The frescoes in the apse, probably dating from the days of Poppo and Markward, represent the Consecration of the church in the presence of Emp. Conrad II. (above) and the Sufferings of St. Hermagoras (below). The walls of the crypt, which is a relic of the original early-Christian church, are painted with frescoes of the 13th century. Behind a screen is an old reliquary. The ruinous 'Chiesa dei Pagani', dating from the time of Poppo, connects the narthex of the cathedral with the Baptistery, an octagonal building of the 4th cent. on Roman foundations. The lower part of the conspicuous Campanile (240 ft. high), which rises on the site of the left aisle of the early-Christian basilica, is Romanesque (1031) and is built of stones from the amphitheatre. The upper part dates from the 14th century. The top commands a superb *View of the lagoons, the Gulf of Trieste, the plain of the Isonzo, and the distant Friulian and Julian Alps. We return to the highroad and taking the next turning on the right, reach the *ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (Pl. C, 4), founded in 1882 and containing antiquities discovered in the vicinity of Aquileia. Open daily 8-12 and 2-7 (8-5 in winter); adm. 50h; visitors ring. Illustrated catalogue (1910; 1 K). Director, Prof. H. Maionica. The charming GARDEN, with ancient sculptures, sepulchral urns, etc. effectively interspersed among the cedars, cypresses, and palms, recalls the Villa Albani at Rome. The GROUND FLOOR contains the sculptures. In the outer hall are the larger monuments, including the Roman Tombs, which, bounded by Cippi (corner-stones), used to flank the road soutside the town-gates. They are arranged according to type, viz. the Stelæ (simple tomb-stones), Tituli (mural tablets), Aræ (altar-tombs), Sarcophagi of stone and of lead, Edicula (chapel-shaped tombs), and Cista (cinerary urns). Some of the cistæ have tall pyramidal covers. A Roman sun-dial, with a wind-indicator, may be noted also. Room I. Smaller sculptures. Wall C., 11. Bust in the style of Polycletus (freely restored); 12c. Bust of Livia, wife of Augustus. R. II. Imperial statues (Wall A, 1. Tiberius; Wall F, 83. Claudius) and military monuments. - R. III. Roman municipal monuments, sepulchral inscriptions, etc. Wall C, 46. Sarcophagus-relief of boys drinking. EarlyChristian antiquities: Wall B, 31. Fragment of mosaic of the 4th cent.; Wall C, 49a. Relief with SS. Paul and Peter (4th cent.). R. IV (Room of the gods). Roman inscriptions and sculptures relating to the worship of the gods. Wall A & E, 24-29. Stone medallions (clipea) with busts of the gods; Wall C, 74. Reproduction of the Venus de Medici (p. 583); 83. Round relief of a dancing Mænad. Wall E, 41. Cinerary urn, with watch-dog. On the FIRST FLOOR are the smaller antiquities. Room V. Central Case I. Prehistoric and Roman sepulchral antiquities. Case VI. Cameos, vitreous paste (cheap imitations of gems, including a *Hermaphrodite reposing), rings, works in agate, etc. Case III. *Works in amber, including a box with the bust of a bacchante. Case IX. Coins and medals. Wall-case V contains a number of flies stamped in gold (probably from a pall) and other articles in gold. R. VI. Metal work: leaden frames for sepulchral mirrors; works in iron; bronzes. R. VII. Terracottas, including numerous Roman and early-Christian lamps. R. VIII. *Glass, some very rare: cinerary urns, ointment and perfume bottles, opalescent glass, and fragments of the rare 'Murrino' glass. In Case XXVIII is an asbestos net, used in cremations. 71/2 M. Belvedere, the next station, is a village on the margin of the lagoon, with a fine pine-wood (pineta), extensive dunes, and fishhatcheries. 8 M. Grado Station, with waiting-room and buffet. The STEAMER thence to Grado follows the new canal, skirting the railway-embankment at present under construction, and passes close to the island of Gorgo. On Gorgo and on the islets to the E. of the embankment are numerous casoni, or fishermen's huts constructed of reeds and resembling prehistoric structures. Grado. HOTELS. Grand-Hôtel Fonzari (Pl. a; B, 3), Piazza Corte, R. from 3 K; Hôt. Esplanade, Via di Bagni, R. 5-7 K, new; Hôtel Lido (Pl. b; B, 3); Pensione Fortino (Pl. k; B, 3), closed Oct.-April; Hôt. Grignaschi (Pl. f; B, 2), good; Hôt. Warner (Pl. c; B, 3), R. 2-4 K, etc. Kursalon (Pl. B, 3). POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. A, 3), Via Ospizio Vecchio. quitoes troublesome in summer (p. xxiii)." Mos Grado, a fishing-town (4000 inhab.), pleasantly situated on a spit of land (lido), with three sardine-factories, has recently become the most frequented bathing - resort in Austria next to Abbazia. Originally, under the name of Aquæ Gradatæ, merely a sea-bathing dependency of the Roman Aquileia, Grado enjoyed a brief period of importance in the 6th and 7th cent., especially under the Patriarch Elias (572-578), who formally proclaimed it the Nova Aquileia. It joined the Venetian naval league (p. 296) in 697 and became the ecclesiastical centre for all sea-faring places; but its isolation from its 'hinterland' heavily handicapped it in the race with Venice. Its decline was hastened by the numerous floods caused by the violent scirroccos, which engulfed a large portion of its territory. The residence of its patriarch was in 1156 removed to Venice and in 1451 the patriarchal title was transferred to the new archbishopric of Venice. Since 1809 Grado has belonged to Austria. A Diga, or mole, now protects the quaint old town, in the centre of which is the Piazza Grande (Pl. A, 2, 3) and the little Giardino Pubblico, with an artesian well, 710 ft. in depth. A little to the E. rises the CATHEDRAL (Sant' Eufemia), founded in the 5th cent. but rebuilt about 578 by the Patriarch Elias. It is a basilica with aisles but no transept, with a modernized narthex. INTERIOR (restored in 1869). The mosaic pavement dates from the time of Elias. In the nave, to the left, is a Romanesque pulpit, with a canopy in the Venetian-Byzantine style. The high-altar has an antependium (pala) in embossed silver, a Venetian work of 1372 (covered). In the apse are ancient frescoes (13th cent.) and the patriarch's throne, put together out of various early-Christian fragments. Several earlyChristian and medieval church-utensils are preserved in the sacristy, from which we enter a small court, containing remains of Roman and Christian monuments, including three Roman sarcophagi. Adjoining the cathedral is an originally early - Christian Baptistery (Pl. 1; B, 3), now containing no font. The foundations of an 8th cent. (?) Basilica may be seen in the Piazza della Corte (Pl. B, 3); below them are fragments of an early-Christian aisleless basilica of the 6th cent., with mosaics. Pleasant excursion (3/4 hr., boat with 2 hrs.' stay 3 K 20-5 K 60 h) to the little island of Barbana, on which is an ancient pilgrimage -church, founded in 585 and reconstructed in 1593-1612. A mariners' procession takes place here annually on the first Sun. in July. VI. THE EMILIA. Route 56. From Turin to Piacenza viâ Alessandria 57. From Milan to Bologna viâ Parma and Modena. Pia Page 433 434 From From Piacenza to Genoa viâ Bobbio. From Fiorenzuola 58. Parma 59. From (Milan) Parma to Sarzana (Pisa) and Spezia From Aulla to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, 450. 60. Modena From Modena to Nonantola, to Mirandola, to Sassuolo 61. From Venice to Bologna viâ Padua and Ferrara. From Abano Bagni to the Euganean Hills, 456. 441 449 451 456 From 460 From Ferrara to Copparo, to Codigoro, and to Ra- 62. Ferrara . 63. Bologna. 468 a. The Central and South-Western Quarters, 472. 66. From Ravenna (or Bologna) to Florence viâ Faenza. 507 The Emilia, embracing the district between the Apennines and the Po, from the Trebbia (p. 433) to Cattolica on the Adriatic, includes the former duchies of Parma and Modena, as well as the papal Romagna, and is now divided into the eight provinces of Piacenza, Parma, Reggio, Modena, Bologna, Ferrara, Ravenna, and Forli, covering an area of 7920 sq. M., with a population of 2,478,000 souls. The dialects spoken here form the third main group of the Celtic languages of Upper Italy, and the nasal sound of the vowels will at once strike the traveller as indicating the affinity of the people with the French. The Celts crossed the Alps in several migrations. After the Insubri had conquered the district of Milan and the Cenomani Brescia and Verona, the tribe of the Boii crossed the Po about 400 B.C. and subjugated the Etruscans and Umbrians who were settled to the S. of that river. They chose Bologna for their capital, in the name of which is still preserved that of the conquerors. The Senones next invaded Italy and took possession of the coast-district to the S. of the Boii, extending nearly to Ancona. It was a horde of these Gauls that destroyed Rome in 389 B.C. About a century later Italy, united under the leadership of Rome, began to reconquer the lost territory. BAEDEKER'S Northern Italy. 14th Edit. 28 In 283 the Senones were exterminated. In 269 a colony was established at Ariminum, which became the strongest frontier-fortress in the peninsula and was connected with Rome by the Via Flaminia. In 224 the Boii were subjugated and, by planting the colonies of Placentia and Cremona in 219, Rome extended her frontier as far as the Po. This process of Latinization was interrupted by the invasion of Hannibal but vigourously resumed after his defeat; and in 189 Bologna, and in 183 Modena and Parma received Roman colonies. M. Æmilius Lepidus, who was consul in 187 B.C., constructed a military road from Rimini to Piacenza, viâ Bologna, Modena, Reggio, and Parma, a distance of 150 M., called the Via Emilia, whence the whole district derived the ancient name which it still retains. Down to the time of Cæsar, although the Roman language and customs had spread rapidly here, the district was officially known as Gallia Cispadana, the 'Province of Gaul on this side of the Po', and the Rubicon formed the frontier of Italy; but in 43 B.C. it was finally united with the latter. The institutions of antiquity lingered here longer than in any other part of Italy. In 402 the Emperor Honorius transferred his residence to Ravenna, which continued to be the capital also, under Odoacer and the early Gothic kings. After the overthrow of the Gothic domination by Belisarius (539) and Narses, the conqueror of Totila (552) and Teia (553), Ravenna became the seat of the Exarchs, and the Italian centre of the Eastern Roman Empire. The Lombards (p. 150) after 568 attacked and finally took possession of it, but it was soon wrested from them by the Frankish king Pepin, who is said to have presented the whole exarchate, i.e. the coast-district from the Po to Ancona, to the Roman Church in 755. At first, however, the real supremacy over the district was held by the Archbishop of Ravenna. The States of the Church never constituted a uniform whole like those of Milan or Venice. They consisted of a number of towns, principalities, and monasteries, often estranged from the pontifical throne and not unfrequently in arms against it. The pope appointed cardinals as his legates in the different districts, but their power was limited, since the most important prerogatives were usurped by his subjects. Meanwhile the towns in the Emilia prospered greatly and became famous as cradles of science, notwithstanding the feuds between Guelphs and Ghibellines, princes, nobles, and burghers, which raged within and without their walls. Roman Law, which after the Germanic invasion had been preserved in Ravenna, Bologna, Pavia, and other towns and districts, began to be studied scientifically in this region in the 11th century. From the 12th cent. onwards, owing to the unsettled condition of rights, the study became very prevalent, Bologna being its great centre, seconded by Parma and Pavia, whence a knowledge of Roman law gradually extended over the other countries of Europe (comp. p. 471). The POLITICAL HISTORY of these districts during the middle ages records continual struggles for precedence among several rival powers. As long as the power of the emperors was in the ascendant, they kept the pretensions of the popes in check. Nicholas III. was the first pope to obtain control of the entire Romagna (in 1278). During the exile of the popes at Avignon the dismemberment of the papal dominions seemed imminent, but after protracted combats it was prevented by Cardinal d'Albornoz, a valiant Spaniard who was sent to Italy by Innocent VI. in 1353. Even those princes, however, who consented to acknowledge the papal supremacy still continued practically independent. It is difficult to say how often the stubborn citizens of Bologna were subdued by the popes, only to rise again in successful revolt. Alexander VI. and his son Cesare Borgia at length put an end to this insubordination about 1499; they extirpated the dynasties of the Romagna with fire and sword, and from that period the papal fiefs began to be gradually converted into a state in the modern sense. Under Julius II. and Leo X. the papal supremacy was farther extended to Modena, Parma, and Piacenza, In 1545 Paul III. Farnese invested Pier Luigi, his natural son, with the last |