NATURAL HISTORY. For the Anthology. EXTRACTS FROM A JOURNAL, &C. CONTINUED. Monday, Sept. 2....WHAT have I heard? What have I felt? What have I seen? A noise, equal to the seven thunders, heard by St. John in the spirit, accompanied with a perpetual earthquake, and a mighty rushing wind; a wonder, to which the sun in his course through the heavens, beholds nothing superiour...the cataract of Niagara. After breakfast we started from Chippeway on foot. The bank of the great river is here not more than four or five feet above the water; but, in our course towards the falls, it appears gradually to 1ise to fifty feet and upwards. The land, on which the road runs, is perhaps a perfect level; of course this high bank shews the descent of the river in its course of two miles before arriving at the immense precipice. About one mile from Chippeway commence the rapids, extending across the river above half a mile; immediately helow, it narrows and its surface is much agitated, although no rocks appear above the water. This is indeed a very beautiful view. Here, where a small part of the stream is divided from the rest by a little island, fast on the bank of the river, man has adventured to erect mills, "scooped out an empire, and usurp'd the tide." A few rods lower, in a similar situation, is the oldest mill in Canada. At all other falls, I have ever seen, the labours of man have tended to diminish the effect on the eye and the mind; but here the consequences of his mightiest efforts have so little influence on the whole, that we are convinced of the majesty of the stream, and that it will forever scorn the confinements of art. About two and a half miles down we turn from the road, and, descending a winding foot path in the precipitous bank of clay, come to the level of the river; and, after walking over a flat, covered with thick bushes and constantly wet by the spray, arrive at Table rock. Just before leaving the road, we had seen the little falls, a sight, worthy of a thousand miles journey; but we are now close to the main body of this indescribable cataract. Table rock is level with the edge of the falls, and only seven or eight rods distant. Here is, in the stillest season, a constant gentle breeze, agitating the leaves of the bushes, while they are continually refreshed by the spray. On our hands and knees we creep to the edge of this rock, and are struck with horrour at beholding nothing to support us. Our guide carries us a rod or two north, as the river runs, and shews us the rock, on which we walked so firmly, which is only three feet thick, and seems to hang in the air, perhaps one hundred and fifty feet or more from the bottom. One of our party swore he never would go on it again. Leaving this spot, we reascend to the level of the road, and walk half a mile through fields, clothed with the most luxuriant grass, to a ladder, called, by Volney, Simcoe's, but it has not usually that or any other name. This ladder is perpendicular, and, as it is affixed to an overhanging tree at the top, seems very dangerous, but others had been before us, and we descend with courage, which we should never exercise at any other place, than Niagara. At the foot of the ladder we find we have not descended half way to the water's edge; and here and all the way up to the great falls, we have to climb over crags of every variety of shape and size. The little falls are opposite to the ladder, but we neither hear nor see any thing, but the immense horse shoe we are approaching. Between the two falls is Goat island, presenting on the north side a perpendicular wall of equal height with the cataracts on each side. The bank on the west side of the river, under which we now were, is perpendicular, but,as we approach the sheet of water, it becomes hollow, and thus, say the traveller's conjectures, is it continued the whole width of the falls, making a cavern, terrifick as incalculable extent, unilluminated vacuity, and eternal roar can make it. The water above, having acquired a powerful impetus, shoots in a curvilinear direction, and thus the hollow space is increased. Into this abyss we all attempt to penetrate. The spray is here condensed into large drops, and the strong gusts of wind drive it like shot, so that we involuntarily bend our heads. We were nearly wet through before, but are now instantaneously. We can hardly consent to leave this seemingly dangerous, and enchanting spot. On the rocks I find a skull of some animal, and bones of others, which have come over the fall; also something, which Weld calls petrified spray or froth, adhering to the rocks in various states of induration. This substance is often no harder than lumps in WestIndia sugar, but is tasteless. When viewing the Horse shoe fall, travellers are always dissatisfied at its apparent height; but this results from its immense breadth, and perhaps half is always invisible, on account of the mist, rising from below. If from Table rock, or at the landing place by the ladder, or at any place between these, we look down, or if from below we view the precipice above, and reflect, that this awful rock is no higher than the cataract, we become easy in a moment. In the morning or evening I suppose the centre of the crescent, or horse shoe, cannot be seen for the spray, not even from Table rock; but when the wind blows this away, we behold at least half the height. A small part, perhaps fifteen feet in width, is separated from the. little fall, and adds much to the effect. We almost wish there were no horse shoe fall, as this is viewed from the head of the ladder; but when a little higher up, the great fall, which is much the greater division of the river, opens upon us, the inferiour fall appears only like the puny infant of a vigorous sire. After refreshing ourselves with some port wine and bread, two of our party were so wearied with magnificence and wet cloaths, as to depart for home. Band myself revisited Table rock with less fear, and viewed more closely the tremendous fall. It was now about one o'clock. Below us we saw a rainbow of transcendent splendour.. The ends were nearly under our feet, and the top of the arch reached more than half a mile, just encroaching on the foot of the little falls. We then walked into the river, and stood just under a fall of about three feet, drank of the stream, and washed on the top of this rock in water, ready to pour in half a minute over the precipice into the vast profound. Here we observed a small bird, perched on a rock in the stream, nearer the fall than any human being would venture. We threw stones at him, and remarked the horrour, with which he looked towards the chasm. After several flights in circles, he was obliged to approach us to avoid greater dan ger. We returned and changed our dress; and, after breathing, I can now relate a story or two, told by our guide. Below the rapids, in the middle of the stream, is form. ed a shallow, part of which is covered with grass. To this deer sometimes swim with the current, but can never return. The poor creatures are swept away by the stream, and their carcases are found at the foot of the falls. But every thing is not lodged near the falls below. Only six weeks ago an Indian squaw, drowned at Chippeway, was found at Queenstown, seven or eight miles below the cataract, with only her neck and thigh broken. On returning to dinner, we found that Chippeway bridge had broken through during our absence. This we crossed yesterday; but if we had fallen through, as there is no current perceptible in this inferiour river, we might perhaps have escaped being shown at Queenstown. After dinner we tackled our waggon and drove towards the falls, stopping at a house, which ought to be a tavern. We did not visit Table rock,as we wished not to wet our clean cloaths; but we walked down the fields to the head of the ladder, and Twent down. We enjoyed very fine views, and resolved on a grand expedition to be once more wet through to-morrow. Tuesday....Reviewed the scenes of yesterday. Our first visit was to Table rock, in which we observed a small crack, and we speculat ed on it with unreasonable fear, for it cannot run deep. This famous rock projects nine or ten feet, and is of uniform thickness. Its immense supporter is hollowed gradually, and a line dropped from the edge of the rock would be, I think, forty or fifty feet from the centre of the concave. Once more we descend the ladder and approach the horrid vacuity behind the sheet of water. Within eight rods of the cataract is a collection of sulphur, deposited on the side of the rock by a little stream, percolating this bed of limestone. This is nearly under Table rock, which, if it should now break off from its stock, would fall without the path, and only endanger us by the pieces, into which it must fly on striking the bottom. But indeed there is no danger. The water once poured over this rock, and it should then have yielded to the immense pressure. Very strong and cold gusts of wind blow perpetually out of the cavern, accompanied with rain, so thick, as, when a person is near, totally to intercept the sight. Here we all stop, and each runs as far as possible into this viewless and horrible abyss. I almost despaired of ever seeing T-- again, so violent was the beating of the wind and the rain; yet he could not have been absent from where I stood more than two minutes. We afterwards went to the shore as near, where the water strikes the rock after its fall, as possible. Here is a great spray, and the roar is really stupifying. But if we look upwards, the view of the sun beams, gleaming through the drops broken off from the sheet of water, and these drops so near as to strike at last in our faces, is truly enchanting. We climbed a crag, broken from above, on which it seemed impossible to remain, for the whole ocean seems falling on our heads; but it does not quite reach us, and we are only refresh. ed by the plentiful dashing of the water below. But here no one feels uncomfortable from the wet, and nobody ever here took a cold. The Horse shoe fall resembles rather a sickle, and in what seems the handle near Goat island, close to the very edge of the precipice, are several loose rocks, that must come down in a few months. I am very sure, that yesterday I heard the crash of a rock, carried over the falls, or a part of the precipice broken away. This was just on my arrival at the foot of the ladder. At the distance of an eighth of a mile, on the shore of the river below the falls, one may have a very fine view. Stoop downwards, with your back towards the cataract, and look up at the top of it. There seems to be nothing above. It pours from the very battlements of heaven, or resembles the restoration of chaos. Look again, and you behold trees, which your amazement forbade you to see before, growing out of the very edge of the cataract in the deepest part. The deception is admirable, and, I think, unequalled by any vagary of nature. But these trees are nearly a mile distant on the high banks of the river, whose course thence to the precipice is nearly crooked, as a semi-circle. Any one will easily believe what Goldsmith soberly says, that these falls are a great interruption to. navigation, though it is doubtful whether any would follow the Indians, who, he says, have passed down safely in their canoes. CRITICISM. Translated for the Anthology from the Cours de Literature of La Harpe. NERO, now sure of the love of Junia for Britannicus, meditates nothing but vengeance and crimes. He orders his brother to be arrested; he places guards over his own mother, and perceiving, by a conversation with her, that the rights of Britannicus to the empire may be employed as an arm against him, he hesitates not a moment, and gives orders to poison him. But how! With what odious cold blood and what studied villany! It is by appearing to reconcile himself with Agrippina and Britannicus; by lavishing his caresses, submissions, and embraces; and by representing in his palace a scene of filial tenderness. Gards! qu'on obeisse aux ordres de ma mere. In this manner he prepares him, self for a fratricide. And this is that policy of corrupt courts, of which Corneille af fected to treat so often; but here it is in action, and not in words; that is to say, it is in theatrical re presentation the same thing as it is in reality; it is the perfection of the art. Nero conducted no otherwise than Charles the Ninth. Agrippina had scarcely left him, when his dissimulated rage could no longer contain itself: he thinks himself sure of Burrhus, because Agrippina is discontented with him; and it is before a virtuous Guards! obey the orders of my mother. man, that he avows the project of a crime, and that crime is poison- confidence without necessity, and Une seconde fois lui promette ma place. Avant la fin du jour, je ne le craindrai plus. To speak thus to Burrhus, is to shew the whole character of Nero. None but a consummate villain can, without blushing, shew himself as he is, before an honest man; it is a proof that he has surmounted every thing, even his conscience. Other villains take off the mask, sometimes before confidants worthy of them none but Nero can unbosom himself before Burrhus. This example is singular on the theatre, and it is a trait of genius. Mahomet conceals not from Zopira his policy or his ambition; but there is a grandeur in his projects, criminal as they are; he hopes to gain Zopira, and he has her in his power. Here is nothing of all this. Nero avows the most cowardly of all crimes, and yet has no need of Burrhus to execute them. This made from the fulness of the heart, would be, any where else, a great fault: here it is a stroke of the pencil of a great master. It is evident that Nero does not believe himself committing a crime; in his eyes it is the most simple thing in the world to poison his brother; and that which proves this is, that he is quite astonished when Burrhus disapproves; and in the following scene he says to Narcissus, as the only thing that gives him any hesitation, They will represent my revenge, as a parricide. Ils mettront ma vengeance au rang des parricides. These last words are not the words of a tyrant, but of a monster. Here commences that grand spectacle, so moral and so dramatick; that combat between vice and virtue, under the names of Narcissus and of Burrhus, contending for the soul of Nero ; and here are developed these two characters, as perfectly traced as those of Nero and of Agrippina. Burrhus is the model of the conduct, which may be held by a virtuous man, placed by the circumstances of the times near a bad prince, and in a depraved court, He is surrounded by passions, interests, and vices, and contends with them all, on all sides. He pronounces not a word. concerning virtue, no more than Nero concerning crimes; but he represents the former in all its purity, as Nero represents the latter in all their horrours. He resists the restless ambition of Agrippina, and the perversity of his master, and speaks the truth to both, but without ostentation, without bravado, with a noble and modest firmness, not seeking to offend, and not fearing to displease. He speaks |