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Arrival in Servia-Belgrade-First impressions-Passports-
Han-Sketches of the town-Public promenade-Costume
of the inhabitants-Visit to the Pacha of Belgrade-An
awkward retreat-Preparations for a tour in the Land of the
Crescent
.
9
CHAPTER II.
First day's journey in Servia-Miseries of the han-Sketches of
the inhabitants-Their villages and hamlets-Aspect of the
country-Arrival at Hassan-Pacha-Palanka-How to procure
a supper-A characteristic scene-Anecdotes of the Servian
War of Independence-Prince Milosh and Tzerni George-
Intrigues of Russia in Servia-Tragical death of Tzerni
George Traits characteristic of the Servians-Servian war-
song
29
CHAPTER III.
Description of Servia-Wild aspect of its forests-Swineherds-
Abundance of game-German traveller-Arrival at Jagodin-
Singular costume of the peasantry-Improved aspect of the
country-Industry of the inhabitants-Mount Jouor-Gipsy
villages-Miseries of a traveller-Mountain han-A caravan
bivouac Arrival at Alexinitz-Increasing prosperity of the
town-Customs and manners of the inhabitants-The quaran-
tine and its abuses-English friends and hospitality.
CHAPTER IV.
53
Descriptive sketches of Servia-Roads-Turkish fortresses-
Route from Belgrade to Widin-Semendria-Singular foun-
tain at Goulebatz-Mount Mirotsch-Splendid prospect--
Austrian commerce-Hints to merchants-Swineherds in
Servia-Value of pigs-Mineral wealth of Servia-Agriculture
-Productions-Traits and characteristics of the inhabit-
ants.
75
CHAPTER V.
Historical sketch of the Slavonians-Character of the Servians
Their nationality-Present and future prospects-Affinity
between the Servian and Anglo-Saxon races-Concluding
remarks
90
CHAPTER VI.
Warlike tendencies of the Servian nationality-Contrast between
them and the Greeks--Sketches illustrative of their character
-Abilities as legislators-Military system in Servia-State of
education-Finances-Taxes, how levied-Prosperous state of
the Principality-Reflections and general observations
102
CHAPTER VII.
Departure from Alexinitz-Description of a Turkish guard-house
-Rencounter with the recruits of the Nizam-Embarrass-
ments of a traveller in Turkey-Advantages of being a lin-
guist-Frank Bimbashi-His romantic history-Arrival at
Nissa-The great antiquity of that town-Mosques at Nissa-
Their administration-Turks and Rayahs
CHAPTER VIII.
121
Description of Nissa-Some account of its inhabitants-Charac-
teristics of the Turks and the Rayahs-Nissa as a military
position-Its fortifications and fortress-Visit to the castle
of human skulls-Sketch of the Bulgarian insurrection of
1841 134
CHAPTER IX.
Visit to the Pacha of Nissa-The missing Englishman-Italian
doctor-Hospitality of the Pacha-Arnout guard—Crossing
the Balkan-Traces of ancient roads-Aspect of the country
-Splendid view-Ruins of an old Hungarian castle-Karaoul
-Arrival at Orkup-Sketch of the town and inhabitants-
Advantages of an Imperial firman-An agreeable sur-
prize
154
CHAPTER X.
Departure from Orkup-Valley of the Toplitza-A colony of
Arnouts-Sketches of the inhabitants-Novel mode of cross-
ing a river-Thunder-storm-Perilous travelling-Scene at a
mountain han-Hanji cookery-Aspect of the country-An
eventful forest-Bivouac-How to procure a supper and cook
it-A characteristic sketch of national prejudice
168
CHAPTER XI.
Travelling in Upper Moesia-Sketches of the country-Ancient
roads and bridges-Valley of the Morava-Characteristics of
the inhabitants-Their social state-System of self-government
-Their hospitality-Reforms of the Sultan-Fanaticism of
the Turks and Rayahs-Influence of the Christian clergy—
Village entertainment
185
CHAPTER XII.
Spirit of the Greek Church-Superstition-Clergy-Religious
festivals-Singular customs of the people-Traditions-Ri-
valry between the Greek and the Latin Church
204
CHAPTER XIII.
Early history and government of the Greek Church-The re-
forming Kral of Servia-Peter of Russia-Venality of the
Greek clergy-Their revenues-How derived-Abuses of the
Church-Education-Character of the Turks-Greeks and
Slavonians-General observations.
225
CHAPTER XIV.
Taxes-How levied in Turkey-Rayah grievances-Reforms of
the late Sultan Mahmoud-Their consequences-Present con-
dition of Turkey
CHAPTER XV.
248
Political state of Turkey General observations
265
CHAPTER XVI.
Arrival at Vrania-Visit to the Pacha of Vrania-Entertainment
-Arnouts-Military expedition to Bosnia-Crossing the
mountains in Upper Moesia-Turkish bivouac-Arrival at
Pristina-Plain of Cossova-Insurrection in Bosnia and Al-
bania-Mausoleum of Sultan Amurath-Reschid Pacha-
Veli Bey-Bivouac-Arnout tents-Violent tempest-Ruined
castle of the Krals of Servia-Ascent of the Rogosna Planina
-Splendid prospect 274
CHAPTER XVII.
Route between Novi-bazar and Bosna-Serai-Mountains and
defiles of Bosnia-Natural fortifications-Arrival at Bosna-
Serai-The representative system in Bosnia-Municipal rights
of the citizens-Feudalism and Democracy-Fanaticism-
Bosnian renegades-Causes which led to their conversion-
Enlightened policy of the early Sultans of Turkey-Turkish
reform-Its effects in Bosnia-Political state of Bosnia-
English Vice-Consul-His expulsion by the Turks-Impolicy
of placing foreigners in diplomatic appointments—Austrian
Consul-Commerce and political agents-Historical sketches
of Bosnia-Insurrection in Bosnia-Injustice of the Ottoman
Porte-Horrible sufferings of the Slavonian-Mussulmans in
the Stari Vlah-Milosh, Prince of Servia
CHAPTER XVIII.
294
Insurrection of the Slavonian-Mussulmans in Bosnia-Religious
sectarianism in Bosnia-How useful to the Sultan as an instru-
ment of government-Prince Milosh of Servia-Sultan Mah-
moud and his reforms-Effects of his death in Bosnia-
Vehighi, Vizier of Bosnia-Sketch of the Haiducs and the