its Indian-like brownness. Many of them wore a red woollen cap, turned up with black, which gave them quite a Moorish air. There was something peculiarly novel also in the appearance of their dwellings, their fronts exhibiting every variety of color. Some were white, others yellow, or red; several combined a variety of hues, or perhaps displayed a showy, if not an elegant fresco on the front. Nature has done sufficient for these people. It appears to have furnished every resource for their happiness. But it has pushed its expedients against a nature too perverse for it, and has made the fact clearer, that man, though created with the highest susceptibilities for enjoyment, and surrounded with all the external comforts necessary to its completion, may be, and often is, miserable. The peasants are here apt without intelligence, superstitious without religion, indulging in the bitterest enmities, and the most debasing licentiousness. Before arriving at Genoa, the road cuts through three fine arches in the solid rock. As you approach the city the effect of the scenery is very fine. A straight line of coast, with projecting promontories, not unfrequently the site of villages, spreads along its green and cultivated hills, strongly contrasted with the expanse of the Mediterranean, which opens out to the horizon. At the extremity of the view, the curve of its panoramic bay, terminating with its bold fortifications and tapering lighthouses, stands Genoa. As we approached it, the shades of night gathered over it, and its lights glimmered dimly through the hazy air. Our entrance into the city led through streets of the most ample magnitude, lined on either side with splendid palaces. There is something very pleasing and dazzling to me, in rushing so through the streets of an unknown city. The eye has just time to catch the dimensions of the grandest and gayest objects, while those which are less striking are unseen. One observes a noble palace; for a moment he is in front of its fine portico; the spacious stairway, with its columns and statues and chasseurs, has hardly struck upon his eye, before he comes upon others as splendid, from which he passes as hastily. The theatre with its palace-like front, and columns of white marble, excited our admiration exceedingly, as we were whirled by it. In a few moments we were in the midst of a crowd of carriages and porters of the grand piazza. Of porters no one will stand in need, except to get rid of them; for a dozen at least, fastened upon our baggage when we descended at the hotel of the "Quatre Nations." Indeed, we had no little difficulty to get it all into the hands of an individual of their number, and this being effected, we succeeded in forcing our way through the veturinos, who surrounded us with reiterated offers of "Voiture for Rome, Pisa, Milan, Turin," &c. &c. CHAPTER XX. Streets Palaces The Theatre Palazzo Durazzo Genoa The University - The Church Annunziata - Santa Maria - Leaves Turin for Chambery, on his Return to France - Passage of Mount CenisLeaves Chambery, and arrives at Pont de Beauvoisin, the French Frontier-house- Leaves Lyons for Chalons-River Saone - Macon -Leaves for Paris-The Siene - Havre-Leaves for England. Thursday, Nov. 4. Arrived in Genoa in the evening. The view of the harbor by night was very striking. The chief part of the shipping was collected in one place, which bristled with a forest of slender masts. Beneath the high wall, under our window, a crowd of boats were moored, while here and there a vessel lay along the shore, or at anchor in the harbor. At a distance, between the jutting pier which protected the harbor from the violence of the sea, and the fort which stood on the other side to guard it from naval foes, a light ship with its tapering masts, and lines of cannon, was riding at anchor. It was his majesty's port-ship. The lamps glanced out from many a window along the curving shore, spreading red lines of light over the black and glassy mirror, of which they seemed the gilded parts of its massive frame. Nov. 5. Walked to see the beautiful theatre, which we had passed the evening before. The streets had a very lively appearance. It was amusing to observe at some of the fountains which we passed, the groups of girls washing most briskly, without regard to the carriages whirling by in every direction. The street, Nuova, is one of the most elegant in the city. It would do honor to any emporium. This and another connected with it are lined with palaces. They are built of stone, marble, and stucco. Many display a severe and elegant taste. Some of their porticoes and halls are truly noble. The streets, instead of being wholly paved, like those of France, or wholly flagged like those of Florence, have a line of flagging in the middle, and generally one near the shops. The theatre deserves rather to be a palace. Six white columns, of the fluted Corinthian order, support a beautiful entablature. The portico, as well as the whole body of the theatre, is composed of a pure white marble. The colonnade, which surrounds it, is of a handsome black marble. We then went to the Palazzo Durazzo. The entrance to this splendid palace is very magnificent. You are struck by the noble entrance, and by a fine court, paved with marble, and surrounded with graceful columns. As I passed from this, up the long flight of marble steps, which seem suspended in the air, to the saloon, I was impressed with sensations which can only be excited by the grandest objects. Though the whole flight must contain upwards of sixty or seventy steps, each formed of a long slab of white marble, with an elegant balustrade, of the same imposing material, yet the whole has no other apparent support than the wall up which it winds. The halls into which we were conducted, were elegant. They were fitted up in the Italian style. Elegant curtains of blue and crimson silk, with rich borders, were suspended before the long windows. The arched ceiling was rich with gilding and frescoes, while the fine paintings, with which the apartments were hung, were set off by a rich back-ground of damask silk. Yet with all this splendor, the varnished floor of oak frame work, gave the rooms a cheerless air, and had not a domestic and comfortable look. They did not display a knowledge of the art of living; there was need of a rich carpet and rug, of tables and books, and all the conveniences of every-day wants. I must say, that the paintings were superb. I may add without hesitation, that they surpassed the national collection of some kingdoms, through which I have passed. Among these there were many by Vandyke, Rubens, Guercino, Guido, and Titian. The drawing-room is ornamented with paintings illustrative of the history of Achilles. We next visited the University. It is a noble building. The entrance is imposing. The balustrades which run down to the door, are terminated by two lions; the force of their execution is wonderful, and the effect they produce on the mind very singular. The hall of the University is elegant, and adorned with some remarkably fine statues in bronze. They came from the masterly hand of John of Bologna. magnificent productions. fine frescoes. They usually have from five to seven hundred students, and about twenty professors. The museum of natural history was neither extensive or remarkable. Those of Faith and Hope are Visited the church St Annunziata. The exterior is by no means striking; the interior is dazzlingly so. It is too gorgeous with precious marbles, paintings, and gilding. You are confused with the splendor that reigns there. The ceiling is a massive frame of gold, contain. ing fine frescoes, supported by rows of marble columns, two being set on each pedestal. The chapel is adorned with precious marble, rich altars, shining with gold and jewels; and choice paintings were lit by suspended lamps of the most elegant shapes and proportions, seeming to |