CHAPTER XVI.

Route from Paris to Brussels Brussels - Place Royal - St Gudule — King Leopold Mr Cooper Antwerp - Aix la Chapelle - Cologne Lake of the Four Cantons - Tell's Chapel

The Rhine

Boom

Lake Brieuzer-Interlacken.

LEFT Paris for Brussels the nineteenth of July.

The entire route was unbroken by the slightest undulation, but the cultivated fields, removed in some measure the monotony, by the varying shades of their grass, and grain, and herbs; but at length, even the regular recurrence of these, with the long lines of trees which skirted the road side, and the recurrence of villages, possessing the same mean, contracted, and filthy character, gave pain rather than pleasure. However, we did pass a few towns, not altogether destitute of interest. The first of these was Péronne, an old, and, even now, rather strongly fortified town, distinguished as the scene of Quentin Durward.

Friday. At seven, arrived at Mons. Here we remained about an hour, walking round the town. I saw nothing remarkable, except a very high turret, which in former ages was probably connected with some magnificent pile, but which now stood in solitary grandeur, a venerable, but mighty and imposing relic of Gothic great

ness.

This is situated in the Belgian territory, which we entered a few hours earlier at Quievrain. Here we

encountered a search, quite vexatious to some of our companions, but quite laughable to us. From our trunks and country, our object was immediately discovered. Not so with some of the others, for having passed our things over rather lightly, they pursued their investigation more systematically and rigorously, among the trinkets and dresses of some of our companions. One Jew in particular, was searched most sharply, while the lace dresses of one of our female companions fluttered most distressingly in the air. Indeed, all the secrets of false curls and rouges, were most unscrupulously brought to light, by the obedient servants of King Leopold. We had scarce passed the frontiers of Belgium, before we noticed a striking difference in the condition and appearance of the villages. It is true they were built in the same compact manner as in France, but an essential change appears in the neat white washed fronts of the brick or composition walls, the nice stone floors, and the neat door-ways.

We were

On the twentyfirst, we arrived in Brussels. much gratified at its first appearance. The neatness of its markets, its clean streets, the taste of its buildings, and the general air of modesty and sobriety which reigned over the features of its inhabitants. We proceeded to the Hotel de Flandre, Place Royal. The Place Royal is a fine square, occupied by elegant hotels, and a large and handsome church. It stands in the vicinity of the Park, which is laid out with considerable taste. The Park makes a green and delightful centre to the elegant square, where stands the palace of the King, the Prince of Orange, the Chamber of Deputies, and several other fine buildings. The palace, as well as all the houses of Brussels, are distinguished for an elegant simplicity. It was a long brick edifice, stuccoed, with a portico of eight Co

rinthian columns. On the other side of the park, directly in front of the palace, stands the Chamber of Deputies, a handsome, extensive, and palace-like looking building, one wing of which being burnt during the revolution, is still in ruins. Though Brussels possesses many elegant edifices, it does not owe its interest to their individual splendor. It is their fine combination in streets and squares, which calls forth admiration. Of course a stranger finds no little interest here in its antique square, where the Hotel de Ville rises, with niches, and pinnacles, and carvings, all stained and dark with time. This cannot fail to call up recollections of those days, when superstition with its dim and shadowy images, gave to the taste of the age a massive indistinctness of design, suited to all the other sentiments of the people, and therefore exciting but ordinary emotions. But now presenting themselves to our regard, who have lived among the sterner realities of a philosophic age, and among objects shaped by a very different taste, they seem like the visions of a revery, or a palace wrapped in mist. This feeling is much more marked in visiting St Gudule. As you approach its massive front, you are impressed by its height and strength. As you draw near, you behold the heavy, deep, and low Gothic door-way; the long lines of light and shade, formed by the turrets, which, clinging to the gray structure, climb up to its very top; you see how time has eat into the rich carvings, and gnawed the iron work over all its surface; but you see that however uncongenial with modern architecture, however scathed by time, that its giant frame will yet endure the ravages of many ages, standing firm, while all that now surrounds it, may lie prostrate, a wreck of ruins. It is imposing; yes, even on the outside; but hark! hear the wild swell of music among its high columns and arches - hark! the

distant bugle that stirring tone of a martial band. Heavy masses of troops are filing down the street. Hear the shoutings; "Vive le Roi!" Upon a splendid charger, but with simple caparison and simple dress, with his aids and staff, King Leopold approaches. It is the anniversary day of Belgian liberty. He raises his military chapeau, and bows affably to the greeting crowd. He has dismounted. And now the notes of the "Te Deum" echo through the lofty aisles and chapels. When he came out, I entered. It was indeed both a singular and imposing sight. The interior was simple and grand; the pillars high and massive; the cruciform aisles lofty; the windows deeply stained; the light dim and chaste; the altars and pictures softened by the burning tapers around the consecrated places. All these should be solemn and silent. But hark! along the long aisles, hear through every gallery and curving arch of its mighty roof, the long, unceasing, stunning roll of the martial drum, the regular tramp of armed men on the marble pavement. All, how imposing! but see the black cowls and cassocks, the crosiers, the saints and virgins! It is a church. Thus it happened that my arrival was on the most opportune occasion possible.

We next visited the Hotel de Ville. Its interior is rude, but modern taste has given splendor to some of its halls. Here are preserved some of the richest pieces of Brussels tapestry. These are about two hundred years old, but many of them preserve the richness and freshness of recent executions. They are kept in the council and marriage halls; for it appears that before the religious ceremonies of that institution take place, they are legally united here. In this building is a noble apartment, adorned with all the magnificence of gildings, chandeliers, velvets, and gold lace, where the royal balls

are held. At one end of the room was the concealed orchestra, at the other, the throne of his majesty. From this place, we rambled to the lower part of the city, where is a fine canal which communicates with the Scheldt, near Antwerp. A number of canal boats, of more depth than our own, were moored or moving upon it.

In the evening we had the pleasure of meeting Mr Cooper, the celebrated novelist, who with his wife and family had arrived in B. He politely invited us to walk up and see his lady and family, but we felt too tired, and too much out of dress. He pointed out to us his room, showing us how the house had been riddled by balls. He happened to be there a week after its revolution. His room, bed, &c. were completely cut to pieces by balls. He pointed out the house and the Cupids of which he speaks in his Heidenmaur. Indeed the whole city bears. the marks of a severe and protracted contest.

Sunday. Visited the cathedral. I was surprised at the large number of persons present, at their attentive, solemn, and devout appearance. They all had prayerbooks, translated into French. I think the combined melody of the organ, a numerous orchestra, and rich-toned voices, surpassed anything I ever heard. As from a low, faint, distant sound, it increased in compass and richness, as its delicious swell poured through the aisles, the whole building seemed instinct with life. These services were no sooner completed, and the church vacated, than a part of a regiment entered, to the beat of martial music. With heads uncovered, they halted in the aisles; while to the sound of the drums, four soldiers marched into the grand chapel, where they stood with their heavy bearskin caps, two on each side of the splendid marble altar. Presently a priest and assistant in white, entered and administered, or rather received the sacrament. During