CHAPTER XIX.

Character of the inhabitants of Bosnia-Social institutions -Self-government of the people-Its beneficial tendency -Native bards-Music-Superstitions-Similarity between the Slavonians of European Turkey and those of Hungary and Austria-Moral conduct of the people-Marriage ceremony-Mode of burial-Service of the Koran-Customs and manners-Medical science-Prevalent diseasesThe hans in Bosnia-Mode of living-Cookery-State of agriculture-Forests-Mineral treasures in Bosnia-Ironworks-Mineral springs.

IN manners, customs and language, the inhabitants of Bosnia and its sister states, the Kraina and Herzegowina, resemble those of the Servians we have already described, and, like them, whether Christian or Mahometan, display the same generous feeling and hospitality. Even now, notwithstanding the demoralized state of the country, the Frank traveller who refrains from identifying himself with any of

the various religious and political parties that distract the country, may roam in any direction without the slightest danger, and be certain to receive a welcome reception alike from the Mahometan and the Christian. It is true, we occasionally hear of acts of brigandage, but, on inquiry, they generally arise from some political motive. In this respect, the moral character of the Slavonian is superior to that of the Greek; he is not mercenary, and never a robber merely for the purposes of gain. We must not, therefore, give implicit credence to the accounts of the Austrians, who describe Bosnia as a country infested by brigands, since it is the interest of that power that these countries should not be visited by any traveller from the west: the whole of the commerce, such as it is, being in her hands, and the less these provinces are known to the great world, the greater is the hope that she may, at some future period, annex them to her dominions, or at least exercise over them something in the form of a protectorate.

The social organization of the Bosnians is similar to that of the Servian principality, the country is divided into nahias, or circles, and these are subdivided into knejines, or communal tribes, and notwithstanding the numerous insurrections that are continually taking place, these institutions of the

people remain unchanged; each tribe, or tribes, where it cannot be done openly, secretly elect their own chief, and administer the affairs of the community by a representative form of government— a perfect patriarchal republic. In short, the real tendency of the Slavonian inhabitants of European Turkey is the federal system; and whatever may be their ultimate fate, any attempt of a new ruler to introduce among them the bureaucracy and individual administration of other states, would be certain to excite universal discontent.

Like all mountaineers, the Bosnians are much attached to their country, and expatiate with great complacency on the excellence and abundance of its products their grain, their honey, their flocks and herds, all of which they affirm to be unequalled of their kind; nor are they insensible to the picturesque beauty of their luxuriant valleys, dense forests and lofty mountains. Taken altogether, the peasant of Bosnia is more intelligent than the peasant of Western and Central Europe; this is referrible to the nature of their social institutions, which obliges him to examine and decide for himself, and take a part in the discussion of the affairs of the community of which he is a member; whereas, in the majority of the countries of Europe, the Government alone wills and acts, leaving the mind of the people to sink into inertness.

The system of self-government, so general among the Slavonians of these provinces, and which the Turkish Administration of former years in some degree encouraged, leads to a very different result t; hence the traveller hears with astonishment, not only the inhabitants of towns and villages, but the shepherd of the mountain, discuss his subject of complaint, point out the remedy for the evil, and pass sentence of condemnation upon the measures of the Vizier, and the administration of his civil officers, with a perspicuity, moderation and good sense not to be expected, from his imperfect education and want of intercourse with the great world. Again, if these people do not enjoy the advantages of the printing press, they have a not inefficient substitute in their native bards, who are constantly reciting the glorious deeds of their ancestors, and the most important events in the modern history of their country and everyday life.

Of every description of poetry, the bard of Bosnia prefers the epic-of which Tavor, the god of war, is frequently the hero; these poems are sung by the farmer at his plough, the shepherd while attending his flocks and herds, and the women, whether walking, working or dancing. They have also their piesmas-a species of composition between prose and poetry, not unlike the songs of Ossian; these always

record some event in the ancient and modern history of their country. Neither must we forget their love songs, which are very numerous, and generally end with the chorus, "Lelo, Lodo, il lelo, lol, idolo" (the god and goddess of love).

The fairies also occupy a high place in the estimation of these bards; a variety of poetical effusions are devoted to their praise; and the tiny sprites are always painted in the most captivating colours; hence the appellation of vila (fairy) is a term of endearment, applied by a Slavonian alike to his mistress, his horse and his dog. In addition to the good fairies, they have another species much dreaded, and who they never mention without repeatedly crossing themselves, or having recourse to their talisman. Many of the national epic poems, piesmas and lyrical effusions of the Slavonian tribes in Turkey, possess considerable beauty, and if they were collected and translated, would materially tend to elucidate the ancient and contemporary history of the people. The wandering bard with his gousla or his lute, journeys far and wide, the welcome guest at every hut the vices and virtues of the Sultan; the heroic exploits of their chiefs; the martial deeds of the Haiduc; even the political history of the country, is composed and sung by these modern Homers, with the fidelity of the most accurate historian.