Berezov. I could discern two Russo-Greek churches built of brick, and a large house of wood, painted yellow, standing on a hill, overlooking the river. The rest of the town consisted of small wooden houses, the largest two stories high, and all looking dingy and blackened with rain. The town was surrounded, except on the side fronting the river, by a cedar forest, presenting an interminable background of wood.

The Horodnitchee, who is the highest functionary resident in the town, came alongside in a large and comfortable boat to convey us to our temporary lodgings, till we could find some more suitable. Notwithstanding this civility and his apologies for having kept us waiting two hours, with a pressing invitation to us to go on shore with him in his own boat, I could not leave the vessel without some apprehensions and misgivings, as Josephine and I were the only persons now on board, all having gone ashore immediately on our coming to anchor, and everything in the bark being left to take care of itself. Without letting a word drop before the functionary, I communicated

this fact to our Cossack, but he assured me that there was nothing to fear, as all was perfectly safe. Without more words, therefore, we got into the boat, the Horodnitchee and the Cossack with us, and left the vessel and its contents under the safeguard of the public faith.

CHAPTER VIII.

The bay-Lodgings-Want of market-Sour ducksNights with day-light-Breakfast on water-New Lodgings - Supper — Arrangement of the roomsSuperfluous gifts-The hostess Sudden summer

heat.

WE disembarked at the quay in the bay, and found a crowd of people of all classes, old and young, standing on the shore, the women dressed in gaudy, bright colours, their gowns, pelisses, and handkerchiefs shining like so many flower beds, as if it were a fair. Seeing this assemblage of people at one point, not on Sunday, but on a working day, I conceived quite a different idea of Berezov from what I had previously entertained.

Making our way through this throng, we proceeded, in company with the imperial functionary, to the lodgings prepared for us.

After so long a voyage, and confinement in a narrow cabin, where we could scarcely make three steps across, it was quite a relief to enjoy the unconstrained freedom of our feet, and a luxury to be put in possession of two airy, light, and cleanly rooms. The only drawback was, that the fire being lighted in the stove shortly before our arrival, as is usual on such occasions, there was a suffocating smell from it. But the Cossack, who from our guard had become our landlord, suggested we should in the meanwhile occupy the room of his own family; and according to the custom of the country, we were treated with tea. As we were now, however, close upon St. Peter's Day, a period of strict Lent, the tea was served without milk or cream; and tea is a beverage which I could never bear without the latter accessories. Moreover, we were very hungry. But as it would have been anything but good taste to impose laws on hospitality so courteously offered to us, we repressed our desire for more substantial food, comforting ourselves

VOL. I.

K

with the idea of having our own household arranged very speedily, when we could do whatever we wished. When the stove had burnt out, and the rooms were ventilated, we retired to our rooms.

All our luggage, together with the cow, was still on board the vessel; and we were told that we could hardly have them this day, as it was difficult to find people who would disembark them; and besides, our present lodging being occupied but temporarily, it was difficult to provide a place for them. Not seeing much reason, therefore, why we should be in a hurry, I asked our landlord if he could procure us some articles of food from the market, when he replied that there was none in the town.

No market! Then where do you get your food?" I inquired.

Everybody gets his food where he can," was his reply.

I never supposed, nor could any such idea have ever entered into my imagination, that a town could exist without a market. Yet such was the case here; and we saw that we could not do otherwise than accommodate ourselves to the exigency.