slumber upon or under the counters of their stores, or mayhap on cots, matresses, or settees with which their offices were furnished. A clean and comfortable bed was a rare article at the time, and few even aspired to the privilege of its enjoyment. Thus people lived at night, or during such portions of the night that were not passed in drinking saloons, gambling rooms, or other places of public entertainment; while their meals were taken at eating-houses, of which there was an immense number in every portion of the town. These were of every description, good, bad and indifferent, and kept by every variety of people. There were the American dining-rooms, the English lunch-houses, the French cabarets, the Spanish fondas, the German wirthchafts, the Italian osterie, the Chinese chow-chows, and so on to the end of a very long chapter. There were cooks, too, from every country; American, English, French, German, Dutch, Chinese, Chileno, Kanaka, Italian, Peruvian, Mexican, Negro, and what not. Hence people of any nation might have choice of a place of the kind, kept by their own countrymen, and where dishes were served in styles to suit their accustomed and peculiar appetites and fancies. There was an endless variety, too, in the character of the provisions furnished; for besides the common products of the country, importations were constantly arriving from all sections of the globe. Of game no other market ever furnished so great an abundance or so general an assortment. Bears, elks, deer, antelopes, hares, rabbits, squirrels, geese, ducks, quails, snipe, plovers, curlew, of a hundred species, came in from all parts of the country and covered the walls, floors and stalls of the market-houses. Vegetables indeed were scarce, but the ranches furnished no small amount of cattle; and bottled and canned fruits, fowl, meats and oysters came in immense quantities from abroad. The bay and rivers produced fish of many sorts, and the shipping brought large quantities of every kind of salt provision. Still the demand was great, and the expense of preparation for the table enormous, so that the prices of living were necessarily extravagant. At such establishments as Delmonico's, the Sutter, Irving, Jackson, Franklin or Lafayette house, a gentleman for his dinner and wine would be taxed from five to a dozen dollars; while at the meanest eating-rooms a very

ordinary meal would cost from one to three dollars. At most restaurants the prices were graduated according to the quantity and quality of the food eaten; and a bill of fare with the charge for each item was placed before the visitor. A roast duck would cost five dollars; a broiled quail, two dollars; a dozen canned oysters, one dollar; a small piece of pork or mutton, seventy-five cents; beef, the cheapest meat of the time, fifty cents; a fresh egg, one dollar; a potato, the size of a walnut, twenty-five cents; bread, butter, vegetables, coffee, and other necessary articles to complete a meal, were charged for in proportion. At first potatoes were rare articles, and it was no uncommon thing to see posted at the door of an eating-house, as an inducement for the hungry to enter, the announcement, "Potatoes to-day," or "Potatoes at every meal." It can readily be discerned, that, from want of the necessary apparatus and room for cooking, the inexperienced and indifferent character of the men employed as cooks, and the immense number of persons daily to be served in the most of these places, the greatest cleanliness was not generally observed, and that very many devoured food of the precise. character of which it was quite as well that they were kept in ignorance.

Besides the common eating-houses or restaurants, there were a number of fashionable saloons, where a delicate meal of small game or oysters could be obtained at exorbitant prices. These, too, were drinking-houses, and the resort in the evenings of those who had abundant means at their disposal, and were especially fond of luxurious living. They were generally kept by dashing females, or such were employed at high wages to decoy and entertain customers. Particular regard was paid to beauty and other attractions in their selection, and those who possessed the rarest charms to please, drew the most patronage and received the heaviest wages. Women were scarce in those days, and men were frequently willing to pay largely for the slight privilege of addressing one even in the way of business. Many, therefore, were attracted to these saloons more by a graceful figure and charming face, than the viands to be procured. It was quite a luxury to be spoken to and waited upon by a pretty girl. Not a few became the victims of these fascinating creatures, who were

never slow in learning the value attached to their charms, or how to bring these to the most profitable market. The dupes were not always inexperienced young men, nor debauched old bachelors. Many a man possessing an amiable wife and interesting children in the home from which he was temporarily separated, had his brains addled by the skilful management of these artful women. Money was foolishly squandered upon them in presents of jewelry and dress, and the reward of the giver in most instances was the gratification of an occasional deceitful word or smile, and the deep mortification of discovering at last that he had been outwitted, jilted and fooled. This sort of business was carried on to some considerable extent, and more than one saloon girl, who managed well their parts, have contrived to amass considerable sums of money, by worming it out of the pockets of their vain and admiring dupes.

There was still another and far better class of establishments of the latter kind, the habitual visitors to which were people of a different character. Clayton's well known saloon, which still exists on Commercial street, was one of the first of these. Here the most respectable citizens repaired, to take their glass of punch or ale, a broiled quail or oyster stew, a cup of coffee, or whatever delicacy they might require. Here they would meet, undisturbed by any thing offensive to the most refined habits and tastes, to talk over the affairs of the times, and spend an evening in a quiet and rational way. Still greater improvements were made in this line of business by that indefatigable and industrious caterer, Mr. M. L. Winn. His "Fountain Head" became celebrated for its gentility and cleanliness, and more especially by the entire exclusion of all spirituous and intoxicating drinks; while his "Branch" at the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets, would be a creditable establishment in the oldest and best regulated cities. This is a refectory of the highest order. It is a large saloon, and furnished in the most tasteful and elegant manner. It is also conducted on the strictest temperance principles. No inebriating drinks are sold. Icecreams, jellies, cakes, and other delicate refreshments are served, and the visitors embrace the most respectable ladies as well as gentlemen of the country.

The history of the enterprising proprietor of these establishments would make an interesting chapter in these "Annals," which

want of room will prevent our giving. The following account, however, of the extent of business transacted at the "Fountain Head" and "Branch," which we copy from the San Francisco "Commercial Advertiser" of 6th April, 1854, is too curious and important to be omitted:

The famous 'Fountain Head,' was started in July, 1851, after the proprietor had been burned out twice, and losing every thing he owned in the world. The Branch,' at the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets, was first opened in January, 1853. We learn from Mr. Winn, that the average number of persons entering his two establishments daily, to satisfy the cravings of hunger, are 3,000. He has 100 attachés to the two houses, at an average salary of $90 per month and boarded. The meat bill, per month, is $8,000; flour bill, $4,000; milk, $2,000; sugar, $3,00); butter, $200; other items necessary to carry on the two establishments, $5,000; rents in both places for one year, $54,000; improvements in both places during the last year, $31,000; can seat in both places 450 persons at one time; paid for ice and eggs last season, in five months, $23,000, more than has ever been paid in same length of time before or since; has sold in one day 1,500 glasses ice cream. This

was on July 4th, last year. Keeps 80 lights burning in both places every night; oil bill, $500 per month; 1,000 flour barrels used to pack soda crackers to be sent into the country; manufactures and sends into the country about 600 fifty pound boxes of candies; packs from 200 to 300 boxes of crackers for country and city trade; takes every city and country newspaper in the State; has paid in one month $1,600 for advertising and printing; carpenter's bill has averaged $9,000 during the last twelve months; printer's bill in same time, about $3,000; has often fed 5,000 persons in one day; upholsterer's bill for the last twelve months has been about $6,000; employs two draymen constantly; had an agent in New York to ship stores, until they got so low here that it was found to be cheaper to buy them in California. Last year consumed daily about one hundred and twenty-five dozen of eggs; sells about $50 worth of oysters a day; manufactures 100 gallons of Winn's golden syrup per monthnot furnished to any but private families. Receipts at both houses average $57,000 per month, or a little short of $2,000 per day; artesian well lately dug at the Fountain Head; has paid before $200 per month for water; is selling confectionaries to go to all parts of the world, and occasionally packs a few boxes as specimens to New York and London; has sold as high as 6,000. pounds of buckwheat in a month, made into cakes; has paid one man in his employ for 17 months' services $17,000 and board; receives less custom on Sundays than week days; bill for crockery and glassware for the last year, has been about $10,000; consumed $1,500 worth of coal in one month; has paid as high as $3,000 for potatoes in one month. Ice bill in one month has amounted to $2,000. All the above prices should be taken as the largest expenses in any one month; sometimes they have been two-thirds less-for instance has paid $5,000 per month for eggs, and as low as $1,000-other articles the same. Paid last year for taxes and licenses, $1,500.

"In addition to the above we are enabled to state that Mr. Winn has made

very extensive donations for charitable purposes. Each day his expenses for feeding poor and hungry applicants in both of his establishments, amounts to $20. His known kindness in these matters sends crowds to him, from whom he never asks a dime. The sufferers by the Sacramento fire, and by the Independence, and by every public calamity, have been the recipients of his bounty. He has paid away in the last year, independent of the above, $7,000 for the support of ministers and churches.'

Mr. Winn, the conductor and proprietor of the "Fountain Head" and "Branch," arrived in San Francisco in 1849, without one cent in his pocket, and obtained his landing from the ship in which he sailed from Panama, by borrowing money for that purpose from a friend. He commenced business, by manufacturing candy with his own hands, and carrying it through the streets upon a tray, supported over his shoulders by a pair of old suspenders. Many of the inhabitants in the fall of 1849, will