the capital of a province and the seat of a bishop, is a poor town of 19,700 inhab., possessing broad streets flanked with arcades. In the middle ages it was often the object of severe conflicts between the Malaguzzi and the Ruggeri; from 1289 to 1597 it belonged to Ferrara, after that to the duchy of Modena (comp. p. 461).

In the Via Emilia San Pietro, the E. part of the ancient Via Emilia (p. 432), which intersects the town, rise the suppressed Benedictine convent of San Pietro (Pl. E, 3, 4; now a military store), with graceful early-Renaissance cloisters by Bart. Spani (1513), and the Palazzo Terrachini, formerly called Casa Ruini (same date), which possesses three pretty early-Renaissance courts.

To the S. of the main street, in the Piazza San Prospero, is the church of SAN PROSPERO (Pl. C, 3), erected in 1504 by Gasparo Bisi on the site of an earlier Romanesque edifice, to which the six marble lions of the façade (rebuilt in 1748) originally belonged.

INTERIOR. Over the entrance is the tomb of Rufino Gabloneta (d. 1527), by Bart. Spani. By the 4th altar on the right: Sodoma. St. Homobonus giving alms (1518); 5th altar: Copy of Correggio's Holy Night (transferred to Dresden in 1746), in the original frame. RIGHT TRANSEPT: Statue of the Madonna, by Prospero Clementi (d. 1584), grandson of Bart. Spani and pupil of Michael Angelo. In the CHOIR are frescoes (restored) by Bern. Campi of Cremona and Camillo Procaccini (1585-89).

In the adjacent Piazza Vitt. Emanuele is situated the Cathedral (Pl. C, 3), re-erected in the 15-16th cent., with a Renaissance façade, completed only in the lower part, behind which interesting traces of the earlier Romanesque church of the 12th cent., with frescoes of the 13th, are still observable. Above the principal entrance are recumbent statues of Adam and Eve by Prospero Clementi. Near the top of the tower is a group in copper (Madonna and two donors) by Bart. Spani (ca. 1500?).

The INTERIOR has a lofty choir and a crypt. In the 3rd chapel on the right: Tomb of Valerio Malaguzzi (d. 1498), uncle of the poet Ariosto. by Bart. Spani (ca. 1530). Chapel to the right of the choir: Monument of Ugo Rangoni, Bishop of Reggio and nuncio of Paul III. at the court of Charles V., by P. Clementi (1566). Chapel to the left of the choir: Tomb of Bishop Buonfrancesco Arlotti (d. 1508), by Bart. Spani; admirable statue of Christ, on the altar, by Clementi. Near the entrance, in the left aisle, is the tomb of Cherubino Sforzani, the alleged inventor of the hourglass, by Clementi (1560); beside the 1st chapel in the same aisle is the tomb of Clementi, with his bust, a fine work by his pupil Franc. Pacchioni (1588). In the Cappella del Santuario, near the sacristy, are two silver reliquaries with busts of St. Chrysanthus and St. Daria, by Bart. Spani and his son Giov. Andrea Spani (1538); also a silver pax, by

Lelio Orsi.

On the W. side of the piazza, at the corner of the Via del Palazzolo and Via della Rosa, is the house (almost entirely rebuilt) in which Lodovico Ariosto (p. 461), the poet, was born. His father, Niccolò Ariosti of Ferrara, had married Daria Malaguzzi while he was commandant of the citadel of Reggio. Proceeding hence to the W. by the Via San Pietro Martire, we reach the baroque church of the

*MADONNA DELLA GHIARA (Pl. A, B, 3), built after 1597 by Al. Balbi of Ferrara, in the form of a Greek cross with a dome over the crossing. It was finished after Balbi's death by Franc. Pacchioni and restored in 1890 (closed 12.30-4).

The INTERIOR is distinguished for the beauty of its proportions and for its charming decorations in stucco. It is adorned with frescoes in the nave an in the left transept by Luca Ferrari (1605-54) of Reggio, a pupil of Guid Reni. The frescoes in the choir are by Al. Tiarini and those in the dome and the right transept are by Lionello Spada, both of the school o the Caracci. In the left transept is a fine altar-piece (Crucifixion) b Guercino; and in the right transept is a highly-revered figure of the Madonna, drawn by Lelio Orsi (1569; covered).

The MUSEUM (Pl. C, 2) contains the natural history collection of the celebrated physiologist Lazzaro Spallanzani (1729-99), an interesting palæo-ethnological collection illustrative of the history of the province, and a 'Gliptoteca', containing sculptures from the province of Reggio. The Teatro Municipale (Pl. C, 2), erected about 1855 by Ces. Costa, is one of the largest in Italy.

The Biblioteca Municipale (Pl. B, 4), Via Farini 5, contains 56,000 vols. and about 1000 MSS.

On the Via Emilia, about 2 M. to the S.E. of the Barriera Vittorio Emanuele (Pl. E. F, 4), lies the village of San Maurizio (diligence from Reggio thrice daily). Beyond the stream called the Rodano is a Renaissance triumphal arch (16th cent.), forming the entrance to the Mauriziano or Villa dell'Ariosto, the unpretentious summer-residence of the Malaguzzi, where the poet was often a guest. The three Stanze dell' Ariosto, which have been freely restored and contain furniture of a later period, still retain the original Renaissance decoration. In the first room are poor frescoes by Nicc. dell' Abate (?), representing the poets of ancient and modern Italy (including a portrait of Ariosto).

FROM REGGIO TO CIANO, 191, M., local railway in 1 hr. (station, see p. 438). The line runs to the W. to (5 M.) Cavriago (255 ft.) and then skirts the foothills of the Apennines to (7 M.) Barco, the junction for the branch-line to Montecchio mentioned on p. 449. To the right, on the other side of the Enza, we see the castle of Montechiarugolo (p. 449). 91/2 M. Bibbiano (430 ft.; inn). a town with 3700 inhab., is the station for Quattro Castella (625 ft.), 11/2 M. to the S., with the ruins of four castles which once belonged to the Countess Matilda of Tuscany (p. 511). 13 M. San Polo d'Enza (545 ft.), in the Enza valley (road to Traversetolo, see p. 449). On the right is the Rocca di Guardasone (p. 449), on the left appear the castles of Rossena and Canossa. 181/2 M. Canossa; 1914 M. Ciano d'Enza (695 ft.; inn).

From Ponte Vico, near the station of Canossa, a cart-road leads to the S.E. through a bleak region, skirting the S. base of the precipitous rock on which stand the castle of Rossena (1620 ft.) and the Torre di Rossanella, to (2 hrs.) the castle-rock of Canossa (1890 ft.; custodian in the uppermost house of the neighbouring village of Canossa, 1 fr.). This ruined castle, once the strongest fortress in the Emilia, was erected in 940 and destroyed in 1255. It owes its celebrity to the penance imposed here in 1077 upon Emp. Henry IV. by Pope Gregory VII. The latter, who had taken refuge at Canossa with Countess Matilda on Henry's appearance in Italy, refused to grant absolution until Henry, clad as a penitent, and his wife Berta, had stood for three days (25-28th Jan.) outside the castle. The scanty ruins are now a national monument; in the interior is a small museum (key with the attendant). Magnificent view of the Apennines, with the castle of Rossena in the foreground, and of the vast plain of the Po towards the N., with Parma, Reggio, and Modena.

Two monotonous HIGHROADS (motor-diligence and omn.), the one viâ Puianello, Pecorile (785 ft.), and Torre del Lago (2330 ft.). the other viâ Puianello and Vezzano, connect Reggio with Casina (1885 ft.; Alb. Vittoria), Marola (2650 ft.), with an old abbey, Felina (2200 ft.), and (30 M.) the inconsiderable town of Castelnovo ne' Monti (2295 ft.; Alb. Tre Re, R. 1, fr.). From Felina a road runs to the little hill-town of Carpineti (1825 ft.; inn), the old castle of which was once a refuge of the quarrelsome monk Hildebrand, afterwards Pope Gregory VII. Castelnovo lies on the N.W. flank of the abrupt rocky peak of the Pietra Bismantova (3435 ft.), which Dante mentions in his 'Purgatorio' (iv. 25). The top affords an admirable view of the chain of the Apennines. From Castelnovo the highroad runs viâ (43 M.) Collagna (2725 ft.), in the valley of the Secchia, and the Alb. della Gabellina (3265 ft.; good), frequented as a summer-resort, on the hill-route to Pontremoli (p. 449) mentioned at p. 450, and thence viâ the (51 M.) Passo del Cerreto (4135 ft.) to (6212 M.) Fivizzano (1045 ft.; Alb. della Posta; comp p. 450), with an old town wall and the ruins of a castle. Thence it proceeds past Soliera (p. 450), across the stream of Aulella (p. 450), and via the (75 M.) Foce il Cuccù (1730 ft.) and (77 M.) Fosdinovo (1640 ft.), a finely situated village with a town-wall and a well-preserved castle of the Malaspina. in which Dante (p. 559) wrote several stanzas of his 'Inferno', to (82 M.) Sarzana (p. 143). Or from Fosdinovo we may follow the picturesque road over the Monte Spolverina and viâ Castelpoggio to (81/2 M.) Carrara (p. 144).

FROM REGGIO TO GUASTALLA, 18 M., railway in 1-2 hrs. (fares 3 fr. 40, 2 fr. 40. 1 fr. 55 c.). 5 M. Bagnolo in Piano; 11 M. Novellara (79 ft.), on the Canale di Molini, a principality of the house of Gonzaga (p. 315) down to 1737. 18 M. Guastalla, see p. 321.

From Bagnolo, on the railway just described, a BRANCH LINE (12 M. in 3-1 hr.) runs to Carni (p. 322). The chief intermediate station is (51⁄2 M.) Correggio (105 ft.; Alb. della Posta), the capital until 1630 of a principality afterwards belonging to the Duchy of Modena, and the birthplace of the celebrated painter Antonio Allegri da Correggio (p. 443). The Piazza San Quirino is embellished with a statue of the master by V. Vela (1880). Another branch-line runs to the S.E. from Reggio viâ (8 M.) Scandiano and (13 M.) Veggia - Castellarano (p. 455) to (1412 M.) Sassuolo (p. 455).

103 M. Rubiera. The Secchia is then crossed. 111 M. Modena (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 451. The train crosses the Panáro. 11812 M. Castelfranco d'Emilia (140 ft.), supposed to be the ancient Forum Gallorum where Antony was defeated by Octavian and Hirtius, 43 B.C. Beyond (123 M.) Samoggia the train crosses the river of that name and then the narrow Reno, the ancient Rhenus or Amnis Bononiensis. The Madonna di San Luca, on the Monte della Guardia (p. 489), is conspicuous to the right.

134 M. Bologna, see p. 468.

58. Parma.

The Railway Station (Pl. D, 1; Restaurant) for the Piadena-Brescia (p. 269), Guastalla - Suzzara - Mantua (p. 321), Milan-Bologna (R. 57), and Milan-Parma-Sarzana (Pisa)-Spezia (R. 59) lines lies at the N. end of the town. a good 1/2 M. from the hotels.

Hotels (comp. p. xxi). ALBERGO CROCE BIANCA (Pl. a; D. 4), Strada Garibaldi 13, near the Steccata, R. 3-5. omn. 1/2-1 fr.; ITALIA (Pl. b; E, 3), Strada Cavour 37, with good trattoria, R. 2-4, omn. 3/4 fr.; ALB. LA MACINA

(Pl. c; E. 3, 4), Piazzale della Macina, R. 3-5 fr., good cuisine; Hôr. CONCORDIA (Pl. d; D, 3). Borgo Angelo Mazza, plain but good; MODERNE HOTEL MEUBLE, at the station, R. 212 fr.. recommended.

Cafés. Marchesi, Piazza Garibaldi; Violi, Strada Garibaldi.

Post & Telegraph Office (Pl. D, 3), Strada Carlo Pisacane (sideentrance, Strada Macedonio Melloni).

Cab to or from the station 1 fr., two-horse 1 fr. 60 c.; at night 11, or 2 fr. per hour 1 fr. 60 c. or 2 fr., each addit. hr. 1 fr. 20 or 1 fr. 50 c. Trunk 25 c.

Tramways (10 c.). 1. From the railway-station viâ the Piazza della Prefettura (Pl. D, 3) and the Strada Cavour (Pl. D, E. 3) to the Piazza Garibaldi (Pl. D. 4). 2. From the Barriera Vittorio Emanuele (Pl. G, 4)

via the Piazza Garibaldi to the Barriera Massimo d'Azeglio (Pl. A. 4).' 3. From the Barriera Garibaldi (Pl. D, 1) by the Strada di Circonvallazione back to the Barriera Garibaldi. 4. From the Piazza Garibaldi via the

-

Strada Farini and the Ponte Caprazucca (Pl. D, 5) to the Barriera Nino Bixio (Pl. B. C. 6).

Public Collections, etc. (comp. p. xxvii):

Convento di San Paolo (p. 448), week-days 10-4 (adm. 1 fr., including the Picture Gallery, see below); closed on Sunday. Visitors are conducted by a custodian.

Library (p. 447), week-days 9-4.

Museum (p. 446). week-days 9-4, 1 fr. (incl. the Teatro Farnese, see below); Sun. & holidays 10-2, free.

Picture Gallery (p. 446), week-days 10-4, 1 fr. (incl. the Convento di San Paolo); Sun. & holidays 10-2, free.

Teatro Farnese (p. 448), as to the Museum. Visitors are conducted by a custodian.

Chief Attractions (1 day). Madonna della Steccata (p. 443), Baptistery (p. 444), *Cathedral (p. 444), San Giovanni Evangelista (p. 445); afternoon, *Picture Gallery (p. 446).

Parma (170 ft.), formerly the capital of a duchy of the same name and now the capital of a province, lies near the Apennines, on the river Parma, a small tributary of the Po. The town is of entirely modern appearance, although of very ancient origin, with straight, uniform streets and 46,700 inhabitants. It is an episcopal see and possesses a university.

The foundation of Parma is probably to be ascribed to the consul M. Æmilius (183 B.C.). though the discovery of a lake-dwelling of the bronze period proves that a human settlement existed here in prehistoric times. The town offered a determined resistance to the attacks of the Ligurians, but it was destroyed by Mark Antony as the birthplace of Cassius, one of Cæsar's murderers. Under Augustus, who named it Colonia Julia Augusta Parma, it attained to new prosperity, and repeated devastations in the early middle ages proved only temporary checks to the growth of its importance, which arose from its large woollen manufactories and from its university, founded in the 11th cent. and renowned for its 'Glossators' (p. 471) from the time of Uberto di Bobbio (1214-28) onward. Parma participated in the general development of the towns of Upper Italy. zealously espoused the cause of the Guelphs, and in 1247-48 was long unsuccessfully besieged by Emp. Frederick II. In 1303 Giberto da Correggio obtained possession of the supreme power. In 1346, after various vicissitudes, Parma came into the hands of the Visconti, and from that period down to 1512 it was generally united with the Duchy of Milan. In 1545, after it had been annexed to the States of the Church, it was presented by Pope Paul III., with Piacenza, to his infamous son Pier Luigi Farnese. This prince was assassinated in 1547 at Piacenza and was succeeded by Ottavio Farnese (1547-86), Alexander Farnese (1586-92). who took part in the battle of Lepanto (1571) and afterwards attained great