. The façade dates from 1784, The church

consists of nave and aisles with transept and an octagonal dome, the roof borne by columns and pillars placed alternately. In the N. transept is a Byzantine marble relief of the Virgin (10th cent. ?).

The adjacent Lateranensian Monastery, transferred hither from Santa Maria in Porto Fuori, and now archives, has fine Renaissance cloisters of 1496-1505 (by Pietro Lombardi?) and a handsome loggia of 1508-14, the latter restored in 1903-4. In the Ippodromo, behind the loggia, is preserved a fragment of the Ostrogothic Town Wall (6th cent.), which stood close to the sea down to 1098.

About 2 M. to the N.E. of the rail. station, on the Canale Corsini (p. 494) and at the beginning of the Pineta San Vitale, is the Cimitero Monumentale, laid out since 1879 (fine monuments). The pineta, which is a remnant of the pine-forest mentioned on p. 296, extends nearly to the Valli di Comacchio (p. 468).

About 2 M. to the S.E. of the Porta Nuova (Pl. F, 7) and not far from the ancient harbour of Ravenna, which has been entirely silted up since 1736, is the church of Santa Maria in Porto Fuori, a basilica with an open roof, erected by the Blessed Pietro degli Onesti ('Pietro il Peccatore') in 1096 et seq. and altered ca. 1300. It afterwards belonged to a Lateransian monastery (see above). The left aisle contains an early-Christian sarcophagus (3rd cent.?) with reliefs of the youthful Christ enthroned, St. Paul (bearded), and seven Disciples as young men; it was afterwards used for the bones of the founder of the church (d. 1119). The choir and the sidechapels contain beautiful frescoes by masters of the Rimini school (14th cent.). The massive substructures of the lofty square campanile (1173-87) are said to have belonged to a lighthouse. The church is mentioned by Dante (Paradiso xxi. 123).

No traveller should quit Ravenna without visiting the church of SANT' APOLLINARE IN CLASSE, situated 3 M. to the S.E. of the Porta Nuova. This may be done either by carriage (with one horse, there and back, 3-4 fr.; comp. p. 494), or by the railway between Ravenna and Rimini (station, Classe fares 60, 45, 30 c.). About halfway both the road and the railway cross the Fiumi Uniti (p. 494), the former by means of the Ponte Nuovo (1736). The church lies a little to the W. of the station.

*Sant' Apollinare in Classe Fuori, erected under Archbishop Ursicinus (535-38) by Julianus Argentarius outside the gates of Classis, was consecrated in 549 by St. Maximian, afterwards belonged for a long period to a Camaldulensian monastery (comp. p. 497), and was restored in 1779. This is the largest and best-preserved of the basilicas still existing at Ravenna and was finally freed from encroaching buildings in 1900-4. It consists of a nave and aisles, with a vestibule at the W. end, and a handsome 1ound campanile. The exterior exhibits traces of an attempt to

relieve the surfaces of the walls with indications of pilasters and arches. (For unlocking the doors, 50 c.)

The spacious INTERIOR (now almost destitute of colour) rests on 24 Proconnesian marble columns, and has an open roof added in the middle ages. The walls of the Nave and Aisles, which were stripped of their marble panelling by Sigismondo Malatesta in 1449, have been adorned since the 18th cent. with portraits of bishops and archbishops of Ravenna, an unbroken series of 131, from the first successor of St. Apollinaris, who suffered martyrdom in 79 under Vespasian, to the present archbishop. Each aisle contains four marble sarcophagi of archbishops (5-8th cent.). In the left aisle is a mural inscription relating to the penance performed here by Emp. Otho III. in 1001 at the instigation of St. Romuald. Farther on is an ancient capital used as a holy water basin. At the end of the aisle is the tabernacle of St. Eleucadius (9th cent.), with an altar of the 6th century. The NAVE contains a marble altar, in the ancient fashion, said to have been erected by St. Maximian. The CRYPT (12th cent.), a kind of corridor in which the remains of St. Apollinaris were deposited in 1173, has an ancient bronze window-grating, seen also from without.

Above the crypt is the broad flight of steps (restored in 1723) leading to the TRIBUNA, with the high-altar. At each end of the choir-bench is a half of the episcopal throne of St. Damianus (688-705), which has been sawn in two. The apse is adorned with Mosaics of the 6th and 7th cent. (restored in 1907-8 and many times pre- viously): in the centre, a large cross on a blue ground with gilded stars, with the Transfiguration, at the sides, Moses and Elias, below whom is St. Apollinaris amid his flock; below, on the right, are the sacrifices of Abel, Melchisedech, and Abraham; on the left, the three brothers Constantine IV., Heraclius, and Tiberius, bestowing privileges on Archbishop Reparatus (ca. 671-77); between them are the four archbishops Ursicinus, St. Ursus, St. Severus, and Ecclesius. The ROOD ARCH also is embellished with mosaics: in the centre a bust of Christ, at the sides the symbols of the Evangelists, and below them twelve Apostles (symbolized as sheep) hastening to Christ from the towns of Jerusalem and Bethlehem.

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The celebrated Pine Forest of Ravenna, or La Pineta di Classe, which existed in the time of Odoacer and has been extolled by Dante, Boccaccio, Dryden, and Byron, begins about 1/4 M. beyond the church of Sant' Apollinare. In spite of havoc wrought by frost and fire it is still worth a visit. We enter it (carr., see p. 494; driving in the forest forbidden) at the Fosso Ghiaia, near the railway-crossing, 21/2 M. to the S.E. of Sant' Apollinare.

About 2 M. to the S. of Ravenna, on the bank of the Ronco and near the Ponte della Cella station of the light railway to Forli (starting at the Piazza Anita Garibaldi; Pl. E, 4), rises the Colonna di Gaston de Foix, erected in 1557, a memorial of the victory gained on 11th April, 1512, by the united armies of Louis XII of France and Duke Alphonso I. of Ferrara over the Spanish troops and those of Pope Julius II. The brave Gaston de Foix (p. 175) fell at the moment of victory. The poet Ariosto was present at the battle. Near the station of San Bartolo, farther upstream, some remains of an Aqueduct built by Trajan may be seen in dry weather in the bed of the Ronco. This structure, which was restored by Theodoric, supplied Ravenna with water from the mountains near Teodorano, 2312 M. distant.

Railway from Ravenna to Ferrara, see p. 468; to Rimini, see Baedeker's Central Italy.

66. From Ravenna (or Bologna) to
Florence viâ Faenza.

507

94 M. RAILWAY in 41/2-61/2 hrs. (fares 17 fr. 55, 12 fr. 30, 7 fr. 90 c.). Carriages are changed at Castel Bolognese and Faenza.

From Ravenna or Bologna to (26 M.) Castel Bolognese, see pp. 493, 492.

31 M. Faenza (115 ft.; Corona, R. 1-2 fr.; Vittoria, R. 111⁄22 fr.; Posta), the Faventia of the Celtic Boii, a pleasant town with 13,300 inhab., on the Lamone (the ancient Anemo), was famous in the 15-16th cent. for its pottery ('fayence'). The spacious Piazza Vittorio Emanuele is surrounded by the Torre dell' Orologio, the Palazzo del Comune, and the fine CATHEDRAL OF SAN PIETRO. The latter, a basilica with nave and aisles, was begun in 1474 by Giuliano da Maiano, and contains the tomb of St. Savinus, by Benedetto da Maiano (1472). See Baedeker's Central Italy.

The RAILWAY TO FLORENCE describes a wide curve round Faenza, and by means of a short tunnel passes from the plain into the broad valley of the Lamone (see above), which it continues to ascend, frequently crossing the stream, to the ridge of the Apennines.

391/2 M. Brisighella (375 ft.), a pleasant town with 3700 inhab., situated, with its pretty villas, on the left bank of the river on a mountain-slope crowned with a castle. The Pieve del Todel (8th cent.) contains Roman columns.

At (53 M.) Marradi (1075 ft.) the mountains approach nearer to each other. Between this point and Borgo San Lorenzo we traverse 32 tunnels. On a conical mountain-peak to the right is a ruined castle. 56 M. Fantino-Palazzuolo.

Beyond (59 M.) Crespino we enter the main tunnel of the line (211⁄2 M. long; 5 min. transit), which pierces the ridge of the Apennines beneath the Poggio Allocchi (3345 ft.). The highest point of the line (1895 ft.) is reached in its middle. The line now rapidly descends and the long Monzagnano Tunnel (11/4 M.) brings us to the narrow, mountain-enclosed valley of the Rozzolo, which we soon quit by another series of tunnels to enter the valley of the Elsa at the church of Madonna dei Tre Fiumi.

Beyond (65 M.) Ronta the train leaves the valley of the Elsa, and runs through a fertile hilly district to (70 M.) Panicaglia. The beds of several torrents are spanned by large bridges and viaducts.

721, M. Borgo San Lorenzo (635 ft.; Alb. Pergola) is the chief place (5100 inhab.) in the Mugello, a beautiful wide valley, enclosed by lofty mountains, on the W. slope of the Central Apennines. The valley is watered by the Sieve, which joins the Arno at Pontassieve (p. 655).

The train crosses the stream a little before reaching (76 M.) San Piero a Sieve (690 ft.; p. 490) and then, following the monotonous

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