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head of the table, and discharged pass, where “the Awe's fierce river" the agreeable functions of host, with mushes out of the loch, nothing a great sirloin to carve, and all the grander could be conceived. The other duties of hospitality to attend western sky, with some reflections to. The excellent nature of this of the invisible sun, filled up the amiable young man, who is full of wild and solemn opening cleft kindness, carried him triumphantly among the hills, and threw a gleam through the difficulties of the posi- upon the dark distant water which tion ; but the idea of having to fretted forth in that narrow channel carve and dispense, and make polite towards the sea. Looking over the inquiries—“ May I send you a little gleaming calm of the loch to that beef ?”-to the chance guests of a distant dark defile, with the piles of table d'hôte! I myself watched over mountain breaking across, and the the plate of the Glasgow lady, and ruddy western glory interposing at helped her to potatoes, and she and every inlet, was such a scene as I her spouse listened in edified silence can never forget. But I am urged to the lively conversation of our to hasten my course, and reminded little party. Dear Kate, as I have that I have already occupied my before mentioned, loves to talk, full share of the permitted space. I and our young friend's conversation might say a great deal more, but I is most improving and instructive. refrain. My friend naturally wishes But it would be unkind to let this to give her own account of what folopportunity pass without warning lowed. In conclusion, we reached the unwary against the table d'hôte Dalmally in time to stray out in the of the Inverary inn.

sweet though somewhat dampgloamAt Inverary we held a council, ing, past the peaceful manse of Glentouching our further progress, and urchy-where the minister, venerreceiving assurances, both printed ableian, was wandering in his fields, and verbal, that coaches to Dunkeld like Isaac at eventide, no doubt mewere to be met with at Dalmally, ditating his next Sunday's sermonwe started, blithe and confident, in to the bridge over the river, where a pretty waggonette, with two fam- we mused in silence upon the broad ous horses, for the banks of Loch brown noiseless stream, and finally Awe. The sun had gone hopelessly returned to the inn, to spend the into the clouds, and Ben Cruachan evening in friendly conversation--a was invisible when we reached the conversation in which my own nawistful shore at Cladich, but the tural enthusiasm and the varied loch itself opened fair before us in experience of my friend blended all the shadowless twilight glory of in a manner, I trust as delightful the holy hour. Silent as a nun was to them as to me, with the youththe lovely breadth of water, with ful fervour and eloquence of our acall its fairy bays and promontories; complished companion. How sweet and as we came opposite the distant is such friendly communion !


Yes! perfectly true ; but there right to expect good weather, in my may be too much of it, in my opin- opinion. I made up my mind from ion; especially when it is all between the first that we should have rain, two of the party, and the third is and consequently was not taken put out of the way upon the box. by surprise when it came.

At Next day was a wet day, as I Dalmally, of course, we learned that always expected. When people do the coaches had not yet begun to not start on the day they fix for run, or at least, if they had begun, starting, in spite of everything that they were to be heard of at Tyndrum can be said to them, though it turns or Crianlarich, or some hideous vilout a charming day, they have no lage or other, where nobody could


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speak English ; and the only expe- Mrs —-:-“ Arabella, dear, if dient was to drive in a dog-cart to you have a moment's time to spare, that scene of certainty. But before just listen. It was a lovely day on going there we must needs start in Monday, and they had not a drop the same conveyance on a voyage to of rain, the man says.” Loch Awe, to see, in mist and rain, The first answer I heard was a what we had seen the night before peal of laughter; then, in a quiverin clear but not brilliant twilight. ing voice, Arabella spokeArabella, with that assumption of “I have no doubt it will clear up sprightliness which is so disgusting to-day, still. You can't think what in a person come to her time of life a pretty gleam comes from your wet (she affects to be two years younger umbrella, dear. It must be from than I am, but I am not sure, if the the sun, you know. The sun must parish registers could be got at, whe- be somewhere about, I am ther the tables might not be turned vinced. And look yonder, what a in that respect)-Arabella jumped strange light on the hills !" into the back seat of the vehicle, Urd- :-“ Strange darkness, that I might have, as she said, the too. Look at that hollow there; best seat. Because she is unmar- how the gloom creeps and gathers! ried, she thinks herself entitled to Will you have the glass, Mrs S-? take all the airs of youth. Prepos- Famous atmosphere for the hills, terous notion ! but it makes her very you know—quite Highland weather. absurd, poor thing, though she can- Look here, exactly what Christopher not see it. Young Mr A— helped describes—a vast mysterious holme into the front with the greatest low.'. The mist is lifting-look! attention, quite unconscious of her We shan't see Ben Cruachan, but trick, and joined her himself, as of only wait till the sun breaks out.” course she had intended all the

Mrs S—_.-“ Yes. Only wait. time, in the back seat of the gig. Off Next week, perhaps; and we can we went, facing the blast; and if stay at Dalmally, and have a few any one should be disposed to envy lessons in the language. Whereas the front seat, let them imagine me if we had started on Monday, as I seated beside a damp driver, with always intendedthe rain full in my face, and Ara- Bliss Arabella.—“Dear MrA-, bella and young A- chatting only look here.

How fine those behind me with the most intoler- mists are, floating and dipping like able levity, never so much as look- veils—and that hollow, how grand ! ing at the landscape, as far as I could Hark! it creeps. To say that is

I said nothing; in spite of all only negative, you know—want of Arabella's remarks about my con- light—is absurd. It is positive darkversation with the coachman the ness raying out of the hill-and day before, and her sentimental that eldritch gleam yonder. Don't assumptions, I am not the woman tell me it is not out of the heart of to turn upon my friend. So I the mountain. There is some silcalmly put up my umbrella, and very pool, or something invisible, looked at the view.

When we

that sheds that reflection. It is reached Kilchurn, I could hear the fairy light." ridiculous old thing repeating the Mrs S-.-"Stuff! I am getballad about it, as if she had been ting very wet about the feet, and a young girl. I confess it was ag- this man tells me there is no such gravating; as for me, I had the thing as a coach, whatever we do. driver to talk to; and when I found The landscape is very fine, but I out from him that Monday had been don't believe you are looking at it a beautiful day, and that it was all in the least." her fault in not starting at the pro- This produced another foolish per time, I really could not restrain burst of laughter. I own I was my indignation.

entirely disgusted with Arabella

Three Days in the Ilighlands.

263 talk of levity, indeed! When we enter into the hilarity of the party, returned to the inn, of course it and to make one aware that he apbecame perfectly evident that there preciated the gaiety of the two in was no hope of any coach. I did the back seat. On me it fell, not not waste any time in words. I saw only to bear the blast of rain, but by this time that we were doomed, to maintain a dignified deportment, and would have to go on in dog-carts and neutralise the folly of my two to-heaven knows where. I rushed companions. Of course it was all into the kitchen, which was the very natural and proper on the part only place where there was a fire, of young A--, who amused himand took my measures immediately. self, as was to be expected; but that After some trouble I succeeded in Arabella, a woman of some sense, getting a nice wincey petticoat from should be so ridiculous as to give the landlady, which I put on over any young man such a chance of my gown-an excellent plan, which laughing at her, is more than I can I recommend to any lady travelling understand, take it how you will. in the Highlands; and with my Ridiculous old thing! cloak covering my shoulders, re- And, of course, as I have said signed myself to my fate. Of course I already, there was no coach at Tynscorned, after having been put upon drum. I knew it perfectly. Dethe box, to accept any other place; parting from the day you intend to but, ascending to my perch, made start, and altering the route that myself as comfortable as was prac- you have taken pains to mark out, ticable under the circumstances. what can you expect in a journey? The two in the seat behind had The only thing was to go on in dogsome rugs, and young A—, who, carts :—and in dog-carts we went between ourselves, is a great flirt, on accordingly, with the rain pourand, like some girls I know of, ing down steadily, the hills opening spares neither old nor young, ar- up quite wonderful and grand, and ranged them round Arabella, who, the two in the back seat taking not poor old creature, gave herself the a bit of notice, but chattering about most ridiculous languishing airs, every subject under the skies with enough to send any one into fits of an utter indifference to the view, laughter. In this style we set off and the rain, and me. I really own on one of the most beautiful roads I felt ashamed of them. To hear I ever travelled. I can say so with an elderly woman maundering on in confidence, as my prospect and en- such a fashion is quite insufferable, joyment of it were quite undis- in my opinion. Nobody likes a turbed. When I called the atten- little pleasant conversation better tion of the people behind to the than I do ; but there are times and beautiful mountains all bedropped places for everything. In the mean and enveloped in white floating time, I enjoyed the scenery particumists, which every breath of wind larly. I had full advantage of it : moved and lifted, I was replied to there was nothing to break the blast with ridiculous jokes and laughter. which beat upon me, nobody to There never was anything more ab- interrupt my meditations. I can't surd. The harder it rained, and say that I ever enjoyed such an unthe grander the prospect became, interrupted view of any landscape ; the more they talked and giggled. and I can assure you that it is quite When I turned to point out the a mistake to be so particular about beautiful Highland ħills to them, good weather when you go to the they were lost in discussions about Highlands. Through that rain and Italy. Indeed I don't know what mist the hills looked perfectly they did not talk of, sheltered as they charming. Through Glenurchy and were from the blast by my own un- Glen Dochart they kept rising and fortunate figure and that of the opening in continued beauty; and driver, who was quite disposed to while the only response I could get VOL. XC.NO. DL.



from the back seat was the foolish minded nonsense! I really could answer that it was no doubt very scarcely contain myself when I fine if they could see it, I did see realised how it was. it, and found it wonderful. It is At length we came down upon therefore my advice to tourists : If Loch Tay, through a lovely wooded the day is å wet day, never mind road, which I remember years ago. -get something to cover you over I had seen Loch Tay, and was (and for a lady, in my opinion, twenty times more interested in it nothing is better than a good skirt), for my companions' sake than for and go straight on, and keep your my own. The lights and clouds eyes open. But to lose a day out which had been so favourable for of mere nonsense, you know, after the hills, were not so suitable, I am you have quite settled upon your obliged to confess, for that loch, journey, and to be seduced into which is neither like Loch Awe nor abandoning an old and well-con- Loch Lomond, nor any other loch sidered route for a new and hastily- but itself, all heavenly and serene seized one, with coaches uncertain, as it is, with Taymouth sitting and dog-carts unsatisfactory; and splendid at its head. It ceased to to feel all the time a regret for that rain as we came along those wooded lost day, which it is quite impos- banks, which I remember so dissible to forget, as if you were for ever tinctly, and which I was only anhunting it, and could never reach xious to point out to the others. I it, is the greatest annoyance imagin- could hear that poor dear Arabella able. Any feeling person will un- was talking deep sentiment by this derstand my sentiments, as I went time, from which I perceived that driving over the country with no- the current was getting exhaustthing between me and the blast, ed ; and she actually did condeand with two people behind me scend to pay some attention as talking and enjoying themselves, we went on, the rain having ceased actually without a single thought of at last. Loch Tay, ho ver, wants the landscape which they had come sunshine. It lay gleaming all dark all this way to see ; and dear, dear before me, with a look (though I am

a me, to think of that poor old Ara- not given to sentiment), a visible bella! Fancy her, poor thing, imagin- look, of something having gone out ing herself young again, and dream- of it since those days when I saw it ing about communion of souls ! first. Ah me! I daresay not only Privately, on the front seat, I was myself upon the box, with my um. in agonies of silent laughter ; but brella up, steadfastly looking at the my friendly feelings, you know, view, but poor dear Arabella with eventually gained the upper hand. all her little follies, and even that I could bear to laugh at her myself, excellent young A- - himself, who but not to see other people laugh at might be our son, as far as age goes, her. And really, after all, though had our own thoughts going trudgshe is foolish, and adopts little ing on with us, all the same, every youthful airs, and behaves ridicu- step of the way. I never heard that lous enough sometimes, at the bot- anybody ever got free of those comtom she is a dear friend of mine, panions; and when I looked at that and a good old soul! The aggra- loch, many a scene unseen to my vating circumstance of all, however, friends came up before me. It was was the loss of that Monday. I the same as ever, long and tranquil made a point of asking all the and shining, with two great banks people at the inns, and all the dri- all rich with wood projecting out vers, what sort of a day it was, and into the water, like a kind of grand the answer was invariable, A lovely portal to the basin on which Tayday! and we had actually turned mouth is planted ; but something

; back and sacrificed it for no reason had gone out of it since last I saw in this world but Arabella's weak- it-out of it or out of my eyes


something never to return any could not tell what I meant. She more.

went into an elderly flutter and I hope nobody will suppose I am palpitation, and appealed to young sentimentally minded—quite the re- A-- whether she had been doing verse is the case. I resolved to take anything wrong. Actually the dear the management of the whole mat- old creature believed she had been ter into my own hands after this, flirting, and did not know what to and quite to exclude Arabella from say for herself. Was there ever anyhaving anything to do with it. In thing more absurd ? If I had been this spirit I got down at the pretty silent all day long, I assure you I new inn at Kenmore, got the most had the laugh on my side now. And charming rooms, a famous fire and so ended the day we spent in dogtea, without consulting anybody. carts, driving through the rain from Arabella came in looking a little Loch Awe to Loch Tay. I am ashamed of herself, and young A- merciful. I let Arabella off. I said much amused, as was natural. Then no more about it; but I must say began a comical scene. I set their it was not for nothing that I spent enormities before them, as was pro- that day in silence with my umbrella per; and Arabella, poor old soul ! up, seeing more hills and mists than with all the consciousness of guilt, I ever saw in my life, and put out began to justify herself. She de- of the way by my companions, unclared she had seen everything all der pretence of giving me the best along the way; she protested she seat, upon the driving-box.

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After the narratives of my fair who would grudge the trouble which friends, I need not enter into any gave those good creatures their inexplanation of the little difficulties nocent holiday. I don't mean to and hitches of the journey. The say I should be very ready to ungood old ladies enjoyed it, I don't dertake it again; but I don't regret doubt, in spite of all, and were the three days. as good friends as ever, like a pair And what a famous place Tay. of old doves, the next morning, mouth is, when one gets a little when the missing sun presented sunshine to see it by! A beautiful himself, and we were at length able loch in front, quite by itself, and to set out with comfort on foot to unlike all the other lochs ; famous see the beautiful grounds of Tay- wood, unlimited shooting, and a mouth. I got along with them fa- princely size and style of place almously, I am glad to say, and was together. I should not mind going able, with a little trouble, to make down there on the 12th, or any myself agreeable in a way flattering period presently thereafter, at the to a fellow's self-regard who has chieftain's pleasure-nor, indeed, had his disappointments in the ser- of bestowing my leisure upon him, vice of woman, like most other peo- whenever he thinks fit to honour ple. The greatest bore in it all was me with an invitation. I don't when one happened to meet an ac- know a better specimen of comquaintance, and was led to mention, posed and sober grandeur; and with in a cursory way, that one was in all those beautiful glades and trees charge of a party of ladies, never about-the trout in the Tay and thinking that the venerable com- the deer on the hill—a man might panions of one's voyage were about manage to be a Marquess without to sally forth, and dissipate at a feeling inevitably doomed to bore blow that agreeable illusion. But himself to death. I am not sure, indeed a man must be more hard- however, that I don't prefer the hearted than I can boast of being, Duke of Atholl's quiet cottage es


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