CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE of sorrento. 75

to see gold chains, of 600 crowns value, round the neck of a Contadina, on the festival days. Silk is the manufacture of Sorrento. Before the door of every house, women are employed in winding, or weaving it into ribbons.

At this time of the year all the orange-groves and vineyards are covered with nets, in which, as well as on the island of Capri, quails are taken in great numbers; they form a lucrative part of the bishop's revenue, and of the traffic of this country. Here is a peculiar breed of very small pigs; they have no hair; the skin is of a light brown: the flesh is very delicate, as they are chiefly fed on acorns. They are never permitted to enter the towns, which is the case all over Italy, as well as here. The character of the people is certainly rather avaricious; they are exceedingly civil when paid to be so; but without payment they have no idea of doing the smallest thing, even of allowing us to take a walk in any of their gardens. To extract money in every way they can, is their system. Sorrento oranges and Sorrento pork are famous all over Italy; so should be Sorrento imposition, for in no country is it more practised. In a few days we are to return to Naples, and shall not feel much regret at bidding adieu to Sorrento. We have become so much accustomed to our beautiful terrace, from whence we often heard distinctly the rumbling of the internal fire of Vesuvius, as well as saw its volumes of smoke by day, and flame by night, that

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FUNERAL PROCESSION.

it was no longer accompanied with the same sensation of pleasure; and we are all heartily tired of the dry stone walls.

Naples, Monday, September 27th.-Here we are, once again returned to our old lodging in Palazzo Serignano, wafted across in the same felucca, by the same boatman (Epifanio) who conducted us to Sorrento. We are all well, and have much reason to thank God for his mercies. In the evening a grand funeral procession of a Sicilian general passed under the windows. The bier was carried by twelve men, who were concealed under a covering of crimson velvet, richly embroidered with gold : the body, dressed in full regimentals, lay on the top, and was preceded and followed by long files of military, with bands playing a solemn funeral dirge, and also by the monks and priests of several convents bearing lighted torches. The relatives of the deceased never attend at these processions. The countenance was exposed to view, and looked serene, indicative, it is to be hoped, of a peaceful exit from this transitory life. There is much parade and ostentation in carrying that poor senseless clay to its last tenement, where soon it will be mingled"earth to earth, and dust to dust." Has there been as much attention to the immortal part, the never dying soul, while it lingered between time and eternity? or was it allowed to depart amidst vain outward ceremonies, without once turning its regards to the sinner's only refuge?

The lifeless body, after having been thus exposed in grand procession through the most public streets, is taken to a church, and placed on a catafalque, erected higher or lower, according to the rank of the deceased, where it remains for two or three days, that as many as choose may see the body lying in state, the face being painted to prevent any disagreeable impression from the sight. During this time, masses for the soul are constantly performed by different officiating priests. When interment takes place, all respect for the dead seems to vanish. If the person had been poor, the body is completely undressed, and dropt by a rope into the grave. A coffin is never provided, but when particularly requested; and, even for the rich, is made in the roughest manner.

Tuesday, 28th. We walked in the Giardino Reale, where we greatly admired what is said to be the finest statue of a beast in the world, the Farnese Bull, which stands on a pedestal in the central walk: two young men, of graceful figure and attitude, are represented holding it in. The garden is abundantly ornamented with white marble statues. The walks on all sides are shaded with rows of acacia, and lead to a beautiful Ionic temple, adorned in front with a double row of white marble pillars. This evening Mr. R-, our medical attendant, introduced us to his wife, who is a Maltese. Their little baby, of a few weeks old, was brought. Its papa, seeing us look with wonder at

78

MUSEO BORBONICO.

the conspicuous ear-rings, which were suspended from its little ears, said laughing, “ Advantage was taken of my absence two hours after the birth of the infant to do that business." He then told us that it is a Neapolitan custom to pierce the ears of the children as soon as they are born.

Wednesday, 29th. We were much interested by a visit to the Museo Borbonico, where is deposited a magnificent collection of statues, vases, lamps, &c. from Herculaneum and Pompeii. Amongst these ancient forms we discovered from whence our modern tea-urns, chairs, lamps, &c. have been modelled. One of the latter we particularly admired for the peculiar elegance of the form and design. It is a stump of a tree, with extended branches, from each of which hangs a beautiful lamp. All these things being made of bronze, escaped uninjured from under their bed of lava. Two beautiful equestrian statues, finely proportioned, were found nearly calcined in the theatre at Herculaneum. We were shown a horse, which had been broken into six hundred pieces, and has been again put together with indefatigable labour and ingenuity: it was the only one of four which could be saved with the chariot. This horse is greatly admired by connoisseurs, and is thought well deserving the trouble of thus preserving it.

LETTER IX.

MY DEAR FRIEND,

Naples, Sept. 30, 1819.

DURING the summer months the Neapolitans carry on in the street their different occupations. Just opposite our windows there is a row of smith's forges at work, which, being in the open air, has at night the most brilliant effect imaginable. During the heat of the day every one retires to sleep. From twelve until four o'clock, the silence of night prevails, and forms a striking contrast to the unceasing din and clamour which, during the morning and evening hours, allow no rest to our ears. At this time of day, when a universal drowsiness seems to weigh down every eye-lid, persons are seen lying fast asleep on the steps of doors, and in every corner of the streets. At their employments it seizes upon them and I have seen women asleep still holding the spindle. Except during these hours of sleep, the number of carriages driving rapidly is incredible, which renders walking the streets unsafe, as well as unpleasant. The drivers go at a furious rate, seemingly regardless of the foot passenger, however respectable in appearance. The great luxury in this, as in most towns in Italy, is the possession of a carriage. The Ita-.

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