And so our Lady's chapel in the cathedral of Upsala is turned into "the tomb of Gustaf Vasa!"

The treasures of the sacristy are kept in the tower. They are a rich and most interesting store. The sacred vessels, of gold and silver, enriched with precious stones, are amazingly beautiful. The shrine of the good King of Sweden, St. Eric, is still preserved here; and here, also, are the bloody garments of the man, Nils Sture, whom his successor of that name, the unhappy Eric XIV., murdered with his own hand, and with the dagger which had been just tendered to him in proof of trust and fealty.

The modern towers and balls of this cathedral are so frightful as to put one out of humour before coming into it.

The library is the greatest attraction, I think, at Upsala. The manuscripts amount to 5,000; one of them is worth a visit here, at least from Stockholm; the Codex Argenteus, is a transcript of the Gospels of the fifth century, or perhaps the earlier part of the sixth, and was not done by those, it is to be supposed, who did not esteem them; they are written in letters of silver, on vellum of a purple or deep lilac colour; and in the Gothic, not the Latin language.

The house of Linneus still exists in Upsala, but not one of the persons who live in its vicinity could show it to us, or at all understand who we meant by that person. The ignorance would be natural if we had not used his Swedish, and not his Latin name; we asked, often vainly, for the house of Linné, but found it at last -a very simple one with a small court before it, in which a little grass and one or two poor trees were growing. It was inhabited by an artist. The great botanist is buried in the cathedral.

One

Gamle Upsala, or Old Upsala, is a much more interesting spot to me than its modern successor. It is now a poor village, lying among great green mounds, which are supposed to be each an âttehög or tomb of the old pagan kings and deities. of them has been excavated. I penetrated into it, and the professor who brought me there told me I saw an urn within the railing, which is put up to defend the tomb, supposed to be, I think, that of Odin; but I found the sunshine on the top of it pleasanter.

The old church is a curious place; some contend that a part of it is the remains of the pagan temple. Within I saw the debris of three religions;—of the pagan, in a hideous wooden figure,

called a Statue of Odin,-and in what our guide called a sacrificial chest; of the Roman Catholic, in a curious carved altar-piece, thrown aside together with the old wooden figure; and of the Protestant,-in the general aspect of the forlornlooking place.

The man who had driven me there from the hotel asked me if I could tell him whether any record of the age of the church was to be found out in books, for he thought that had never been written down; adding, that his belief was, that that church had stood there ever since the flood. He seemed to think the flood had left it there.

The Archbishop of Upsala is the Primate of all Sweden. His present Majesty, Oscar I., studied at this university, being lodged with the Archbishop. The young princes, his sons, have also been students here. Almost all men in this country have been students either here or at the other Swedish University-that of Lund; more than one in seven hundred of the entire male population, is the estimate. No one can enter any of what, among ourselves, are called the learned professions, without a University education. There are, strictly speaking, no barristers in Sweden; but all lawyers, doctors, priests, must

graduate here or at Lund, and the number of the two first orders is wonderful.

And so we went back from Upsala, and my vision was gone; and I recollected that there can be no very old towns in Sweden, because wooden houses cannot live so very long, and frequently they do not die a natural death. Many towns, Upsala among them, are nearly destroyed by fire, and so constantly renovated that they always look

new.

And the day was fine and bright, and we stopped at Skokloster, and saw more armour than I think I ever saw together; and saw the sitting-room floors covered with fine old tapestry, used as carpets, for carpeting is dear and scarce in Sweden, being almost entirely imported. And we saw two portraits of the celebrated lady of that old family, the lovely Ebba Brahe, the beloved of King Gustavus Adolphus, whom his mother prevented him from marrying. And I stood before the portrait of Ebba Brahe in her youth, and gazed upon her beauty as if those soft, loving eyes were speaking to my heart. And the groom who acted as our cicerone, pointed to an old, ugly, wrinkled face, and I thought he meant saucily to

show me what a contrast two women might present; but he said, "That is the same."

"What?" I said.

"That is Ebba Brahe," he answered, nodding his head to the lovely portrait; "and that also is Ebba Brahe," he added, nodding to the ugly old

woman.

.

And we saw such a library as few Swedish houses contain; I think of 18,000 volumes. It makes one feel curious to ascertain how many of them have been read. And we strolled among the pleasant grounds, and went beyond them, and saw one miserable specimen of a better class of farm-houses in Sweden; it belonged to some of the men employed on the estate; with a nice well-furnished parlour, but nothing else fit to be seen, which is not often the case in Sweden. And, in another poor hut, we found an industrious old grandfather working at watchmaking and watch mending such huge, old-fashioned, kettle watches, quite in character with himself! I sat some time to rest at their hearth, and gave a grandson a little coin at parting, which occasioned a look of surprise and an expression of thanks. Part of the Inspector's house here, where I am lodged, must have belonged to the original Klostor,