SPANISH TEA PARTY.

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Saturday, 5. This is the anniversary of our darling Anny's entrance into the kingdom of glory. On this day last year, her emancipated spirit took its flight to the everlasting realms of rest.

Pisa, January 29. The walks on the banks of the Arno are delightful, and the weather is even warmer than May with us. This day we were obliged to seek the shade, and lay aside winter clothing. I visited Countess B., a Spanish lady, who, with her adopted daughter, Josephine, lives next door to us. The latter is nearly Elizabeth's age, improved in mind, and of elegant manners. The hope that she may prove an eligible companion for Elizabeth, was my inducement for making the acquaintance. The Countess B. is fond of the English, and always seems glad of an opportunity of forming an intimacy with them. A large party assembled, by invitation, at her house; and being aware that no kind of refreshment would be as acceptable as tea, she had a table arranged, at which she began her operations, by putting a small teaspoonful of tea into a large tin pot filled with water. The English ladies seeing such an insipid beverage prepared, sat looking at each other in dismay, until one amongst them courageously explained to the kindly-intentioned countess that the tea which she had made was not such as the English were accustomed to drink, adding, that as she was preparing it for them, she hoped she would pardon the liberty which she took in offering her

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ENTERTAINMENT OF THE BIFANIO.

services. The countess willingly resigned her place, but sat by as a learner, and appeared much amazed at seeing the quantity of tea made use of; being persuaded that it possessed a poisonous quality, she felt so uneasy about her guests, that she sent a servant in the morning to inquire after their health.

Damiano told the children that a very delightful entertainment was to be given in the evening at the house of one of his friends; and, if their mama could be persuaded to allow them to accompany him, he should have the most exquisite pleasure in shewing it them. My sister consented only on condition of my being one of the party. We were ready when he came for us at the appointed hour, and we witnessed what was, indeed, sport for children, though there was a numerous assembly of grown persons in a very large apartment. In the centre of an adjoining room a table was placed, covered with sweetmeats, at the head of which the Bifanio presided. This is a figure of a woman, as large as life, and hideously ugly, the upper part of the face black, the lower flesh coloured; on the head a large plume of feathers; the figure was seated in a kind of bower, of green leaves and flowers. Ridiculous letters were put successively into its hand, addressed to different individuals present. The great fun was reading these letters aloud; but the amusement to the children seemed to be chiefly that of eating up the good

DESCRIPTION OF A GREEK HOSPODAR. 313

things with which the table was spread. There is a Greek Hospodar here with his train; being dressed in splendid costume, they never make their appearance without exciting much admiration; at a fancy ball, a diadem encircled the head of the princess, thickly set with sparkling diamonds; they have always with them their little daughter of five years old, whose striking beauty attracts the notice of all who behold her, and who is exhibited at every midnight revel; her dancing particularly attracts universal attention.

The Greek prince and attendant wear flowing beards; the costume is in the Turkish style, the turban more like the crown of a hat. The Turks wear mustachios, and have always an attendant when they ride or walk, and even at an evening party he follows his master as he moves from one side of the room to the other. Sometimes they perform graceful evolutions, mounted on beautiful Arabian coursers, and throwing the javelin one to the other, just under our windows.

February 12. We made a day's excursion to the Certosa, a convent of monks, situated at the foot of a mountain: the drive was delightful, the road in places winding through the arches of a very beautiful aqueduct. We stopped before the massive gates of the convent; and not satisfied with admiring its picturesque and romantic situation from without, I entered its court with Richard, who came provided with a sketch-book and pencil,

P

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THE CARNIVAL.

to take an advantageous view. Immediately I heard a general outcry, " Fuori, fuori," to which I gave no heed, supposing it addressed to some obnoxious dog, who had entered the sanctuary of the monks, but walked leisurely on until roused from my reverie by Richard, who ran up to me in a fright, exclaiming, " It is you, it is you whom "It they are hunting out; no woman is allowed to cross the threshold: these are the strictest order of monks." I did not, like a lady of my acquaintance at Rome, dispute the point; but, as expeditiously as possible, walked away.

February 14. This is Carnival time; the Lung Arno presents a gay scene. We have a full view from our windows of the grotesque figures which parade its banks; some of the equipages are gay beyond description, covered with green boughs and wreaths of flowers, drawn by twelve drunken bacchanals; two more are seated within, their heads crowned with flowers; occasionally they stop and dance to the sound of the tambourine. I could not help reflecting how soon their giddy round will be run, and they will discover their awful mistake, if they have not sought after that pure stream of pleasure which flows at God's right hand for

evermore.

This is the last day of the Carnival. May it be, indeed, the last time that I shall witness this madness of the people. Soon, I trust, our steps will be directed homewards, to the land of our

THE CASCINA-CAMELS.

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nativity, that land highly favoured and watered by the dew of God's blessing: and may our prayers never be omitted for this country which we leave, that its night of superstition may quickly be dispelled, and the light of the Gospel arise upon it.

Wednesday, March 6. Having had melancholy accounts of Mr. W. Owen, we drove to Leghorn, and found him very weak and low, hardly able to speak. He complained of violent palpitation at the heart. The most perfect quietness was necessary to compose him: I read a chapter in the Bible, to which he listened with deep attention, and made a few observations *.

March 14. We drove to the Cascina, or Grand Duke's Park, where we saw his breed of camels s; there are a great number which look half-starved, (but I believe it is the natural expression of their countenance). The man who shewed them to us, made an extraordinary noise in his throat, which the camel answered in the same tone, grinning and shewing his huge teeth, which the keeper said was a mark of displeasure, at the idea of being loaded, though he obediently sunk on his knees for that purpose, until his back was within reach of the man, on which he placed our little boy, who evinced no small degree of courage in suffering himselt to be mounted on the huge animal; which arose, on

* Mr. William Owen recovered sufficiently to return to his family in Ireland, but went back to Italy, and died at Leghorn, May 31, 1823.