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In our engraving in page 168, there is a view of the stately pagoda at Whampoa, which rises to an elevation of 120 feet, and, like other edifices of the kind, is constructed of brick. From its summit there is a fine view of the adjacent mountains, and the extensive and varied navigation of the Canton river; from the declivity of the hill on which the pagoda stands to the edge of the water, extends a flourishing rice plantation. The sampan, or vessel on the left, with its single sail, is of the kind usually employed in conveying tea from the foreign factories at Canton to the ships stationed at Whampoa. When the wind proves unfavourable the sail is lowered, and the boat is rowed by ten or twelve men, who, by the help of bamboo poles, impel her through the water with considerable celerity. These vessels are obviously ill adapted to rough weather; but when a squall arises, the sailors discover admirable courage and dexterity. They have in general been trained to this occupation from early childhood, and are by law restricted from living on shore till they shall have acquired a sum sufficient to purchase a small demesne, including house and garden; a regulation that must certainly operate as a powerful incentive to industry, frugality, and perseverance.

In passing up the river from the Bocca Tigris to Whampoa, the stranger finds much to interest him in the novelty and variety of the scene; and the further he proceeds, the more striking become the indications of his approach to a great trading city. "As our winged Sylph flew along," says an American writer, describing his ascent in a small sailing vessel, "the thick, clustering novelties around us kept continually changing with an almost bewildering velocity,like the almost magical variations of a kaleidescope,-no sameness, all variety. As far as the eye could reach, green fields appeared in endless succession, intersected in every direction by small canals, up which, and far into the interior, might be seen the lofty masts and sails of the sampans, wending their way onward; while small villages, each with a dense and bustling population, were momentarily passing before the eye like a moving diorama. Adjoining these might be seen large tracts of the beautiful and useful bamboo. The shady and rich foliage of the bananas and orangetrees seemed to be ranged in hedges round the cultivated fields. The river appeared to be alive with boats; some fishing, others passing up and down, across, in every direction."

THE RIVER AT CANTON.

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FROM Whampoa to Canton, the river becomes more and more animated at every mile. The banks are enlivened by villages and pagodas; the stream becomes more and more crowded, and the noise and bustle attendant upon an intricate navigation, gradually increase, until the visiter finds himself in the midst of innumerable war-junks and merchant proas, with ten thousand fancifully painted and gay streamers, floating in the breeze." Myriads of boats," says Mr. Reynolds, on each side were moored in long and regular rows, forming channels, through which countless smaller boats were plying to and fro. The noise and bustle of business, combined with the low heavy hum of a million of human voices, dwelt with an eternal vibration on the ear. Here was a junk discharging her cargothere a raft of timber was gliding along-another crosses the Sylph's bows-everywhere are boats of all sizes and colours, and of every description-so numerous, that the surface of the water on which they rested could scarcely be seen between them."

"How wonderful the skili of their conductors! The pilot who steered our little Sylph amid all this crowd, business, bustle, noise, confusion, and the din of a thousand gongs, seemed to thread the mazy labyrinth with the utmost coolness, ease, and security. There is nothing in the known world, that can vie with the novel spirit-stirring interest which this river presents."

with rapidity from one to the other, forming excellent means of telegraphic communication, and from their extending at certain distances up the river, as far as the eye could reach, they are, no doubt, intended for the purpose

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"The number of junks and boats of all descriptions," says Mr. Mac Leod," in motion upon the Tigris, surpasses even the busy scenes upon the Thames. Here, the boats are the only residence of some thousands of families, who live entirely on the water, and manage to obtain a livelihood, some by plying passage, others by fishing, and picking up floating articles, and not unfrequently by exercising their talents like our mud-larkers and river pirates. The pagodas on the banks of the Tigris, are magnificent objects; and the appearance of the river at night, completely illuminated by lamps and lanterns in all the boats, has a very striking effect."

The approach at nightfall is described by Mr. Abeel, as very striking and impressive. "As the shades of evening darkened around us, great numbers of lamps broke through the gloom, and appeared either ranged in rows almost as far as the eye could reach, or changing their position and varying the general aspect, according to the different directions of the moving vessels. The scene was more like magic than reality, and calculated to awaken ideas, or cail up visions, which seldom visit collected minds in wakeful hours. As we approached the city, our progress became more interrupted by the crowds of boats, and when we arrived within a short distance of the landing-place, such was their density, that the men were obliged to work their way through whatever opening they could find or form." The punctilious precision with which the minutest distinctions of rank are observed in China, contributes materially to the variety and animation of the scene; the barge of a mandarin, and of every officer of state, being known by appropriate insignia. Even the lamps which it is customary to hang out at night, are so disposed as to indicate the rank of those on board; " and the reflections from these gaily painted lanterns trembling on the waves, the deep vibrations of the gong, the simple but not ungraceful melodies of the mariners, produce the most pleasing impressions on the mind of the European stranger."

DWELLERS ON THE WATER.

NOTHING is more striking to the stranger on his first arrival at Canton, than the multitude of small boats which are to be seen lining the banks of the river, and are commonly called "egg-house" boats, from the resemblance of their shape to the longitudinal section of an egg. Their length is generally not more than ten or twelve feet, and their breadth six; they are so low that a person can hardly stand upright in them. They are all roofed, if we may use the expression, with an arched covering of bamboo, or matting, shaped like the tilt of a wagon, and each of them is inhabited by a separate family. "They could be often seen," says Mr. Bennett, "containing the young sprawling infant just able to walk, the new-born infant, and the aged grandmother, all reared in this confined space; but, at the same time, the people wore an appearance of happiness and content upon their countenances, in spite of their squalid misery. They keep their boats in a very neat and clean condition, which certainly confers some degree of credit upon the people."-" The very fact," remarks another writer, "that millions are born, and live, (perhaps to an old age,) and die, without ever having touched foot on dry land, and that their ancestors before them, for many generations, were all amphibii like themselves, is enough not only to excite our wonder, but to bewilder the mind with astonishment! We speak of mother earth, from whose bosom we derive our sustenance,-' dust we are, and to dust we shall return.' They are children of the water, the only source from which they derive their miserable nourishment,-and beneath the water they find their final resting-place!"

Such is the multitude and density of these dwellings in some parts, that they often conceal a large surface of the element on which they rest, and appear jumbled together almost in a solid mass. In other places they are regularly arranged, with their sides contiguous, and extend from each shore, so as to leave about a third of the river clear in the middle. Groups of them are often detached from the land, and moored in regular rows, affording the facilities of communication among themselves, and preventing intercourse with the shore. "It is a singular fact," says Mr. Abeel, "that the Chinese look upon those who dwell in boats as a distinct race from themselves. They consider them a low alien people, and refuse to intermarry with them. Tradition says, that they came from outside the mouth of the river. The grandfather of the present emperor, is the first who naturalized them. Before his time they were not permitted to land."

places, near two feet deep of water." The general duration of the typhoons does not exceed twenty-four hours; sometimes it extends to forty-eight.

The late Dr. Morrison, in his View of China for Philo-pened while I was there, and filled our factory, in some logical purposes, published at Macao, furnishes the fol lowing facts with reference to this curious race. "The Tan-hoo, or people who live in boats, in this province, are considered a distinct race, whose origin cannot be traced; fishing was originally their profession. In the fourth century, they amounted to upwards of 50,000 boats; after Tang, (A.D. 631,) they were numbered and taxed. In 1370, they were united along the sides of the rivers, and put under the charge of an officer, called Ho-po-so, The anchoring-place officer,' and paid a tax on fish. In marriage they made no previous betrothment. The man who wanted a wife, placed a platter of straw at the end of his oar, and the female who accepted his offer, did the same with a basket of flowers, after which they were united in singing barbarous songs. Yung-ching, about 1730, allowed them to live on shore and cultivate the land. Poor people on shore, still consider it degrading to marry with them." (See Engraving, page 161.)

By a statement made a few years ago, it appeared that the number of family boats subject to an annual tax, in the vicinity of Canton, is computed at fifty thousand, exclusive of eighteen thousand larger vessels plying between the city and Whampoa.

"Of all the craft of every description, there are very few destitute of shrines, images, or some inscriptions, and the necessary apparatus for their daily offerings. Every morning and evening, and at whatever seasons evils are deprecated, or special blessings craved, they fly to the altar, apply a piece of consecrated paper, oiled for the purpose, to the burning lamp or incense stick, and when it blazes, throw it into the water, and bow to the imaginary spirit of the deep.".

Besides the population living in these floating residences, there are many houses erected on piles, in the stream, and extending a considerable distance from the shore opposite to Canton.

CLIMATE.

ALTHOUGH Canton is situated nearly in the same parallel of latitude as Calcutta, the temperature of the two is very different; in this respect, the Chinese city enjoys considerable advantages, being much cooler. During the Summer, indeed, the heat is extremely great at Canton, as the thermometer sometimes reaches 100° of Fahrenheit in the shade; but the average of the whole year is about 72°. A sudden advance of temperature takes place about March, its effect becoming visible in the stimulus given to vegetation of all kinds. The increasing heat is, however, moderated by frequent rains; so that in the month of May, which is much dreaded in Calcutta, the average temperature of Canton does not exceed 75°. The months of July, August, and September, are the most oppressive and exhausting in the year. "On my first arrival (in July) at Canton," says the author of A Voyage, &c., in 1747, "and for four months after, I found it prodigiously hot, and was as much plagued with musquitoes here, as in Batavia. The Chinese were in their thinnest habit, and never without a fan. The Europeans at this time generally go in their waistcoats, and a white calico-cap, and sometimes with a Chinese fan. For my own part, I could never get a dress light enough; and during my stay there, had always my fan in my hand, by which means I at length arrived at as great perfection in the use of it, as any fine lady in England. When I had a mind for a walk round the walls of Canton, I always carried with me my kito-sol or umbrella, as well as my

fan, otherwise I should have been burnt alive."

This extreme rarefaction of the air at this period of the year, is one of the causes of those terrible hurricanes, called typhoons, which are so much dreaded in the south of China. During these storms the streets of Canton are often overflowed with water," and it is often so deep, that in many places you may scull a small boat. The common people pass from place to place by wading through the water, and those of the better rank are carried in chairs, or on men's backs. Their umbrellas, which were just before used to shade them from the heat of the sun, are now used to keep off the rain. One of these typhoons hap

"The burning of paper (for religious purposes), appears to have been adopted immediately after the abolition of human sacrifices, on the death of Che-hwang-te, who died about one hundred and fifty years before Christ, when he caused his domestics to be put to death and interred with him, to attend upon him in a future state. At present, the consumption of paper which is annually used on all religious occasions, is very considerable, and forms an extensive branch of trade in China."-Indo-Chinese Gleaner.

The

During the three Winter months, the atmosphere of Canton is cold and remarkably dry; at night, the thermo meter occasionally falls below the freezing point. Snow is very uncommon, but there occurred a fall on the 8th of February, last year, when "the natives were surprised," says the Canton Register, "with what must be called, in this city, a phenomenon. The roofs of the houses and the bald-pate woods, were periwigged' with the snow which had fallen during the night. The severity of the Winter in Canton is in some years extreme, and ice is not uncommon, but we do not remember having seen snow in Canton before; the snow lay yesterday morning two inches deep. For the two or three previous days, the weather had changed from an unusual and unseasonable degree of heat, to the temperature of the month. natives consider this fall of snow as a most extraordinary event, and in general they cannot distinguish ice from snow. The last fall of snow which occurred in Canton, was forty-six years ago, in the 55th year of Keenlung. This is remembered by a white-headed old native, who reports that the fall was not so heavy as that of yesterday. When the natives saw the roofs of their houses glittering with one uniform whiteness, they asked,- What is this?" -and called it 'goose-tail, and cotton, (snow.)" The climate of Canton is subject to great and rapid vicissitudes. A sudden atmospherical change very frequently occurs, which certainly cannot be regarded as conducive to health, but, on the contrary, must prove highly detrimental; but from the little ill effects experienced from this by the residents, all that can be said on the subject is that they probably get habituated to the frequent vicissitudes. "I have been one week almost naked," says a writer before quoted, "and plagued to death with gnats and musquitoes; and the next have been obliged to put on coat to cover all, in order to defend me from the cold. At two waistcoats, and an upper coat, and sometimes a great this time the people of China take to their Winter dress, which is lined with furs or quilted cotton."

THE CITY AND THE SUBURBS.

THE general course of the river upon which Canton stands, city it makes a bend to the West, and soon after leaving is from North to South, but shortly before reaching the direction towards the South; thus, in passing by Canton, the city it makes another bend, and resumes its original the Choo-keang runs from West to East, the city being built upon its northern bank. That part of Canton to which the appellation of " the city" is in strictness confined, lies in a compact mass, at a little distance from the river; it is enclosed within a wall, which foreigners are not permitted to pass. Immediately on the outside of this wall are the suburbs, which spread on all sides but the north to a considerable extent; these are open to foreigners, that is to say, the full range of them is not positively interdicted to foreigners, though, in effect, they are prevented from enjoying it beyond a limited extent.

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rounded by a wall, is built nearly in the form of a square, The city proper, or that part of Canton which is surand is divided by a wall, running from East to West, into the old city, the southern part is called the new city. two parts. The northern, which is much the larger, is called According to some foreign, as well as native books, the northern part was once composed, as it were, of three different towns, separated by very fine high walls, but sc conjoined that the same gate served to go out from the one and enter the other." These divisions ceased long ago to exist. The new city was built at a much later period than the old. The Tseang-keun, who is the Mantchoo, or Tartar general, appointed for the defence of Canton, with a garrison of Mantchoo troops under his command, resides in the old city; and in that division also is the office of the Foo-yuen, the governor, or rather lieutenant-governor, of

The Mantchoos are a nation occupying the eastern part of Middle Asia, or the country to the north-east of China; they conquered China in the middle of the seventeenth century, and the emperor now upon the throne of that country is the sixth of the Ta-tsing dynasty, which they founded. Being in their original state a pastoral people, they have been classed by Europeans with the Mongolic nations, and others differing from them in language, &c., under the vague denomination of Tartars, and are sometimes spoken of as the Mantchoo Tartars; they constitute the military nobility of the Chinese empire.

the province of Canton. The Tsoong-tuh, o., as Europeans call him, the "viceroy," who is the chief ruler of the province of Canton, as well as of the adjoining one, and to whom the Foo-yuen of each is subject, or, rather, inferior in rank only, resides in the new city, as does also the Hae-kwan, or "Hoppo," as we call him, who is the principal custom-house officer, or the "Chief Commissioner of the Customs," if we may use the expression, and who ranks as third in the province, though he has no jurisdiction, except in matters concerning trade.

The suburbs, which in their general character are said to resemble the city proper, spread on the outside of this wall towards the West, towards the South, and towards the East; there is nothing but open country beyond the wall towards the North. Towards the West, or up the river from the city, they spread out into the form of an irregular triangle, opening to the N.W., and having for its two sides the river on the South, and the Western wall of the city on the East. On the South they occupy the whole space between the wall and river. On the East they are much less extensive than on the West. There are no

buildings on the outside of the city wall towards the North, except a few small huts near the principal gate. Taken collectively, the suburbs are scarcely less extensive, or less populous than the city within the walls.

According to the learned Dr. Morrison, in the fourth year of the emperor Ying-tsung, or A. D. 1067, "Canton was first walled in at the expense of 50,000 taëls, (about 17,0007.,) surrounding a space of 7 le, about two English miles; previous to that the people lived in the fields. It was done as a defence against the people of Cochin-China, who frequently invaded and plundered Canton."

WALLS AND CANALS OF THE CITY.

THE entire circuit of the walls which surround the two divisions of the city proper, is variously estimated by the Chinese. In an English magazine, published, under the name of the Chinese Repository, in the suburbs of Canton, the writer says, "at a quick step we have walked the whole distance in little less than two hours, and think it cannot exceed six English miles." On the South side, or that turned towards the river, the wall runs nearly due East and West, parallel to the bank, and distant from it perhaps eighty or a hundred yards. On the North, where the city stands partly upon the acclivity of the hills in the rear of the wall, it takes a serpentine course, and its base, at the highest point on the hill, is, perhaps, two hundred or three hundred feet above the surface of the river.

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the city, and another on the west side. Between these two, and communicating with them, there is a third canal, which runs along near the wall, on the north side of the new city, so that boats can enter on the west, pass through the city, and out at the eastern side, and vice versa. There are other canals in the eastern and western suburbs, and one in the southern. Into these large channels a great number of smaller ones flow; these the Chinese call the veins of the city. There are also several reservoirs, but none of them are of great extent. Much of the water for the use of the inhabitants is supplied from the river and canals; wells are frequent. Rain-water is employed also, and for tea, &c., fine wholesome water is plentifully furnished from several springs, which break out on the north of the city, both within and without the walls. There are several bridges, some built of stone, thrown over these canals."

GATES OF THE CITY.

THE gates of the city are sixteen in number; four of them, however, lead through the wall which separates the old from the new city; so that there are only twelve outer gates, each of which is distinguished by a name descriptive of its position. One of these gates is fifteen feet wide and twelve high. A few soldiers are stationed at each of the gates, to watch them by day, and to close and guard them at night. They are shut at an early hour in the evening, and opened again at dawn of day. Except on special occasions, no one is allowed to pass in or out during the nightwatches, but a small fee will usually open the way, though the acceptance of it always exposes the keepers to punish

ment.

Both at the great gate and at the smaller gates, there are persons stationed to prevent foreigners from entering, and if the curiosity of some inquisitive stranger should lead him to step within the forbidden precincts, he is soon compelled to make a speedy retreat. "At one time," says an American writer,

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our party passed a short distance within, but were instantly stopped by the guards; and the multitude all shouted as if something were wrong. Canton within was to all appearance what Canton was without." The stranger may, however, derive some amusement from the scene which presents itself to his eye, through the opening of the gateway. "Several mandarins," says Mr. Bennett, "would occasionally be seen passing in their chairs, as well as some of the superior class of Chinese small-eyed beauties, borne in a kind of sedan, upon the shoulders of coolies."

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The walls are composed partly of stone and partly of The great gate of the city has been oftentimes the witbricks; the former is chiefly coarse sandstone, and forms ness of very curious scenes, arising out of that regulation the foundation, and the lower part of the walls and the of the Chinese government which prohibits Europeans from arches of the gates. The bricks are small, and of a soft holding any direct communication with the great functionIn several places, particularly along the east aries of the state. Foreigners," says one of the edicts, side of the city, the elements have made such inroads on" are not permitted voluntarily to present statements to the the walls, as to afford satisfactory evidence, that before the government; they are indebted to the clemency of the emprowess of a modern foe they would present but a feeble peror for their trade, as also for the permission to tread the resistance." They rise nearly perpendicular, and vary in ground, and to eat the herbs, in common with the Chinese. height from twenty-five to thirty-five, or forty feet. In If, after the publication of this edict, it occurs that foreignthickness they measure twenty or twenty-five feet. They ers presume of their own account to make application, the are higher, and more substantial, on the north side than on viceroy will, on discovery, request his Majesty's permission any other, and are said to be so because, in that direction, to punish them severely." The only course which Eurohostile bands would be the most likely to make an attack. peans are allowed to pursue when they wish to bring any A line of battlements, with embrasures at intervals of a matter under the notice of the government is, to present a few feet, are raised on the top of the wall around the whole statement to the "Hong Merchants," who are a native corcity; these the Chinese call Ching-jin, literally, "city poration recognised by the government, and invested with men," and in the rear of them there is a broad pathway. peculiar privileges and responsibilities; by these persons it There are two "wings," or short projecting walls, which is forwarded, or supposed to be forwarded, to the viceroy. stretch out from the main walls, one at the south-eastern But as most of the grievances of which Europeans comand the other at the south-western corner of the city; these plain, such as overcharge of duties, stoppage of trade, were designed to block up the narrow space between the &c., are sources of profit to the Hong merchants themwalls and the ditches. Through each of them there is a selves, or the results of their own acts, it is not at all surgate, in every respect similar to the gates of the city. There prising that these statements should seldom reach the are some cannon mounted on the walls of the city, but its viceroy; and when, after repeated applications through the fortifications we are told could oppose no effectual resistance prescribed channel, the complaint remains still unattended to European troops and artillery. to, it is naturally concluded that they never have been communicated to that officer. Accordingly, the foreign residents have hit upon a more efficacious mode of proceeding, which they resort to in these desperate cases, and which is nothing less than to invade the city in a body through the great gate, and by creating a disturbance, to attract the attention of the officers within, and perhaps of the viceroy himself." "The gate of the city of Canton," says Mr. Holman, "has invariably, and throughout the whole period of history to which we possess an authentic guide,

"Not a few of the visiters," says the Chinese Repository, " and not a little of the merchandise brought together here, are conveyed into the city by means of canals or ditches. There are several of these; one of the largest of them extends along the whole length of the wall on the east side of

The proper name of this officer, who is appointed immediately by the emperor, is Hae-kwan, or Keen-tuh, and sometimes Kuan-poo; the name Hoppo," which Europeans have given him, is a corruption of Hoo-poo, the name of the "Board of Revenue.",

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been the place where foreigners have made their appeal for justice to the Chinese authorities. Should the publicity be relinquished, it is feared, and not without reason, that justice will be relinquished also."

The execution of this final measure, requires, however, according to Mr. Reynolds, "resolution and numbers united. The communication to be presented is prepared with the utmost secrecy, and the hour of entry fixed; when some dozen or twenty meet, and, with clubs in their hands, move directly for the gate, pushing over, and knocking down everything which comes in their way. They then boldly enter the gate, the guard protesting to the contrary notwithstanding. A tremendous tumult is now created, and every Chinese presents himself as a barrier to their progress. The party then come to a stand, their object being attained; for the authorities hearing that strangers are within the walls, send a messenger to demand the cause, when they present their memorial, certain of its reaching the proper hands. Having thus by violence, and real hazard, effected the object of their visit, they retire from within the wall, and immediately the tumult ceases. On several occasions they have been obliged to resort to this method, which was always successful without a serious accident." Previous to the year 1825, foreigners had no legitimate mode of passing between Canton and Macao without paying irregular fees, to the amount of about fifty pounds, on each trip, which was found so serious a grievance, that it was determined to make a vigorous effort to obtain its discon tinuance. Accordingly, after various petitions were presented, without effect, through the usual channel of the Hong merchants, thirty-seven foreigners, of different nations, resolved to rush into the city, to obtain an audience of the viceroy. On a particular day they set out, and made their way, in spite of all opposition, through the great gate; but although they got a safe footing in the city, they were not sufficiently acquainted with the topography of it to know the exact situation of the viceroy's palace; they therefore went forward at random, and eagerly made for the first large building they saw, which, upon entering, they discovered to be a Joss-house, or temple of" Joo;" observing a soldier run out of it, and supposing that he would go

direct to the viceroy's palace, to repeat the extraordinary circumstance of seeing so many foreigners in the city, they immediately followed him; after a short, but very smart run, they came to another large house, and seeing a number of soldiers in the yard, they made sure that it was the palace. All this was the work of a few minutes; indeed, from their rapid movements, they astonished the Chinese, and were actually in the hall before any of them could assemble to obstruct the passage. Here they soon discovered that they had entered the residence of the commandant of that part of the city; and after a time they were met by the Hong merchants, who used every means of persuasion & nd of artifice, to induce them to retire, the mandarins in the mean while collecting troops to surround and intimidate them. At last, after various ineffectual threats, and a refusal to receive their petition, the Hong merchants agreed, as the dusk of the evening approached, that if the foreigners would quietly and speedily leave the city, they would undertake to have the obnoxious tax wholly removed. With this assurance, the invaders consented to leave the house, promising to bow as they passed to two mandarins, who were sitting at the outer gate. They then quietly departed, but when they came abreast of the mandarins, they were stopped to hear another harangue, which was interpreted by the linguist thus,-" that they were now supposed to have erred though ignorance: but whoever should be again caught within the gates of the city, should be put to death." At the same time, the chief mandarin passed his hand round the neck of one of the British merchants among the body, to intimate that he would lose his head if he should ever venture on a repetition of so audacious a proceeding. On the next day an edict was published, alleging, that each of these foreigners had been tied to a soldier's back, and so carried out of the city, to be placed in custody of the Hong merchants, there to await the punishment due to so heinous an offence!

"It happens, however, sometimes," says a French writer, "that these expeditions terminate to the disadvantage of the assailants; when the Chinese can get a warning of them beforehand, they lie in wait in the neighbouring streets, and in their turn apply the club to the shoulders of the petitioners."

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LONDON: Published by JOHN WILLIAM PARKER, WEST STRAND; and sold by all Booksellers.

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