In a country so depopulated, so frequently the theatre of insurrection, and where the executive is weak, it may be as well to mention that a tour in European Turkey is not without danger. In the mountains, the traveller must be on the look-out for those daring children of the mist-the Haiducs and Ouskoks; he has also to fear the hostility of some rebel band of nonreforming Mahometans in Bosnia and Albania. Again, in the wild districts, he may have to depend upon his gun for a supper, and to submit with all laudable resignation to stretch his weary limbs on the bosom of mother earth. For although there are Hans and Karaouls as resting places, they are so few and far between, that we may ride a long summer's day without finding one, and then they are always so dirty and miserable, that the traveller would do well, if the weather permits, to bivouac in the open air, as the climate is one of the most healthy and delightful in the world.

The want of any direct communication between the various provinces by means of roads, is the first difficulty with which the traveller has to contend; a horsepath is the only substitute, everywhere in the mountains execrable. It is true, we occasionally meet with something resembling a paved road, about two feet in width, of great antiquity, no doubt originally constructed for the use of the pack-horse, that being the only means of transporting merchandise; consequently, the traveller must depend for his conveyance on his skill as an equestrian, and truly a ride across the mountains of

European Turkey may be deemed a neck-breaking exploit. At one time, we are compelled to follow the windings of the bed of a dried-up torrent, at another to ascend the dizzy height of a yawning abyss, or dive into the depths of a gloomy defile, where a false step would be sufficient to plunge horse and rider into eternity. Then the mountainous character of the country renders the climate so variable, that by a few hours' ride we exchange the balmy breezes of the sunny south, for the piercing blasts of the wintry north.

The annoyances of the traveller, who may select these provinces of European Turkey as the theatre of his researches, are not yet enumerated, and one of the greatest is unquestionably the difficulty of holding converse with the inhabitants, composed as they are of so many nationalities, each speaking a different language, or some distinct idiom of its own. In the sea-ports of Albania, and Roumelia, the Italian language will be found useful, and German and Spanish, if the traveller comes in contact with a Jew; but once in the interior, all converse ceases, unless he is acquainted with some dialect of the Slavonian.

Notwithstanding our catalogue of perils and annoyances, the traveller who possesses a good constitution, a little prudence, and the power of assuming a certain bold bearing, mingling the fortiter in re with the suaviter in modo, will not only improve his general health, but find many attractions in this sort of nomadic life. He cannot, it is true, expect any great variety in the companions of his everyday life, but when he does

fearlessly reposes his certain to be treated He must, however,

meet with his fellow-men, and safety in their good faith, he is with kindness and hospitality. throw aside all reserve, abandon all the exclusive prejudices and distinctions of civilized life, for among these democrats of the mountain, and the secluded valley, every man is equal, whether Frank traveller, pandour, or Kiraidji, swine-herd or agriculturist, merchant or caravan driver. If you sit down to enjoy the noon-day meal, it is more than probable that the Haiduc or the Ouskok, the shepherd or the Kiraidji, will sit down by your side, and exclaiming: "Fala bogu dobro!" or "Dobro jutro gospodin !" help himself to your dinner, as unceremoniously as if you had invited him.

It must be understood that these observations apply solely to the Christian population of European Turkey, and more particularly to the Slavonian race of whatever nationality; the Mahometan, whether European or Asiatic, is still exclusive-still regards a Giaour with contempt; when he meets, however, with a Frank who speaks his language, and possesses some quality that recommends him to his notice, he allows his icy reserve to thaw into civility, and fully equals the Christian in rendering all the services to a stranger which genuine hospitality can dictate. In order, however, to acquire the confidence and good-will of both, the traveller must not assume the Turkish costume, for this is not the home of the Osmanli, he is merely encamped in the land of the Christian; consequently he must look for his best friends among the Rayahs, and his character of

Frank is the surest passport to their esteem and regard. Above all, we would recommend the tourist in European Turkey to travel without ostentation, and in choosing his weapons, not to select those that are brilliantly mounted and valuable; a simple carbine, pistols, poniard, and sabre, will not excite attention, since they are the appendage of every man whose rank or profession may entitle him to use them in his defence.

TRAVELS

IN

EUROPEAN TURKEY.

CHAPTER I.

Arrival in Servia-Belgrade-First impressions-PassportsHan-Sketches of the town-Public promenade-Costume of the inhabitants-Visit to the Pacha of Belgrade-An awkward retreat-Preparations for a tour in the Land of the Crescent.

A TINY bark, manned by a party of stout Arnouts, lay waiting in the little port of Semlin, ready to waft us across the broad and rapid Danube. Here then behold us, on the verge of civilization, prepared to exchange its comforts and restraints, its formalities and refinements, its false cravings and high intellectuality, for the hardships, freedom and romance of Eastern travel; and we felt, as we stood for the last time on its northern shore, that the mighty stream now rolling at our feet, forms the line of separation between.