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ing the chapel, and in which the young ladies are regularly taught to act entire plays, an accomplishment deemed indispensable among the nobility and gentry of Italy. The funds of this noble institution are supplied from the revenue of a suppressed convent of nuns, and one hundred crowns, which each pupil must pay on being admitted. The only objection made to this plan of education is, that it is above the condition of persons who have no means of their own, and who return accordingly from it, much too highly accomplished for their situation in life.

The Reclusario, another of Murat's institutions, includes a seminary for the education of youths designed for a military life; a school under the superintendence of pious nuns, for the instruction of orphan girls in works of industry, by which they are afterwards enabled to earn a subsistence; an extensive coral manufactory; and an hospital for the sick; the whole forming one spacious building, which covers a large tract of ground.

Candy

LETTER XIII.

St. Agatha, October 27, 1819.

WE quitted Naples this morning, at half-past six o'clock. Our first stage was Aversa, where we saw another of Murat's grand institutions, an asylum for insane persons, conducted on the most humane plan, in all points superior, perhaps, to any other of the kind in the world. The ease, comfort, and even amusement of the unfortunate maniacs, are studied in every possible way; every source of irritation is removed, and they are treated as if they had no malady: even the use of knives and forks is permitted; and though the maniacs appear to walk about at large, and think they are under no controul, a watchful guardian attends all their steps, so that no mischief ever occurs. Their tastes and inclinations are studied, and whatever has power to charm or soothe is resorted to;if music, there is a great variety of instruments, and a number of good performers; and if reading, there are books. We were acquainted with one instance in which this humane treatment succeeded admirably a countrywoman of our own, whose intellect failed under the pressure of a variety of afflicting circumstances, was, by some one who had previously known her, found a wretched and

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forlorn wanderer in the streets of Naples; he brought her to Aversa, where, in a short time, she recovered her reason, and was restored to her family.

From Aversa to Capua the country is uninteresting. Here, profiting by past experience, we proceeded without loss of time through the enchanting country which I have already described. The edges on either side are perfumed with sweet myrtle, and enamelled with cyclimen, growing in wild luxuriance. The richness of the prospect, which varies at every turn of the road, would induce the traveller to linger, but that a cross marks the spot where a murder has been committed, and the scull of an executed assassin reminds him that he must hasten through a country where the fate of many a defenceless traveller may await him.

Thursday 28, Fondi.-I am now retracing my old route; you may, therefore, find some repetitions in my account of our journey. This morning we quitted St. Agatha at a very early hour. The master of the inn advised Sir W. to take a guard; but as he had heard that the ordinary number, three or four soldiers, even if bold and honest, would be of little avail against the usual power of the banditti, or, perhaps, would even increase the danger, since they might be in league with them, he resolved to proceed without any escort: and we journeyed safely more than two hours in the dark, the weather being damp and gloomy. Two or

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three times we were startled by a moving light among the trees. the trees. At length the clouds broke in a heavy shower of rain, accompanied with flashes of lightning; but day-light cleared the sky, and displayed the surrounding scenery in all its loveliness -hill and vale, covered with rich groves of figs and olives, &c. Sometimes the road wound among the Apennines, which surrounded us; on the other side lay the blue expanse of ocean.

When we entered Fondi we were accosted by dogana men, who were, however, very civil. One of them told Sir W. that the roads were very unsafe; for that the small detachments of military which are every where placed to guard them, rather increase the danger, since from the badness of their pay, they are easily tempted to enter into league with the banditti. A lady with whom we are acquainted, saw one of these detachments broiling and eating part of a dead horse, which lay by the road-side. She could not help stopping to enquire what could induce them to make use of such disgusting food. They answered, that they had no other resource, being nearly starved; for their pay is insufficient for their support.

Friday 29, Velletri.—Last night we slept at Terracina, and at half-past four in the morning had entered upon the Pontine marshes. The wea ther was fine, but the air heavy, from exhalations from the stagnant water. We travelled twentyfour miles before we stopped to breakfast at Tre

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ponti, where there is now a miserable inn, in what had once been a large pile of building, consisting of a church, a convent, and a post-house. Richard called me to look into the stable, where I saw the horses standing between a double row of beautiful granite pillars of Tuscan architecture. Large fragments of white marble pillars strewed the ground, on some of which are ancient inscriptions. Every thing around bore marks that this deserted wilderness was once the habitation of men, but the unwholesome atmosphere causes its desertion. Many efforts have been made to render it more salubrious, but in vain; a heavy denunciation seems to rest upon this spot. The marshes terminate at the wood of Cisterna, where there is a village of the same name. We sleep here (Velletri), and tomorrow hope once more to reach Rome.

LETTER XIV.

Rome, October 30, 1819.

THE Country is very beautiful between Velletri and Albano, particularly about Gensano, built on the edge of the sweet lake of Nemi. But here, too, the pleasure of security is wanting, where we see that all around has been a prey to earthquakes.