4. Steamers (No. 7; p. 344) ply from the Fondamente Nuove (Pl. H, 3) to SAN MICHELE and MURANO. The island of San Michele, 14 M. to the N.E. of Venice, was formerly the site of a Camaldulensian convent, the garden of which, together with the neighbouring islet of San Cristoforo della Paec, has served as a cemetery (Cimitero) since 1813. The entrance to the cemetery is to the right in the cloisters; on Nov. 1st and 2nd a bridge-ofboats connects it with the Fondamente Nuove.

To the left of the cloisters stands the church of San Michele, built by Moro Coducci in 1469-78, a basilica with a cassetted ceiling, next to San Giobbe (p. 385) and San Zaccaria (p. 389) the oldest Renaissance church in Venice. To the left of the vestibule is the tasteful little Cappella Emiliana, erected by Gugl. Bergamasco in 1527-43, with three *Reliefs in the style of Andrea Sansovino (by Giov. Ant. Aprile?), and in the vestibule Fra Paolo Sarpi's tomb (see Robertson's 'Fra Paolo Sarpi'). G. P. R. James (d. 1860), the novelist, Eugene Schuyler (d. 1890), and Rawdon Brown are buried in the Protestant Cemetery.

Murano, a quiet town with 5000 inhab., lies 3/4 M. to the N.E. of Venice. Since 1292 it has been the exclusive seat of the Venetian glass industry, which was introduced from Grado (p. 430) in the early middle ages, attained its zenith in the 15th and 16th cent., but declined after the 17th cent. owing to the preference of customers for the harder clear glass of foreign makers. At the height of its prosperity Murano had an independent government and minted its own coins (p. 400). Its splendid palaces have vanished, leaving scarcely a trace, and its gardens, once the favourite resort of Venetian artists and scholars, are replaced by vineyards. The glassworks (p. 346) are, of course, closed on Sundays and holidays.

From the steamboat station of Colonna, on the S.W. side of the island, we follow the Fondamenta dei Vetrai straight on to (6 min.) SAN PIETRO MARTIRE, a simple and spacious basilica of 1509.

INTERIOR. To the right, Giovanni Bellini, Madonna enthroned with SS. Augustine and Mark, the kneeling Doge Ag. Barbarigo, and angelic musicians (1488; injured); to the left, near the sacristy door, Marco Basaiti (?), Assumption of the Virgin, in a beautiful landscape. In the sacristy are stalls by Paolo Morando (a pupil of Brustoloni), with Biblical scenes and half-lengths of Roman emperors and heroes.

We e now cross the main canal by the Ponte Vivarini and follow either the Fondamenta Sebastiano Venier to the left to the former conventual church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, which has a high-altar-piece by Pordenone (Assumption, showing Titian's influence), or the Fondamenta Cavour to the right, with the canal on our left, passing the Museo steamboat station, to the

MUSEO CIVICO VETRARIO, in the Municipio, an interesting exhibition of the products of the glass-industry (open 8-6, Oct.-March adm. 50 c., Sun. free).

9-4;

Thence we go on to the church of SANTI MARIA E DONATO, a building of very ancient origin, said to have been completed about 970, but largely rebuilt since 1100 and thoroughly restored in 185873, with a fine choir.

The INTERIOR is in the form of a basilica with nave and aisles, with transepts resting on piers. The open roof is borne by columns of Greek marble. The mosaic pavement, which resembles that of St. Mark's, bears the date 1140. In the left aisle, over the door, Madonna with saints and angels, by Lazzaro Bastiani (1484); to the left, coloured relief in wood of St. Donatus (1310), with the kneeling donors; in the more elevated chapel adjoining is a Roman tombstone of the family Acilia, formerly used as a font. In the apse, a Byzantine mosaic of the interceding Madonna (12th cent.); below it, frescoes of the 15th century.

5. An excursion to BURANO and TORCELLO, situated on two islands about 5 M. to the N.W. of Venice, is interesting to students of art. Preferable to the regular lagoon-steamer (No. 4; p. 344) is the excursion-steamer (No. 3, p. 344). The latter sails round the island Sant' Elena (p. 368) and passes those of Certosa (right) and San Pietro (left; p. 396). It proceeds, leaving San Michele and Murano at some distance, to the N.E. past Mazzorbo, the ancient Maiurbium, the malarious cemetery - islet of Burano, with which it is connected by a wooden bridge. In 11/4 hr. we reach

Burano (Alb. Roma, on the Rio di Mezzo, clean), a picturesque fishing-town with 5100 inhabitants. About 5 min. from the quay, by the Rio di Mezzo, is the Piazzo Umberto Primo, No. 4a in which (on the left) is the interesting Royal School of Lacemaking (p. 346), which employs about 400 girls. Venetian lace, famed far and wide in the 15-17th cent., was afterwards superseded by Flemish and French lace, but the foundation of this school in 1872 has given it a new vogue. Besides the ordinary pillow-lace with regular, almost geometrical patterns, the more costly pointlace or Burano lace is made here. Opposite is the church of San Martino, with a lofty leaning campanile and paintings by Girol. da Santa Croce (St. Mark and four other saints; 1501) and G. B. Tiepolo (Crucifixion; injured). In the sacristy is shown some 16th cent. point-lace.

To the S. of Burano, near the N. extremity of the Litorale Sant' Erasmo (p. 416), is the islet of San Francesco del Deserto, shaded by lofty cypresses but exposed to malaria. An ancient tradition identifies this island as the residence of St. Francis of Assisi after his return from the East in 1220. The Franciscan monastery, founded here in 1228, has a pretty loggia in the second cloisters.

After an hour's halt the excursion-steamer goes on to Torcello, a solitary island to the N. of Burano, with extensive vineyards. The quay is on the N. side of the island, beside two churches and a campanile, the only relics of the ancient town of Altinum (p. 296).

The former CATHEDRAL OF SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA, a columnar basilica in the early-Christian style, was founded in the 7th cent. and rebuilt in 864; the present nave dates from 1008.

INTERIOR. The old mosaic pavement 'dates from 1140. On the W. wall are six rows of freely restored Byzantine mosaics of the 12th cent., representing a Crucifixion group (at the top), Christ in Hades, the Last Judgment, the Throne of Reconciliation, Heaven, and Hell. On the choirscreen are marble reliefs of animals (below) and Gothic paintings (above) of the Madonna and the Apostles (ca. 1400), with a wooden crucifix above. A special point of interest is the ancient arrangement of the seats of the priests in the semicircular tribuna (restored in 1890), rising in tiers and commanded by the lofty episcopal throne in the centre. Above, the Annunciation (on the arch) and the Madonna and the Apostles in Byzantine mosaic (12th cent.). Similar mosaics of Christ and the Apostles, with four angels standing upon spheres, in the right apse. Below the choir is an ancient crypt.

The ruins of an octagonal Baptistery of 1008 adjoin the cathedral. — The top of the Romanesque Campanile (180 ft.) commands an admirable view of the islands, the lagoons, and the sea.

SANTA FOSCA, built on a Byzantine model and dating in its present form from the 12th cent., is externally octagonal (interior intended for a dome, but at present covered with a flat roof) and is of interest for architects. On five sides it is enclosed by an arcade supported by sixteen columns and four corner-pillars. The restoration of the church was begun in 1911.

In the neighbourhood are the ancient Judgment Seat of the tribunes of Torcello (popularly known as Attila's throne) and two small museums of antiquities.

After barely an hour's halt the excursion-steamer begins the return-voyage, skirting the Litorale Sant' Erasmo, once famous for its pine-forests, and passing through the Porto dei Tre Porti, the most N. entrance to the lagoons. It then passes the Porto di Lido (p. 353), the chief entrance, protected since 1894 by a mole nearly 2 M. in length. Since the days of Doge Pietro Orseolo II. (991-1008) this was the scene of the Blessing of the Sea and of the symbolical marriage of the doge with the Adriatic, which took place annually on Ascension Day (comp. p. 395). We pass through the narrow channel between the strongly fortified N. end of the Lido and the island of Le Vignole (market-gardens), with the picturesque Renaissance Forte Sant' Andrea, begun in 1544 by Sanmicheli (p. 300) of Istrian marble but not completed until 1571. At the Certosa (p. 415) we come once more in sight of San Michele and Murano.

53. From Venice to Belluno viâ Treviso. 72 M. RAILWAY in 312-414 hrs. (express - fares 14 fr. 85, 10 fr. 40, 6 fr. 75 c., ordinary fares 13 fr. 50, 9 fr. 45, 6 fr. 10 c.). Carriages are changed at Treviso. The line is being continued to Tai di Cadore (p. 418).

From Venice to (181/2 M.) Treviso, see pp. 418, 419. Our line runs thence to the N.W. viâ (25 M.) Postioma to (31 M.) Montebelluna (495 ft.; Alb. alla Stazione), a town with 4300 inhab., on the skirts of the Alps. Hence to Padua, see pp. 330, 329.

36 M. Cornuda (530 ft.; Alb. alla Posta, good) has 2300 inhabitants. Splendid view from the Madonna della Rocca, 4 hr. to the N. on the Feltre road.

Near the village of Masèr, 40 min. to the S.E. of Cornuda by the Bassano road (p. 27), lies the *Villa Giacomelli (open April-Oct. only), often called Vila Masèr, erected by Palladio (1565-80) and celebrated for its Frescoes by Paolo Veronese. These, executed in 1566-68 for the Venetian patrician Marcantonio Barbaro and ranking among the master's best works, consist of mythological representations and scenes from social life, grandly conceived, while some of the illusive figures so common in the later period of art are introduced. Thus, by the entrance, a girl and a page, who through a half-opened door apparently watch the persons entering. In the dining-room, upon its fantastically painted architecture, are seated Ceres with her train and Cupids. The ceiling of the great hall is decorated with the Council of the Gods and the Feast of the Gods on Mount Olympus. The chapel attached to the villa contains stucco-work by Al. Vittoria.

Beyond Cornuda the line skirts the right bank of the Piave, among the foothills of the Alps. 46 M. Quero-Vas. We pass through the narrow valley of the Sonna, at the E. base of the Monte Tomatico (5240 ft.).

53 M. Feltre (850 ft.; Hôt. Doriguzzi - Belvedere, near the station, R. 21/2-31⁄2, omn. 11⁄2 fr.; Alb. Tre Corone), the Feltria of the Rhætians, an ancient town (5500 inhab.), the picturesque old part of which lies on a hill (1065 ft.). In the Cathedral is the high-Renaissance tomb of Matteo Bellati, by Tullio Lombardi (1528). The modern Venetian-Gothic Palazzo Guarnieri, in the Piazza, the ruinous old Castle (fine view; fee), and the Romanesque Santuario Santi Vittore e Corona (12th cent.) may be noted.

A road (electric tramway projected) leads from Feltre viâ Fonzasó to Primolano (p. 27) and Primiero; comp. Baedeker's Eastern Alps. The railway runs to the N.E., through the broad and fertile valley of the Piave. 70 M. Sédico-Bribano (Excelsior Villa Patt Hotel; Alb. Agordino).

72 M. Belluno.

RAILWAY STATION (Restaurant) at the W. end of the town. HOTELS. Gr.-Hôt. des Alpes, at the station, 60 R. at 3-6, B. 11/2, L. 31/2, D. 5, P. from 8, omn. 1 fr.; *Hôt. - Pens. Cappello, Via Carrara, at the Piazza Campitello, R. 21/2-4, P. 7-9 fr.; Alb. Leon d'Oro. POST OFFICE, Piazza Castello.

Belluno (1280 ft.; 6900 inhab.) the Bellunum of the Romans and the capital of a province, is situated on a hill at the confluence of the Ardo and the Piave. The town, which belonged to Venice after. 1404, still presents all the features of a Venetian town.

The Contrada Loreto leads to the S.E. from the station to the spacious Piazza Campitello, the centre of the town, and thence through the Porta Castello or Porta Dante to the Piazza del Duomo. The early-Renaissance Cathedral, erected after 1517 from the designs of Tullio Lombardi, was restored after an earthquake in 1873. The façade is unfinished. In the right aisle are good altar-pieces by Iac. Bassano (Martyrdom of St. Lawrence) and Palma BAEDEKER'S Northern Italy. 14th Edit.

27

Giovane (Pietà). The campanile (217 ft. high), built by Fil. Iuvara in 1732, commands a beautiful prospect. In the Piazza del Duomo stand also the Palazzo dei Rettori (now the Prefettura), a fine earlyRenaissance building of 1496 by Giov. Candi (p. 369), and the Museo Civico, with a collection of paintings, bronzes, coins, etc.

From the Piazza del Mercato Vecchio, to the W. of the Piazza del Duomo, the Contrada San Pietro leads N.E. to the church of San Pietro (wood-carvings by Andrea Brustoloni in the left aisle), and the Contrada Mezzaterra N.W. to the Porta Doiona and the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele Secondo, adjoining the Piazza Campitello. An antique sarcophagus adorns the small piazza in front of the Gothic church of Santo Stefano (1480-86), a few yds. to the N.

Above Ponte nelle Alpi (see below), 41/2 M. to the N.E. of Belluno (motor-omnibus from the station in 20 min.), is the health-resort of Venadoro (1600 ft.; Stabilimento Climatico Idroterapico, 200 beds at 21/2-8, B. 11/4, L. 3-31/2, D. 4-41/2, board 6-7 fr., open June-Sept. only).

The Col Visentin (5790 ft.; Rifugio Budden), 6 hrs. to the S. of Belluno, commands a splendid view of the Alps and the broad Venetian plain with the sea in the distance.

FROM BELLUNO TO CORTINA, 4612 M., motor-diligence twice daily in 412 hrs. Railway to Pieve di Cadore under construction (opened in 1912 as far as Longarone). The line skirts the right bank of the broad gravelly channel of the Piave. 5 M. Ponte nelle Alpi or Capo di Ponte (1300 ft.); a highroad diverges hence to Vittorio (comp. p. 421). Farther on the railway skirts the E. base of the Monte Serva (7000 ft.) and reaches (111/2 M.) Longarone (1555 ft.; Posta, Roma, both good), the present terminus of the line. Beyond Longarone the highroad traverses a ravine to (221/2 M.) Perarólo (1745 ft.; Corona d'Oro), describes a wide curve in the valley of the Boite round the Monte Zucco (3930 ft.), and ascends to (281/2 M.) Tai di Cadore (2725 ft.; *Hôt. Cadore), where it forks. The right branch leads to (30 M.) Pieve di Cadore (2885 ft.; Hôt. Progresso, R. from 21/2 fr., Angelo, both Italian), the capital (700 inhab.) of the Cadore district and the birthplace of Titian (p. 351), beautifully situated on a mountain-spur high above the Piave. The left branch ascends the valley of the Boite to Cortina. 3012 M. Valle di Cadore (2695 ft.), with a fine retrospect of the Cadore Alps; 33 M. Venas (2820 ft.), at the S. base of the Monte Antelao (10,710 ft.); 38 M. Borca di Cadore (2980 ft.; Palace Hôtel des Dolomites, of the first class; Alb. Pelmo; Tre Corone); 391/2 M. San Vito di Cadore (3315 ft.; Hôt. Marcora; Alb. Antelao). Thence we skirt the S.W. base of the Sorapis (10,595 ft.), pass the Dogana (3660ft.; Italian custom-house), and reach (44 M.) Acquabona, the first Tyrolese village, with the Austrian custom-house. 4612 M. Cortina d'Ampezzo (4000 ft.); comp. Baedeker's Eastern Alps.

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From Belluno to Agordo by the valley of the Cordevole (electric railway projected), see Baedeker's Eastern Alps.

54. From Venice to Udine (Pontebba) viâ Cividale.

Treviso.

841/2 M. RAILWAY. Train de luxe (Vienna-Cannes Express, see p. 30) in 21 hrs. (fare 23 fr. 50 c.); express in 3 hrs. (17 fr. 40, 12 fr. 15, 7 fr. 90 c.); ordinary train in 33/4-41/2 hrs. (15 fr. 80, 11 fr. 5, 7 fr. 10 c.). From Venice to (5 M.) Mestre, see p. 330. here to the N. from those to Padua and Trent.

Our line diverges 12 M. Mogliano.