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The same day, so soon as we could, we set ashore fifteen or sixteen men, well armed, with some to fetch wood, for we had none left; as also to see what the land was, and what inhabitants they could meet with.

I have inserted this list from Prince, who found it at the end of Gov. Bradford's MS. From modesty, Bradford omits the title of Mr. to his own name. The figures denote the number in each family. Those with an asterisk (*) prefixed to their names, 21 in number, died before the end of March. Those with an obelisk (†) affixed, 18, brought their wives with them. Three, Samuel Fuller, Richard Warren, and Francis Cook, left their wives for the present either in Holland or England. Some left behind them part, and others all their children, who afterwards came over. John Howland was of Carver's family, George Soule of Edward Winslow's, and Dotey and Leister of Hopkins's family. Martin, Warren, Hopkins, Billington, Dotey, Leister, and probably some others, joined them in England. John Allerton and English were seamen. The list includes the child that was born at sea, and the servant who died; the latter ought not to have been counted. The number living at the signing of the compact was therefore only 100. "So there were just 101, (no, 100,)

who sailed from Plymouth in England, and just as many arrived in Cape Cod harbour. And this is the solitary number, who, for an undefiled conscience and the love of pure Christianity, first left their native and pleasant land, and encountered all the toils and hazards of the tumultuous ocean, in search of some uncultivated region in North Virginia, where they might quietly enjoy their religious liberties and transmit them to posterity." Prince, p. 173.

"These were the founders of the Colony of New Plymonth. The settlement of this colony occasioned the settlement of Massachusetts Bay, which was the source of all the other colonies of New Engand. Virginia was in a dying state, and seemed to revive and flourish from the example of New England. I am not preserving from oblivion the names of heroes whose chief merit is the overthrow of cities, provinces, and empires, but the names of the founders of a flourishing town and colony, if not of the whole British empire in America." Hutchinson, ii. 462. The same day "they choose Mr.

THE SOIL OF CAPE COD.

1

123

They found it to be a small neck of land; on this chap. side where we lay, is the bay, and the further side

3

IX.

Nov.

the sea; the ground or earth sand hills, much like 1620. the downs in Holland, but much better; the crust of 11. the earth, a spit's depth,' excellent black earth; all

John Carver, a pious and well approved gentleman, their governor for the first year." Bradford, in Prince, p. 162.

'The men appear to have been landed on Long Point, which tradition says has been diminished in its length, breadth, and height. F.

By the bay is intended the harbour. See p. 120. Plymouth harbour is afterwards called a bay; and the same name is given to the harbour of Cummaquid, or Barnstable. F.

'That is, Barnstable bay. F.

Gosnold, on landing at Cape Cod, in 1602, found "the sand by the shore somewhat deep." Smith, too, calls it "a headland of high hills of sand." The downs, or dunes, along the coast of Holland, are formed by the wind blowing up the sands of the sea-shore. To check the dispersion of the sand, the dunes are sowed regularly every year with a species of reed grass (arundo arenaria.) In a short time the roots spread and combine so as to hold the sand fast together. Linnæus, in his journey to the islands of Ocland and Gothland, in the Baltic, pointed out to the natives the advantage of planting the seareed grass to arrest the sand and form soil on the shores, to which it is extremely well adapted by the length of its roots. A similar practice has within a few years been adopted at Cape Cod, under the direction and at the expense of the general government. Large tracts of white sand at Provincetown have been planted with the beach grass (psamma arenaria.) The grass, during the spring and summer, grows about two feet and

a half. If surrounded by naked beach, the storms of autumn and winter heap up the sand on all sides, and cause it to rise nearly to the top of the plant. In the ensuing spring the grass sprouts anew; is again covered with sand in the winter; and thus a hill or ridge continues to ascend as long as there is a sufficient base to support it, or till the surrounding sand, being also covered with beach grass, will no longer yield to the force of the wind. See Purchas, iv. 1648; Mass. Hist. Coll. xxvi. 119, viii. 110; Bigelow's Plants of Boston and its Vicinity, p. 40; Pulteney's General View of the Writings of Linnæus, p. 35.

5 The depth of a spade. F. "A spade's depth thrown out in digging is still called a spit." Richardson's Dict. art. Spade.

Some persons may smile at reading of "a spade's depth of excellent black earth" at the extremity of Cape Cod. And yet, even now, after the woods are cut down, and free scope is given to the winds to scatter the sands over the vegetable mould of centuries, there is, at High Head, in Truro, within four miles of Long Point, where the Mayflower was anchored, an "excellent black earth" more than a foot in depth, which for years, without manure, has produced 50 to 60 bushels of corn to the acre. It is based on an old Indian clambed, in which I observed the shells of the oyster, the scallop, the quahaug, the sea clam, and the cominon clam. This rich soil is on the property of James Small, whose hospitable dwelling is near the Highland Light.

124

1

THE TREES OF CAPE COD.

CHAP. Wooded with oaks, pines, sassafras, juniper, birclt, IX. holly, vines, some ash, walnut; 2 the wood for the most

1620.

Nov.

part open and without underwood,3 fit either to go or 11. ride in. At night our people returned, but found not any person, nor habitation; and laded their boat with juniper, which smelled very sweet and strong, and of which we burnt the most part of the time we lay there.

'See note on page 118.

There are three kinds of oak on the Cape, the red oak, (quercus rubra,) the black oak, (quercus tinc toria,) and the white oak, (quercus alba.) The frames of the oldest buildings there are made of white oak, which is one of the most durable kinds of timber. The pine is the pitch pine, (pinus rigida); the birch is the white birch, (betula populifolia); the holly is the American holly, an evergreen, (ilex opaca); the ash is the white ash, (fraxinus Americana,) and the walnut is the white walnut, (juglans tomentosa.)

3 "The salvages are accustomed to set fire to the country in all places where they come, and to burn it twice a year, viz. at the spring, and the fall of the leaf. The reason that moves them to do so is because it would otherwise be so overgrown with underweeds, that it would be all a coppice wood, and the people would not be able in any wise to pass through the country out of a beaten path. This custom of firing the country is the means to make it passable, and by that means the trees grow here and there, as in our parks, and makes the country very beautiful and commodious." Morton's New English Canaan, ch. 18, (printed in 1632. Morton was here in 1622 and 1625.) "Whereas it is generally conceived that the woods grow so thick that there is no more clear ground than is hewed out by labor of men, it is nothing so; in many places, divers

acres being clear, so that one may ride a hunting in most places of the land. There is no underwood, saving in swamps and low grounds; for it being the custom of the Indians to burn the woods in November, when the grass is withered, and leaves dried, it consuines all the underwood and rubbish, which otherwise would overgrow the country, making it impassable, and spoil their much affected hunt ing. So that by this means, in these places where the Indians inhabit, there is scarce a bush or bramble, or any cumbersome underwood to be seen in the more champaign ground." Wood's New England's Prospect, ch. 5. (Wood was here in 1633.) The woods in some parts of Wellfleet and Eastham are now entirely free from underwood, as in the time of the Pilgrims.

4 The juniper was no doubt the red cedar, or savin, (juniperus Virginiana,) an evergreen which is still common on the Cape. It resembles very much the juniperus sabina or common savin of Europe, which bears the juniper berries. The taste of the leaves in the two species is nearly the same. The wood of the red cedar is odorous, and the leaves, when bruised, emit a resinous, aromatic odor. It burns freely on account of its resinous qualities. Morton says, "Of cedar there is abundance; and this wood was such as Solomon used for the building of that glorious temple of Hierusalem. This wood cuts red."

THE FIRST EXCURSION UP THE CAPE.

125

IX.

Nov.

Monday,' the 13th of November, we unshipped our CHAP. shallop, and drew her on land, to mend and repair her, having been forced to cut her down in bestowing her 1620. betwixt the decks, and she was much opened with the 13. people's lying in her; which kept us long there, for it was sixteen or seventeen days before the carpenter had finished her. Our people went on shore to refresh themselves, and our women to wash, as they had great need. But whilst we lay thus still, hoping our shallop would be ready in five or six days, at the furthest, (but our carpenter made slow work of it, so that) some of our people, impatient of delay, desired for our better furtherance to travel by land into the country, (which was not without appearance of danger, not having the shallop with them, nor means to carry provision but on their backs,) to see whether it might be fit for us to seat in or no; and the rather, because, as we sailed into the harbour, there seemed to be a river2 opening itself into the main land. The willingness of the persons was liked, but the thing itself, in regard to the danger, was rather permitted than approved; and so with cautions, directions, and instructions, sixteen men were set out, with every man his musket,3 sword, and corslet, under the conduct of Captain Miles Standish ;

See Michaux's Sylva Americana, iii. 221, and Bigelow's Medical Botany, iii. 49.

1 It would seem that the day be fore, being Sunday, they remained quietly on board.

Pamet river. Winslow spells it Paomet, and Capt. Smith Pawmet. It is pronounced as if spelt Parmit.

Their guns were matchlocks, as appears from their "having five or six inches of match burning,"

Nov. 16, and from their lighting
all their matches," Nov. 30. Even
as late as 1687 match-locks were
used instead of flint-locks in the
regiments of the Duke of Bruns-
wick. See Beckmann's History of
Inventions, iii. 440.

4 MILES STANDISH appears now
in these chronicles for the first
time, as the military leader of the
Pilgrims. His name has not been
mentioned in Gov. Bradford's His-
tory. He took no part in the ne-

126

CAPTAIN MILES STANDISH.

CHAP. unto whom was adjoined, for counsel and advice, IX. William Bradford,' Stephen Hopkins, and Edward 1620. Tilley.

Nov.

gotiations with the Virginia Company or with the merchant adventurers. He was not one of Robinson's church before it left England; but serving in the Low Countries, in the forces sent over by Queen Elizabeth to aid the Dutch against the Spaniards, he fell in, as Winslow did, with Robinson and his congregation, liked them and their principles, and though not a nember of their church, either voluntarily, or at their request, embarked with them for America. Morton, p. 262, says that he was "a gentleman, born in Lancashire, and was heir apparent unto a great estate of lands and livings, surreptitiously detained from him, his great grandfather being a second or younger brother from the house of Standish." This is not improbable. There are at this time in England two ancient families of the name, one of Standish Hall, and the other of Duxbury Park, both in Lancashire, who trace their descent from a common ancestor, Ralph de Standish, living in 1221. There seems always to have been a military spirit in the family. Froissart, relating in his Chronicles the memorable meeting between Richard II. and Wat Tyler, says that after the rebel was struck from his horse by William Walworth, "then a squyer of the kynges alyted, called Jolin Standysshe, and he drewe out his sworde, and put into Wat Tyler's belye, and so he dyed." For this act Standish was knighted. In 1415, another Sir John Standish fought at the battle of Agincourt. From his giving the name of Duxbury to the town where he settled, near Plymouth, and calling his eldest son Alexander, (a common name in the Standish family,) I have no doubt that Miles was a scion from this ancient and warlike stock, which he

did not dishonor. Whilst writing this note, I observe in the journals of the day, the death (Dec. 7, 1840, at Cadiz,) of "Frank Hall Standish, Esq. of Duxbury Hall, Lancashire."- The Plymouth soldier was a man of small stature, but of such an active and daring spirit that he spread terror through all the Indian tribes from Massachusetts Bay to Martha's Vineyard, and from Cape Cod harbour to Narraganset. In the autumn of 1695 he went to England, as an agent of the colony, and returned in the spring of 1626. In 1630 he removed to Duxbury, which was undoubtedly so called after the family seat of his ancestors. He had six children, and four sons, Alexander, Miles, Josiah, and Charles, survived him, whose numerous descendants are to be found in several towns in Plymouth county, in Connecticut, and in the State of New York. He lived and died at the foot of Captain's Hill, in Duxbury, so called after him, a monumental landmark that will hand his name down to the latest times. He was an assistant in 1633, and was repeatedly reëlected to this office. He died in 1656, but his age is unknown. Smith, in his Hist. of N. Jersey, p. 18, commits a singular error in saying that "about the year 1620 the Plymouth Company sent a fresh recruit from England under the command of Capt. Standish." See Belknap Am. Biog. ii. 310; Mass. Hist. Coll. xviii. 121, xx. 58 —61; Hutchinson's Mass. ii. 461; Mitchell's Hist. of Bridgewater, p. 307; Burke's Hist. of the Commoners of Great Britain, ii. 64, and iv. 642.

'Winslow not being one of the party, I consider Bradford the sole author of this part of the Journal.

2

Stephen Hopkins, whose name stands the 14th in order among the signers of the Compact, with the

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