ing before me, a magnificent amphitheatre, beautifully adorned with palaces, villas, and churches. The scene surpassed in grandeur any idea which I had formed, and well merits the appellation of Genoa la Superba. A pilot had come to our assistance at early dawn; to whom I tried to speak Italian, but failed. He made nearly as unsuccessful an attempt to speak English; for he had picked up but two or three words, and did not understand our answers. The captain ordered breakfast to be prepared, but as it consisted of nothing but salt herrings and mouldy biscuit, the pilot would not partake of it. The captain never supposing that he could object to the fare, thought it was modesty which kept him back, and frequently cried out, "munge, munge," by way of speaking to him in French; but if, instead of a broiled herring, he could have provided a ragout of frogs or snails, he most probably would not have found the appetite of the Genoese to fail. I shall now conclude my journal at sea, and send off this packet by the first private hand, since it is too large for the post.

LETTER III.

On board the M

May 29th, 1819.
in the Harbour of Genoa.

MY DEAR FRIEND,

My joyful feelings at once more finding my feet on terra firma, were deadened by the disagreeable circumstances attending my landing. The pilot made us understand, that we could not be permitted to land until we were examined by the health officers, and presently we saw a boat filled with soldiers and an officer, rowing towards us. They came on board, and after having examined the captain and sailors, the woman was ordered on deck. I went up trembling: they first asked for my passport, and finding that I had none, I was told, to my utter dismay, that I must accompany the party somewhere, I could not understand whither : however, I knew that there was no help; and went with them, though very reluctantly; and the captain kindly accompanied me. They brought me to two different offices, where were a number of men, who asked a great many questions about me; and stared at me as if they saw some very unusual thing. I afterwards discovered, that they were all this time deliberating whether I ought not to be sent back to England, because I had no pass

GENOA PALACES.

19

port, this most necessary appendage to a traveller on the continent having been forgotten. When this business was concluded, and a tedious one it was, the captain asked whether I would go back to the ship, or accompany him to the different houses of the merchants, with whom he had business to transact. I chose the latter alternative, being heartily tired of the ship, and having a desire to see the town; besides, it was a pleasure to me once more to use my feet after my long confinement. I found plenty of exercise for them in mounting the numerous flights of broad stone stairs which lead to the counting-houses at the top, or nearly so, of very high palaces. Amongst these merchants was one to whom great part of the ship's cargo was consigned, a Tuscan, who spoke English like a native of that country, though he had never been out of Italy. After the business was transacted, he came with us very obligingly to shew us part of the town; and took us first to the palaces of the King of Sardinia, of the Duke his brother, and of the Queen; and to several others, of which, though we only saw the outside, our admiration was sufficiently excited, being beautifully painted in figures and landscapes. I was so amused with all which I saw, that I never thought of fatigue, until I could go no further, and was obliged to return to the ship to rest. While what I saw is fresh in my memory, I would describe Genoa to you; but I despair of giving any idea of it. On my

with lead to the court-ouses a the top
yo, at very natace. Amongst these
is was one 1 WHOL. Ten par. of the ship's
WAS ORSION.., . "LAL, Nosport English
Diana country, though he had never

Are business was trans

ee with us very obuging to shew us detom and Loux u hrs: to the palaces Ang of baru. 6: the Duke his brother. thee, and to severa. others, of which. Guy saw the outside, our admiration excite. Deur beautifully painted andscapes. i was so amused with , it never thought of tatione. O uruie:, and was obliged to res. Waite what I somri i woul describe Geno giving any idea of