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with plumes of feathers; the ambassadors and their wives, the senator and his train, the Armenian bishop and priests, in very splendid robes, the cardinals, bishops, and all the Roman troops, in grand procession. In short, every one around "was clothed in fine linen, and purple and scarlet, and decked with gold and precious stones and pearls!" The ceremonies concluded with the blessing which the Pope pronounced from the terrace, as before; and the people below received it on their knees, looking up, with eager eyes, for the indulgences which are scattered among them by some of the cardinals.

About two o'clock all was at an end; and we and the rest of the English met at the clergyman's apartments, to hear our own service. The contrast was very striking, from the scene of gaiety and bustle which we had just left, to the quiet assembly of two or three gathered together in the name of the Lord, where some hearts at least, we trust, were drawn to Him in fervent prayer, meek humility, and love. In the evening the festivity of this holy day was concluded by a grand illumination of St. Peter's, and fire-works at the castle of St. Angelo. On entering the piazza, we beheld the architecture of the dome, façade, and colonnade, all marked out by soft lamps; and while we remained lost in admiration, a deep-toned bell tolled; and in a moment, as if struck by a magical wand, the whole fabric burst into a daz

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BAPTISM OF JEWS.

zling blaze of the most brilliant light; nor could we conceive how the sudden transition was effected.

From hence we drove to a large building opposite the castle of St. Angelo, from whence we saw the fire-works. St. Peter's, in all its blaze of glory until they began, still looked very brilliant; but from the moment when the girandolo blazed forth, which is meant to imitate an eruption from the crater of Vesuvius, the intense light of the fireworks, in a great measure, eclipsed that of the illumination.

Saturday. There is a baptism of Jews at the church of St. John Lateran, at which every year one or two are induced to receive baptism, either for the sake of the thirty pounds, given on the occasion, or from some other motive: but very few, if any, are supposed to be real converts. I have even been told, that the same Jew has been baptized more than once, when no other could be persuaded to come, that the appearance may up.

be kept

LETTER XXIV.

Rome, April 4, 1820.

THE palace in which we have apartments is called Palazzo Nuovo di Sciarra: the one adjoining is the old palace, also belonging to the same prince. We saw it to-day; it contains some fine paintings by Leonardo da Vinci. A picture of Vanity and Modesty fixed our attention. The sweetest, mildest expression, is depicted in the countenance of Modesty, whose attire is simple and neat, while Vanity is loaded with ornaments and finery: she turns away her head with a scornful and self-satisfied air from Modesty, who addresses her with a gentle persuasive look, as if saying," that women should adorn themselves in modest apparel, with shamefacedness and sobriety; not with broidered hair, or gold, or pearls, or costly array; but (which becometh women professing godliness) with good works."

We next saw the paintings in the Doria palace. Poussin's landscapes cover the walls of the first sala; and the adjoining apartment also is filled with his works. But this palace is most famous for its landscapes by Claude Lorraine. In the gallery are two, considered the most beautiful which the pencil of that celebrated artist ever produced. One of these is the famous Mill.

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THE VATICAN LIBRARY.

In the same gallery is a Belisarius, by Salvator Rosa, which, when seen, cannot easily be forgotten; and many other exquisite paintings, of which the description would fill a volume instead of a letter.

If

you find my details tiresome, blame yourself, for having requested that I would not keep to the rule which I prescribed for myself, of referring you to the accounts of others about palaces, &c., but would give my own impression of those which particularly attract my attention.

April 5. We are just returned from a visit to the Vatican library, which, at first sight, greatly disappointed us; the books are all locked up in close cases, unless the sight of them is particularly requested; and then, only one book at a time is produced. We saw the Old Testament in letters of gold, and some other very curious MSS. We then walked through the beautiful suite of apartments belonging to this branch of the Vatican. Some of our party having expressed a wish to see Mai, who recently discovered a lost work of Cicero, we were shewn into the apartments where he sat, surrounded with old books and parchments. His manner was intelligent and obliging; he seemed to take pleasure in explaining to us, with the greatest accuracy, how the discovery was made, at the same time shewing us the ancient manuscripts. We were told that the library contains 30,000 manuscripts, besides an immense quantity of books, in almost all written languages. Eleven Pontiffs

TEMPLE OF PEACE.

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have formed the collection, and two centuries have past in completing it. There are two very fine statues, one of Aristides, the other of S. Hippolytus on the pedestal of which is written the ancient Pascal Calendar. There are also some very ancient Greek paintings; the famous Etruscan boy found in the Via Tarquinia, whose captivating smile is so much admired; and many other curious and beautiful specimens of the productions of antiquity, adorn this noble part of the repository.

April 10. We have had a delightful evening drive to Monte Mario; we walked to Villa, Madama on the brow of the hill. It must have been once a noble residence, though now nearly a ruin. Some frescos by Raphael are mouldering on the walls, and a few neglected statues remain in their niches on the terrace, where we stood contemplating a magnificent view of Rome, and its desolate Campagna, watered by the slowly rolling Tiber. In descending, the children picked up some curious specimens of petrified sea-shells every where to be found on this mount. When we returned home the children still longing to enjoy the outward air, prevailed on me to accompany them to the top of the Temple of Peace. The ascent is easy through a garden; but, having arrived at the top, and being warned of some dangerous apertures in the time-worn arches concealed by a thick carpet of wild weeds, I felt apprehensive that some of my little heedless companions should fall