cup; and as to flavour and strength, it far excels any made by our expensive and complicated machines.

Although the quality of the milk of the cow in Bosnia is very rich, you never meet with butter, and rarely with cheese; the cream is thick, and when mixed with honey, forms an important article of food among the better classes. Youart, so well known as a cool, refreshing beverage in a hot country, is made by infusing oak-leaves in milk, which imparts to it a sour taste. Nearly all the culinary preparations are too highly seasoned with red pepper, garlic and onions. One of the most favoured dishes with the traveller from Western Europe is the schish-kiebab, which consists of round pieces of meat cut out of a leg of lamb or mutton, and roasted on a little hand-spit; this, with the kiema-kibab, a species of mutton cutlet, also roasted and never overdone, are excellent.

These demi-Orientals eat only twice a-day, the principal meal is in the evening, about sunset. The repast of the wealthy generally consists of ten or twelve dishes and frequently more; among the sweet dishes, the kaimakdja, a compound of eggs, milk and honey, is always served: also the halan; this is made by the confectioners, and sold in little pots, no Turkish kitchen is without it, and when mixed with

flour, semalina, sugar, honey, rose-water, ginger, and other spices, a quantity of dishes under various names are made from it. They have also a great variety of confectionary, of which the balaclava is one of the most famous; there are likewise jellies, blancmange, and an endless number of preserved fruits: in the preparations of these, the ladies of the harem are very skilful, and bestow upon them much time and labour.

In the higher ranges of the mountains of Bosnia, the peasants, like the Highlanders of Scotland, make oatmeal into cakes and porridge, which they call kasha; in short, wherever we roam in these provinces we find abundance of provisions, and rarely ever an individual who may be said to be in actual want; and although every tribe and commune provides for the necessities of its poor, the kodji-bachis and elders take good care that they shall work so long as they have health and strength. Enter the smallest hut belonging to a Slavonian, however miserable in outward appearance, and you will be certain to find it neat and tidy; in this respect, these people are far superior to the lower class in Ireland, France, and parts of Italy; and no people are more decorous in their manner of eating, particularly the higher classes, notwithstanding the use of knives and forks is not general.

The agriculture of Bosnia is as primitive and patriarchal as that we have already described among their neighbours, the Servians; artificial grasses are never cultivated, consequently, during the great heat and drought of summer, the shepherd is obliged to seek a subsistence for his flocks and herds in the deep dells and mountain prairies. Bees are a source of great profit to the mountaineer; the honey is of a brownish hue, and the wax is said to be excellent; this with wool, tallow, hides, and fruit, are bought up by the Austrian merchant, who is the sole purchaser in these provinces, and whose profits must be immense.

The forests of Bosnia are left to flourish in all their primitive luxuriance, neither government nor people bestowing upon them the slightest care; we see some of the finest oak-trees, half-burned, or cut down to within a few feet of the ground, where the cultivation of the land has been determined on. Every peasant is at liberty to resort to the forest when he requires a supply of firewood. In some places, acres of pines are destroyed merely for the purpose of obtaining the tar. Other provinces, again, such as Thessaly, and parts of Macedonia, where the rocky mountains are bare of tree or shrub, are entirely without firing; yet many of the rivers that flow through these provinces take their rise in

districts abounding with forests which might easily be cut and floated down the streams as rafts.

We have no historical accounts that the mineral riches of Bosnia have been explored, yet several mountains bear the names of their mineral productions, which seems to justify the opinion that they have been at some period made available. For instance, the mountain Zlatovo denotes, in the Slavonian dialect, the mountain of gold; Zrebernitza of silver, Roudnik of copper, Zeleznitza of iron. Dr. Schultz, who was secretly employed, a few years since by the Vizier of Bosnia, Vehighi, found a rich mine of mercury and indications of silver and gold in several places; but whatever advantages might have resulted from the discovery, have been lost, owing to the sudden disgrace and fall of the intelligent Vizier. At Voinitza, between Bosna-Serai and Novi-bazar, there is a forge for smelting iron, and one or two others in the Kraina. Before the Turkish occupation of these provinces, the iron of Bosnia was cheaper and of a better quality than any other in Europe. Hot and cold mineral springs abound in certain districts, and are said to be most efficacious in the cure of some disorders, attracting numerous visitors from the neighbouring towns and even from Constantinople.

CHAPTER XX.

Return to Novi-bazar-Description of that town-Its importance as a military position-Attempt of Tzerni George, of Servia, to obtain possession-Departure from Novi-bazar -Mountain districts of Upper Moesia and Upper Albania -Inhabitants-Villages-Forests-Climate-Contrast between the Servians and the Arnouts of Albania-Dangerous travelling-Description of the country-The chamois and wild goat-Singular species of the tame goat-Arrival at Gousnee-Revolt of the mountaineers in 1847-Predatory warfare between the mountaineers of Tchernegora and the Arnouts of Upper Albania-Their hospitality, and chivalrous behaviour towards the stranger and women.

We returned by the same route from BosnaSerai to Novi-bazar, formerly the capital of the Servian monarchy, and the residence of its earliest Krals, when it was known by the name of Rasci, and said to have been founded by the Rasci, a warlike tribe of Servians, whose descendants still in