Castagnola, see p. 14). The next station, also on the steep S. slope of Monte Brè, is Lugano-Castagnola (p. 13). The steamer then traverses the pretty bay of Lugano, on the S. side of which the Mte. San Salvatore rises conspicuously.

Lugano, see p. 9. The station of the St. Gotthard Railway lies high above the town, 1 M. from the Lugano-Centrale pier.

As we leave Lugano, we enjoy a fine retrospect of the town and Mte. Brè. The steamer rounds the promontory of San Martino (p. 14) and calls at Campione, an Italian enclave in Swiss territory. This village was the home of the Lombard sculptors of the 13-14th cent. known as the 'Campionesi'. The church of the Madonna dell' Annunziata contains some 14th cent. frescoes of the Lombard school (Life of John the Baptist). Fine retrospect of the Alps to the N.; to the left rise the steep flanks of Mte. Generoso (p. 17). The boat now passes, with lowered funnel, through an arch of the Ponte Diga (p. 16) and generally touches both at Bissone (p. 16) on the E. bank and at Melide (p. 16) on the W. bank.

At this point a fine view is obtained to the left of the S.E. arm of the lake (Lake of Capolago, see p. 16), which the Punta di Poiana, a spur of Mte. San Giorgio (see below), separates from the W. arm. The steamer enters the latter (to the left, Brusin Arsizio) and stops at Morcote (Pens. Olivella), a small town picturesquely situated at the S. angle of Monte Arbostora (2710 ft.) and commanded by the church of Madonna del Sasso and a ruined castle (1560 ft.). The church of the adjacent (N.E.) village of Vico Morcote (1415 ft.) contains interesting sculptures.

The steamer now crosses the lake to the small bay of Porto Ceresio (Alb. Ceresio, plain), situated on Italian soil (electric railway to Varese and Milan, see R. 34).

A bridle-path ascends to the N.E. to (1/2 hr.) Serpiano (2290 ft.; Alb. Serpiano), charmingly situated among woods and meadows at the foot of Monte San Giorgio (3590 ft.), and commanding a beautiful view of the Lake of Lugano (road from Mendrisio viâ Meride under construction; see p. 17).

The steamer turns to the N. and reaches the W. part of the lake. To the left, in Italy, lies Brusimpiano (Alb. Parini), where Mte. San Salvatore again comes into sight to the N.E.

The boat passes to the left of the Lake of Agno (p. 220), the background of which is formed by Mte. Bigorio, Mte. Tamaro, and other summits, and steers through the Stretto di Lavena, a narrow channel leading into the westernmost bay of the lake. To the left is the village of Lavena, to the right, the barren Monte Sassalto (1740 ft.), formerly an island. At the W. end of the bay is

Ponte Tresa, consisting of two villages, the larger of which is Swiss and the smaller Italian, divided by the river Tresa, which issues from the lake here. The railway station and steamboat pier are on the Italian side (left bank). On the Swiss side is the Albergo Crivelli (R. from 1 fr.).

The LIGHT RAILWAY FROM LUGANO TO PONTE TRESA (7 M.; see p. 217) passes Sorengo (1157 ft.), descends past the small Lake of Muzzano (1120 ft.) to the (11/2 M.) Cappella di Viglio, and, turning to the right along the hillside, to (312 M.) Bioggio (467 ft.; see p. 15); thence through the broad valley of the Agno (p. 9) to the small town of (434 M.) Agno (970 ft.; Ristorante Boffa), on the arm of the Lake of Lugano named after it (p. 219). Farther on we pass (61/4 M.) Magliaso (950 ft.; Pens. Helvetia, P. 41/2-5 fr., good; to Novaggio, see p. 15) and cross the Magliasina tó (612 M.) Caslano and (7 M.) Ponte Tresa.

From Ponte Tresa to Ghirla (Varese), see p. 223.

The LIGHT RAILWAY FROM PONTE TRESA TO LUINO descends along the left bank of the rapid and clear Tresa, which here forms the boundary between Italy and Switzerland. Several villages and churches are seen perched on the hills. Beyond the station of (312 M.) Cremenaga (830 ft.) the train passes through two tunnels. At Ponte Cremenaga (motor-diligence, see p. 217) it crosses the river, the precipitous right bank of which is now also Italian. 6 M. Creva (745 ft.), with manufactories. Crossing the BellinzonaGenoa line (R. 36; station to the left), we arrive at (8 M.) Luino, where the station adjoins the Lago Maggiore steamboat-quay (see p. 232). 34. From Milan to Porto Ceresio, on the Lake of Lugano, viâ Gallarate and Varese.

4612 M. ELECTRIC RAILWAY (Ferrovie dello Stato) in 11/4-1/4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 50, 2 fr. 25 c.); to (372 M.) Varese in 1-2 hrs. (fares 3 fr. 30, 1 fr. 65 c.). Return-tickets to Lugano 8 fr. 45, 4 fr. 55 c. (Sun. & holidays 71 & 4 fr.); from Lugano to the Sacro Monte 5 fr. 95, 3 fr. 95 c. (4 fr. 65, 3 fr. 40 c.). The trains start in the Via Galileo Galilei (Pl. F, 1; tramway No. 5, see p. 154), beside the Central Station. Heavy luggage is accepted on the 'B' trains only. The trains are much overcrowded on Sun. and holidays and on Sat. evenings in summer. Both the Swiss and the Italian custom-house examination takes place on the steamer. Comp. the Map, p. 226.

From Milan to (25 M.) Gallarate, where the Simplon Railway diverges, see p. 6.

FROM GALLARATE TO LAVENO, 20 M., railway in 3/4-1 hr. (fares 1 fr. 80, 90 c.; from Milan, in 2-21 hrs., 3 fr. 90, 1 fr. 95 c.). 10 M. TernateVarano-Borghi, on the little lake of Comabbio (795 ft.). 15 M. Beso220 (850 ft.). 20 M. Laveno, see p. 233.

Our line runs to the N. through the fertile moraine hills of the Varesotto. 302 M. Albizzate; 35 M. Gazzada (1230 ft.), in a lofty situation, with the Villa Cagnola. As the train proceeds we enjoy a beautiful view, to the left, of the Lake of Varese and Varese with the Monte Campo dei Fiori in the background.

3712 M. Varese. Railway Stations. 1. Stazione Ferrovie dello Stato, to the E. of the town. 2. Stazione Ferrovie Nord Milano, 350 yds. to the N.E. of the foregoing, for the Milan-Laveno (R. 35) and Como-Laveno lines (p. 202). -3. Stazione delle Béttole, on the N. side of the town, for the electric railway to Luino (p. 221).

Hotels. *EXCELSIOR GRAND-HÔTEL VARESE, a large establishment, 3/4 M. to the W. of the town, near the station of Casbeno (p. 224), with a beautiful garden and a splendid view of the W. Alps, R. from 5, B. 1/2, L. 41/2, D. 5%, P. 10-16, omn. 11/2 fr. (closed Dec. Mar. 15th). In the town (rooms must be ordered in advance during the races, in Sept.): EUROPA,

Via Luigi Sacco 2, R. from 21/2, P. from 7, omn. 3/4 fr., ITALIA, Corso Roma, with small garden, R. 21/2-4, P. 7-9, omn. 3/4 fr., both Italian, with restaurants; ANGELO, Via Alessandro Manzoni 10, CENTRALE, Corso Vittorio Emanuele Secondo 41, both quite unpretending. Cafés (Cavour, etc.) under the arcades in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele Secondo.

Post & Telegraph Office, in the Municipio (see below).

Cabs. One-horse carr. per drive in the town 1 fr., to Castiglione (p. 224), with a stay of 1-2 hrs., about 6 fr. (bargain necessary).

Electric Tramways (generally crowded on Sun.). 1. From the Stazione Ferrovie Nord, via the Piazza Porcari, the Piazza Beccaria, Bettole, (2 M.), and Robarello, to (1/2 hr.) the Prima Cappella, below the Madonna del Monte (every 10-20 min.; fare, up 50, down 30 c.). 2. From the Stazione dello Stato viâ Casbeno to Bobbiate, ev. 40 minutes. 3. From the Stazione dello Stato, viâ the Piazza Porcari and the Via Luigi Sacco, to Masnago, ev. 20 minutes. 4. From the Stazione dello Stato to Bizzozero, ev. 20 minutes. 5. From the Stazione dello Stato to Azzate. Wire Rope Railways (Funicolari). 1. From Vellone (at the Prima Cappella, see above) to the (25 min.) Monte Tre Croci, ev. 20 min. (fare 1 fr. 70, down 60 c.; from Varese 2 fr. 20, 90 c.). 2. From Vellone to the (13 min.) Sacro Monte, ev. 20 min. (faré 1 fr., down 40 c.; from Varese 1 fr. 50, 70 c.).

Golf

Electric Railway from Bettole (see above), viâ Ghirla and Cunardo, to (1512 M.) Luino (p. 232) in ca. 1 hr. (fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 35 c.). Anglican Church Service in the Grand-Hôtel Varese. Course (9 holes) near the Grand - Hôtel. English Physician (in summer), Dr. Hubert Higgins, Via Staurenghi 3.

Varese (1250 ft.), a thriving town with 7700 inhab. and silk, leather, carriage, and other manufactories, contains a Kursaal, a Stadium, and numerous summer-villas of Milanese families. The environs are charming, and the summer-heat is endurable.

The Via Orrigoni and the Via Emanuele Morosini lead from the rail. station to the Piazza Venti Settembre. Here begins the busiest line of thoroughfares, consisting of the Via Garoni, the Corso Roma, and (beyond the small Piazza Porcari) the (r.) Corso Vittorio Emanuele Secondo. Behind the arcades of the last, in the small Piazza San Vittore, is the church of San Vittore, rebuilt in 1580-1615 after a design by Pellegrino Tibaldi, with a façade by L. Pollack (1795). Fine *View from the campanile (1617-1773), 236 ft. in height (ticket from the sexton; 277 steps; ascent dark and fatiguing). Adjoining is an ancient Baptistery.

In the Via Luigi Sacco, to the left, near the Piazza Porcari, is the Municipio, formerly named La Corte, built for Duke Francis III. of Modena in 1775. In the right wing is the Museo Civico, a collection of prehistoric and Roman antiquities. The Giardino Pubblico, formerly the palace-garden, is laid out in the old Italian style; fine view of the Lake of Varese and the W. Alps, with Monte Rosa, from the top of the wooded ridge.

The Villa Litta Modignani, in Biumo Inferiore, a little to the N. of the N. Station, still bears traces of a skirmish fought here in 1859 between Garibaldi and the Austrians. In Biumo Superiore, halfway between Biumo Inferiore and Bettole (see above), are the attractive Villa Ponti and Villa Litta.

The most attractive excursion from Varese is that to the *Monte Tre Croci (3555 ft.), which is ascended by a motor road and also by a WIRE ROPE RAILWAY (p. 221), 990 yds. long, opened in 1911. The lower station of Vellone (2070 ft.) lies beyond the short tunnel at the electric tramway terminus of Prima Cappella (p. 221). The upper station of Campo dei Fiori (3385 ft.), near which are a large hotel and some new villas, is 8 min. below the bare summit of the mountain (marked by a cross). The view is famous. It includes the small lakes of Comabbio, Monate, and Biandronno, the Lago di Varese, two arms of the Lago Maggiore, part of Lake Como, the Brianza, the Bergamasque Alps, and the wide, but often mist-covered plain extending past Milan and Novara to the Colli Torinesi (p. 36). The S. horizon is bounded by the long chain of the Apennines; the most prominent features of the W. Alps are Monte Viso, the Graian Alps, and Monte Rosa (morning-light most favourable).

A more comprehensive view, including the glacier-world of S. Switzerland, is obtained from the (13/4 hr.) *Monte Campo dei Fiori (4025 ft.). From the summit a bridle-path descends to the Sacro Monte, running high above the Valcuvia (p. 224) and passing the Punta Pizzella (3070 ft.), a projecting spur on the N. side of the Monte Tre Croci.

Another WIRE ROPE RAILWAY (p. 221), 385 yds. long, opened in 1909 (steepest gradient 57: 100), leads from the station of Vellone to the Sacro Monte (2885 ft.), a rocky protuberance on the S.E. slope of the Monte Tre Croci. The terminus lies beyond the village (Alb. Camponovo), near the former convent (founded 1475) and pilgrimage-church (16-17th cent.) of Madonna del Monte. In the vestibule of the church is a 13th cent. relief of the Madonna; in the dome traces of frescoes of ca. 1500. Picturesque View. From the church a paved path descends to the hamlet of Oronco (1835 ft.; Alb. del Riposo, with garden and view), near the station of Prima Cappella. This path passes a statue of Moses and 14 chapels, adorned with 17th cent. frescoes and groups in painted stucco illustrating the mysteries of the rosary.

OTHER EXCURSIONS. To the S.E. to (21/4 M.) Bizzozero (1240 ft.), by the Milan road, which commands beautiful views of the spurs of the Alps as far as the Lake of Como, of the S. end of the Lago Maggiore, and of the Monte Rosa group (tramway, see p. 222). From Bizzozero we may descend, partly through wood, viâ Lozza (1075 ft.) to (3 M.) Castiglione (p. 224) in the Val d'Olona. To the S. to (18/4 M.) Sant' Albino and Gazzada (p. 220), returning viâ Azzate (1090 ft.; tramway, see p. 221), with its magnificent Alpine view. To the S.W. viâ Casbeno (p. 224) and (114 M.) Bobbiate (1080 ft.; tramway, see p. 221) to Calcinate del Pesce, on the N.E. bank of the Lago di Varese (785 ft.), and thence viâ Oltrona al Lago (970 ft.) and Voltorre (855 ft.; where there is an old Lateranensian monastery with interesting Romanesque cloisters) to (6 M.) Gavirate (p. 224).

To the Colle Campiglio (1485 ft.), 112 M. to the W., on the road to Masnago and Laveno, commanding a fine view; thence viâ (114 M.) Masnago (1345 ft.; tramway, see p. 221) and (21/2 M.) Casciago (1510 ft.; where the Villa Castel barco affords a fine *View of the five lakes and of Mte. Rosa) to (3 M.) Luvinate (1370 ft.), whence a beautiful view is obtained of the Lake of Varese and the small adjacent Lake of Biandronno (790 ft.), and also of the farther distant (S. W.) lakes of Monate (880 ft.) and Comabbio (p. 220). From Luvinate we descend either viâ (334 M.) Barasso (1320 ft.) to the rail. station of Barasso-Comerio or viâ (412 M.) Comerio (1255 ft.) to (6 M.) Gavirate (p. 224). From Schieranna, below Bobbiate (see above), in 1 hr., or from Gavirate in 35 min., across the Lago di Varese by small boat to the Isola Camilla or Virginia, generally known as Isolino (summer-restaurant), with the small Museo Ponti, containing relics of lake-dwellings (custodian at the museum or in Biandronno).

Those who make a longer stay should take the pleasant DRIVE round the Mte. Campo del Fiori viâ Gavirate (p. 224), Cocquio (1045 ft.), Orino (1450 ft.), Brinzio (1665 ft.), and Fogliaro (carr. 8-10 fr., with two horses 16-20 fr.).

The LIGHT RAILWAY TO LUINO (p. 221), at first skirting the highroad, diverges to the N. at Bettole and enters the picturesque Valganna, or upper valley of the Olona. It passes through the Olona gorge, with the (2 M.) shady Grotte di Valganna (restaurant, good beer), and skirts the small Lago di Ganna, on the left, to (6 M.) Ganna (1505 ft.; Alb. Valganna), the chief village in the valley, at the base of Monte Poncione (3258 ft.; view). It then skirts the pretty Lago di Ghirla (1430 ft.; fish abundant; frequented in winter by skaters from Milan) to (72 M.) Ghirla (1475 ft.; Alb. dell' Annunciata), whence a road (41⁄2 M.; electric railway projected; one-horse carr. 5 fr.) runs to the N.E. through the beautiful Marchirolo Valley down to San Pietro and Ponte Tresa (p. 219). The railway descends in windings to the N.W., with superb view of the mountains round the Lago Maggiore, viâ (81/2 M.) Cunardo (1535 ft.), with the Varese electric works and reservoir, and (1012 M.) Ferrera-Camartino to (12 M.) Grantola (820 ft.), in the monotonous Margorabbia Valley. 151/2 M. Luino, see p. 232.

From Varese to Como, see p. 202; to Laveno, see R. 35.

The RAILWAY TO PORTO CERESIO crosses the Ferrovie Nord and then the Olona. 391/2 M. Induno - Olona (1300 ft.), with the Villa Medici. To the left rises the Mte. Monarca (2815 ft.). Tunnel. 412 M. Arcisate - Brenno; Arcisate (1245 ft.; Alb. Marinoni) lies to the left, at the base of the finely-shaped Sasso delle Corna (3390 ft.). The line curves round the Monte Useria (1810 ft.), with its pilgrimage-church. - 43/2 M. Bisuschio-Viggiù.

At Bisuschio (1130 ft.), which lies in the Val Brivio, 1 M. to the W. is the interesting Villa Cicogna, with a large park and a splendid view of the Lake of Lugano. The little town of Viggiù (1625 ft.; Touring Club Hot. Viggiù, good; Angelo, simple) lies 2 M. to the E. of the rail. station (diligence thrice daily) and is commanded by the church of Sant' Elia and by the *Palace Grand-Hôtel Prealpi (1975 ft.; R. 3-8, B. 11/49 L. 3-4, D. 5-6, P. from 8, omn. 111⁄2 fr.; closed from Oct. to April).

We descend into the Val Brivio. In the foreground to the left is a large granite-quarry (paving-stones), at Cuasso al Monte (1640 ft.).

4612 M. Porto Ceresio (p. 219). The rail. station lies close to the Lake of Lugano. Steamer 10 times daily in summer to (3/4-1/4 hr.) Lugano, see pp. 217, 9.

35. From Milan to Laveno, on the Lago Maggiore, viâ Saronno and Varese.

4512 M. RAILWAY (Ferrovie Nord Milano) in 2-23/4 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 25, 3 fr. 55, 1 fr. 80 c.); to (311/2 M.) Varese in 1-2 hrs. (fares 3 fr. 70, 2 fr. 55, 1 fr. 35 c.). For return-tickets, comp. p. 227. - In clear weather this is a very attractive journey (best views to the left).

From Milan to (131/2 M.) Saronno, see p. 198. - As we proceed, we have a fine view to the right of Brunate, the mountains round Lake Como, and Mte. Generoso. 16 M. Gerenzano-Turate. The large Casa Umberto Primo at Turate (785 ft.) is a pensioners' home. 1912 M. Mozzate (tramway to Como, see p. 199).

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221, M. Tradate (1024 ft.). To the left we obtain a grand view of the Valais Alps; in the foreground appear the Mte. Campo dei Fiori (p. 222) and the mountains round the Lake of Lugano. 26 M. Venegono-Superiore-Castiglione (1204 ft.).