Ebal, that on which the curses were delivered, on the other. Terraces extend a considerable way up Mount Gerizim, on whose summit are ruins of cisterns lined with cement, which apparently are of great antiquity; this mountain joins the one on which Jacob's well is situated. On our entering the town we put up at a Khan, built in the time of the Crusades. It is a quadrangular building, with small rooms leading off each side, which were occupied with travellers and merchants; some of the latter offered us goods for sale; among the many novel articles shewn us, was a cloak made of the skin of an ostrich with the feathers on; one of my companions invested himself with this singular costume, and on the merchant seeing our surprize and curiosity excited, demanded a considerable sum, much greater than either the article was worth, or than any of us felt inclined to give. We visited a synagogue of the Samaritans to see their celebrated manuscript said to have been written by Abishua, son of Phineas, son of Eleazar, son of Aaron, the high priest; this ancient record they at first refused to shew us, and thought to satisfy our curiosity by producing one written only eight centuries ago. The priest said he should have to change his dress, and go to the bath before it would be lawful for him to touch so sacred a relic; a few piasters soon removed all his scruples, and without his changing attire, using ablutions, or lighting candles he laid sacrilegious hands on this most holy volume. One of my companions read some of it aloud, much to their astonishment. They would not be persuaded but that there are Samaritans in England, as none but a Samaritan could have taught him. They deny that they are in any way descended from the Assyrians, which Shalmaneser left behind him when he laid waste Samaria, and carried its inhabitants into captivity, and abuse the Jews, who assert that their (the Samaritan) nation has perished. Whilst they were stating to us their grievances, some Jews entered who desired us not to mind those books, nor what the Samaritans said, as they (the Jews) alone preserved the pure law of Moses; this

difference of opinion gave rise to a dispute which we had much difficulty in quelling, thus setting forth the truth of what we find in the ivth of John, 9, "For the Jews have no dealings with the Samaritans." On the 15th of

the month Nisan, or Abib, they annually offer up a lamb on Mount Ġerisim, which sacrifice they keep secret from the Mahomedans. A German Jew conducted us to the place where the Patriarch Jacob resided-also the cave in which he mourned the loss of his son Joseph.

Nabloose is frequently alluded to in Scripture under the names of Shechem, Sychar, or Sychem-its classic name was Neapolis. After the destruction of Samaria by Shalmaneser, Shechem became the capital of the Samaritans; and we find from Josephus, it continued to be so in the time of Alexander the Great. The population may be about 7000, who carry on a considerable trade with Egypt. Its principal article of manufacture is soap, but it has many other factories which supply the surrounding neighbourhood with silks, cloths, and various other articles of dress; numerous caravans of camels, used for the purpose of conveying goods, repose in the olive groves outside the gates. The bazaars are well supplied, and there is much appearance of bustle and activity; at a short distance from the town is a ledge of rock which contains a number of tombs; a fine clear spring rises near this, which sends its cooling waters through a small artificial conduit into the town. As we received many insults from the inhabitants, being frequently spit upon and reviled as Christian dogs, (on one occasion whilst I was drawing a view of the town and Mount Gerisim, a boy came behind me and threw dust upon what I was colouring;) we felt no inclination to remain any longer in this "city of refuge," so took our departure on the third day from our arrival. Crossing some rugged mountains we passed by Thannoor, known by the name of Thoron in the time of the Crusades; it is situated on a rocky eminence, and is now in ruins, having been lately destroyed in a siege by the Bashaw of Acre.

The country around is considered very dangerous, so much so that we could not induce our guides to travel by night, though there was a fine moonlight. On our reaching Jenneen we sought every where for a room to rest ourselves in, but no one would receive us as soon as they discovered we were Christians; one house offered to lodge us, provided they got the consent of the Mutsellem (governor,) which being refused we were obliged to rest under the broken shade of an olive grove outside the town. Our motive for wishing to get into a house, was in order to avoid being seen by the inhabitants who bear a very indifferent character in matters relating to honesty or forbearance towards Christians. After some rest we proceeded to Jezreel, distant about three hours; here we pitched for the night in Naboth's vineyard, a short distance from the town, not wishing to enter the filthy mud hovels which abound with vermin. The Mucoraws placed their animals in a circle, which they secured by an iron chain, one end of which was fastened round their fetlocks, and the other attached to a spike run into the ground; we ranged ourselves and luggage within this circle, as we were informed the Jezreelites would have no scruples in carrying off anything they could lay hold on. We sent our servants into the village to buy bread, eggs, and anything else that they could procure. Each of us assisted in preparing our supper; one gathered sticks and leaves for fuel, another laid the rugs in order, a third tried his skill on an omlette, whilst it fell to the lot of another to execute and pluck some fowl, which our servants succeeded in procuring. As soon as the Arabs saw our fire lighted, and the appearance of cooking going on, they hovered about us and gradually came nearer; some thought to get into our good graces by appearing to assist us, and run our messages; others who were Christians (secretly, that the Mahomedans might not observe them) made the sign of the cross, and though it is too much to be feared that they were Christians only in name, yet I felt that I could not resist answering their sign, as a tacit acknowledgment of that

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by which alone wretched sinners can be saved. By the time our supper was ready we found our self-invited guests had come into close quarters with us, and had already squatted themselves in a circle, cross-legged, and were commencing operations on our pilaff which they soon helped to diminish, thrusting their copper-coloured fingers into the same dish from which we were eating. On my using a knife and fork (implements unseen before by our guests) to carve a fowl; one of them thinking I was giving myself a great deal of unnecessary trouble, snatched it up in his fingers, and tore the limbs and bones asunder, and with an air of self-approbation said, "shoof, shoof!" (look, look.) On his finishing his operations, he dipped a part of the dismembered fowl into the rice and stuffed it into my mouth, thus taking the honours of the banquet on himself; this custom forcibly reminded me of the sop our Saviour gave Iscariot, and of the passage, He that dippeth his hand with me in the dish."* The washing of hands before and after meals, the usual practice in these countries, and which, in accordance with English ideas of cleanliness would be thought a very necessary accompaniment to an Arab repast, was on this occasion entirely omitted by our swarthy guests who made an essuimain of their beards and trowsers. It would have been a very impolitic action to have sent them away or spoken roughly to them, as they might perhaps have paid us a visit in the night, when even still less ceremony would be observed. to return the compliment we paid them, or rather they paid themselves for the supper, they lit their chiboukes (pipes) which when they had smoked for a while, they stuffed without ever wiping them into our mouths. As night came on they withdrew, and notwithstanding our watchfulness over them, after they had left us, sundry complaints were made by our servants of things having disappeared. We each kept watch in turn whilst the rest slept; when my turn came to mount guard, I was kept on the qui vive in driving away the jackalls and numerous hungry dogs that came prow

In order

ling about. I was going to fire at some of them, but thought it more adadvisable not, as it might bring down upon us a fresh importation of Arabs, who would gladly make use of our having shot their dogs as as a plea for plunder. The savage dogs reminded me that here the prophecy of Elijah was literally fulfilled. "The dogs shall eat Jezebel by the wall of Jezreel." In the morning we entered the extensive plains of Jezreel or Esdrealon, also called the plain of Tabor; the Galilean plain and great plain (its present name is Merdj ibn Aamer.) This is memorable as the place where "Sisera was discomfited, and all his chariots and all his host, with the edge of the sword, before Barak."* It was here also that Josiah, King of Judah, was put to death by Pharaohnechoh, King of Egypt; † nor are these plains the less remarkable in our days, as it was here that Napoleon's troops, commanded by Murat, encountered an overwhelming army of Turks and Mamelukes. These plains, from their extent, and the facility they afford for manoeuvring, are well adapted for being the theatre of war. I saw a singular and beautiful effect of mirage, when crossing these plains. I could not be persuaded, though repeatedly assured to the contrary, but that a most beautiful lake was before me at the extremity of the plains, and was anticipating the pleasure of refreshing myself in its waters; but ever as I advanced it fled before me, like the phantom image of the lost Creusa. The chief production of this plain, which is only partially cultivated, consists of cotton. Passing Endor, where the witch that raised Samuel resided, and the village of Nain, where Christ raised the only son of a widow, we came to the foot of Hermon, where we slept among rows of prickly pears or Indian figs, some of the fruit of which we eat and found the flavour rather agreeable.The camels eat the leaves without any difficulty, though covered with thorns. On rising in the morning I found my coverlet completely wet through with the dews that had fallen during the night. I recollected it was to these dews the Psalmist alluded, in describ

Judges, iv. 15. 1 Sam. xxviii. 7.

ing the unity of brethren, in his cxxxiii Psalm.

After winding for some time along the foot of the hill, we came to the precipice down which the Jews were about to cast Jesus, when he escaped from them.

Nazareth, now Nassara, is situated on rising ground, in a valley encompassed with barren mountains. The houses are flat roofed, and seldom exceed one story; they are very strag gling, and built without any regard to regularity or line of street. We put up at the Latin convent, where seven or eight monks and the superior resided. There are good substantial walls surrounding the building, which give to the traveller of these lawless regions a feeling of security. Bread, wine, and lodging is provided gratis at this convent for all pilgrims or travellers, for three days, at the expiration of which time it is expected they will proceed on their journey. We found the monks very civil in directing us to the various places of interest. The first place they conducted us to was the chapel of the convent, built over the cave or house of the Virgin. On entering the humble abode of the mother of Jesus, we remarked a granite column suspended as if by some miraculous agency, over the spot where the angel Gabriel appeared to Mary, Queen Helena is said to have placed it there, that so holy a locality might be preserved. In the centre of the cave is an altar, under which is an inscription, stating "Verbum caro hic factum est.” At the back of the altar are some steps, hewn out of the solid rock, leading up to her sleeping chamber. The monks tell you, with all gravity, it was from this house the angels carried away the one now at Loretto. There are some paintings hung round the sides of the chapel ;one representing St. Antonio, which a monk assured me performed wonderful cures and miracles, when prayed to. On his seeing me smile, and express doubts as to the possibility of a piece of canvass, with an old head daubed on it, possessing any miraculous properties, he mitigated his praises, and said, "al meno dicono cosi," (at least

+ 2 Kings, xxiii. 29. § Luke, vii. 11.