About 112 M. to the W. of Venegono Superiore, and 51⁄2 M. to the S.E. of Varese (comp. p. 222; tramway to Bizzozero and carr., see p. 221), is Castiglione Olona (1055 ft.), on the Olona, with 1900 inhab. and some interesting works of art. In the main street (Via Vittorio Emanuele Secondo) is the Casa Castiglioni, the house of Cardinal Branda Castiglioni (d. 1443), a brick building with a handsome Gothic window and portal. A few paces off, at the approach to the collegiate church (Via Cardinal Branca), lies the Chiesa di Villa or Chiesa del Corpo di Cristo, a large building in the style of Brunelleschi (p. 560), probably the oldest earlyRenaissance edifice in Lombardy, with an elegant portal and the tomb of Guido Castiglioni (d. 1485). The Gothic COLLEGIATE CHURCH, situated high up above the wooded gorge of the Olona, contains, in the choir, frescoes (mostly much injured) painted about 1428 for Card. Castiglioni by Masolino of Florence, the master of Masaccio (pp. lv, 631): at the sides of the windows, scenes from the lives of SS. Stephen and Lawrence; on the vaulting, Annunciation, Marriage of the Virgin, Birth of Christ, Adoration of the Magi, Assumption of the Virgin, and Coronation of the Virgin; on the left is the monument of Card. Castiglioni by Leonardus Griffus (1443). The sacristy contains valuable church-furniture, incl. an ivory reliquary of the 8th cent. (?). The sacristan (1/2-1 fr.) conducts visitors across the court to the BAPTISTERY, which also is richly adorned with *Frescoes by Masolino (scenes from the life of John the Baptist; about 1435). Those on the entrance-wall (Angel appearing to Zacharias) and on the N. wall (1.) are almost completely destroyed. On the choirwall: John preaching Christ as the Messiah; *Baptism of Christ (the three figures undressing themselves to the right are interesting indications of the awakening study of the human form); John preaching before Herod; above, on the vaulting, God the Father between angels. On the S. wall: John in prison; the daughter of Herodias begging the head of John the Baptist and bearing it to her mother. The rocky cave in the background contains the saint's tomb; on the vaulting, the Evangelists.

The train now enters the Varesotto (p. 220), crosses a viaduct, and reaches (281/2 M.) Malnate (1150 ft.), the junction of the ComoLaveno line (p. 202). We cross the valley of the Olona by a lofty viaduct. Beyond a tunnel we cross another ravine.

312 M. Varese (p. 220), the junction of the electric railway from Milan to Porto Ceresio viâ Gallarate (R. 34).

S.

The railway, traversing a tunnel, sweeps round Varese on the 3312 M. Varese-Casbeno, the station for the Excelsior Hôtel (p. 220). Farther on view of the Lago di Varese (1.; p. 222) and the distant Monte Rosa. The lake comes fully into sight beyond (3612 M.) Barasso-Comerio. We descend to (381/2 M.) Gavirate (930 ft.), near the N.W. extremity of the Lago di Varese. In the vicinity are quarries of 'marmo maiolica', a kind of marble used for decorative purposes. To the Isolino, see p. 222.

In the foreground to the left is the Monte Mottarone (p. 238). 4112 M. Gemonio (1015 ft.), with villas. Farther on the Boesio, which waters the Valcuvia, is crossed, and beyond (43 M.) Cittiglio its right bank skirted. The line then leads past the S. base of the precipitous Sasso di Ferro to

451 M. Laveno (p. 233), on the E. bank of Lago Maggiore, a station on the Bellinzona and Genoa line (p. 225) and also a steamboat-station. Boat to the Borromean Islands, see pp. 236, 233.

225

36. From Bellinzona to Genoa.

RAILWAY to (155 M.) Genoa, express in 7-8 hrs. (fares 31 fr. 90, 22 fr. 45, 13 fr. 75 c.), ordiuary trains in 13 hrs.: to (25 M.) Luino in 1-1 hr. (fares 4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 10 c.); to (34 M.) Laveno in 11/2-23/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 40, 4 fr. 50, 2 fr. 90 c.). Best views to the right.

Oleggio is the junction of the extension of the Simplon Railway (R. 2) from Arona to Genoa. At Mortara our line is joined by another coming from Milan, on which some of the through-trains from Milan to Genoa run. FROM MILAN TO GENOA, 1061/2 M., in 61/2-73/4 hrs. (fares 19 fr. 75, 13 fr. 85, 8 fr. 90 c.); express in 41/4-5 hrs. (21 fr. 15, 14 fr. 80, 9 fr. 60 c.).

Bellinzona, see p. 9. Railway to (51/2 M.) Cadenazzo, where the Locarno line diverges, see p. 227. At (10 M.) Magadino (p. 230) the train reaches the Lago Maggiore, and skirts its E. bank (views to the right; comp. the Map, p. 230). Opposite lies Locarno (p. 227). Beyond (14 M.) Ranzo-Gerra (opposite Brissago, p. 231) we cross the Dirinella, the Italian frontier.

17 M. Pino-Tronzano, the first Italian station. The bank becomes steep and rocky; numerous tunnels, cuttings, and viaducts. Delightful views of the lake to the right; opposite lies Cannobio (p. 231), and farther on is the promontory of Cannero, with its picturesque castles (p. 232). Near (21 M.) Maccagno (p. 231) the train crosses the Giona.

25 M. Luino, an international station, with Swiss and Italian custom-houses, see p. 232. To Lugano, see R. 33; to Varese, see p. 223.

The line crosses the Tresa (p. 232). 29 M. Porto-Valtravaglia (p. 232). Beyond a tunnel under the castle of Caldè (p. 232) we skirt the bay of Calde (opposite Intra, p. 233) and enter the Tunnel of Calde, 1/4 M. long, penetrating the Pizzoni di Laveno (p. 233).

34 M. Laveno (Stazione dello Stato) is the steamboat - station for Pallanza, Baveno, Stresa, and the Borromean Islands, and the starting-point of the State Railway to Gallarate and Milan and of the Northern lines to Varese, Saronno, and Milan, and to Varese and Como (see p. 233).

The last

The line quits the lake for a short distance. - 361, M. LeggiunoMonvalle; 402 M. Ispra (720 ft.), on a promontory (opposite Belgirate and Lesa, p. 239), near the Punta d'Ispra. glimpse of the lake is obtained beyond (432 M.) Taino-Angera. Opposite lies Arona (p. 239).

47 M. Sesto Calende, at the efflux of the Ticino from the lake, junction for the Simplon Railway (R. 2). A handsome iron bridge, with two roadways (the lower for the railway, the upper for the Simplon road), here spans the Ticino. The railway to Arona (p. 239) diverges to the right on the other side of the river.

We follow the right bank of the Ticino. 51 M. Porto-Varalpombia; then a long tunnel. 53 M. Pombia.

5612 M. Oleggio (760 ft.), a little town with 3100 inhab., is the junction of the branch-line to Arona and Genoa (p. 5).

A glimpse of Mte. Rosa is obtained to the right. Flat country. 67 M. Novara (p. 83), junction for Milan and Turin (R. 17). Beyond (7712 M.) Borgo-Lavezzaro we traverse rice-fields. 82 M. Mortara (355 ft.; Alb. Tre Re), with 7300 inhab., is the chief place in the Lomellina. The Gothic church of San Lorenzo contains an unskilfully restored carved altar of the Renaissance (16th cent.) and pictures by Lanini and Gaud. Ferrari. The Austrians defeated the Piedmontese here on Mar. 21st, 1849.

At Mortara the direct line to Milan diverges. FROM MILAN TO MORTARA, 3212 M., in 11/2-2 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 25, 2 fr. 75 c.; express 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 5 c.). We start from the Central Station, and pass Milano Porta Ticinese (Pl. B, 8) and Abbiategrasso (395 ft.; Alb. San Giuseppe), with a *Church by Bramante (1497). We cross the Ticino to (2412 M.) Vigevano (380 ft.; Falcone), a town of some importance in the silk-trade, with 18,000 inhab. and a spacious market-place (Piazza Ducale or del Duomo), dating from the reign of Lodovico il Moro (p. 151), the arcades of which still exhibit traces of early-Renaissance decorations (perhaps by Bramante). The Gothic Castello, practically rebuilt by Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci in 1492, has an elegant Renaissance loggia by Bramante (in the upper story of the court); the upper portion of the main tower is a copy of the Castello tower at Milan (p. 173). Steam-tramway from Vigevano to Novara (p. 83). 3212 M. Mortara.

Mortara is also the junction for the VERCELLI-PAVIA line: 42 M., in 3-334 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 80, 5 fr. 45, 3 fr. 50 c.). Stations unimportant. Vercelli, see p. 82; Pavia, see p. 240. From Mortara to Asti, see p. 61.

9212 M. Sartirana (325 ft.); 961/2 M. Torreberetti (290 ft.), the junction of the Pavia and Alessandria line (p. 243).

To the left the chain of the Apennines forms a blue line in the distance. The train crosses the Po. 100 M. Stazione di Valenza, junction for Vercelli and Alessandria (p. 83), lies 11⁄2 M. to the N.W. of Valenza (410 ft.), with 10,000 inhab. and a cathedral of the 16th century. Tunnel 11 M. in length, piercing the Monferrato, the name given to the wine-growing outliers of the Colli Torinesi (p. 36). 10312 M. Valmadonna; several prettily situated little towns (e.g. San Salvatore Monferrato, p. 62) lie on the chain of hills to the right. The Tánaro is then crossed.

10811⁄2 M. Alessandria, and thence to (155 M.) Genoa, see R. 13c.

2

37. Lago Maggiore.

PLAN for a circular tour round the three lakes, see p. 203. The finest part of the Lago Maggiore is the W. bay, with the Borromean Islands, which are best visited from Pallanza, Stresa, or Baveno by small boat, though the hurried traveller may accomplish the excursion by steamer.

Railways (stations are denoted by a capital R in the following description). FROM BELLINZONA TO LOCARNO, 1311⁄2 M., in 3⁄4/4 hr. (fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15 c.). Through-tickets incl. the steamboat on the Lago Mag giore are issued for Pallanza (5 fr. 90, 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 15 c.) and other points. FROM BELLINZONA TO SESTO CALENDE VIA LUINO, 47 M., in 2-8 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 15, 6 fr. 45, 4 fr. 30 c.). Sce R. 36.